Refined seaward boundary conditions for modelling shallow water waves in semi-enclosed water bodies

Based on the theory of characteristics, this research elaborates on the numerical treatment of two types of seaward boundary conditions for modelling long-wave dynamics in truncated estuarine and coastal domains. These seaward boundary conditions are devised for the solution of the fully non-linear shallow water equations in the time domain. The first type is the clamped boundary, at which the water level variation is given and the velocity is computed along the characteristic line going out of the domain. The second type is the non-reflecting boundary, where the incident wave information is introduced and the reflected waves from inside the computational domain are allowed to escape at the same time. The essence of its numerical implementation is to distinguish the inward and outward characteristics and to disconnect the incoming characteristic relation from the actual flow inside the domain. Compared with previous techniques, the present method includes extra terms in the derivation to account for the effects of the uneven bed, bottom friction and shape of the characteristic lines. A shock-capturing finite difference method is used to solve the shallow water equations in the deviatoric format, but the seaward boundary algorithms constructed herein are generic and applicable to other solvers. The necessity of these refinements is highlighted by simulating the tidal oscillation in the Persian/Arabian Gulf, periodic wave runup on the coastline and the wave resonance in a narrow harbour. It is found that neglecting the bed slope at the boundary may result in biased mean water levels in the prediction.     

The applicability of the shallow water equations for modelling violent wave overtopping

The shallow water equations (SWE) have been used to model a series of experiments examining violent wave overtopping of a near-vertical sloping structure with impacting wave conditions. A finite volume scheme was used to solve the shallow water equations. A monotonic reconstruction method was applied to eliminate spurious oscillations and ensure proper treatment of bed slope terms. Both the numerical results and physical observations of the water surface closely followed the relevant Rayleigh probability distributions. However, the numerical model overestimated the wave heights and suffered from the lack of dispersion within the shallow water equations. Comparisons made on dimensionless parameters for the overtopping discharge and percentage of waves overtopping between the numerical model and the experimental observations indicated that for the lesser impacting waves, the shallow water equations perform satisfactorily and provide a good alternative to computationally more expensive methods.     

Development and validation of a finite element morphological model for shallow water basins

Recognising the importance of understanding sediment dynamics to evaluate the status of a coastal lagoon environment, this work has been focused on the investigation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes occurring in such basins. In order to describe the lagoon system, a modelling approach combining hydrodynamics, waves and sediment dynamics has been developed. The framework of the numerical model consists of a finite element hydrodynamic model, a third generation finite element spectral wave model and a sediment transport and morphodynamic model for both cohesive and non-cohesive sediments. The model adopts the finite element technique for spatial integration, which has the advantage to describe more accurately complicated bathymetry and irregular boundaries for shallow water areas. The developed model has been applied to test cases and to a very shallow tidal lagoon, the Venice Lagoon, Italy. Numerical results show good agreement with water level, waves and turbidity measurements collected in several monitoring stations inside the Lagoon of Venice. Such a model represents an indispensable tool in analysing coastal problems and assessing morphological impacts of human interference.     

On the role of shoreline boundary conditions in wave overtopping modelling with non-linear shallow water equations

The note extends and completes the analysis carried out by Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.] on the performance of a state of the art Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations solver in common coastal engineering applications. The case of bore-generated overtopping of a truncated plane beach is considered and the performance of the model is assessed by comparing with the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated beach. J. Fluid Mech. 440, 391–399.] analytical solution. In particular the influence of shoreline boundary conditions is investigated by considering the two best performing approaches discussed in Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]. Different distances of the edge of the beach from the bore collapse point are tested. For larger distances, the accuracy of the overtopping modelling decreases, as a consequence of the error in modelling the tip of the swash lens and, consequently, the run-up. A sensitivity analysis using the numerical resolution is carried out. This reveals that the approach in which cells shallower than a prescribed threshold are drained and wave propagation speeds for wet/dry Riemann problem are used at the interface between a wet and a dry cell (referred as Option 2ea in [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]) performs consistently better than the other.     

Non linear shallow water modelling of bore-driven swash: Description of the bottom boundary layer

The paper presents a simple approach to estimate the bottom shear stress in the swash zone by coupling the Non Linear Shallow Water Equations with the momentum integral equation for the bottom boundary layer. The approach allows not only the computation of the frictional dissipation term in the equations but also to have an insight into the flow structure in the water column during a swash event. The numerical results have been compared with a new set of experiments involving a single dam-break generated swash event. Three different grain sizes, ranging from coarse sand to gravel, have been tested in the laboratory.     

