台风浪模拟预报中的风场比较研究

在对模拟台风浪时海浪模式常用的经验模型风场和多重嵌套中尺度气象数值模式风场的结构和时间演变特征进行对比分析的基础上,分别采用这两种风场资料,应用最新版本的第三代海浪模式SWAN对Winnie(1997)引起的台风浪进行了模拟,将模拟的有效波高与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星高度计资料作了详细的对比分析。结果表明,经验模型风场对实际台风风场的刻画存在诸多缺陷,这些缺陷对于台风浪的准确模拟产生了不可忽视的影响,采用模式风场试验的模拟效果优于采用模型风场的试验。论文提出了在运用海浪模式模拟台风浪时用数值模式模拟风场替代经验模型风场的必要性。     

全球有效波高和风速的时空变化及相关关系研究

The climatology of significant wave height（SWH） and sea surface wind speed are matters of concern in the fields of both meteorology and oceanography because they are very important parameters for planning offshore structures and ship routings. The TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter, which collected data for about 13 years from September 1992 to October 2005, has measured SWHs and surface wind speeds over most of the world＇s oceans. In this paper, a study of the global spatiotemporal distributions and variations of SWH and sea surface wind speed was conducted using the TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter data set. The range and characteristics of the variations were analyzed quantitatively for the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans. Areas of rough waves and strong sea surface winds were localized precisely, and the correlation between SWH and sea surface wind speed analyzed.     

非结构网格模型在闽东沿海台风浪模拟中的应用

基于加密的非结构三角网格,以Holland模型风场叠加美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）海面风场构造的合成风场驱动第三代浅水波浪数值模型（SWAN）对2017年影响闽东海域的“纳沙”和“泰利”台风过程进行数值模拟,并运用浮标站的实测数据对模拟结果进行验证.结果表明,模型计算的风速、有效波高与实测值符合较好,合成风场能较好地模拟台风期间的风速变化过程,SWAN模式能够合理地再现闽东沿海台风浪的时空分布特征.由模拟结果可见：台风“纳沙”中心越过台湾岛进入台湾海峡北部海面,受海峡地形的约束,其波浪场呈NE—SW向椭圆状分布,北部海域的浪高大于南部,闽东沿海遍布大范围的巨浪到狂浪;超强台风“泰利”未登陆闽东,当其台风中心与大陆的距离最近时,海面波浪场分布与台风风场结构一致,台风中心附近海域为14 m以上的怒涛区,巨浪遍布于闽东沿海.研究结果可为闽东沿海台风浪灾害预警和应急管理提供技术支撑和参考依据.     

Modeling drift currents in a shallow basin with allowance for variations in tangential stresses induced by wind waves

A coupling model for calculating wind-driven currents and waves in a shallow basin with allowance for current-wave interactions is introduced. The model is constructed on the basis of the three-dimensional σ-coordinate model of currents [3] and the SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) spectral wave model [4]. The effect of waves on currents is taken into account in the coefficients of surface and bottom friction through roughness parameters. Results of combined modeling of stationary fields of currents and waves generated by spatially homogeneous wind are correlated with the corresponding results of separate modeling for a cylindrical basin of constant depth and the water area of Lake Donuzlav (the northwestern coast of the Crimea). The allowance for the effect of waves during calculation of tangential wind stresses in the model of currents is shown to be among major factors intensifying water circulation and forming spatial inhomogeneities of the vortex type. In addition, some cases of local decreases in tangential wind stresses are revealed; they appear when the lake is penetrated from the side of the open sea by relatively long waves, which significantly decrease the roughness of the water surface.     

Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.     

Average velocity field of the air flow over the water surface in a laboratory modeling of storm and hurricane conditions in the ocean

Laboratory experiments on studying the structure of the turbulent air boundary layer over waves were carried out at the Wind-Wave Channel of the Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences (IAP RAS), in conditions modeling the near-water boundary layer of the atmosphere under strong and hurricane winds and the equivalent wind velocities from 10 to 48 m/s at the standard height of 10 m. A modified technique of Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) was used to obtain turbulent pulsation averaged velocity fields of the air flow over the water surface curved by a wave and average profiles of the wind velocity. The measurements showed that the logarithmic part of the velocity profile of the air flow in the channel was observed in the immediate vicinity from the water surface (at a distance of 30 mm) and could be detected only using remote methods (PIV). According to the measured velocity profiles, dependences of aerodynamic drag factors of the water surface on the wind velocity at a height of 10 m were retrieved; they were compared with results of contact measurements carried out earlier on the same setup. It is shown that they agree with an accuracy of up to 20%; at moderate and strong wind velocities the coincidence falls within the experimental accuracy.     

The effects of random surface waves on the steady Ekman current solutions

The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42, 134–149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313–351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313–351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971–5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift.     

