Studying the sea surface slopes using an array of wave gauge sensors

The deviations of the marine surface slope spectra (measured using an array of wave gauge sensors) from the theoretical estimates obtained using the linear spectral model of the wave field are analyzed. It has been indicated that the average measured full slope spectra (the sum of the slope component spectra in the orthogonal directions) is higher than the theoretical estimates by 6% at frequencies from the surface wave spectral peak (f _m ) to 4.5 f _m . The difference between the measured and theoretical estimates of the full slope spectrum rapidly increases at frequencies of f < f _m . At f _m ≈ 0.75 f _m , the average measured full slope spectrum is higher than the theoretical estimate by a factor of more than 5.     

Measurement of wind waves by means of a buoy accelerometer wave gauge

An accelerometer buoy wave gauge developed in the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian Academy of Sciences is described. This allows measurement of acceleration and the sea surface elevation in the system of reference connected with a buoy. The integral and frequency spectral characteristics of waves can be computed from the records of the wave gauge signal. The use of a buoy accelerometer at sea provides a possibility to derive effective information on the wind waves.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

基于雷达水位计的海浪波高信息提取算法及其精度评价

为了证明雷达水位计波高测量的有效性,基于PY30-1石油平台上的雷达水位计海面高度变化观测数据,开展了雷达水位计海浪波高信息提取算法研究。基于所发展算法提取海浪波高信息,与同一平台上的C波段测波雷达观测数据及平台附近的浮标观测数据进行了比对分析。结果表明,雷达水位计数据提取的海面波高数据与C波段测波雷达及浮标测量数据一致性较好,二者标准偏差分别为0.006和0.008 m,均方根误差(RMS)分别为0.55和0.60 m。波高小于4 m时一致性优于波高大于4 m的一致性,波高大于4 m时水位计提取的波高偏小。因此,雷达水位计可作为波高观测的重要数据源之一。     

A method of determining dominant wave direction from multiparameter hydrological gauge measurements and its application

Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.     

单晶固体中正电子波函数的计算

介绍了正电子波函数计算的两种基本方法——有限差分方法(FDM)与平面波方法(PW).并以单晶Si为例,计算出正电子的波函数,从而计算出正电子在Si中的密度分布;由该正电子密度,进一步计算出了正电子在Si中的体寿命.计算结果与我们最近的实验结果(220 ps)符合得很好.最后,探讨了这两种方法各自的优缺点.     

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.     

Transfer matrix of linear water wave scattering over a stepwise bottom

For a two-dimensional linear wave scattering problem, a new transfer matrix incorporating evanescent modes is developed, from which the solution of a scattered wave field over a stepwise topography is directly obtained. The present method is shown to be capable of solving practical scattering problems with complicated bedforms, for which application of the conventional methods has been fairly limited. Highly accurate numerical solutions for sufficiently large systems are presented, and the computational efficiency of the present method is demonstrated. The interaction of bars in periodic beds is examined, and changes in the reflection coefficient with increasing number of bars are illustrated.     

Hilbert变换在海浪波高与周期联合分布函数中的应用

Longuet-Higgins(1983)[1]导出了波高与周期的联合分布函数,此分布函数虽然与实际数据符合良好,但存在很大的缺陷,如:由此分布函数得出的波高分布为形式较为复杂的非Rayleigh分布,很难应用于工程计算中。孙孚(1988a)[2]应用射线理论导出了一种波高与周期联合分布,虽然弥补了Longuet-Higgins的一些缺陷,但推导过程过于复杂。本文在窄谱假定下通过应用Hilbert变换方法得出新的分布函数并与前两者比较,表明Hilbert变换的方法不但简便,而且完全克服Longuet-Higgins的不足,可以方便的应用于工程计算中。本文也为Hilbert变换的方法在工程中的应用提供了理论依据。     

A new ordinary differential equation for the evaluation of the frequency-domain Green function

Clément (2013) derived a second order ordinary differential equation (ODE) satisfied by the free-surface Green function in the frequency domain. Since then, similar ODEs for the gradient of the Green function have been developed. Unfortunately, all these ODEs degenerate at zero frequency. Therefore, it is not possible to initialize the numerical solution of these ODEs from this zero frequency. Alternative methods based on the shifting of the initial condition to frequencies strictly greater than zero have then been developed.The present paper describes an alternative approach to address this issue. It involves a new function which is the solution of a modified ODE which can be solved from the zero frequency.Finally, comparisons with evaluations of the Green function using the classical direct integration method are provided. They show that the new ODE can provide accurate estimates of the Green function.     