High-frequency reverberation in shallow water

Monostatic reverberation measurements were collected in shallow water, over a coarse gravel and cobble bottom, 100 m deep, off the coast of Nova Scotia. Data were collected at frequencies of 21, 28, and 36 kHz using linear FM pulses of 2-kHz bandwidth and 0.160-s duration. An anchored, high-frequency active sonar array deployed at a depth of 42 m was used to collect the data. The reverberation measurements were compared with estimates computed with the NUWC generic sonar model (GSM). The data were reasonably well modeled for times greater than 0.2 s after pulse transmission by neglecting surface reverberation and using Lambert's rule for bottom backscattering with a scattering coefficient of -27 dB, independent of frequency. At all three frequencies, the data and model show a peak approximately 0.9 s after pulse transmission. This peak results from a focusing effect that the downward-refracting sound-speed profile has on the interaction of the rays with the bottom     

Seismo-acoustic field statistics in shallow water

The spatial statistics of the acoustic field in shallow water are strongly affected by interfacial roughness and volume fluctuations in the water column or the seabed. These features scatter energy, reducing the coherence of the acoustic field. This paper introduces a consistent, mode-based modeling framework for ocean scattering. First, the rough surface scattering theory of Kuperman and Schmidt is reformulated in terms of normal modes, resulting in computation times which are reduced by several orders of magnitude. Next, a perturbation theory describing scattering from sound speed and density fluctuations in acoustic media is developed. The scattering theories are combined with KRAKEN, creating a unified normal mode code for wave theory modeling of shallow-water spatial statistics. The scattered field statistics are found to be a complicated function of scattering mechanism, scatterer statistics, and acoustic environment. Bottom properties, including elasticity, strongly influence the scattered field     

Wave-induced seabed response in shallow water

To simulate the wave-induced response of coupled pore fluids and a solid skeleton in shallow water, a set of solutions with different formulations (fully dynamic, partly dynamic, and quasi-static) corresponding to each soil behavior assumption is presented. To deal with Jacobian elliptic functions involved in the cnoidal theory, a Fourier series approximation is adopted for expanding the boundary conditions on the seabed surface. The parametric study indicates the significant effect of nonlinearity for shallow water wave, which also enhances the effect of soil characteristics. The investigation of the applicability of reduced formulations reveals the necessity of a partly or even fully dynamic formulation for the wave-induced seabed response problem in shallow water, especially for thickened seabed. The analysis of liquefaction in the seabed indicates that the maximum depth of liquefaction is shallower, and the width of liquefaction is broader under cnoidal wave loading. The present analytical model can provide more reasonable result for the wave-induced seabed response in the range of shallow water wave.     

Wave height distribution in shallow water

Probability distribution of shallow water wave heights, obtained from a pressure type recorder, are examined. It is tested with the theoretical distributions of (a) Rayleigh, (b) Weibull, (c) Gluhovski, (d) Ibrageemov and (e) Goda. The best fit is shown by the Gluhovski probability density function with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.8. The functions of Weibull, Ibrageemov and Goda fit only half of the tested cases. The role of wave steepness in the wave height distribution is found to be negligible.     

Analysis of body supercavitation in shallow water

Motion of a cavitating body in shallow waters undergoes a blockage effect. There are influences of the rigid boundary (the sea bottom) and the free boundary (sea surface) in shallow waters. As shown by computation carried out with the ideal fluid theory, the combination of these influences leads to an increase of cavitation number for a cavity of a fixed length and to 3D deformations of the cavity cross-sections, with a swelling of the down cavity part.     

Tomographic mapping of sediments in shallow water

Sediment compressional wave speeds were estimated using broad-band data in range-dependent environments. The environment was assumed as mildly range dependent and was modeled using adiabatic theory. The inversion scheme was based on group speed-dispersion behavior. A genetic algorithm (GA) combined with a neighborhood approach was used for the search. The top layer of sediment was mapped in the shelf region using acoustic data from explosive sources collected on a vertical line array.     

GEK measurements in a shallow water region

Evidence for the applicability of GEK (Geomagnetic Electrokinetography) measurements to shallow water regions is provided from observations in the shelf region of the East China Sea. The reason for the effectiveness of GEK measurements in this case is investigated theoretically, and it is shown to be attributable to the existence of a thick conductive sedimentary layer. In addition, it is shown that low conductive basement rock can be regarded as a good conductor for GEK measurements if the current width is broad enough and if the ratio of current width to water depth is larger than the resistivity ratio of basement rock to sea water. This implies that barotropic tidal currents can be measured with GEK in any ocean on the earth if they have significant magnitudes.     