On the hydrodynamic correction of SEASAT altimeter data (Hudson bay area of Canada)

Abstract

The SEASAT Geophysical Data Record (GDR) file includes a number of corrections for instruments, atmospheric effects, coastal effects, and geophysical effects. However, the transient sea surface variation due to the ocean circulation and wind surge is not implemented. In this research an interactive numerical scheme, based on the vertically integrated hydrodynamic equations, is developed to make this correction. Since the exactness of the transient sea surface depends upon the exactness of the input meteorological data, a method is also developed for extracting surface wind speed and direction from weather charts for the interactive hydrodynamic numerical algorithm.

The application of the algorithm over the Hudson Bay of Canada demonstrates that this technique can easily be applied to any regional altimeter data over a water‐covered area. The resulting transient sea surface profiles and the comparisons between wind fields derived from the weather charts and altimeter inferred wind fields over Hudson Bay for revolution numbers 559, 564, and 574 are presented.     

Short-wave measurements by a fixed tower-based and a drifting buoysystem

The small-scale roughness of the sea surface acts as an important link in air-sea interaction processes. Radar and sonar waves are scattered by short surface waves providing the basis for remote sensing methods of the sea surface. At high wind speeds, breaking waves occur. Bubbles penetrate into the water and drastically increase acoustical reverberation, transmission loss and ambient noise. Thus, the development of short waves and wave breaking have to be known to apply radar remote sensing to the surface and to deduce from radar backscatter which sonar conditions prevail. To measure the wind dependence of short waves an experimental device was constructed for use from stationary platforms. It is nearly all-weather capable and can easily be handled by a crane. On the other hand, frequencies of short waves measured in a fixed position are extremely frequency shifted by currents. This limits the usefulness of tower-based measurements, e.g., the short wave modulation by wind and waves or currents can only be estimated in a rough approximation. Consequently, a buoy was developed to reduce the frequency shifts. The principle of the buoy is to drift in the local surface current and to follow the amplitudes of long waves. Therefore, short waves are measured in facets of long waves and the Doppler shifts are minimized. The wind is measured at a constant height above the long wave profile and relative to the moving facets. The paper describes the conventional measuring device and points out the necessity of the drifting buoy system. Examples of wind and wave spectra are presented and short wave modulations by long waves are depicted, too. From these measurements, new insights in short wave behaviour have to be expected     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. In some waves a distinct high vorticity region, with flow in excess of the phase speed in the surface thin layer, is formed near the crest as shown in Part I of this study, but the streamlines are found to remain quite regular even very near the water surface. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe wave breaking. Below the surface vorticity layer a quite regular wave motion dominates. However, this wave motion is strongly affected by the presence of the high vorticity region. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately, from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves.     

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。     

Typical fields of wind waves and swells in the Northern Pacific

Using all of the atmospheric patterns classified by Polyakova A.M., we accomplished calculations of the surface wind fields over the North Pacific for wind waves observable 6, 12, 18, and 24 hours after a storm and the swell waves observable 24, 48, and 72 hours after a storm. The considerable extension of the ocean creates quasi-unlimited speeding up of the wind waves during continuous strong winds (over 20 meters per second). This determines the presence of wide areas of highly developed wind waves with a 5% probability that the wave heights will exceed the 10–12 meter estimates. The swell waves decay faster: their height reduces by half in 24 h, while, in 72 h, they achieve the background level of the ocean’s swell waves.     

The wind field over wind-waves

The velocity fluctuations of wind over wind-waves in a wind tunnel are measured with a X-type hot-wire anemometer at some heights over the water surface.The observed vertical profiles of the wave-induced velocity fluctuations and the wave-induced Reynolds stress at the wave spectral peak frequency are different from those expected from the inviscid quasi-laminar model;i.e., the observed vertical profiles of the power spectral density of the wave-induced horizontal or vertical velocity fluctuations of wind have the minimum value at the height much heigher than the critical layer, and the value of the wave-induced Reynolds stress is negative at several heights over the water surface. From the comparison between the experimental results and the numerical solutions of a linear model of the turbulent shear flow over the wavy boundary, it is shown that the discrepancy described above can be attributed to the atmospheric turbulence.     

Numerical simulation of stably stratified turbulent flows over an urban surface: Spectra and scales and parameterization of temperature and wind-velocity profiles

Stably stratified turbulent flows over surfaces with explicit roughness elements have been calculated using an LES model. The results of calculations for different height distributions of external dynamic forcing are compared and discussed. The spatial spectra and cospectra of turbulent wind-velocity fluctuations have been calculated and different methods of normalizing them have been studied. A parameterization allowing mean wind-velocity and temperature profiles to be approximated has been proposed for turbulence scale.     

