Application of MEP Method to the Study of Statistical Properties of Random Waves

—The maximum entropy principle(MEP)method and the corresponding probability evaluationmethod are introduced,and the maximum entropy probability distribution expression is deduced in mo-ment of the second order.Fully developed wave height distribution in deep water and wave height and peri-od distribution for different depths in wind wave channel experiment are obtained from the MEP method,and the results are compared with the distribution and the experimental histogram.The waveheight and period distribution for the Lianyungang port is also obtained by the MEP method,and the re-sults are compared with the Weibull distribution and the field histogram.     

墨西哥湾波候统计特性分析

简要介绍了波候的概念,简述Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布及对数一正态分布的拟合方法,提出最大熵分布拟合有效波高、峰周期分布的新方法;选取半封闭海湾墨西哥湾内水深不同、地理位置不同的六个观测站一年的连续资料,以上述三种拟合方法对其有效波高,峰周期概率分布进行拟合,并与观测直方图进行比较检验,结果表明,在墨西哥海湾内,最大熵分布优于对数－正态分布,对数－正态分布优于Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布。     

Modified Weibull distribution for maximum and significant wave height simulation and prediction

Calibration coefficients incorporated in the modified Weibull distribution are more effective for maximum wave height simulation. The parametric relations are derived there from to estimate various wave height statistics including extreme wave heights. The characteristic function of the Weibull distribution is derived. The Weibull distribution is suggested for the newly defined significant wave height simulation by the method of characteristic function. The statistical tools suggested and developed here for predicting the required wave height statistics are validated against the wave data (both deep and shallow) of eastern Arabian Sea comprising rough monsoon conditions also, giving reasonable accuracy.     

最大熵原理应用于海浪波高分布的研究

利用最大熵原理从理论上推导出波高的最大熵分布,在此基础上研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高熵的影响。影响最大熵分布的因子是平均波高和状态参量,不同海况对应的状态参量是不同的。利用波高实测资料,得出3种不同海况下的最大熵分布,通过比较发现最大熵分布很好地符合实测数据。把最大熵分布与目前广泛应用的瑞利分布作了比较,结果表明,最大熵分布有2个优点：没有对波高作出任何限制性假定和能够描述不同海况下的波高分布。     

Weibull分布参数的粒子群算法估计

基于广西涠洲岛海洋监测站3个方向的年极值波高观测资料,在假设其服从Weibull分布的基础上,运用最小二乘法,矩估计法和最速下降法对Weibull分布的参数进行估计,同时引入粒子群算法确定Weibull分布的3个参数,对文中4种方法得出的拟合结果及运算效率进行比较分析,说明了粒子群算法在估计极值分布参数中的优势.     

广西沿海年极值波高分析

经分析发现广西沿海极值波高不符合用的P－Ⅲ型分布，并分析了其符合的分布函数，结果表明对Weibull分布符合最好，为解决Weibull分布参数难于确定的问题，引入了共轭梯度法计算其参数，最终计算了多年一遇极值波高。     

Prediction of Extreme Significant Wave Height from Daily Maxima

For prediction of the extreme significant wave height in the ocean areas where long term wave data are not available, the empirical method of extrapolating short term data (1-3 years) is used in design practice. In this paper two methods are proposed to predict extreme significant wave height based on short-term daily maxima. According to the da-a recorded by the Oceanographic Station of Liaodong Bay at the Bohai Sea, it is supposed that daily maximum wave heights are statistically independent. The data show that daily maximum wave heights obey log-normal distribution, and that the numbers of daily maxima vary from year to year, obeying binomial distribution. Based on these statistical characteristics, the binomial-log-normal compound extremum distribution is derived for prediction of extreme significant wave heights (50-100 years). For examination of its accuracy and validity, the prediction of extreme wave heights is based on 12 years' data at this station, and based on each 3 years' data respectively     

海洋重现期波高统一化计算方法

重现期波高是港口海岸及海洋工程设计中不可回避的一个重要设计参数,尤其对深水海港、海上平台、海底油气管道、沿海核电站等重大涉海工程设计具有巨大的经济价值和深远的社会效益。但是,现有重现期波高推算缺乏统一的计算方法,导致计算结果相差悬殊。研究重现期波高的统一化计算方法,分析重现期波高计算中存在的各种不确定因素,提出减少这些不确定因素的新方法,建立误差小、应用方便、方法统一的重现期波高计算方法。基于澳大利亚悉尼站的长期连续观测波浪数据,研究发现:广义帕累托函数(generalized Pareto distribution III,GPD-III)和威布尔(Weibull)是重现期波高计算的最佳候选极值分布函数,新推导的函数形状参数计算公式较好提高重现期波高的计算精度,极值波高数据的分析方法和样本大小是影响重现期波高计算精确度的两个重要因素,短期波浪资料和年极值法可能高估重现期波高值。逐个风暴的极值波高数据分析法及最佳候选极值分布函数GPD-III和Weibull建议应用于涉海工程设计的重现期波高推算。     

设计波高推算的一种新模型

考虑台风影响海域的设计波高,结合复合极值理论和最大熵原则,构造了1种新型的具有4个待定参量和1个台风频次参量的poisson-最大熵分布函数模型,并推导出求解参数的方程组,参数的数值解可通过年极值实测数据的期望、方差、偏度和峰度得到.以黄海某观测站26 a极值波高的实测数据为例计算了新模型中4个待定参量和多年一遇设计波高,并与传统常用计算方法得到的结果进行比较.比较表明,新模型相比传统方法具有一定的优势.     

