Wave climate scatter performance of a cycloidal wave energy converter

A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power P_W = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of P_G = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.     

On a near-optimal control approach for a wave energy converter in irregular waves

Real-time smooth reactive control and optimal damping of wave energy converters in irregular waves is difficult in part because the radiation impulse response function is real and causal, which constrains the frequency-dependent added mass and radiation damping according to the Kramers–Kronig relations. Optimal control for maximum energy conversion requires independent synthesis of the impulse response functions corresponding to these two quantities. Since both are non-causal (one being odd and other even), full cancellation of reactive forces and matching of radiation damping requires knowledge or estimation of device velocity into the future. To address this difficulty and the non-causality of the exciting force impulse response function, this paper investigates the use of propagating-wave surface elevation up-wave of the device to synthesize the necessary forces. Long-crested waves are assumed, and the approach is based on the formulations of Naito and Nakamura [2] and Falnes [22]. A predominantly heaving submerged device comprised of three vertically stacked discs driving a linear power take-off is studied. The overall formulation leads to smooth control that is near-optimal, given the approximations involved in the time-shifting of the non-causal impulse response functions and the consequent up-wave distances at which wave surface elevation is required. Absorbed power performance with the near-optimal approach is compared with two other cases, (i) when single-frequency tuning is used based on non-real time adjustment of the reactive and resistive loads to maximize conversion at the spectral peak frequency, and (ii) when no control is applied with damping set to a constant value. Simulation results for wave spectra over a range of energy periods and significant wave heights are compared for the three situations studied. While practical implementation presents engineering challenges, in terms of time-averaged absorbed power, unconstrained near-optimal control is found to perform significantly better than single-frequency tuning in the spectra with longer energy periods (>10 s for the present device), and somewhat better in the spectra with shorter energy periods (here ≤10 s).     

Spectral distribution of wave energy dissipation by salt marsh vegetation

Spectral energy dissipation of random waves due to salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) was analyzed using field data collected during a tropical storm. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were measured over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using 3 pressure transducers. The storm produced largely bimodal spectra on the wetland, consisting of low-frequency swell (7–10 s) and high-frequency (2–4.5 s) wind-sea. The energy dissipation varied across the frequency scales with the largest magnitude observed near the spectral peaks, above which the dissipation gradually decreased. The wind-sea energy dissipated largely in the leading section of the instrument array in the wetland, but the low-frequency swell propagated to the subsequent section with limited energy loss. Across a spectrum, dissipation did not linearly follow incident energy, and the degree of non-linearity varied with the dominant wave frequency. A rigid-type vegetation model was used to estimate the frequency-dependent bulk drag coefficient. For a given spectrum, this drag coefficient increased gradually up to the peak frequency and remained generally at a stable value at the higher frequencies. This spectral variation was parameterized by employing a frequency-dependent velocity attenuation parameter inside the canopy. This parameter had much less variability among incident wave conditions, compared to the variability of the bulk drag coefficient, allowing its standardization into a single, frequency-dependent curve for velocity attenuation inside a canopy. It is demonstrated that the spectral drag coefficient predicts the frequency-dependent energy dissipation with more accuracy than the integral coefficient.     

Solitary wave generation dynamics at Luzon Strait

A high resolution modeling study is undertaken, with a 2.5-dimensional nonhydrostatic model, of the generation of internal waves induced by tidal motion over the ridges in Luzon Strait. The model is forced by the barotropic tidal components K1, M2, and O1. These tidal components, along with the initial density field, were extracted from data and models. As the barotropic tide moves over the Luzon Strait sills, there is a conversion of barotropic tidal energy into baroclinic tidal energy. Depressions are generated that propagate towards the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX) test site on the Chinese continental shelf. Nonlinear effects steepen the depressions, frequency and amplitude dispersion set in, and disintegration into large amplitude solitary waves occurs. The effects of varying the initial density field, tidal component magnitudes, as well as adding a steady background current to represent the occasional excursions of the Kuroshio Current into the strait, are considered.Depressions are generated at each of the two sills in Luzon Strait which radiate away, steepening and evolving into internal solitary wave trains. Baroclinic fluxes of available potential energy, kinetic energy and linear are calculated for various parameter combinations. The solitary wave trains produced in the simulations generally consist of large amplitude wave trains alternating with small amplitude wave trains. During strong tidal flow, Kelvin–Helmholtz type instabilities can develop over the taller double-humped sill. The solitary waves propagating towards the ASIAEX test site have been observed to reach amplitudes of 120–250 m, depending on the tidal strength. ASIAEX observations indicate amplitudes up to 150 m and the Windy Island Experiment (WISE) measurements contain magnitudes over 200 m. The model results yield solitary wave amplitudes of 70–300 m and half widths of 0.60–3.25 km, depending on parameter values. These are in the range of observations. Measurements by Klymak et al. (2006), in the South China Sea, exhibit amplitudes of 170 m, half widths of 3 km and phase speeds of 2.9 m s^?1. Model predictions indicate that the solitary waves making up the wave packet each experience different background currents with strong near surface shear.The energy in the leading soliton of the large amplitude wave trains ranges between 1.8 and 9.0 GJ m^?1. The smaller value, produced using barotropic tidal currents based on the Oregon State University data base, is the same as the energy estimated to be in a solitary wave observed by Klymak et al. (2006). Estimates of the conversion of barotropic tidal energy into radiating internal wave energy yield conversion rates ranging between 3.6% and 8.3%.     

