Atlas of ocean tidal charts and maps,Part I: The semidiurnal principal lunar tide M2

Abstract

In this paper the author presents the NSWC ocean tide model of the semidiurnal principal lunar (M₂) tide in an atlas of ocean tidal charts and maps. The model is the computer result of a unique combination of mathematical and empirical techniques, which was introduced, extensively tested, and evaluated by Schwiderski (1978a, 1980a, b, 1983e). The computed M₂ amplitudes and phases are tabulated along with all specially labeled empirical input data on a 1° × 1 ° grid system in 42° × 71° overlapping charts covering the whole oceanic globe. Corresponding global and arctic corange and cotidal maps are included to provide a quick overview of the major tidal phenomena. Significant qualitative and quantitative features are explained and discussed for proper application. In particular, the charted harmonic constants may be used to compute instantaneous M₂ ocean tides with an accuracy of better than 5 cm any time and anywhere in the open oceans. Limitations of this accuracy in coastal waters and border seas are mentioned.

The following four sections of this paper deal with brief reviews, detailed evaluations, and simple improvements of general and special applications of the NSWC ocean tide model. In spite of the numerous and diverse applications with potential possibilities of erroneous interpretations, the results are gratifying without exceptions. For instance, it is concluded that the computed low‐degree spherical harmonic coefficients of the M₂ ocean tide model agree with recent empirical satellite solutions as closely as one could wish for within the elaborated nonmodel error bounds. Detailed computations of all significant tidal energy terms produced the following noteworthy results: The rate of supplied tidal energy of 3.50Z10¹² Watt matches Cartwright's (1977) estimate of 3.5Z10¹² Watt. The rate of energy loss by bottom friction and displacement over the shelves is 1.50Z10¹² Watt, which fits into Miller's (1966) estimated range of (1.4–1.7)Z10¹² Watt, with a clear bias toward his preferred lower bound. Perhaps most remarkably, the computed range (0.41–0.60)Z10¹² Watt for the rate of deep bottom friction work done by the unresolved fluctuating (internal or baroclinic) currents contains in its center Munk's (1966) estimate of 0.5Z10¹² Watt and lies safely below Wunsch's (1975) extreme upper bound of 0.7Z10¹² Watt, which both authors derived for the rate of energy needed to sustain the internal tidal circulations. As is commonly believed, the results substantiate the fact that the total rate of ocean eddy dissipation (into heat) by the averaged (surface or barotropic) currents and their fluctuating comotions is negligible within three significant figures. Finally, the total tidal energy budget of the oceans is perfectly balanced in realistic terms. Budget deficits in earlier tide models were traced to the following tacit assumptions: The ocean bottom tide is doing positive work on the oceans against the ocean tide. In fact, the bottom displacement work by the ocean tide against the bottom tide is an energy loss at the rate of 1.64Z10¹² Watt. The transfer of G. I. Taylor's quadratic bottom friction term from the Irish Sea to the global oceans without accounting for major differences in area resolution scales is directly responsible for significant budget deficits in semiempirical estimates. In contrast, the hydrodynamically more consistent and realistic linear law of bottom friction encountered no serious transplantation difficulties.     

Tsunami generation,propagation, and run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

In this work we extend a high-order Boussinesq-type (finite difference) model, capable of simulating waves out to wavenumber times depth kh < 25, to include a moving sea-bed, for the simulation of earthquake- and landslide-induced tsunamis. The extension is straight forward, requiring only an additional term within the kinematic bottom condition. As first test cases we simulate linear and nonlinear surface waves generated from both positive and negative impulsive bottom movements. The computed results compare well against earlier theoretical, numerical, and experimental values. Additionally, we show that the long-time (fully nonlinear) evolution of waves resulting from an upthrusted bottom can eventually result in true solitary waves, consistent with theoretical predictions. It is stressed, however, that the nonlinearity used far exceeds that typical of geophysical tsunamis in the open ocean. The Boussinesq-type model is then used to simulate numerous tsunami-type events generated from submerged landslides, in both one and two horizontal dimensions. The results again compare well against previous experiments and/or numerical simulations. The new extension compliments recently developed run-up capabilities within this approach, and as demonstrated, the model can therefore treat tsunami events from their initial generation, through their later propagation, and final run-up phases. The developed model is shown to maintain reasonable computational efficiency, and is therefore attractive for the simulation of such events, especially in cases where dispersion is important.     