Application of Maximum Entropy Distribution to the Statistical Properties of Wave Groups

The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented.The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limited amount of information.Its applications to the wave group properties show the effectiveness of the maximum entropy distribution.FFT filtering method is employed to obtain the wave envelope fast and efficiently.Comparisons of both the maximum entropy distribution and the distribution of Longuet-Higgins(1984) with the laboratory wind-wave data show that the former gives a better fit     

基于Copula函数的海岸增水高度与相应风速的遭遇概率分析

简要论述了Copula理论与几种常用的二维Archimedean Copula函数的性质和适用性。以粤东汕头海域妈屿历年最高增水高度与相应风速的遭遇为研究实例,在分别采用3个三参数的概率分布模式:广义极值分布(GEV)、Weibull分布(WBL)和皮尔逊Ⅲ型(P-Ⅲ)分布对两个边缘分布(年最高增水高度与相应风速)拟合优度检验基础上构建了两变量联合概率分布模型。主要结果如下:(1) 年最大增水高度与相应风速的边缘分布分别服从Weibull分布和P-Ⅲ型分布;(2) 拟合优度检验指标表明二者的最优连接函数为Archimedean Copula类的Gumbel-Hougaard Copula;(3) 重现期介于2~200 a之间的边缘分布与同频率的联合分布的重现水平相对差值大约介于6.7%~22.2%之间;(4) 特定风速设计频率条件下,随年最大增水设计频率的减小,二者的遭遇概率也随之迅速减小;反之,特定增水设计频率随风速条件频率的减小,二者的遭遇概率随之明显增大。     

Design estimates of surface wave interaction with compliant deepwater platforms

The extreme behavior of surface waves as they encounter and pass compliant deepwater platforms is an important class of problems for offshore engineers attempting to specify the platform deck elevation. In this study analytical expressions for the probability density and cumulative distribution functions that utilize empirical coefficients in an attempt to accurately model surface wave runup and airgap problems are presented. The analysis focuses upon interpreting the tails of the measured data histograms using two parameter Weibull distribution models. The appropriate empirical constants, assumed to be solely dependent upon the significant wave height, were evaluated and compared for all the test data. Based upon a small select set of data, for a mini-TLP and two Spar platforms, the airgap problem was found to be adequately modeled using a Rayleigh distribution. Further, for the seven seastates analyzed, the Weibull shape parameter was nearly constant and the data confirmed that the exclusive fit of the scale parameter assuming dependence only on the significant wave height was a reasonable approach for modeling the wave runup. Finally, by combining these models with a Poisson return model for each storm the associated reliability estimates for various deck heights were estimated.     

欧洲北海海域波高区间分布概率研究

为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4～5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7～14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。     

基于LPB1-2型声学测波仪资料的近岸浪特征分析

为研究近岸浪的形态特征,利用LPB1-2型声学测波仪在某海域所测得的海浪数据对近岸浪特征要素进行统计分析,利用最大"熵"原理推导出了波高的最大"熵"分布,研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高"熵"的影响。研究表明,该海域的波主要以波高0.3~0.7 m,周期2.5~5.5 s的波为主,表示离散程度的特征值平均差为0.267,日极差值主要在0.1~0.4 m区间内,最大值为1.0 m,分布较为集中,波高分布近似为正态分布。     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Statistical properties of successive wave heights and successive wave periods

Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations.     

波高的长期极值统计分布

通过对国内外常用的４种极值波高分布模式的拟合与比较,得到了以下结论：（１）由于地区差异,港口工程技术规范给出的一单一模式并非具有普遍性,对同一工程应该采用多种理论分布进行计算比较,从中选择最佳模式。（２）应用麦奎尔特法拟合Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布实现了对未知参数的一举寻优,解的收敛速度快,结果稳定且精度高。同时对其它几种分布实现了资料的微机化处理;（３）本文算例用４种极值分布对不同重视值波高进行了比较,     

Surface Elevation Distribution of Sea Waves Based on the Maximum Entropy Principle

A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability. Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions. In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.     

A Comparative Study of the Statistical Distributions of Wave Heights

Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied.Recordsof surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed.Wave heights can be approximated by normal,two-parameter Weibull,and/or Rayleigh distribution.However,while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satis-factorily,the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases stu-died.Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model,but as with increasingwind speeds,water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality,and the Edgeworth's form ofthe type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.