Trade-wind waves and mud dynamics on the French Guiana coast,South America: Input from ERA-40 wave data and field investigations

The South American coast between Brazil and Venezuela is affected by longshore migrating mud banks derived from the fine-grained Amazon sediment discharge. Onshore mud migration prevails over shallow ‘bank’ areas alternating alongshore with deeper ‘inter-bank’ areas. The transport on the inner shelf, and attachment to the shoreline, of this migrating mud has been attributed mainly to wind waves. However, the lack of in situ data on waves hampers understanding of the relationship between waves and mud dynamics. A 44-yr record (1960–2004) of the ERA-40 wave dataset generated by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used, in conjunction with field investigations in French Guiana, to define both event-scale and longer-term patterns of mud mobilisation induced by waves. The ratio H₀³ / T², combining wave height H and period T, and the angle of wave incidence α, were singled out as the most relevant parameters for describing wave forcing. Typical ‘bank’ and ‘inter-bank’ profiles and corresponding mud densities, and a 3-month record of changes in the thickness of the fluid mud layer in an estuarine navigation channel were monitored by echo-sounding from October 2002 to January 2003. An 80-day record of bed-level changes in the intertidal zone was obtained from August to November 2004 using a pressure transducer. The results on the wave regime of French Guiana confirm a distinctly seasonal pattern, and highlight an increase in H₀³ / T² over the 44-yr period related to an increase in trade-wind velocities determined from corresponding trends in Atlantic wind pseudo-stress off the South American coast. Wave forcing over bank areas leads to the liquefaction of a 1–3 m-thick layer of mud that is transported onshore (and alongshore by the longshore component of wave energy). The episodic nature of high wave energy events generally results in the formation of mud bar features from the shoreward mobilisation of gel-like fluid mud. The effect of waves on mud is particularly marked following long periods of low energy, and especially at the onset of the high wave energy season (October to May), when even moderate wave energy events can lead to significant mobilisation of mud.Significant phases of increased wave energy are attended by higher long-term (annual) rates of longshore mud bank migration but the correlation is rather poor between the wave forcing parameter H₀³ / T² and migration rates because stronger wave forcing is generally associated with low angles of wave incidence. This suggests a complementary role of other hydrodynamic mechanisms, such as geostrophic and tidal currents, in longshore mud bank migration.     

Modeling wave-mud interaction on the central chenier-plain coast,western Louisiana Shelf,USA

The strong coupling between hydrodynamics and seafloors on shallow muddy shelves, and resulting bed reworking, have been extensively documented. On these shelves, spectral wave transformation is driven by a complex combination of forcing mechanisms that include nonlinear wave interactions and wave energy dissipation induced by fluid-mud at a range of frequencies. Wave-mud interaction is investigated herein by using a previously validated nonlinear spectral wave model and observations of waves and near-bed conditions on a mildly-sloping seafloor off the muddy central chenier-plain coast, western Louisiana Shelf, United States. Measurements were made along a cross-shelf transect spanning 1 km between 4 and 3 m water depths. The high-resolution observations of waves and near-bed conditions suggest presence of a fluid mud layer with thickness sometimes exceeding 10 cm under strong long wave action (1 meter wave height with 7 s peak period at 4 meter depth). Spectral wave transformation is modeled using the stochastic formulation of the nonlinear Mild Slope Equation, modified to account for wave-breaking and mud-induced dissipation. The model is used in an inverse manner in order to estimate the viscosity of the fluid mud layer, which is a key parameter controlling mud-induced wave dissipation but complicated to measure in the field during major wave events. Estimated kinematic viscosities vary between 10⁻⁴-10⁻³ m²/s. Combining these results of the wave model simulations with in-depth analysis of near-bed conditions and boundary layer modeling allows for a detailed investigation of the interaction of nonlinear wave propagation and mud characteristics. The results indicate that mud-induced dissipation is most efficient when the wave-induced resuspensions of concentrations  > 10 g/L settle due to relatively small bottom stresses to form a fluid mud layer that is not as thin and viscous as a consolidated seafloor in absence of wave action but also not as thick and soft as a near-bed high concentration layer that forms during strong wave action.     

