An enhanced depth-averaged tidal model for morphological studies in the presence of rotary currents

A simple and efficient method to improve morphological predictions using depth-averaged tidal models is presented. The method includes the contribution of secondary flows in sediment transport using the computed flow field from a depth-averaged model. The method has been validated for a case study using the 3D POLCOMS model and ADCP data. The enhanced depth-averaged tidal model along with the SWAN wave model are applied to morphological prediction around the Lleyn Peninsula and Bardsey Island as a case study in the Irish Sea. Due to the presence of a headland in this area two asymmetrical tidal eddies are developed in which the cyclonic eddy is stronger as a result of Coriolis effects. The results show that the enhanced model can effectively predict formation of sand banks at the centre of cyclonic eddies, while the depth-averaged model, due to its inability to accommodate secondary flow, is inadequate in this respect.     

Effect of advective and diffusive sediment transport on the formation of local and global bottom patterns in tidal embayments

Bathymetric field data of tidal basins reveal two main classes of bottom patterns: (1) tidal bars, located near the entrance of the basin (length scale determined by the embayment width) and (2) global channel-shoal patterns which scale with the basin length. Previous models were able to describe only either one of these patterns. In this paper it is shown that both of them can be investigated within the framework of an idealised model of a rectangular tidal embayment, with fixed side walls and an erodible bed. The water motion is described by the depth-averaged shallow-water equations and is forced by a prescribed vertical tide at the seaward entrance. Sediment is transported as suspended load and only realistic values of the bottom friction parameter are considered. By assuming the ratio of embayment length over tidal wave length to be small, the model allows for a morphodynamic equilibrium, characterised by a spatially uniform tide moving over a bottom which slopes upwards toward the landward boundary. This equilibrium is unstable for a range of values of the model parameters, such that growth of bedforms occurs. Both global and local bottom patterns are found. In this study particular emphasis is laid on the mechanism governing the growth of a new type of localised bottom pattern. These patterns consist of small bars located near the entrance of the basin, resembling multiple row bars, and are found when advective sediment fluxes prevail over diffusive sediment fluxes. The formation process of these new bedforms is discussed in detail. The results agree well with field data. Comparison of the results with those obtained with a process-based, numerical model shows that, although the idealised model is strongly simplified, it is capable of producing the essential morphodynamics. Therefore, the idealised model is a useful tool to investigate mechanisms of bottom pattern growth.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Numerical modeling of tidal currents, sediment transport and morphological evolution in Hangzhou Bay, China

A 2D depth-averaged numerical model is set up to simulate the macro-scale hydrodynamic characteristics, sediment transport patterns and morphological evolution in Hangzhou Bay, a large macro-tidal estuary on the eastern coast of China. By incorporating the shallow water equations, the suspended sediment transport equation and the mass-balance equation for sediment; short-term hydrodynamics, sediment transport and long-term morphological evolution for Hangzhou Bay are simulated and the underlying physical mechanisms are analyzed. The model reproduces the spatial distribution patterns of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Hangzhou Bay, characterized by three high SSC zones and two low SSC zones. It also correctly simulates the residual flow, the residual sediment transport and the sediment accumulation patterns in Hangzhou Bay. The model results are in agreement with previous studies based on field measurements. The residual flow and the residual sediment transport are landwards directed in the northern part of the bay and seawards directed in the southern part. Sediment accumulation takes place in most areas of the bay. Harmonic analysis revealed that the tide is flood-dominant in the northern part of the bay and ebb-dominant in the southern part of the bay. The strength of the flood-dominance increases landwards along the northern Hangzhou Bay. In turn sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay is controlled by this tidal asymmetry pattern. In addition, the direction of tidal propagation in the East China Sea, the presence of the archipelago in the southeast and the funnel-shaped geometry of the bay, play important roles for the patterns of sediment transport and sediment accumulation respectively.     

Flow fields and particle trajectories beneath a tidal bore: A numerical study

Tidal bores may appear in some estuaries when the tides quickly reach a high level. This phenomenon is rare but has a strong impact during its short duration: i.e. the river bed is significantly eroded and sediments are then transported. In this paper, the trajectories of suspended particles induced by this flow are numerically studied. Four undular bores with Froude numbers between 1.1 and 1.2 are studied. Despite similar Froude numbers, various initial flow conditions were selected to produce or not an inversion of the flow direction during the bore passage. The particle trajectories associated with each distinct flow configuration are presented and analyzed. These trajectories, estimated by solving the Maxey-Riley equation, appear to be very different even though the Froude numbers of flows are similar. These observations are important because the Froude number is often used to characterize a tidal bore as it describes well the free surface, however, it cannot describe the sediment transport. Finally, Chen's model of wave-current interactions is adapted to fit the cases studied and is applied to the four bores simulated. The results highlight that this latter model can reproduce the observed trajectories and dissociate their different components. From this model, it is shown that the inertial and Basset history effects can be neglected compared to the gravity and flow entrainment effects due to the viscous drag when one wants to determine the long-term trajectories of suspended particles.     

