A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by horizontal, non-homogeneous current in general bottom topography

A coupled-mode model is developed for treating the wave–current–seabed interaction problem, with application to wave scattering by non-homogeneous, steady current over general bottom topography. The vertical distribution of the scattered wave potential is represented by a series of local vertical modes containing the propagating mode and all evanescent modes, plus additional terms accounting for the satisfaction of the free-surface and bottom boundary conditions. Using the above representation, in conjunction with unconstrained variational principle, an improved coupled system of differential equations on the horizontal plane, with respect to the modal amplitudes, is derived. In the case of small-amplitude waves, a linearised version of the above coupled-mode system is obtained, generalizing previous results by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [J Fluid Mech 1999;389:275–301] for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions. Keeping only the propagating mode in the vertical expansion of the wave potential, the present system reduces to an one-equation model, that is shown to be compatible with mild-slope model concerning wave–current interaction over slowly varying topography, and in the case of no current it exactly reduces to the modified mild-slope equation. The present coupled-mode system is discretized on the horizontal plane by using second-order finite differences and numerically solved by iterations. Results are presented for various representative test cases demonstrating the usefulness of the model, as well as the importance of the first evanescent modes and the additional sloping-bottom mode when the bottom slope is not negligible. The analytical structure of the present model facilitates its extension to fully non-linear waves, and to wave scattering by currents with more general structure.     

Computations of forces on, and particle orbits around, horizontal cylinders under steep waves

A numerical method, based on a boundary integral equation combined with a non-linear time stepping procedure for the free water surface, is developed for simulations of the interaction between highly non-linear water waves and submerged horizontal cylinders. The method is based on potential theory, and the omission of viscous effects restricts the wave-structure interaction computations to low Keulegan-Carpenter numbers where inertia forces are dominant. The numerical scheme is verified by computations with a steep wave of exact form during several wave periods, and by computations of a breaking wave. A new method for tracing the orbits of water particles in the fluid domain is developed, and the influence from submerged structures on the orbits is visualized through several computational examples. The wave forces on submerged structures are computed and are found to correspond well with other computed results for low Keulegan-Carpenter numbers.     

Two-dimensional wave-current interaction with a locally enriched quadtree grid system

Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach.     

Numerical implementation of the harmonic modified mild-slope equation

A numerical solver is presented of the modified time-independent mild-slope equation, which incorporates energy dissipation. Using a second-order parabolic approximation, the following external boundary conditions are modelled: open and fully transmitting to both incoming and outgoing waves; partially reflecting, and; fully absorbing. Discretisation of the governing equation and boundary conditions is by means of a second-order accurate central difference scheme. The resulting sparse-banded matrix is solved using an inexpensive banded solver with Gaussian elimination. The numerical predictions are in excellent agreement with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical surface-piercing circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. Results are compared with those for the same array on various seabed topographies. The model is robust and can be used for wave propagation in complex geometries. It has fewer restrictions associated with wave obliqueness at boundaries than traditional models based on the mild-slope equation.     

斜压海洋动力学的一种三维数值模式 Ⅰ.动力学方程数值格式

依据自由海面海洋动力学原始方程建立了一种三维有限差分数值模式,可用于潮波、风暴潮和海流的数值模拟和预报。运动方程和连续方程的数值格式采用内、外模态分离的技术。外模态采用交替方向隐格式,用于计算海面高度和垂直平均流速,时间步长不受Ｃｏｕｒａｎｔ－Ｆｒｉｄｅｒｉｃｈｓ－Ｌｅｗｙ条件限制;内模态采用半隐格式,用于计算海流的垂直２颁布,其时间步长可大于外模态时间步长。模式的计算程度比一般显式模式可快１０倍     

基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟

基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型.数值模型求解采用了预报-校正的有限差分法.对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式.首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解...     

