以海浪波要素表示的外频谱形式

孙孕等（１９９４）提出了外频谱的概念,并推导出外频谱的理论形式,但其控制参量是由内频谱导出的,不便于实际应用,通过对实测海浪数据的分析,得到了控制外频谱的３个和内频谱有关的参量与波浪要素之间的关系,进而将外频谱表示以有效波高和有效波周期作为控制参量的形式,应用实测资料将本文得到的外频谱形式与理论外频谱进行了比较,发现二者符合良好。     

Relationship between the observed and weakly-turbulent spectra of surface gravity waves

The theory for weakly-turbulent surface gravity waves normally identifies some auxiliary function (weakly-turbulent spectrum) with the actual (observed) wave spectrum. In this paper, a general formula for the relationship between weakly-turbulent spectra and observed spectra is derived, and a numerical calculation is provided to show the difference between them. In particular, violation of the exponential nature and angular distribution of weakly-turbulent spectra is noted, along with the occurrence of secondary peaks. Quantitatively, the weakly-turbulent spectra differ insignificantly from the observed spectra.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Modification of SAR spectra associated with surface wind fields in the sea off the Kii Peninsula: A case study

Using surface wave parameters and a high-resolution surface wind field derived from Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image mode data, we have investigated the spatial modification of SAR spectra. We found a surface wind front, formed by sheltering effect of the Kii Mountains, separating high and low wind-speed regions in a sea area of an European Remote-Sensing Satellite (ERS) SAR image off the Kii Peninsula. A swell system propagating westward dominates in the whole sea area covered by the SAR image. The wavelength retrieved from the SAR spectra in the sheltered (non-sheltered) region is longer (shorter). Since the distributions of surface wave parameters and surface wind speed are so well correlated, it can be considered that the SAR spectra are modified differently by the sheltered/non-sheltered surface winds. In order to examine the phenomena observed on the SAR image we have estimated the wind-wave SAR spectrum using the SAR surface winds, a wind-wave spectrum model and a SAR wave imaging model. We assume that the SAR spectrum related to the swell is homogeneous in the area imaged by SAR, and that the SAR spectrum of the wind-wave components causes the observed SAR spectra modification. Differences between the observed SAR spectra and the estimated SAR spectra in the sheltered and non-sheltered regions agree well with each other. In the present case, it can be concluded that the observed SAR spectra can be regarded as a linear combination of the wind-wave SAR spectra and the swell SAR spectra.     

Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum

The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit     

论运动坐标系中的海浪谱

基于Galieo变换，导出了运动坐标系与静止坐标系中海浪谱间的关系。由于海浪是频散的，两者间的关系是频率相关的。运动坐标系中的海浪频谱是与静止坐标系中的海浪方向谱相联系的。以文氏谱作为静止坐标系中的海浪频谱，给出了不同速度下运动坐标系中的海浪频谱。     

海浪同化预报模型理论基础

将共轭变分同化方法应用于 LAGFD- WAM海浪数值模式 ,导出了海浪谱能量平衡方程的共轭方程以及风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用的相应共轭源函数 ,建立了海浪同化模型 ,数值计算仍采用特征线嵌入计算格式 ,为合成孔径雷达波谱反演资料和卫星高度计有效波高资料同化奠定理论基础     

均匀介质n维随机波动的空间结构

研究了均匀介质中n维随机波动的空间结构.导出了外观振幅、波数和相位的联合分布,据此分布,所有与空间有关的波要素的统计分布皆可导出.定义了外观波数谱并得到了其平衡区指数的上界为一(n+2).二维时,海浪外观波数谱平衡区指数的上界与Phillips通过动力学分析导出的Fourier波数谱平衡区指数完全一样.     

Te(IV)对螺旋藻胁迫作用的光谱学研究

用光谱法研究了 Te(IV)对螺旋藻(Spirulina maxima)的胁迫作用.各实验组添加 Te(IV)的时间均在第5~7天,累积添加质量浓度为从450~650 mg/L.结果表明,各 Te(IV)胁迫实验组中活藻体悬浮液的吸收光谱特征峰强度均不同程度地下降.而在440、580 nm 激发所得的荧光发射光谱峰位置不变,峰强度下降.但干粉的荧光光谱与活藻体悬浮液有明显不同,干粉中的藻胆体的能量传递过程受阻.各试验组干藻粉的红外光谱无明显差异     

Numerical modelling of flux spectra for the case of angular anisotropy

On the basis of numerical solution of a kinetic equation governing non-linear wave energy redistribution over the spectrum from sourceG to sinkD, it has been found that spectra of constant flux occur in the case of anisotropic distribution of the source (or sink) with respect to angle. It has been shown that with sourceG(ω) localized in the upper part of the frequency band, as compared with the sink localization area,D(ω), a flux spectrum that is anisotropic with respect to angle is realized. WithG(ω) andD(ω) being inversely located, the stabilized flux spectrum is essentially anisotropic with respect to angle. Unidimensional stabilized spectraS(ω), averaged by angle, then have power functions similar to those of the isotropic case of source/sink distribution studied by Zakharov in 1996. Spectral characteristics have been obtained and the calculated results interpreted. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

A numerical analysis of the three-dimensional rayleigh-benard convection spectra

The problem of the incompressible liquid convection between two horizontal planes heated on the underside is considered in the three-dimensional statement. The horizontal boundaries are assumed to be free of tangential stresses and isothermal. The calculated temporal spectrum of the temperature pulsations at the convection cell center at a supercriticality of 410 agrees well with the experimental measurement result. The Bolgiano-Obukhov (BO), k ^−11/5, k ⁻³, and k ⁻⁵, were obtain for the velocity pulsations. The Kolmogorov spectra k ^−5/3 and k ^−2.4 were obtained for the temperature pulsations. The presence of clearly identified spectra in the convective flow under study allows this process to be characterized as developed turbulence.     