Testing and verifying the wind wave model with an optimized source function

With the purpose of revealing the actual advantages of the new source function that was earlier proposed in [5] for use in numerical wind wave models, its testing and verification was carried out by means of modification of the WAM (Cycle-4) model. The verification was performed on the basis of a comparison of the results of wave simulation for a given wind field with the buoy observation data obtained in three oceanic regions. In the Barents Sea, this kind of comparison was made for wave observations from a single buoy with an interval of 6 hours for a period of 3 years. In two regions of the North Atlantic, the comparison was performed for 3 buoys in both regions for observation periods of 30 days with an interval of 1 hour. Estimations of the simulation accuracy were obtained for a series of wind wave parameters, and they were compared with the original and modified WAM model. Advantages of the modified model consisting of the enhancement of the calculation speed by 20–25% and a 1.5- to 2-fold increase in the simulation accuracy for the significant wave height and the mean period were proved.     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

Coefficient of horizontal eddy diffusion of a tracer on the water surface as a function of the wave age

A relationship between the statistical parameters of horizontal diffusion and the parameters of the energy-containing part of the frequency spectrum of sea-surface elevations is found depending on the wave age Ω and the ratio between the wind speed at 10 m and the phase velocity of the peak of a wave. It has been observed in [1–7] that the diffusion coefficient K(r) of a patch of size r increases as r ^β, where 1.15 < β < 4/3, and the patch area S(t) increases with time as t ^γ, where 2 < γ < 3. As was calculated in [15], in the energy-containing part of the elevation frequency spectrum, S(ω) ～ ω^?n , where n = 13/3 for young waves with Ω > 2, n = 4 for waves with 1.2 < ψ < 2, and n = 11/3 for developed waves with 0.83 < Ω < 1.2. It is found that β = (n + 1)/4 and γ = 8/(7 ? n). These relations explain the entire set of observed exponents: β = 4/3 and γ = 3 for young waves and β = 1.15 and γ = 2.34 for large sizes (up to 1000 km) and times (up to a month) when it is found here that β = 7/6 and γ = 2.4.     

非线性波消波及波场分布研究

本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。     

Predictions of the hydrodynamic performance of the wave rotor wave energy device

This paper provides a linear solution for the Wave Rotor, a wave energy device that comprises two parallel counter rotating cylinders in orbital motion. Theoretical results are obtained for the radiated waves generated by the device, and for its efficiency. Comparisons with earlier measurements of radiated waves show very promising agreement.     

Study on far field wave patterns and their characteristics of Havelock form green function

A new mathematical integral representation including five integrals about the far field wave shape function of Havelock form translating-pulsating source is obtained by performing variable substitution. Constant-phase curves and propagation wave patterns are investigated by applying stationary phase analysis method to the new representation. Some findings are summarized as follows: (1) when 0< <0.25 (where is the Strouhal number), three types of stationary phase curves corresponding to three propagation wave patterns such as fan wave pattern, inner V and outer V wave patterns, are found in the integral representation. (2) When >0.25, besides three types of wave patterns such as a ring-faning wave pattern, a fan wave pattern and an inner V wave pattern, a new one called parallel wave pattern is also found which not only exists in the integrals about the ring-fan wave and fan wave, but also in the integrals whose interval is 0, . In addition, Characteristics about these parallel waves such as mathematical expressions, existence conditions, propagation directions and wave lengths are obtained, and cancellation relationships between these parallel waves are stated, which certificates the fact that there are no parallel waves existing in the far field.     

南海海面风、浪场的EOF分析

在气候分析中常常借助自然正交展开方法分析气象要素的时空分布特征,而对于海洋研究,由于过去观测手段的限制,很难获得较长时间序列和较大空间系列的观测资料,因此像气候分析中常用的经验正交函数(EOF)方法在海洋要素的分析中较少使用.卫星遥感技术的发展为海洋学研究提供了丰富的空间分布均一、时间序列较长的观测资料.本文根据TOPEX/Poseidon(T/P)卫星高度计获得的海面风、浪信息,利用气候分析中常用的EOF分析方法,分析了南海海面风、浪场的时空模态特征.这一分析结果可以很好地反映南海海面风、浪场间的关系,从而为海浪场的经验预报和分析提供参考.     

畸形波形成的海浪要素特征数值分析

从典型的畸形波事件"新年波"出发,以ECMWF中期再分析风场作为驱动风场,采用WAVEWATCHⅢ海浪数值预报模式模拟畸形波发生海域的海浪场。通过对模拟的海浪要素分析表明,畸形波发生点在发生时刻的风速、波高、波陡处于极大值,波浪周期较长,谱峰频率、方向展角处于极小值;畸形波发生点在发生时刻的海浪谱是单峰谱,谱型尖窄,大部分波浪能量都集中在很小的频率范围内,分布在一个小的范围内,传播方向比较集中。     

Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.     

海浪特性及其传播变形研究新进展

综述第27届国家海岸工程会议（ICCE2000）上有关海浪特性及其传播变形研究的新进展，内容包括海浪的时域特性，海浪的特征，海浪的传播变形和波浪的破碎，反射等四部分。