The influence of tides, wind and waves on the net sand transport in the North Sea

Large-scale redistribution of sand by hydrodynamical processes in shelf seas is important for basin and coastal evolution on time scales of a thousand to tens of thousands of years. The influence of tides on the large-scale net sand-transport patterns in the North Sea has received much attention, but the influence of wind-driven flow and wind waves has hardly been investigated. Here, to establish the present-day situation and to develop a method that can also be used for palaeo-situations and forecasts for different sea levels, this influence is assessed for the present southern North Sea using a numerical flow model, a parametric wave model and a wave-averaged sand-transport formulation. Various forcing combinations are used to identify the dominant transport mechanisms: tides only, tides and wind, tides and waves, and combined tides, wind and waves. Wind forcing is applied in two ways to find an efficient, but still representative, method of incorporating this stochastic process: a statistical wind climatology and an observed time series. The results show that (i) the wind climatology yields a good approximation of the sand transport computed using the time series; (ii) wind-driven flow and waves only contribute significantly to the net sand transport by tides when acting together where tidal currents are small; and (iii) various combinations of forcings dominate the net sand transport in different regions of the southern North Sea: (a) tides dominate in the southern, middle and northwestern parts of the Southern Bight and in the region of The Wash; (b) tides, wind-driven flow and waves all are important in the northeastern part of the Southern Bight; and (c) wind-driven flow and waves dominate north of the Friesian Islands, in the German Bight and on the Dogger Bank. Qualitative comparison with observations shows good agreement.     

Hydrodynamics of salt marsh creek systems: Implications for marsh morphological development and material exchange

Integrated ebb-aligned drainage systems are a feature of tide-dominated marshes, and are generally regarded as major conduits for material exchange. In north Norfolk, highly unsteady creek flows exhibit well-developed velocity and stress transients which result from the discontinuous nature of the tidal prism and the interaction of shallow water tidal inputs with hydraulically rough vegetated surfaces. Marsh morphological development is governed by a form-process feedback, in the sense that the marsh surface acts as a topographic threshold separating the depositional regime of below-marsh tides from the erosional (ebb-dominated) regime of over-marsh tides. Vertical marsh growth results in increasing intermittency of creek sediment transport. Furthermore, velocity transients are associated with large discharges which must be allowed for in material flux computations. Creek flux measurements are not in themselves sufficient to estimate total material budgets, since a large proportion of tidal exchange may take place via the marsh edge. Such studies should focus instead on direct measurement of marsh surface processes. These findings have relevance beyond this back-barrier setting to marshes of different geometry, occupying a broad range of the tidal energy spectrum.     

Observations of sediment resuspension and settling off the mouth of Jiaozhou Bay,Yellow Sea

We deployed bottom-mounted quadrapod equipped with acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP), acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV), and optical backscatter sensor (OBS) over two semidiurnal tidal cycles along the western coast of the Yellow Sea, China. In combination with shipboard profiling of CTD and LISST-100, we resolved the temporal and spatial distributions of tidal currents, turbulent kinetic energy (TKE), suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and particle size distributions. During the observations, tidal-induced bottom shear stress was the main stirring factor. However, weak tidal flow during the ebb phase was accompanied by two large SSC and median size events. The interactions of seiche-induced oscillations with weak ebb flow induced multiple flow reversals and provided a source of turbulence production, which stripped up the benthic fluff layers (only several millimeters) around the Jiaozhou Bay mouth. Several different methods for inferring mean suspended sediment settling velocity agreed well under peak currents, including estimates using LISST-based Stokes’ settling law, and ADCP-based Rouse profiles, ADV-based inertial-dissipation balance and Reynolds flux. Suspended particles in the study site can be roughly classified into two types according to settling behavior: a smaller, denser class consistent with silt and clay and a larger, less dense class consistent with loosely aggregated flocs. In the present work, we prove that acoustic approaches are robust in simultaneously and non-intrusively estimating hydrodynamics, SSC and settling velocities, which is especially applicable for studying sediment dynamics in tidal environments with moderate concentration levels.     