A proposed directional function and wind-wave directional spectrum

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Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan

This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f⁻⁴, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs.     

Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 2. Characteristics,comparison and verification of spectrum

The dependence of the angular spreading on frequency and wind-wave growth status is discussed in great detail for the proposed spectrum. The calculated angular spreading agrees with the measurements of Donelanet al. but is slightly broader. Explanation is given to the appearance of the narrowest spreading at a frequency slightly smaller than that of the wind-wave frequency spectrum peak as found by these authors. There is also basic agreement between the calculated spreading and the formulas of Mitsuyasuet al. and Hasselmannet al. for the specific wind-wave status on which these empirical formulas are based, though the former is narrower. The wind-wave frequency spectrum obtained by integrating the proposed directional spectrum with respect to direction agrees with the JONSWAP spectrum and that derived by the authors previously. The proposed spectrum is preliminarily verified with field data obtained by optical method.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

A representation for the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves

This paper proposes the following generalized representation for a wind-wave frequency spectrum:

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where E = ∫S(f)df is the variance of the surface displacement; f_m is the frequency of the spectral peak; and C_i's, i = 1,2,3, are dimensionless parameters that can be determined from the internal spectral parameters of a given spectrum.When applied to 234 sets of wave spectra recorded in the Great Lakes, this representation has been realistic, accurate, and capable of representing widely varied wave processes. The C_i's are clearly related to wave growth processes; they are large during early growth, decrease as waves grow, and reach approximate equilibrium when waves are fully developed.     

Exact distributions for apparent waves in irregular seas

We discuss the long-run distributions of several characteristics for the apparent waves in a Gaussian sea. Three types of one-dimensional wave records are considered: 1) the seaway in time at a fixed position; 2) the instantaneous profile along a horizontal line; 3) the encountered seaway. Exact integral forms of the joint long run distributions are derived for the apparent periods, lengths, and heights. Results of numerical approximations of these distributions are presented in examples. For the computations we considered, as the input spectra, empirical estimates of the frequency spectra as well as JONSWAP type spectra. Effective algorithms are discussed and utilized in the form of a comprehensive computer package of numerical routines.     

New theoretical aspects of statistical properties of narrow-banded random waves

By using a new concept of the discrete amplitude, we examine the statistical properties of narrow-banded random waves. The main results are as follows: (1) the wave height distribution follows the Rayleigh distribution in the case of an infinitely narrow-banded spectrum in the strict sense; (2) the discrete amplitudes, different from the crest heights, are distributed according to the Rayleigh distribution for arbitrary bandwidth spectra; (3) the statistical distribution of the gap length between the discrete amplitude and the crest is examined and derived theoretically. The derived distribution agrees well with the result of numerical simulations; (4) taking into account the gap length distribution, the probability density function of crest heights is derived, which deviates from the Rayleigh distribution.     

On the Spectrum Width of Wind Waves

Based on the universal expression of wind wave spectra, four commonly used definitions of the spectrum width are re-examined. The results show that the non-dimensional spectrum width can measure the width of non-dimensional spectra hut it does not reflect the developing state of the spectra. The dimensional spectrum width expresses the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum in (he process of wind wave growth. Tests show that the spectrum width presented by Wen et al. can objectively measure the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum, reflect the state of wind wave growth, and provides a better result for practical application. The rules for definition of the spectrum width are discussed.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

Thermal structures in the Kuroshio extension measured with a towed thermistor chain

Two-dimensional temperature data observed by use of a 275 meter towed thermistor chain deployed from an oceanographic research vessel USS MARYSVILLE, which cruised with a speed of 6.2 knots in July 1966 across the Kuroshio Extension in the North Pacific, are investigated. Two-dimensional variations of the distribution of the isotherms along the ship's track are analyzed with special reference to their slope, wavelength and wave height. The results show that the slope and wave height of isotherms have a tendency to increase as the temperature decreases. Even if the contribution of wave heights smaller than 1.5 m is neglected, i.e., contribution of large scale slope with a horizontal scale of 5–30 km is subtracted, this tendency is still detected. In contrast to this, the wavelength evaluated by the crest to crest method has no dependency on the temperature. Power spectrum of the isotherm depth is proportional tok ^–1.87 for 13°C andk ^–2.13 for 27°C, wherek is the wave number. It is shown that the spectra of warmer isotherms are relatively well approximated by –2 power law (Garrett and Munk spectrum) for internal waves rather than the –5/3 power law (Kolmogorov spectrum) for three dimensional isotropic turbulence.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum

In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived oy (I) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum m0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R =ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum S(ω) = ω0S(ω)/m0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R = 1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=S(1).