On the possibility of biphase parametrization for wave transformation in the coastal zone

Based on experimental data, we study the possibility of parametrizing the spatial variation in the phase shift (biphase) between the first and second nonlinear harmonics of wave motion during wave transformation over an inclined bottom in the coastal zone. It is revealed that the biphase values vary in the range [–π/2, π/2]. Biphase variations rigorously follow fluctuations in amplitudes of the first and second harmonics and the periodicity of energy exchange between them. Wave breaking influences the biphase value, retaining its variations in the negative domain in the range [–π/2, 0]. The formula applied in modern practice to calculate the biphase, which depends on the Ursell number, is incorrect for calculating the biphase for wave evolution in the coastal zone, because it does not take into account periodic energy exchange between the nonlinear harmonics. We propose a linear approximation of the biphase values from the size of the ratio of the current distance to the coast to the possible spacial duration of the exchange period, which is determined by the dispersion relation. We reveal the dependence of biphase variations on the wave transformation scenario and demonstrate the possibility of constructing a separate parameterization of the biphase for each scenario. Our research and the obtained biphase parameterizations can be used to simulate the sea state in the coastal zone, as well as in problems of predicting the development of coasts under the impact of storm waves.     

Calculations of wave transformation across the surf zone

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

透空式防波堤周围的非线性波浪传播的数值模拟

对非线形波浪在透空式防波堤周围的波浪变形进行了数值模拟,在Boussinesq波浪方程中加入与透空建筑物有关的新的耗散项,从而界定了透空建筑物引起的部分反射和透射,波浪折射衍射的传播过程通过控制方程求解。波浪控制方程通过有限差分方法求解。模型应用于模拟波浪经过具有部分反射的群桩式透空结构,结果表明透空式防波堤可以有效地衰减波浪,是重力式结构的一种替代形式。     

珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。     

Flow resistance in the coastal zone

The apparent bed roughness, the roughness value experienced by a mean flow outside the wave-boundary layer, is deduced from the physical bed roughness and the wave–current interaction mechanism. Both the physical bed roughness and the wave–current interaction are described by a (combination of) model(s). Modelling of the apparent bed roughness leads to realistic results, however, the final results are rather sensitive to the particular choice of these models. Four bed form models and two wave–current interaction models were implemented in a 1-DV flow model to calculate near-bed velocities. A comparison between measured and predicted velocities shows that reasonable results can be obtained in this way. A constant bed roughness of 0.1 m, however, leads to even better results at this site during all conditions. This can be explained by the reversed influence of the form roughness and the wave–current interaction on the apparent bed roughness value for varying wave conditions.     

Spectral wave transformation model for simulating refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting coastal structures

On the basis of the wave action balance equation which incorporates refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave-current interaction, a directional spectral wave transformation model WABED is developed for predicting the irregular wave refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting structures in coastal regions. In the model, diffraction is taken into account by introducing a term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave equation, and reflection is calculated through a back-marching numerical approach at the reflecting boundary. Two experimental data sets are used to examine the performance of present model with regard to wave characteristics around reflecting coastal structures. One is from a physical experiment at idealized inlet with parallel jetties, while the other is from a laboratory study on a coastal project of the concave breakwater. Reasonably good agreements are found for both cases, revealing the applicability of the present model for predicting combined wave refraction-diffraction processes with strongly reflecting coastal structures.     

Influence of processes of nonlinear transformations of waves in the coastal zone on the height of breaking waves

Using data from laboratory, field, and numerical experiments, we investigated regularities in changes in the relative limit height of breaking waves (the breaking index) from peculiarities of nonlinear wave transformations and type of wave breaking. It is shown that the value of the breaking index depends on the relative part of the wave energy in the frequency range of the second nonlinear harmonic. If this part is more than 35%, then the breaking index can be taken as a constant equal to 0.6. These waves are spilling breaking waves, asymmetric on the horizontal axis, and are almost symmetric on the vertical axis. If this part of the energy is less than 35%, then the breaking index increases with increasing energy in the frequency range of the second harmonic. These waves are plunging breaking waves, asymmetric on the vertical axis, and are almost symmetric on the horizontal axis. It is revealed that the breaking index depends on the asymmetry of waves on the vertical axis, determined by the phase shift between the first and second nonlinear harmonic (biphase). It is shown that the relation between the amplitudes of the second and first nonlinear harmonics for an Ursell number less than 1 corresponds to Stokes’ second-order wave theory. The empirical dependences of the breaking index on the parameters of nonlinear transformation of waves are proposed.     

珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究

为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。     

Morphogenetic classification of the Arctic coastal zone

Arctic coastal evolution is the result of interactions between exogenic and endogenic processes. In the arctic region, this evolution differs from that in other areas of the worlds oceans as a result of interactions between modern wave and ice factors, and the influences of glaciations and large-scale sea level changes in the past. Geologic structure, origin and development determine contemporary relief morphology. Morphology appears to be the most significant relief characteristic, but it is controlled by a set of interactive processes active over long periods. Our approach, in which a multitude of interacting factors are simultaneously analyzed and determined, could be called morphogenetic. We consider marine coasts and offshore zones (shelf) as a unit, and providing a general explanation for their evolution. The classification presented here is based upon the general approach given in the Science and Implementation Plan of Arctic Coastal Dynamics (ACD), a project of the International Arctic Science Committee and the International Permafrost Association. Our classification extends beyond the morphological ACD classification to include a morphogenetic classification.     

海岸带综合管理的信息需求

1 信息在ICZM中的效应 海岸带综合管理(ICZM)不同于传统的管理方式,它促进了人们对每岸带特有的自然资源及其在人类各种活动影响下可持续利用的了解,丰富管理者的知识。同时,ICZM通过综合环境、社会和经济信息,使海岸带资源系统的综合利用达到最优化。 在ICZM的实践中,如果缺乏必要的信息,将被视为影响ICZM进程的障碍因素。此外,ICZM的特点之一,它不是对资源利用的直接管     

Numerical study for vegetation effects on coastal wave propagation by using nonlinear Boussinesq model

The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range.     

Dimethylsulfide in coastal zone of the East China Sea

Dimethylsulfide (DMS) in seawater were observed four times from February 1993 to August 1994 along a fixed section (PN line) in the East China Sea. The DMS concentrations showed remarkable temporal and spatial variations. The DMS concentrations were generally higher in the upper euphotic layer of the continental shelf zone in summer. The spatial variation, however, was more pronounced even in well mixed winter water, where the concentration of DMS varied widely from 3 to 106 ng-S/l in the continental shelf zone while the salinity was vertically almost uniform. This means that DMS in seawater is rapidly produced and decomposed with a time scale less than one month in the water column. The largest value of 376 ng-S/l was obtained at 5 m depth near the mouth of Changjiang River in August 1994. The mean concentrations in the surface 30 m layer in the continental shelf zone were 21, 54, 126 and 57 ng-S/l in February, October, June and August, respectively, which were about twice as large as those in the Kuroshio region. The mean fluxes of DMS from the East China Sea to the atmosphere are estimated to be 49 g-S/m²/day in winter and 194 g-S/m²/day in summer in the continental shelf zone, and to be 32 and 107 g-S/m²/day in the Kuroshio region.     

Situation of integrated coastal zone management in Central America: Experiences of the IUCN wetlands and coastal zone conservation program

Central American coastal zones possess extensive scenic and geographical wealth as well as great biological diversity. These coasts maintain 21.6% of the region’s population and produce at least US$ 750 million alone in fishing activities that provide work and sustenance for more than 450 000 persons in the region. Eight percent of the world’s mangroves are located in Central America, as well as the second largest corral reef barrier on the planet. A good representation of the region’s natural heritage is conserved in approximately 110 protected areas. Due to these special conditions, at least 50% of Central America’s coastal zones is devoted to tourism, one of the three primary economic activities in four of the region’s countries. Integrated coastal zone management (ICZM) in this region has been limited by information gaps, restricted technical and financial capacity, and strong sectoralism. Some recent projects, both governmental and supported by NGOs, offer new experience and lessons on regional ICZM. These initiatives have been backed at the ministerial and presidential level by a large number of political agreements within the framework of the ‘alliance for sustainable development’ (ALIDES).     