Fundamental and derived modes of climate variability: concept and application to interannual time-scales

The notion of mode interaction is proposed as a deterministic concept for understanding climatic modes at various time-scales. This concept is based on the distinction between fundamental modes relying on their own physical mechanisms and derived modes that emerge from the interaction of two other modes. The notion is introduced and applied to interannual climate variability. Observational evidence is presented for the tropospheric biennial variability to be the result of the interaction between the annual cycle and a quasi-decadal mode originating in the Atlantic basin. Within the same framework, Pacific interannual variability at time-scales of about 4 and 6 yr is interpreted as the result of interactions between the biennial and quasi-decadal modes of climate variability. We show that the negative feedback of the interannual modes is linked to the annual cycle and the quasi-decadal mode, both originating outside the Pacific basin, whereas the strong amplitudes of interannual modes result from resonance and local positive feedback. It is argued that such a distinction between fundamental and derived modes of variability is important for understanding the underlying physics of climatic modes, with strong implications for climate predictability.     

Numerical study on evolution of an internal solitary wave across an idealized shelf with different front slopes

Numerical simulations are performed to investigate the influence of variable front slopes on flow evolution and waveform inversion of a depression ISW (internal solitary wave) over an idealized shelf with variable front slopes. A finite volume based on Cartesian grid method is adopted to solve the Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes equations using a k-ε model for the turbulent closure. Numerical results exhibit the variations of several pertinent properties of the flow field, in the case with or without waveform inversion on the horizontal plateau of an obstacle. The clockwise vortex is stronger than the counterclockwise one, almost throughout the wave-obstacle interaction. Analysis of the turbulent energy budget reveals that the turbulent production term in the governing equations dominates the wave evolution during a wave-obstacle interaction; otherwise the buoyancy production term and the dissipation term due to viscosity within turbulent eddies play a major role in energy dissipation. In addition, the front slope affects mainly the process and reflection of the wave evolution but has less influence than other physical parameters. Moreover, total wave energy of the leading crest is smaller than that of the leading trough even in the cases with waveform inversion on the plateau.     

Experimental investigation of the harmonic generation by waves over a submerged plate

Experiments in a wave flume have been performed to analyse the nonlinear interaction between regular gravity waves and a submerged horizontal plate used as breakwater. A new method, based on the Doppler shift generated by a moving probes, has been used to discriminate the incident fundamental mode and the reflected fundamental mode. The relationships of the reflection and transmission coefficients to the wave number at different submergence depth ratios are presented. The accurate discrimination, by this method, of the phase-locked and free modes allows the quantification of the higher harmonics generated by the breakwater and the analysis of the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the submerged plate. The transfer of energy from the fundamental mode to higher harmonics is very large in the cases of small submergence depth ratios. The vortices produced at the edges take part in the production of higher harmonics by interaction with the free surface but involve, at the same time, a dissipation process that increases the efficiency of the breakwater.     

The application of a Godunov-type shock capturing scheme for the simulation of waves from deep water up to the swash zone

A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) non-hydrostatic boundary fitted model based on a Godunov-type shock-capturing scheme is introduced and applied to the simulation of waves from deep water up to the swash zone. The effects of shoaling, breaking, surf zone dissipation and swash motions are considered. The application of a Godunov-type shock-capturing algorithm together with an implicit solver on a standard staggered grid is proposed as a new approach in the 2DV simulation of large gradient problems such as wave breaking and hydraulic jumps. The complete form of conservative Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are solved using an implicit finite volume method with a pressure correction technique. The horizontal advection of the horizontal velocity is solved by an explicit predictor–corrector method. Fluxes are predicted by an exact Riemann solver and corrected by a downwind scheme. A simple total variation diminishing (TVD) method with a monotonic upstream-centered scheme for conservation laws (MUSCL) limiter function is employed to eliminate undesirable oscillations across discontinuities. Validation of the model is carried out by comparing the results of the simulations with several experimental test cases of wave breaking and run-up and the analytical solution to linear short waves in deep water. Promising performance of the model has been observed.     