Stoneley waves,Lopez Island noise,and deep sea noise from 1 to 5 Hz

The Lopez Island OBS Intercomparison Experiment provided a data set of sufficient spatial density to allow study of the propagation of shot-generated Stoneley waves as well as ambient background noise. The Stoneley waves were observed propagating at velocities of 20 to 50 m s^-1, Phase velocities were determined by fitting peaks in the frequency wave number spectrum. Group velocities were calculated by narrowly filtering the data and determining the arrival time of the peak in the frequency packet. Particle displacement plots illustrate the surface wave character of these waves. The analysis of the ambient background noise failed to produce a clearly defined dispersion curve yet it did allow bounds to be placed on the phase velocities (20 to 50 m s^-1). The data were modeled using eleven layers overlying a half-space. The results indicated that the top 7 m of the sediment column at Lopez Island is best approximated by two zones. In the upper zone there is a fairly rapid change of shear velocity with depth. This zone overlies a region in which the shear velocity gradient is much lower. Deep ocean background noise recorded by University of Washington ocean bottom seismometers was also examined. Although insufficient data precluded any velocity analysis, definite similarities exist between these data and noise data observed at Lopez Island.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1174.     

Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand

Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter.

The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather.

The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer.

The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess.     

Response of water column to strong wind forcing,southern Brazilian inner shelf: Implications for sand ridge formation

The result of two sequential oceanographic stations of 36 hours each in the area of sand ridges are presented. One station was located in the trough between two sand ridges and the other was at the crest of a sand ridge. At these stations salinity and temperature of the sea water, currents, winds, waves, and barometric pressure were measured each hour.During the observations, a cold front passed; this generated westerly winds that grew in speed from 24 to 52 km h^?1. The average height of the wind generated waves grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m and their periods increased from 7 to 10 s, and the speed of the northeast directed surface current increased from 40 to 82 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northeast) increased from 26 to 34 cm s^?1.After the cold front had passed, the wind backed to the southeast and decreased in speed from 26 to zero km h^?1. The surface current in a northwest direction decreased from 29 to 8 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northwest) decreased from 22 to 3 cm s^?1. Later, swells from the southeast appeared and their periods increased from 5 to 9 s and their heights grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m. After 3 hours, the speeds of the surface and bottom currents increased from 8 to 72 cm s^?1 and 3 to 62 cm s^?1 respectively.This cold front induced strong winds and storm-wave currents able to erode sediments (assuming a threshold velocity of 20 cm s^?1) and transport them in a north-northeast direction.The origin and the maintenance of these sand ridges is thought to be a function of sediments eroded from troughs and piled up at ridge crests during a storm condition. Some eroded sediments are transported north of Verga lighthouse where they are deposited on a smooth bottom.     

Characteristics of resuspended sediment from Georges Bank collected with a sediment trap

A sediment trap was deployed 3 m from the bottom at a water depth of 62 m on the southern flank of Georges Bank (41°02·2′N, 67°33·5′W) from 30 September 1978 to 10 March 1979 to qualitatively determine the size of sediments resuspended from the bottom by winter storms and to determine if seasonal changes in the phytoplankton could be observed in the trapped sediment.Bulk X-ray analyses of the trapped sediment showed layers of distinctly different textures preserved in the collection vessel. The median grain size of sampled layers ranged from 2·7 to 6·5 φ (fine sand to silt), but all layers contained a pronounced mode in the 3 φ (fine sand) range. Nine layers containing relatively large amounts of sand were present. The sand content was 75% in the coarest layers and about 32% in the fine layers. The median grain size of bottom sediments at the deployment site was considerably coarser than the trap samples, although the dominant grain size was also 3 φ.Average bottom-current speeds during the deployment period were about 30 cm s^?1 with a range of 10 to 50 cm s^?1. Bottom stress, computed from the observed currents and waves, suggest that 11 storms caused sufficient stress to resuspend 3 φ-sized sediments, in good agreement with the nine layers of relatively coarse sediments collected in the trap. Surface waves had to be included in the calculation of bottom stress because the bottom currents alone were insufficient to cause the resuspension of 3 φ-sized sediment.The trapped sediments contain numerous diatoms and coccoliths that are typical of late fall and winter assemblages. No clear seasonal difference in the flora was noted among sampled layers, probably due to the large influx of resuspended material and a reduced primary flux during this period. An undescribed species of Thalassiosira (G. Fryxell, personal communication), and siliceous scales of unknown systematic position were observed at all levels.     