高海况海洋遥感信息提取技术研究进展

中等海况下,星载合成孔径雷达(Synthetic Aperture Radar,SAR)已经广泛应用于海洋动力环境要素的监测(风场、波浪、流场)。近年来,SAR高海况遥感,尤其是探测台风海面风场、巨浪、流场已经成为国内外研究热点,并突破了一些关键技术。利用SAR多极化成像模式对海观测和新发展的地球物理模式函数,可以提取高海况下的海面风速、风向、有效波高、流速和流向等海洋表面关键物理参数。这些环境要素可以用于海洋灾害监测预警;为海洋和大气数值模式提供准确的初始场和同化源,改进模式预报精度;为研究全球气候变化提供有力的观测依据。     

风浪和海洋飞沫对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响

基于埃克曼理论,本文将波致应力和飞沫应力引入到海-气边界层的界面应力中,来研究海表面风浪和海洋飞沫对海-气边界层动量交换的影响,并得到修改后的埃克曼模型的理论解。波致应力是由风浪谱和波增长函数估计,并得到在中低风速下,波致应力、飞沫应力与湍流应力相比,对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响非常小。当风速高于25米/秒时,海洋飞沫通过飞沫应力对海-气界面应力的作用远高于波致应力,以至于波致应力可以忽略。海表面拖曳系数在高风速下,随着风速的增大而减小。通过采用风浪谱的不同波龄,得到海洋飞沫的产生会导致海-气边界层风速的增加。最后,理论解与现场的观察数据进行了对比。对比后的数据表明,在中高风速下,飞沫对海-气边界层的影响远大于表面风浪。     

Determination of wind roughness characteristics based on an underwater image of the sea surface

The opportunities of diagnosing wind roughness with the help of underwater vision systems have been investigated. The model of the rough sea surface image observed from under water under conditions of natural illumination has been developed. It has been shown that the statistical processing of the image of a solar path which is formed as a result of light refraction at randomly irregular air-water interface allows one to define not only the slope variance and the curvature variance of the surface, but also the coefficient of spatial correlation of slopes. The algorithms for defining of characteristics of wind roughness on the basis of images of underwater solar path and the results of their testing using the data of numerical and natural experiments are given. It was found that waves of very small amplitude images with high contrast near borders of the Snell’s circle (the underwater image of the sky).     

Numerical simulation of nonlinear dispersive waves propagating over a submerged bar by IB–VOF model

It is a good test for a numerical model to simulate progressive waves propagating over a submerged bar with a relatively high ratio of slopes. In this paper, the combined IB–VOF model is used to predict nonlinear dispersive waves propagating over a submerged bar with both slopes of 1:2. The predicted free surface elevations are compared with the experimental data and numerical results presented by other researchers. The comparison shows that the IB–VOF model is able to provide satisfactory wave profiles in the shallow water with strong nonlinear effects and in the wave transmitted region with strong wave dispersion in particular. Moreover, the wave evolution behind the submerged bar is described in detail, including the spatial wave profile modulation, spectral analysis of the time-series waves, flow velocity and pressure fields, and kinetic energy distribution. The effect of fluid viscosity on the numerical simulations is also studied, and it is found that the effect on the wave evolution considered in this paper is not significant. Finally, the hydrodynamic force acting on the bar is calculated using the IB–VOF model.     

Turbulent structure in water under laboratory wind waves

The structure of the turbulent boundary layer underneath laboratory wind waves was studied by using a combination of a high-sensitivity thermometer array with a two-component sonic flowmeter. The temperature fluctuations are used to detect movements of water parcels, with temperature as a passive quantity. The turbulence energy was dominant in the frequency range (0.01 0.1 Hz), which was much smaller than the wind-wave frequency (2 5 Hz), and in which the turbulence was anisotropic. There was a frequency range (0.2 2 Hz for velocity, 0.2 5 Hz for temperature fluctuation) where the turbulence was isotropic and had a –5/3 slope in the energy spectrum. These points are the same as those in previous works. However, by analyses of the time series by using a variable-interval time-averaging technique (VITA), it has been found that conspicuous events in this main turbulence energy band are the downward bursting from the vicinity of the water surface. Thus the structure of the water layer underneath the wind waves has characters which are similar to the familiar turbulent boundary layer over a rough solid wall, as already conceived. It has been found that, at the same time, the turbulence energy can be related to quantities of the wind waves (the root mean squared water level fluctuation and the wave peak frequency), for different wind and wave conditions. That is, the turbulence underneath the wind waves develops under a close coupling with the wind waves.     

The Effect of Internal Gravity Waves on Fluctuations in Meteorological Parameters of the Atmospheric Boundary Layer

Variations in the intensity of turbulence during wave activity in the stable atmospheric boundary layer over a homogeneous steppe surface have been analyzed. Eight wave activity episodes recorded with a Doppler sodar in August 2015 at the Tsimlyansk Scientific Station of the Obukhov Institute of Atmospheric Physics have been studied. These episodes include seven trains of Kelvin–Helmholtz waves and one train of buoyancy waves. Variations in the rms deviation of the vertical wind-velocity component, the temperature structure parameter, and vertical heat and momentum fluxes have been estimated for each episode of wave activity. It has been found that Kelvin–Helmholtz waves slightly affect the intensity of turbulence, while buoyancy waves cause the temperature structure parameter and the vertical fluxes to increase by more than an order of magnitude.