Acoustic properties of surface water masses in the tropical Atlantic and their seasonal variability

The peculiarities of the vertical hydroacoustic structure of surface water masses in the tropical Atlantic are reported. The near-surface acoustic channel in areas of strong freshening of oceanic waters by continental discharge and rainfall is studied. Quantitative characteristics of the seasonal variability of the channel's parameters are given. The mechanism responsible for the long-range acoustic conductivity in the upper layer of waters is analysed. The areas of maximum horizontal refraction in the near-surface layer are identified and the refraction angles of acoustic rays determined.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

岛屿岛礁海域海浪能谱模型研究进展

波浪能谱模型在岛屿岛礁海域的波浪预报研究和海洋工程中应用广泛,但存在模式计算格点无法充分体现岛屿岛礁的复杂地形特征和很难刻画波浪受到岛屿岛礁影响发生变形物理过程等两个关键问题。多重网格嵌套方案、岛屿次网格地形效应计算方案以及非结构网格、无网格、动态自适应四叉树网格等技术在体现岛屿岛礁复杂地形方面取得了较好的效果;将相位解析模型与波浪能谱模型优势互补是提高能谱模型对岛屿近岸波浪变形物理过程计算能力的一个有效方法。开展球坐标系下波作用密度谱方程的自适应四叉树网格求解方法研究,借鉴相位解析模型最新成果完善能谱模式的绕射、反射、底摩擦等物理过程,是提高岛屿岛礁海域海浪精细预报技术水平的前沿性、探索性研究方向。     

Spatial filtering for speckle reduction, contrast enhancement, andtexture analysis of GLORIA images

This paper reports a comparative study of digital enhancement techniques using spatial filtering to improve the geologic interpretation of side-scan sonar GLORIA images. Seven algorithms for speckle reduction with window sizes of 3×3-7×7 pixel and various numbers of iterations were tested for cosmetic purposes, and also to improve subsequent image processing. The filtered images were evaluated using both quantitative and qualitative techniques. It was determined that a normalized inverse gradient weighted smoothing scheme, with a 3×3 pixel filter and five iterations, allows a significant speckle reduction without blurring the edges in the GLORIA image which correspond to geological structures. Three local contrast enhancement techniques were also tested and evaluated to increase the perception of these geologic structures. Subtracting the gradient magnitude twice, calculated with spatial filters of a 5×5 pixel on smoothed images, was found to enhance most GLORIA images. Texture analysis methods developed for GLORIA images of mid-oceanic ridges and based on edge detection and orientation determination by spatial filtering are also presented. It enables the GLORIA mosaic of the Rodriguez triple junction (Indian Ocean) to be partitioned into regions of preferred orientation corresponding to the different seafloor fabrics generated at each arm of the triple junction     

Experimental investigation of hull girder vibrations of a flexible backbone model in bending and torsion

Although the coupled horizontal–torsional vibrations of open ships have been investigated numerically for decades, the available experimental data in oblique seas seem rare. Model tests, considering natural frequencies of bending and torsional modes, have been conducted by the Centre for Ships and Ocean Structures (CeSOS) in the towing tank and ocean basin. A flexible backbone model was designed with five cut-outs on the top side of the aluminum beam to realize approximately torsional stiffness as well as vertical and horizontal bending stiffness. This paper mainly deals with measured bending and torsional vibrations in regular and irregular waves. The damping ratios, mode shapes, and modal moments were derived from experimental data, and a numerical model based on modal superimposition is established according to the measured hydroelastic properties. Some time-domain simulations are carried out considering the structural characteristics, and compared with measured results. The test data in regular waves are presented to show the possible factors of influence on the vibrations. The effect of bending and torsional vibrations on the extreme response values in irregular waves is estimated. The uncertainties in the experiments are discussed and conclusions are presented at the end of this paper.     