Numerical experiment on <Emphasis Type="Italic">Kyucho</Emphasis> around the Tango Peninsula induced by Typhoon 0406

A numerical experiment using a three dimensional level model was performed to clarify the mechanism generating a strong coastal current, Kyucho, induced by the passage of Typhoon 0406 around the tip of the Tango Peninsula, Japan in June 2004. Wind stress accompanied by Typhoon 0406 was applied to the model ocean with realistic bottom topography and stratification condition. The model well reproduced the characteristics of Kyucho observed by Kumaki et al. (2005), i.e., the strong alongshore current with maximum velocity of 53 cm s⁻¹ and its propagation along the peninsula with propagation speed of about 0.6 m s⁻¹ one half-day after the typhoon’s passage. Coastal-trapped waves (CTW) accompanied by downwelling were induced along the northwest coast of the peninsula by the alongshore wind stress. The energy density flux due to the CTW flowed eastward along the coast, and indicated scattering of the CTW around the eastern coast of the peninsula. In addition, significant near-inertial internal gravity waves were also caused in the offshore region from the west of the Noto Peninsula to the north of the Tango Peninsula by the typhoon’s passage. The energy flux density of the near-inertial fluctuations flowed southward off the Fukui coast, and part of the energy flux was trapped on the tip of the Tango Peninsula, flowing with the coast on its right. It was found that the strong current, Kyucho, at the northeastern tip of the Tango Peninsula was generated by superposition of the near-inertial internal gravity waves and subinertial CTW.     

Depth dependence of noise resulting from ship traffic and wind

Under conditions of distantly generated noise, the noise level is found to decrease with depth in the mid-northeastern Pacific. These data show a decrease in noise level greater than 25 dB between critical depth and the ocean bottom. A result of this decrease is that locally wind-generated noise can be detected on near-bottom receivers for wind speeds less than 10 kn. It is shown that the noise level generated form local sources such as wind and nearby shipping is almost independent of receiver depth. The differences in spectra shape between the distant shipping noise and wind-generated noise and the low noise levels detected near the ocean bottom allow the measurement in the frequency band at 200-500 Hz of local wind noise level for wind speeds less than 10 kn     

基于射线理论的海脊俘获波机制

虽然众多现场实测资料和数值模拟均表明海脊可以俘获海啸波并引导其传播至远场地区,带来严重的灾害,但少有研究阐述其产生机理。本文基于射线理论,推导了指数型海脊上波浪传播轨迹的理论解,并提出了震源位于海脊顶部的海啸被海脊完全俘获的条件。基于该俘获条件进一步给出了海脊对海啸俘获效率的表达式,用以评估海啸中被海脊俘获影响至远场的能量占海啸总能量的比例。     