Animal-sediment relations in shallow water benthic communities

Ninety benthic samples were used to study animal-sediment relations in Tomales Bay, California. While most of the benthic species studied were found more often in a particular type of substrate, individuals of such species were occasionally found in other substrates. There is a striking tendency for species occurring outside of their characteristic environment to be associated with the most diverse assemblages of the foreign substrate. Species low in the order of succession are those species that are found more frequently on other substrates. These phenomena are explained in terms of environmental stability. The concepts involved suggest a means of predicting the sequence of faunal changes following the alteration of the substrate.     

Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water

This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.     

光学浅水海草高光谱识别

以三亚湾泰莱藻为例, 对海草光谱特征进行分析。结果表明, 450—780nm是海草光谱主要敏感波段, 其波段内的导数光谱是海草叶面积大小序列辨别的有效依据。一阶导数获得的红边与叶片叶绿素a浓度密切相关。   海草在625nm、675nm 两处出现明显的导数特征峰, 两峰峰值相差较大; 其优势特征峰分布在550nm、700nm、750—780nm。实际应用中, 此特征可作为海草底质分类的识别条件, 与海草覆盖率和光谱特征的关系相结合, 可对大量的遥感数据进行识别, 从而达到大尺度遥感监测海草分布和动态变化的目的。     

浅水波长计算问题

浅水波周期保持常值,而波长缩减时其计算需进行迭代。提出了两个精度较高的经验公式供计算应用。水深波长比差值ΔLD0的变化规律反映出浅水波长缩减为一复杂过程,并与波能密度加大相关。LD0≤0.14时,特别是LD0=0.056前后,其特征会更加显著,由此可探讨波长变化的内在机理。     

Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models

Different shoreline boundary conditions for numerical models of the Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations based on Godunov-type schemes are compared. The study focuses on the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D.H., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated plane beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 440, 391–399.] problem of a single bore collapsing on a slope. This is considered the best test to assess performances of the shoreline boundary treatments in terms of all the parameters of interest in swash zone modelling. Emphasis is given to the shoreline trajectory and flow velocity modelling. A mismatch of the velocity at the early stage of the motion is highlighted. Most of the tested techniques perform similarly in terms of maximum run-up, the backwash phase is critical in all cases. Starting from the Brocchini et al. [Brocchini, M., Bernetti, R., Mancinelli, A., Albertini, G., 2001. An efficient solver for nearshore flows based on the WAF method. Coastal Engineering 43(2), 105–129.] shoreline boundary treatment, a simple technique that improves the accuracy of velocity predictions is also developed. A sensitivity analysis of the domain resolution and the threshold value of the water depth that defines a wet cell is also presented.     

Tomographic reconstruction of shallow water bubble fields

In March of 1997, a shallow water experiment was conducted near the Scripps Pier in La Jolla, CA, USA. The goal was to determine the dynamics, distribution, and acoustic effects of bubbles just offshore from active surf. A major component of the experiment was the “Delta Frame”, an apparatus that supported two acoustic sources and eight receivers. Acoustic intensity was measured at frequencies between 39 and 244 kHz over the resulting 16 horizontal ray paths. Paths ranged in length from 2.5 to 8.6 m. In the present paper, a tomography algorithm is developed and implemented using Delta Frame data. Measurements are combined to produce quantitative cross-sectional images of the attenuation associated with the bubble cloud. Numerical simulations predict that the Frame ran resolve details of the field down to about 2 m. Images constructed at different acoustic frequencies are scaled and compared. A 5-min sequence of images is studied in detail. Swell waves are shown to cause rapid fluctuations in the images     

Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water

Boussinesq type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics are derived and applied to study wave-wave interaction in shallow water. Weakly nonlinear solutions are formulated in terms of Fourier series with constant or spatially varying coefficients for two purposes: to derive higher order boundary conditions for regular and irregular wave trains and to derive evolution equations on constant or variable water depth. Wave transformation of monochromatic, bichromatic and irregular waves is studied and comparison with measurements and direct time domain solutions shows good agreement. The improvement relative to classical models from the literature is discussed.     

Wave diffraction by elliptical breakwaters in shallow water

The scattering of waves by both floating and submerged stationary elliptical breakwaters is investigated by means of linearised shallow water wave theory. This formulation leads to solutions for the fluid velocity potential in terms of Mathieu functions of real argument. Expressions are derived for the wave-induced forces and moments on the structures and their total and differential scattering cross-sections. Numerical results are presented for a range of wave and structural parameters.The present analysis serves as a prelude to a more comprehensive study of the problem without the shallow water restriction.