Ocean bottom refraction seismograph (OBRS)

This paper describes a pop-up ocean bottom seismograph designed primarily for refraction surveys both on the continental shelf and in deep sea. Its development is the extension of our system based on seismic detectors located on the sea floor with radio transmission of seismic signals and used for seismic refraction studies on the continental shelf. The seismic detectors (vertical geophone or hydrophone and two orthogonally mounted horizontal geophones) are located outside of the pressure vessel on the main frame. Optionally, the seismic sensors may be decoupled from the main frame assembly. This decoupling is performed by a mobile arm positioning the separate three component sensor package on the sea floor.Contribution No. 455 of the Département Scientifique, Centre Océanologique de Bretagne.     

Picard iterations for a finite element shallow water equation model

ADCIRC, a finite element circulation model for shelves, coasts and estuaries, will be used for variational data assimilation. The nonlinear Euler–Lagrange (EL) problem will be solved using the iterated indirect representer algorithm. This algorithm makes such large, nonlinear but functionally smooth optimization problems feasible by iterating on linear approximations of the nonlinear problem (Picard iterations) and by making preconditioned searches in the “data subspace” at each iterate. Before solving the nonlinear EL using such Picard iterations, it essential that the iteration scheme be carefully examined within the framework of the nonassimilative or forward problem.The purpose of this paper is (1) to detail a Picard iteration procedure for ADCIRC, including the problematic bottom friction term; (2) to examine the ability of the iteration scheme to recover the nonlinear forward solution from deficient background fields; and (3) to present a study of different interpolation methods for reducing the memory/disk requirements of the iteration scheme. The iteration scheme is shown to be quite robust in its ability to recover the nonlinear solution from a variety of deficient background fields. A new cubic Hermitian interpolation method is shown to be a more effective alternative to standard linear interpolation for reducing memory/disk requirements, especially for high frequency overtides.     

Numerical Modeling of Wave and Current Interaction in the Tidal Inlet Area

This paper investigates the phenomena of wave refraction and diffraction in the slowly varying topography, as well as the current deflection due to wave actions. A numerical model is developed based on depth integrated mean continuity equation and momentum equations, and a 3rd-order wave equation which governs the wave diffraction, refraction and interaction with current. Examples to examine the above model are given comparing with the laboratory data or the numerical results of other researchers. An example simulating the inlet area shows the interesting velocity field which may be used as a pioneer to further study on the nearshore hydrodynamics and sedimentation.     

Path following control system for a tanker ship model

A two-dimensional path following control system for autonomous marine surface vessels is presented. The guidance system is obtained through a way-point guidance scheme based on line-of-sight projection algorithm and the speed controller is achieved through state feedback linearization. A new approach concerning the calculation of a dynamic line-of-sight vector norm is presented which main idea is to improve the speed of the convergence of the vehicle to the desired path. The results obtained are compared with the traditional line-of-sight scheme. It is intended that the complete system will be tested and implemented in a model of the “Esso Osaka” tanker. The results of simulations are presented here showing the effectiveness of the system aiming in to be robust enough to perform tests either in tanks or lakes.     

Numerical Simulation of the Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Currents on Unstructured Grid

By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.     

Water wave interaction with a floating porous cylinder

The interaction of water waves with a freely floating circular cylinder possessing a side-wall that is porous over a portion of its draft is investigated theoretically. The porous side-wall region is bounded top and bottom by impermeable end caps thereby resulting in an enclosed fluid region within the structure. The problem is formulated based on potential flow and linear wave theory and assuming small-amplitude structural oscillations. An eigenfunction expansion approach is then used to obtain semi-analytical expressions for the hydrodynamic excitation and reaction loads on the structure. Numerical results are presented which illustrate the effects of the various wave and structural parameters on these quantities. It is found that the permeability, size and location of the porous region may have a significant influence on the horizontal components of the hydrodynamic excitation and reaction loads, while its influence on the vertical components in most cases is relatively minor.