次重力波对宽刈幅高度计海表面高度观测的影响

次重力波(Infragravity Wave,IGW)是一种频率较低(0.05～0.005 Hz),波长较长(约10 km)的表面重力波。由IGW引起的海表面高度变化会被宽刈幅干涉高度计SWOT(Surface Water and Ocean Topography,SWOT)卫星观测到,因此在使用SWOT观测的海表面高度来反演中尺度、次中尺度大洋环流时,IGW是一种重要的误差来源。根据数值模型模拟的全球IGW时空分布特征,本文以IGW最为活跃的东北太平洋和欧洲西北陆架附近大西洋为研究海域,估算了上述海域由IGW所引起的海表面高度变化,并将计算结果与SWOT Simulator模拟的轨道噪声(±5 cm)比较,首次定量地估算了IGW在SWOT观测海表面高度时的干扰程度。研究表明,IGW所引起的厘米量级的海表面高度变化在SWOT卫星观测海表面流场时是一种重要的,不可忽略的误差来源。在大西洋欧洲西北陆架海域,冬季IGW对海表面高度的贡献可达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的25%;然而,对于大陆架狭窄的美国西岸太平洋而言,由岸线产生的IGW将迅速传入深海海域,在广阔的范围内产生显著的"噪声"影响,在SWOT反演海表面流场时由IGW引起的误差将达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的15%。     

Distribution and morphology of large submarine sediment slides and slumps on Atlantic continental margins

Abstract

Numerous large sediment slides and slumps have been discovered and surveyed on the continental margins of Northwest Africa, Southwest Africa, Brazil (Amazon Cone), the Mediterranean, the Gulf of Mexico, and North America over the past 10 years. The mass movements are of two primary types: (1) translational slides, and (2) rotational slumps. Translational slides are characterized by a slide scar and a downslope zone of debris flows, after traveling in some areas for several hundreds of kilometers on slopes of less than 0.5°. Rotational slumps are bounded by steep scarps, but they do not involve large‐scale translation of sediments, although seismic records indicate disturbance in the down‐dropped block. Many of the slides and slumps have occurred in water depths greater than 2000 m on initial slopes of less than 1.5°. The largest slide so far discovered is off Spanish Sahara; in this case, the slide scar is 18,000 km² in area, at least 600 km³ in volume of translated sediments. No apparent consistent relationship has yet been observed between the presence of the slides and the sedimentary environment in which they occurred. The slides off Southwest Africa and Spanish Sahara occurred in pelagic sediments rich in planktonic organic matter. In contrast, the slides off North America, Senegal‐Mauritania, and Brazil (Amazon Cone) occurred in sediments containing a high percentage of terrigenous material from nearby landmasses. Large sediment slides have also occurred in pelagic sediments on isolated oceanic rises such as the Madeira Rise (East‐Central Atlantic) and the Ontong‐Java Plateau (Pacific), where sedimentation rates are less than 2 cm/1000 years. The failure mechanism of the slides initiated near the shelf edge can probably be explained by sediment overloading during low glacio‐eustatic sea level, which allowed rivers to debouch sediments directly onto the outer shelf or upper slope. Possible mechanisms of failure of the deepwater slides and slumps include earthquakes, undercutting of the slope by bottom currents, and changes in porewater pressures induced as a direct or indirect result of glacio‐eustatic changes in sea level.     

An overview and general results of the Lopez island OBS experiment

The purpose of the experiment was to determine the effects of coupling and bottom currents on ocean bottom seismometers. Twelve operational OBSs, three specially designed three-component systems, and a hydrophone were compared with each other. Unlike seismometers placed on hard rock at land stations, ocean bottom seismometers can be affected by soft sediments (which act as lossy mechanical springs) and by buoyancy. Coupling through soft sediments can modify the response to ground motion much as a low pass filter does, and high buoyancy tends to counteract this effect. These effects are observed in the Lopez data, which consist of signals from mechanical transient tests, cap shots, airgun pulses, and general background noise. The modification of response is pronounced for some instruments and barely noticeable in others. Instruments that stand high in the water relative to their base width tend to be susceptible to rocking motion that shows up as a mechanical cross coupling between horizontal and vertical motion. Correlation of Lopez results with coupling theory suggests that it is possible to design ocean bottom seismometers that will couple well to any sediment. Current levels at the Lopez site (<5 cm s^-1) were too small to produce noticeable effect on any of the instruments; however, the same design criteria that will minimize coupling problems will also lessen problems caused by ocean currents.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1171.     