Mode-1 internal tides in the western North Atlantic Ocean

Mode-1 internal tides were observed the western North Atlantic using an ocean acoustic tomography array deployed in 1991–1992 centered on 25°N, 66°W. The pentagonal array, 700-km across, acted as an antenna for mode-1 internal-tides. Coherent internal-tide waves with O(1 m) displacements were observed traveling in several directions. Although the internal tides of the region were relatively quiescent, they were essentially phase locked over the 200–300 day data record lengths. Both semidiurnal and diurnal internal waves were detected, with wavenumbers consistent with those calculated from hydrographic data. The M₂ internal-tide energy flux was estimated to be about 70 W m⁻¹, suggesting that mode-1 waves radiate 0.2 GW of energy, with large uncertainty, from the Caribbean island chain at this frequency. A global tidal model (TPXO 5) suggested that 1–2 GW is lost from the M₂ barotropic tide over this region, but the precise value was uncertain because the complicated topography makes the calculation problematic. In any case, significant conversion of barotropic to baroclinic tidal energy does not occur in the western North Atlantic basin. It is apparent, however, that mode-1 internal tides have very weak decay and retain their coherence over great distances, so that ocean basins may be filled up with such waves. Observed diurnal amplitudes were an order of magnitude larger than expected. The amplitude and phase variations of the K₁ and O₁ constituents observed over the tomography array were consistent with the theoretical solutions for standing internal waves near their turning latitude. The energy densities of the resonant diurnal internal waves were roughly twice those of the barotropic tide at those frequencies.     

Wave attenuation in mangroves: A quantitative approach to field observations

Coastal mangroves, dwelling at the interface between land and sea, provide an important contribution to reducing risk from coastal hazards by attenuating incident waves and by trapping and stabilizing sediments. This paper focusses on relations between vegetation densities, wave attenuation rates, sediment characteristics and sedimentation rates in mangroves. These processes were studied along two cross-shore transects through mangroves fringing estuaries in the southern Andaman region of Thailand. Volumetric vegetation densities in these mangroves were ranging up to 32‰, depending on the water depth. Generalized total wave attenuation rates increased from 0.002 m^− 1 in the sparsely vegetated forest fringes with Avicennia and Sonneratia species, up to 0.012 m^− 1 in the dense Rhizophora vegetation in the back of the forests. The total wave attenuation rates integrate effects of shoaling and energy losses due to various bio-physical interactions within the mangrove ecosystem. Wave attenuation in the mangroves is presumably dominated by energy losses due to vegetation drag, since wave attenuation due to bottom friction and viscous dissipation on the bare mudflats is significantly lower than those inside the mangrove vegetation.Additionally, wave attenuation in the mangroves was found to facilitate enhanced net sediment deposition and a gradual fining of the bed material. These findings corroborate the coastal defence function of mangroves by quantifying their contribution to wave attenuation and sediment trapping. The explicit linking of these properties to vegetation composition and structure facilitates modelling studies investigating the mechanisms determining the coastal defence capacities of mangroves.     

Experimental study of interactions between multi-directional focused wave and vertical circular cylinder,part II: Wave force

We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale k_pa (k_p is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves.     

Focused wave evolution using linear and second order wavemaker theory

In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (f_c = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/f_c = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models.     

Analytical investigation of hydrodynamic performance of a dual pontoon WEC-type breakwater

Based on the linear potential flow theory and matching eigen-function expansion technique, an analytical model is developed to investigate the hydrodynamics of two-dimensional dual-pontoon floating breakwaters that also work as oscillating buoy wave energy converters (referred to as the integrated system hereafter). The pontoons are constrained to heave motion independently and the linear power take-off damping is used to calculate the absorbed power. The proposed model is verified by using the energy conservation principle. The effects of the geometrical parameters on the hydrodynamic properties of the integrated system, including the reflection and transmission coefficients and CWR (capture width ratio, which is defined as the ratio of absorbed wave power to the incident wave power in the device width). It is found that the natural frequency of the heave motion and the spacing of the two pontoons are the critical factors affecting the performance of the integrated system. The comparison between the results of the dual-pontoon breakwater and those of the single-pontoon breakwater shows that the effective frequency range (for condition of transmission coefficient K_T < 0.5 and the total capture width ratio η_total > 20%) of the dual-pontoon system is broader than that of the single-pontoon system with the same total volume. For the two-pontoon system, the effective frequency range can be broadened by decreasing the draft of the front pontoon within certain range.     

