Automated mapping of the intertidal beach bathymetry from video images

This paper presents a fully automated procedure to derive the intertidal beach bathymetry on a daily basis from video images of low-sloping beaches that are characterised by the intermittent emergence of intertidal bars. Bathymetry data are obtained by automated and repeated mapping of shorelines from video time exposure images for different (tidal) water levels (Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Turner, I.L., Dronkers, T.D.T., Caljouw, M., Nipius, L., 2003. A video-based technique for mapping intertidal beach bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 49, 275–289; Plant, N.G. and Holman, R.A., 1997. Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images. Marine Geology 140, 1–24.). The developed procedure handles intelligent selection of a shoreline search area and unsupervised quality control of the obtained bathymetry data. The automatically retrieved beach bathymetries compare very well to bathymetries derived from the original manual mapping procedure and to ground truth data points (DGPS).     

长乐国际机场附近沙滩潮间带的生态

本文研究了福建长乐国际机场附近漳港沙滩潮间带的生态。结果表明，该区生物６０种。其中，多毛类动物１９种，软体动物２４种，甲壳动物１１种，棘皮动物２种，其他动物４种；种类性质以热带，亚热带种占优势。平均生物量４．３４ｇ／ｍ＾２，平均栖息密度１５个／ｍ＾２。数量以中潮区较大。群落结构不大稳定，初步认为与沙滩特殊生境有关。     

A coupled-mode technique for the transformation of ship-generated waves over variable bathymetry regions

In the present work, a coupled-mode technique is applied to the transformation of ship's waves over variable bathymetry regions, characterised by parallel depth-contours, without any mild-slope assumption. This method can be used, in conjunction with ship's near-field wave data in deep water or in constant-depth, as obtained by the application of modern (linearised or non-linear) ship computational fluid dynamic (CFD) codes, or experimental measurements, to support the study of wave wash generated by fast ships and its effects on the nearshore/coastal environment.

Under the assumption that the ship's track is straight and parallel to the depth-contours, and relatively far from the bottom irregularity, the problem of propagation–refraction–diffraction of ship-generated waves in a coastal environment is efficiently treated in the frequency domain, by applying the consistent coupled-mode model developed by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [J. Fluid Mech. 1999;389] to the calculation of the transfer function enabling the pointwise transformation of ship-wave spectra over the variable bathymetry region.

Numerical results are presented for simplified ship-wave systems, obtained by the superposition of source–sink Havelock singularities simulating the basic features of the ship's wave pattern. The spatial evolution of the ship-wave system is examined over a smooth but steep shoal, resembling coastal environments, both in the subcritical and in the supercritical case. Since any ship free-wave system, either in deep water or in finite depth, can be adequately modelled by wavecut analysis and suitable distribution of Havelock singularities e.g. as presented by Scrags [21st Int. Conf. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng., OMAE2002, Oslo, Norway, June 2002], the present method, in conjunction with ship CFD codes, supports the prediction of ship wash and its impact on coastal areas, including the effects of steep sloping-bed parts.     

A two-point method for estimating wave reflection over a sloping beach

This work presents a frequency-domain method for estimating incident and reflected waves when normally incident waves’ propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flume is considered. Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated using wave heights measured at two fixed wave gauges with a distance. The present model demonstrates a high capacity of estimating reflection and shoaling coefficients from synthetic wave-amplitude data. Sensitivity tests for the present model due to measurement errors of wave amplitudes and distance of two probes can more accurately predict the reflection coefficients. The measurement error of wave amplitude affects more significantly than measurement error of distance of two probes on calculating reflection coefficient of waves over a sloping bed.     