Steric height trends at Ocean Station Papa in the Northeast Pacific Ocean

Abstract

We estimate secular changes in steric sea level in the northeast Pacific Ocean using the 27‐year time series of monthly hydrographic observations for Station PAPA (50°N, 145°W). Linear trends based on the entire data record suggest that steric heights relative to 1000 db are increasing at a rate of 0.93 mm/yr and that 67% of this increase is due to thermosteric changes at depths below 100 m; the smaller halosteric contribution to the steric trend appears to be confined to the upper 100 m. A trend of 0(1 mm/yr) is consistent with estimates of sea level rise based on coastal tide gauge records. However, a critical examination of the results indicates that sea level changes of such small magnitude would be masked by the large (1–10 cm) interannual variability of open ocean steric height. This is verified by recalculation of trends using abridged versions of the data set. We conclude that our trend estimates are still open to question and that the present 27‐year time series is too short to permit accurate resolution of possible climate‐induced changes in global sea level.     

Construction in the coastal zone: A potential use of waste materials

The Inner New York Bight, at the head of the Hudson shelf channel, has been the site for ocean disposal of various waste products since at least 1888. Natural channel-like bathymetry expressed in 1845 is today a series of hills rising to within 12 m (40 ft.) of the water surface superimposed upon a broad lobate mound. This topographic inversion created over the past nine decades is attributable to disposal of materials (soil, sand, and stone) of varying composition generated during construction in the New York metropolitan area. Data indicate approximately 765 · 10⁶ m³ (1 · 10⁹ yd³) of waste has been dumped in that region from 1888 to 1934. Isopach maps, sea-floor profiles, seismic records, and vibratory cores show much of the fill has remained in place in spite of bottom currents of approximately 25 cm/sec (0.5 knot) and a wave climate of H_s = 0.76 m (2.5 ft.); T = 5?15 sec. Man-made islands proposed for the inner continental shelf for siting power, port, or recreational facilities will use large volumes of stable material for core fill, which could be waste materials such as those described. Effective regional coastal-zone planning should recognize uses for past and future waste material as such practices would conserve sand and gravel resources for other high-volume needs (shoreline nourishment and protection and construction aggregate) and alleviate some of the site-selection problems in land disposal of waste.     

北印度洋半日潮波的数值模拟研究

基于FVCOM(Finite Volume Coast and Ocean Model)模型,建立北印度洋海域(31^°~102^°E,16^°S~31^°N)的M₂和S₂分潮潮波数值模式,研究北印度洋半日潮潮汐、潮流分布特征。对底摩擦系数进行数值试验,利用代价函数梯度下降法,得到分潮调和常数向量均方根偏差(RMSE)的变化曲线,逼近并确定最优的底摩擦系数。将采用该系数的模拟结果与TOPEX/Poseidon卫星高度计交叉点的调和常数数据、国际海道测量组织(IHO)及部分文献中的验潮站数据进行比较与验证,一致性较好。其中对比卫星数据的振幅偏差为2~4 cm、迟角偏差为7^°~8^°,与验潮站数据的振幅偏差为3~6 cm、迟角偏差为8^°~9^°。根据模拟结果,分析了北印度洋海域M₂和S₂分潮潮波传播特征和潮流椭圆的空间分布特征等。M₂分潮潮波在阿拉伯海南部有1个无潮点,在波斯湾内有2个无潮点,最大振幅超过80 cm;潮流在西北印度洋和孟加拉湾中部大多为顺时针旋转,其余海域大多为逆时针旋转;流速在阿拉伯海东北部、安达曼海、波斯湾和孟加拉湾北部较大,最大流速为160 cm/s,其他海域较小。S₂分潮的潮波传播特征、无潮点的位置和潮流椭圆的空间分布特征等都与M₂分潮类似,但潮波振幅和潮流流速等都相对M₂分潮较小。研究完善了北印度洋海域2个主要半日分潮M₂和S₂的整体特征。     

Physico‐chemical features of lake Ototoa,a sand‐dune lake in northern New Zealand