Biological indicators in the Caribbean coastal zone and their role in integrated coastal management

Caribbean coastal ecosystems are increasingly being threatened by natural and anthropogenic factors. The scale of these factors is at local, national, regional and global levels. Threats include the effects of fisheries and extraction, eutrophication, siltation, and pollution as well as global climate events such as El Niño and global climate change. Integrated coastal management (ICM) should clearly demonstrate the adverse effects of environmental impacts, thus justifying the need for mitigation and should evaluate the success of management efforts. ICM requires robust indicators that gauge the ‘health’ of the coast in relation to environmental, social and economic activities. Biological indicators (bioindicators) offer a signal of the biological condition in an ecosystem. Using bioindicators as an early warning of pollution or degradation in an ecosystem can help sustain critical resources. Biological indicators in the Caribbean are focused around particular ecosystems, especially coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangrove forests and include a range of biological parameters relating to particular species, groups of species and biological processes. The use of these indicators is critically reviewed and the presence or absence of a relevant framework for their use in Caribbean ICM programs is discussed.     

非线性波消波及波场分布研究

本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。     

Three-dimensional circulation in the NW Africa coastal transition zone

High-resolution data collected southeast of the Canary Islands during late winter 2006 are analyzed to describe the hydrography and three-dimensional circulation in the coastal transition zone off NW Africa. The data are optimally interpolated over a regular grid, the geostrophic velocity field is calculated and the Q-vector formulation of the omega equation is used to compute the quasi-geostrophic (QG) mesoscale vertical velocity. The coastal transition zone is divided into upwelling, frontal and offshore regions with distinct physical and dynamic characteristics. The upwelling region is characterized by cold and weakly stratified waters flowing towards the equator, with a poleward undercurrent of approximately 0.05 m s⁻¹ over the continental slope. The frontal region exhibits a southwestward baroclinic jet associated with cross-shore raising isopycnals; the jet transport is close to 1 Sv, with maximum velocities of 0.18 m s⁻¹ at surface decreasing to 0.05 m s⁻¹ at 300 db. Vertical sections across the frontal region show the presence of deep eddies probably generated by the topographic blocking of the islands to the southward current, as well as much shallower eddies that likely have arisen as instabilities of the baroclinic upwelling jet. The QG mesoscale vertical velocity field is patchy, estimated to range from −18 to 12 m day⁻¹, with the largest absolute values corresponding to an anticyclonic eddy located south of Fuerteventura Island. These values are significantly larger than estimates for other vertical velocities: diapycnal vertical velocities associated with mixing in the frontal region (a few meters per day), and wind-induced vertical velocities (non-linear Ekman pumping arising from the interaction between the wind stress and the background vorticity, maximum values of a few meters per day; linear Ekman pumping due to the divergence of Ekman transport, a fraction of a meter per day; or the coastal constraint in the upwelling region, about 0.7 m day⁻¹). However, the patchiness in both the QG mesoscale vertical velocity and the non-linear Ekman pumping velocity cause their integrated vertical transports to be one order of magnitude smaller than either coastal Ekman transport (0.08 Sv), integrated linear Ekman pumping (−0.05 Sv) or diapycnal transfer (about 0.1–0.2 Sv). The pattern of the near-surface fluorescence field is a good indicator of these different contributions, with large homogeneous values in the coastal upwelling region and a patchy structure associated with the offshore mesoscale structures.     

Investigation of transformations of barotropic tides in the coastal zone

Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we perform the numerical investigation of transformations of a barotropic diurnal tide in the process of its motion from the deepwater region of the sea into the region of continental slope and shelf zone at any angle to the coast line. For a linear profile of the bottom of the continental slope and shelf, we establish dependences of the amplitudes and velocities of waves on the direction of propagation of the tidal wave and the latitude of the place. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Electronic atlas of the Russian Arctic coastal zone

A set of digital maps including geology, Quaternary sediments, landscapes, engineering-geological, vegetation, geocryological and the series of regional sources have been selected to characterize the Russian Arctic coast. Based on this data, new maps of engineering geocryological zoning and zoning of the coast with respect to the intensity of exogenous geological processes and risk of technogenic impacts have been generated at the scales of 1:4,000,000–1:8,000,000. These maps are a tool to assess the impact of industry on the Arctic coast of the country.