A coupled-mode model for the refraction–diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry

A consistent coupled-mode model recently developed by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [1], is generalized in 2+1 dimensions and applied to the diffraction of small-amplitude water waves from localized three-dimensional scatterers lying over a parallel-contour bathymetry. The wave field is decomposed into an incident field, carrying out the effects of the background bathymetry, and a diffraction field, with forcing restricted on the surface of the localized scatterer(s). The vertical distribution of the wave potential is represented by a uniformly convergent local-mode series containing, except of the ususal propagating and evanescent modes, an additional mode, accounting for the sloping bottom boundary condition. By applying a variational principle, the problem is reduced to a coupled-mode system of differential equations in the horizontal space. To treat the unbounded domain, the Berenger perfectly matched layer model is optimized and used as an absorbing boundary condition. Computed results are compared with other simpler models and verified against experimental data. The inclusion of the sloping-bottom mode in the representation substantially accelerates its convergence, and thus, a few modes are enough to obtain accurately the wave potential and velocity up to and including the boundaries, even in steep bathymetry regions. The present method provides high-quality information concerning the pressure and the tangential velocity at the bottom, useful for the study of oscillating bottom boundary layer, sea-bed movement and sediment transport studies.     

A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

Static bay beach concept for scientists and engineers: A review

Headland-bay beach (HBB) is one of the most prominent physiographic features on the oceanic margin of many countries in the world. Under the influence of a predominant swell, its curved periphery in natural environment may reach static equilibrium and remains stable without sediment supply from updrift and/or a riverain source within its own embayment. Coastal scientists and engineers have attempted to develop mathematical expressions to quantify this ideal bay shape since the 1940s. As the scenario with depleting sediment supply has become a common reality on many parts of the world coastline in more recent time, some coastal engineers have advocated a rational approach to mimicking the static bay shape found in nature in order to mitigate beach erosion as well as for coastal management. Nowadays, many useful applications have emerged since the publication of the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) developed for static equilibrium planform (SEP) in late 1980s. The advance in modern computer technologies and international collaboration has further facilitated the exchange of knowledge and applications of this static bay beach concept (SBBC).     

A numerical model of coastline deformation for sandy beach at downstream of a jetty

A reformed numerical model based on the “one-line theory” for beach deformation is presented. In this model, the change of beach slope during coastline procession is considered.A wave numerical model combined with wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is used to simulate wave climate to increase numerical accuracy.The results show that the numerical model has a good precision based on the adequate field data. The results can be applied to practical engineering.     

A short cut numerical method for determination of periods of free oscillations for basins with irregular geometry and bathymetry

A short cut numerical method for evaluation of the modes of free oscillations of the basins which have irregular geometry and bathymetry is presented in this paper. In the method, a single wave is inputted to the basin as an initial impulse. The respective agitation in the basin is computed by using the numerical method solving the nonlinear form of long wave equations. The time histories of water surface fluctuations at different locations due to propagation of the waves in relation to the initial impulse are stored and analyzed by the fast Fourier transform technique (FFT) and energy spectrum curves for each location are obtained. The frequencies of each mode of free oscillations are determined from the peaks of the spectrum curves. The method is tested by using regular shaped flat bottom basins with different depths. The computed periods of free oscillations are compared with the theoretical values. The accuracy and performance of the method are discussed. As a case study for the application to the basins of irregular shape and bathymetry, the periods of free oscillations of the sea of Marmara is determined and discussed.     

Contingent valuation analysis of willingness to pay for beach erosion control through the stabiplage technique: A study in Djerba (Tunisia)

Beach erosion can have major economic implications because of the potential impact on coastal recreation demand – particularly for countries where coastal tourism is one of the main sources of external revenue. Djerba Island (Tunisia) falls in that category. With about 125 km of coastline, Djerba Island is one of the most important Tunisian destinations. However, the island is experiencing coastal erosion problems. The Tunisia government launched a project to fight costal erosion through the Stabiplage technique. This study provides the first economic valuation of beach erosion control in Tunisia and is the first one that focuses on the Stabiplage technique. Specifically, a contingent valuation survey is carried out to elicit the public willingness to pay (WTP) for the project. An interval payment card question format is used to obtain information about WTP from representative samples of residents and tourists in Djerba. The results reveal a positive WTP for the project. Aggregate WTP estimates range from €133,459 (median value) to €5,180,269 (mean value). These values can help inform decisions about whether to undertake the project based on either the benefit-cost ratio rule or majority voting rule.     