Coastal defence through wave farms

The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection.     

Hydrodynamic performance of double rows of piles suspending horizontal c shaped bars

The wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation of the double rows of vertical piles suspending horizontal steel C shaped bars are experimentally and theoretically studied under normal regular waves. Different wave and structural parameters are investigated e.g. the wave length, the C shaped bars draft and spacing, the supporting piles diameter and spacing, and the space between the double rows. Also, the theoretical model based on an eigenfunction expansion method is developed to study the hydrodynamic breakwater performance. In order to examine the validity of the theoretical model, the theoretical results are compared with the experimental and theoretical results obtained by different authors. Comparison between experiments and predictions showed that theoretical model provides a good estimate to the different hydrodynamic coefficients when the friction factors of the upper and the lower parts are f_U = 1.5 and f_L = 0.75. The present breakwater physical model gives efficiency near other similar systems of different shapes.     

Surface wave predictions in weakly nonlinear directional seas

We have employed laboratory and numerical experiments in order to investigate propagation of waves in both long and short-crested wave fields in deep water. For long-crested waves with steepness, ϵ = k_ca_c = 0.1 (a fairly extreme case), reliable prediction can be performed with the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation up to about 40 characteristic wavelengths. For short-crested waves the accuracy of prediction is strongly reduced with increasing directional spread.     

Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades

Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25°W–0°W and 30°N–60° N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spectral wave model forced with reanalysis wind fields. The hindcast analysis reveals firstly strong seasonal fluctuations of wave climate, with winters characterized by large and long-period waves of mean direction spreading from south-west to north-west, and summers characterized by smaller and shorter-period waves originating from norther directions. From northern (55°N) to southern (35°N) latitudes, the significant wave height (Hs) decreases by roughly 40%, the mean wave direction (Mwd) rotates clockwise by about 25% while the peak period (Tp) only grows by 5%. These three parameters also exhibit a strong inter-annual variability, particularly when winter-means (from 1st of December to 1st of April) are considered. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows spatially variable long-term trends, with a significant increase of Hs (up to 0.02 m yr^?1) and a counterclockwise shift of Mwd (up to ?0.1° yr^?1) at northern latitude, contrasting with a fairly constant trend for Hs and a clockwise shift of Mwd (up to +0.15° yr^?1) at southern latitudes. Long-term trends of Tp are less significant, with still a slight increase in the north-eastern part of the study area (up to +0.01 s yr^?1). Eventually, a comparison between the inter-annual variability of the winter-means of the three selected wave parameters and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) reveals: (1) a strong positive correlation between Hs and the NAO index at northern latitudes (correlation coefficient up to R = 0.91) and a significant negative correlation at southern latitudes (up to R = ?0.6); (2) no significant correlation for Mwd north of 40°N and a clear positive correlation southward of 40°N (up to R = 0.8) and (3) a northward increasing correlation for Tp (up to R = 0.8). Long-term trends for Hs, Mwd and Tp are finally explained by a significant increase in the NAO index over the studied period.     

Computations of the energy flux to mixing processes via baroclinic wave drag on barotropic tides

The geographical distribution of barotropic to baroclinic transfer of tidal energy by baroclinic wave drag in the abyssal ocean is estimated. Using tidal velocities from a state-of-the-art numerical tidal model, the total loss of barotropic tidal energy in the deep ocean (between 70°S and 70°N and at depths greater than 1000 m) is estimated to be about 0.7 TW (M₂) corresponding to a mean value of the energy flux (e) of 2.4×10⁻³ W/m². The distribution of e is however highly skewed with a median of about 10⁻⁶ W/m². Only 10% of the area is responsible for more than 97% of the total energy transfer.To assess the possible influence of the relatively coarse bathymetry representation upon the present estimate, complementary calculations using better resolved sea floor topography are carried out over a control area around the Hawaiian Ridge. There are no major differences between the results achieved using the two different bathymetry databases. Fluxes of about 16 GW or 6×10⁻³ W/m² are computed in both cases, and the main contributions to the total fluxes originate in the same range of e-values and cover equally large parts of the total area.It is not clear whether the present model is valid at flat or subcritical bottom slopes. However, for the Hawaiian region, only 2% of the total energy flux as calculated in the present study originates in areas of critical and subcritical slopes.     