Lake Ototoa is a warm monomictic lake at 36° 31’ S, 174° 14'E. During a year's study (March 1969‐March 1970), the lake became thermally stratified in November, the metalimnion being between depths of 12 m and 16 m. Surface temperatures ranged between 10.2°c (in August) and 25.2°c (in late January), and bottom temperatures between 9.7°c and 17.5°c. The annual heat budget was calculated to be 642 354 KJ.m^‐2 (15 500 cal.cm^‐2) and the work of the wind in distributing the heat income 1.730 KJ.m^‐2 (1766 g.cm.cm^‐2). Secchi disc transparencies ranged between 5 m and 9.2 m (mean 7.07 m) and were greatest in the summer. Light transmission per metre was also high, ranging between 61% and 87%. Surface waters were normally supersaturated with oxygen, but during summer stratification oxygen concentrations in the bottom waters dropped to a minimum of 2.3 mg.litre^‐2 and a positive heterograde distribution of oxygen with depth was found. The oxygen deficit was 0.015 mg.cm^‐2.day^‐1 and showed the lake to be oligotrophic. Mean surface pH was 7.82, and the ionic composition of the waters was similar to that of other small New Zealand and Australian lakes located near the sea. Compared with other New Zealand lakes PO4‐P concentrations (range 1.00–10.20 μg.litre^‐1) were low and NO3—N concentrations (range 0.12–0.60 mg.litre^‐1) high.     

Measurements of the water-following capability of holey-sock and TRISTAR drifters

Since 1985, a number of measurements have been made in deep water to determine the water-following characteristics of mixed layer drifters with both holey-sock and TRISTAR drogues at 15 m depth. The measurements were done by attaching two neutrally buoyant vector measuring current meters (VMCMs) to the top and the bottom of the drogues and deploying the drifters in different wind and upper ocean shear conditions for periods of 2–4 h. The average velocity of the VMCM records was taken to be a quantitative measure of the slip of the drogue through the water, observed to be 0.5-3.5 cm s⁻¹. The most important hydrodynamic design parameter which influenced the slip of the drogue was the ratio of the drag area of the drogue to the sum of the drag areas of the tether and surface floats: the drag area ratio R. The most important environmental parameters which affected the slip were the wind and the measured velocity difference across the vertical extent of the drogue. A model of the vector slip as a function of R, vector wind and velocity difference across the drogue was developed and a least squares fit accounts for 85% of the variance of the slip measurements. These measurements indicated that to reduce the wind produced slip below 1 cm s⁻¹ in 10 m s⁻¹ wind speed, R > 40. Conversely, if the daily average wind is known to 5 m s⁻¹ accuracy, the displacement of the R = 40 drifter can be corrected to an accuracy of 0.5 km day⁻¹.     

Instruments for investigating shore and nearshore processes

Abstract

On shingle beaches, changes in foreshore elevation and sediment distribution landward of the break point are produced largely by variations in the uprush and backwash of waves. However, very little is known about the forces active in this zone.

A field instrument system which senses and records some of the parameters thought to influence beach erosion and deposition in this zone has been constructed. The equipment is also suitable for the investigation of a number of other shore and nearshore processes including erosion on sandy and rocky shores, and flow processes affecting littoral biological communities.

In the swash zone two sensing heads, a dynamometer and a depth recorder, sense variations in uprush and backwash velocities, energies, discharges, and depths of flow. Both devices are electromechanical and are coupled to a recording unit on land by PVC‐insulated cable. The dynamometer (two force plates mounted back‐to‐back on a compression spring and coupled to variable resistances) has been calibrated, statically and in a flume, to obtain velocity determinations accurate to within 10 cm . sec^?1 of true flow speed. Average swash zone velocities lie between 100 and 300 cm . sec^?1.

A parallel‐wire resistance gauge mounted an a stilling tube records flow depths. As water level rises and falls in the tube it alters resistance in a control circuit. The land unit, amplifiers and a strip‐chart recorder, receives the output from the dynamometer and flow depth gauge. The recorder is equipped with a trip‐pen so that analysis of wave periods or other variables is possible in the field. With poles at known spacings across the shore and the trip‐pen records, velocity distributions across the swash zone can be obtained. Measurements of velocity made near the bed with the dynamometer can then be related to the local surface velocity profile.

Problems with the instrument system include inability to record velocities at several points simultaneously, and unreliable records of backwash parameters with low breakers on shingle beaches because of the small volume of flow and rapid percolation of water into the beach face.