Application of the ALE technique for underwater explosion analysis of a submarine liquefied oxygen tank

The design of submarines has continually evolved to improve survivability. Explosions may induce local damage as well as global collapse to a submarine. Therefore, it is important to realistically estimate the possible damage conditions due to underwater explosions in the design stage. The present study applied the Arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian (ALE) technique, a fluid–structure interaction approach, to simulate an underwater explosion and investigate the survival capability of a damaged submarine liquefied oxygen tank. The Lagrangian–Eulerian coupling algorithm, the equations of state for explosives and seawater, and the simple calculation method for explosive loading were also reviewed. It is shown that underwater explosion analysis using the ALE technique can accurately evaluate structural damage after attack. This procedure could be applied quantitatively to real structural design.     

Capabilities of the bathymetric Hawk Eye LiDAR for coastal habitat mapping: A case study within a Basque estuary

The bathymetric LiDAR system is an airborne laser that detects sea bottom at high vertical and horizontal resolutions in shallow coastal waters. This study assesses the capabilities of the airborne bathymetric LiDAR sensor (Hawk Eye system) for coastal habitat mapping in the Oka estuary (within the Biosphere Reserve of Urdaibai, SE Bay of Biscay, northern Spain), where water conditions are moderately turbid. Three specific objectives were addressed: 1) to assess the data quality of the Hawk Eye LiDAR, both for terrestrial and subtidal zones, in terms of height measurement density, coverage, and vertical accuracy; 2) to compare bathymetric LiDAR with a ship-borne multibeam echosounder (MBES) for different bottom types and depth ranges; and 3) to test the discrimination potential of LiDAR height and reflectance information, together with multi-spectral imagery (three visible and near infrared bands), for the classification of 22 salt marsh and rocky shore habitats, covering supralittoral, intertidal and subtidal zones. The bathymetric LiDAR Hawk Eye data enabled the generation of a digital elevation model (DEM) of the Oka estuary, at 2 m of horizontal spatial resolution in the terrestrial zone (with a vertical accuracy of 0.15 m) and at 4 m within the subtidal, extending a water depth of 21 m. Data gaps occurred in 14.4% of the area surveyed with the LiDAR (13.69 km²). Comparison of the LiDAR system and the MBES showed no significant mean difference in depth. However, the Root Mean Square error of the former was high (0.84 m), especially concentrated upon rocky (0.55–1.77 m) rather than in sediment bottoms (0.38–0.62 m). The potential of LiDAR topographic variables and reflectance alone for discriminating 15 intertidal and submerged habitats was low (with overall classification accuracy between 52.4 and 65.4%). In particular, reflectance retrieved for this case study has been found to be not particularly useful for classification purposes. The combination of the LiDAR-based DEM and derived topographical features with the near infrared and visible bands has permitted the mapping of 22 supralittoral, intertidal and subtidal habitats of the Oka estuary, with high overall classification accuracies of between 84.5% and 92.1%, using the maximum likelihood algorithm. The airborne bathymetric Hawk Eye LiDAR, although somewhat limited by water turbidity and wave breaking, provides unique height information obscured from topographic LiDAR and acoustic systems, together with an improvement of the habitat mapping reliability in the complex and dynamic coastal fringe.     

红鳍东方鲀人工育苗技术的初步研究

1996年从日本引进3kg（约180万粒）红鳍东方受精卵，在福建省宁德市进行人工育苗技术研究。孵出仔鱼70万尾，孵化率38．9％，培育出平均全长2．99cm的幼鱼18．5万尾，育苗成活率26．4％，并对人工育苗的关键技术进行了探讨。     

A comparison of two formulations of barotropic–baroclinic splitting for layered models of ocean circulation

In numerical models of ocean circulation, it is widespread practice to split the fast and slow motions into barotropic and baroclinic subsystems, respectively. In the case of the baroclinic equations, the dependent variables can either be (1) slowly-varying baroclinic quantities, obtained from splitting the original flow variables into barotropic and baroclinic components, or (2) the original unsplit variables, which can vary on both the fast and slow time scales. In the second case, the variables in each layer are adjusted after each (long) baroclinic time step to ensure compatibility with the results produced from the barotropic equations. The second approach can be applied to the layer thickness equation to ensure exact conservation of mass within each layer. In the case of the momentum equations, the second approach amounts to replacing unresolved fast portions of Coriolis and pressure forcing with time averages of well-resolved forcing from the barotropic system. In this study, both approaches for the momentum equations are evaluated, in several test problems, by comparing to analytical solutions or to solutions computed with an unsplit code that uses short time steps. The two methods give very similar results in some simple problems for which analytical solutions are known. However, in some eddying double-gyre simulations, the formulation with unsplit variables requires a significant reduction in the baroclinic time step in order to avoid numerical difficulties that include grid noise and inaccurate representation of the flow field. In contrast, the formulation with split variables does not display such difficulties, and in those same examples it can be used with zero explicit horizontal viscosity. All of these computations employ a two-level time-stepping method that was previously developed by the author.     