The influence of sea state on formation speed of alongshore variability in surf zone sand bars

The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (T_p ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (T_p ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability.     

Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow

New experiments were carried out in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel of WL|Delft Hydraulics (scale 1:1) using asymmetric 2nd-order Stokes waves. The main aim was to gain a better understanding of size-selective sediment transport processes under oscillatory plane-bed/sheet-flow conditions. The new data show that for uniform sand sizes between 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm, measured net transport rates are hardly affected by the grain size and are proportional to the third-order velocity moment. However for finer grains (D = 0.13 mm) net sand transport rates change from the ‘onshore’ direction into the ‘offshore’ direction in the high velocity range. A new measuring technique for sediment concentrations, based on the measurement of electro-resistance (see [McLean, S.R., Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M. and Hassan, W.N.M., 2001. Sediment transport measurements within the sheet flow layer under waves and currents. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ISSN 0733-950X]), was developed further for the improved measurement of sediment dynamics inside the sheet-flow layer. This technique enabled the measurements of particle velocities during the complete wave cycle. It is observed that for long period waves (T = 12.0 s), time-dependent concentrations inside the sheet-flow layer are nearly in phase with the time-dependent flow velocities. As the wave period decreases, the sediment entrainment from the bed as well as the deposition process back to the bed lags behind the wave motion more and more. The new data show that size-gradation has almost no effect on the net total transport rates, provided the grain sizes of the sand mixture are in the range of 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm. However, if very fine grains (D = 0.13 mm) are present in the mixture, net total transport rates of graded sand are generally reduced in comparison with uniform sand with the same D₅₀. The transport rates of individual size fractions of a mixture are strongly influenced by the presence of other fractions in a mixture. Fine particles in sand mixtures are relatively less transported than in that uniform sand case, while the opposite occurs for coarse fractions in a mixture. The relative contribution of the coarse grains to the net total transport is therefore larger than would be expected based on their volume proportion in the original sand mixture. This partial transport behaviour is opposite to what is generally observed in uni-directional (e.g. river) flows. This is caused by vertical sorting of grain sizes in the upper bed layer and in the sheet flow and suspension layers. Kinematic sorting is believed to be responsible for the development of a coarse surface layer on top of a relatively fine sub-layer, providing in this way a relatively large flow exposure for the coarser sizes. Furthermore fine grains are suspended more easily than coarse grains to higher elevations in the flow where they are subject to increasing phase-lag effects (settling lags). The latter also leads to reduced net transport rates of these finer sizes.     

Measurement and modelling of the influence of grain size and pressure gradient on swash uprush sediment transport

The paper examines the dependency between total sediment transport, q, and grain size, D (i.e. q ∝ D^p) under dam break generated swash flows. Experiments were performed in a dam break flume over a sloping mobile sand bed with median grain sizes ranging from 0.22 mm to 2.65 mm. The total sediment transport was measured by truncating the flume bed and collecting the sediment transported over the edge. The experiments were designed to exclude pre-generated turbulence and pre-suspended sediment so as to focus solely on the swash flow. The magnitude and nature of the grain size dependency (i.e. p value) were inferred for different flow parameters; the initial dam depth, d_o, the integrated depth averaged velocity cubed, ∫ u³dt, and against the predicted transport potential, q_p, using the Meyer-Peter Muller (MPM) transport model and variations of that model. The data show that negative dependencies (p < 0) are obtained for d_o and q_p, whilst positive dependencies (p > 0) are obtained for ∫ u³dt. This indicates that a given d_o and q_p transport less sediment as grain size increases, whereas transport increases with grain size for a given ∫ u³dt. The p value is found to be narrowly ranged, 0.5 ≤ p ≤ − 0.5. On average, the incorporation of a pressure gradient term via the piezometric head into the MPM formulation reduces q_p by 4% (fine sand) to 18% (coarse sand). The measured total transport for fine and coarse sands is best predicted using MPM and MPM + dp*/dx respectively. However, the inferred optimum transport coefficient in the MPM formulation is about 30, much higher than the standard coefficient in a steady flow and this is not due to the presence of the pre-suspended sediment. The optimum transport coefficient indicates some sensitivity to grain size, suggesting that some transport processes remain unaccounted for in the model.