开放海区水下悬浮延绳式PVC 管养鲍新技术研究

为拓展养殖空间,发展开放海区鲍养殖产业,在福建兴化湾新开发海区进行了抗风浪养鲍新技术的研究,对开放海区与传统遮蔽养殖海区、延绳式PVC管养技术与传统筏架式筐养技术进行了分析比较.结果表明,经19个月的养殖,开放海区PVC管养组鲍的日均增质量以及成活率分别为(106.41±5.33)mg/d和82.75％,显著大于处在开放海区和遮蔽海区的2个筐养组(P＜0.05).冬春季为鲍的最佳生长时期,其日均增长表现为PVC管养组大于筐养组(P＜0.05);开放海区大于传统遮蔽养殖海区(P＜0.05).养殖器具的污损生物附着量则表现为所有筐养组均显著大于PVC管养组(P＜0.05).夏秋季采用水下延绳式PVC管养模式还能有效地避免高温、污损生物和台风的侵袭与危害.     

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method for the simulation of wave propagation

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method (ELM) is employed for the simulation of wave propagation in the present research. The wave action conservation equation, instead of the wave energy balance equation, is used. The wave action is conservative and the action flux remains constant along the wave rays. The ELM correctly accounts for this physical characteristic of wave propagation and integrates the wave action spectrum along the wave rays. Thus, the total derivative for wave action spectrum may be introduced into the numerical scheme and the complicated partial differential wave action balance equation is simplified into an ordinary differential equation. A number of test cases on wave propagation are carried out and show that the present method is stable, accurate and efficient. The results are compared with analytical solutions and/or other computed results. It is shown that the ELM is superior to the first-order upwind method in accuracy, stability and efficiency and may better reflect the complicated dynamics due to the complicated bathymetry features in shallow water areas.     

A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 1: Wave-current–turbulence interaction parameters for the open ocean based on traditional parameterizations

Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift U_ss, volume Stokes transport T_S, a wave breaking height scale H_swg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φ_oc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φ_oc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of T_S is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of U_ss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, U_ss  0.013U₁₀, where U₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height.     

SELFE: A semi-implicit Eulerian–Lagrangian finite-element model for cross-scale ocean circulation

Unstructured-grid models grounded on semi-implicit, finite-volume, Eulerian–Lagrangian algorithms, such as UnTRIM and ELCIRC, have enjoyed considerable success recently in simulating 3D estuarine and coastal circulation. However, opportunities for improving the accuracy of this type of models were identified during extensive simulations of a tightly coupled estuary–plume–shelf system in the Columbia River system. Efforts to improve numerical accuracy resulted in SELFE, a new finite-element model for cross-scale ocean modeling. SELFE retains key benefits, including computational efficiency of existing semi-implicit Eulerian–Lagrangian finite-volume models, but relaxes restrictions on grids, uses higher-order shape functions for elevation, and enables superior flexibility in representing the bathymetry. Better representation of the bathymetry is enabled by a novel, “localized” vertical grid that resembles unstructured grids. At a particular horizontal location, SELFE uses either S coordinates or SZ coordinates, but the equations are consistently solved in Z space. SELFE also performs well relative to volume conservation and spurious oscillations, two problems that plague some finite-element models. This paper introduces SELFE as an open-source code available for community use and enhancement. The main focus here is on describing the formulation of the model and on showing results for a range of progressively demanding benchmark tests. While leaving details to separate publications, we also briefly illustrate the superior performance of SELFE over ELCIRC in a field application to the Columbia River estuary and plume.