Sensitivity of tidal sand wavelength to environmental parameters: A combined data analysis and modelling approach

An integrated field data-modelling approach is employed to investigate relationships between the wavelength of tidal sand waves and four environmental parameters: tidal current amplitude, water depth, tidal ellipticity and median grain size. From echo sounder data at 23 locations on the Dutch continental shelf, the average wavelengths of observed sand waves are determined and compared with the wavelengths obtained with a process-based model. The latter describes the initial formation of these bedforms due to feedbacks between the tidal current and the erodible bed and uses environmental parameters for the 23 locations as input. Good agreement between observed and modelled wavelengths is found if the bottom stress experienced by tidal currents is adequately quantified. Model results show that the wavelength of sand waves increases with increasing water depth, tidal ellipticity and grain size (coarse sand), whilst it decreases with increasing tidal current amplitude and grain size (fine sand). Due to the limited number of stations and the fact that all four parameters change from location to location, the modelled relationships are only partly supported by the field observations.     

Tides and mixing in the northwestern East China Sea Part I: Rotating and reversing tidal flows

Bottom-mounted ADV and ADCP instruments in combination with CTD profiling measurements taken along the Chinese coast of the East China Sea were used to study the vertical structure of temperature, salinity, and velocity in reversing tidal currents on a shallow inner shelf and in rotating tidal flows over a deeper sloping bottom of the outer shelf. These two regimes of barotropic tide affect small-scale dynamics in the lower part of the water column differently. The reversing flow was superimposed by seiches of ∼2.3 h period generated in semienclosed Jiaozhou Bay located nearby. As the tidal vector rotates over the sloping bottom, the height of the near-bottom logarithmic layer is subjected to tidal-induced variations. A maximum of horizontal velocity U_max appears at the upper boundary of the log layer during the first half of the current vector rotation from the minor to the major axis of tidal ellipse. In rotating tidal flow, vertical shear generated at the seafloor, propagated slowly to the water interior up to the height of U_max, with a phase speed of ∼5 m/h. The time-shifted shear inside the water column, relative to the shear at the bottom, was associated with periodically changing increases and decreases of the tidal velocity above the log layer toward the sea surface. In reversing flows, the shear generated near the bottom and the shear at the upper levels were almost in phase.     

Movement of tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea and its consequences on the morphological development

The Wadden Sea consists of a series of tidal lagoons which are connected to the North Sea by tidal inlets. Boundaries of each lagoon are the mainland coast, the barrier islands on both sides of the tidal inlet, and the tidal watersheds behind the two barrier islands. Behind each Wadden Island there is a tidal watershed separating two adjacent tidal lagoons. The locations of the tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea are not fixed. Especially after a human interference in one of the tidal lagoons, a tidal watershed can move and thereby influence the distribution of area between the lagoons. This appears to be important for the morphological development in not only the basin in which the interference takes place, but also in the adjacent basins. This paper describes theoretical analyses and numerical modelling aimed at improving the insights into the location of the tidal watersheds, their movements, and the impact of the movements of tidal watersheds on the morphological development of a multi-basin system like the Wadden Sea.     

Sensitivity and uncertainty analysis of a sediment transport model: a global approach

Computerized sediment transport models are frequently employed to quantitatively simulate the movement of sediment materials in rivers. In spite of the deterministic nature of the models, the outputs are subject to uncertainty due to the inherent variability of many input parameters in time and in space, along with the lack of complete understanding of the involved processes. The commonly used first-order method for sensitivity and uncertainty analyses is to approximate a model by linear expansion at a selected point. Conclusions from the first-order method could be of limited use if the model responses drastically vary at different points in parameter space. To obtain the global sensitivity and uncertainty features of a sediment transport model over a larger input parameter space, the Latin hypercubic sampling technique along with regression procedures were employed. For the purpose of illustrating the methodologies, the computer model HEC2-SR was selected in this study. Through an example application, the results about the parameters sensitivity and uncertainty of water surface, bed elevation and sediment discharge were discussed.     

Numerical simulation of tidal current and erosion and sedimentation in the Yangshan deep-water harbor of Shanghai

Yangshan near-shore sea area is the multi-island and multi-channel area with strong flow velocity and high suspended sediment concentration. Based on the characteristics of tidal currents, waves, and sediment in the Yangshan area, a two-dimensional numerical model of tidal currents, sediment transport, and sea bed deformation is developed. In the model, the effects of tidal currents and wind waves on sediment transport are considered. According to characteristics of the study area, unstructured grids are applied to fit the boundaries of the near-shore sea area. The results show that the calculated values are in good agreement with the measured data. The field of tidal currents, suspended sediment concentrations, and the deformation of the seabed can be successfully simulated.     

A convection-conduction model for analysis of the freeze-thaw conditions in the surrounding rock wall of a tunnel in permafrost regions

The results of simulated tidal current field, wave field and storm-induced current field are employed to interpret the depositional dynamic mechanism of formation and evolution of the radial sand ridges on the Yellow Sea door. The anticlockwise rotary tidal wave to the south of Shandong Peninsula meets the following progressive tidal wave from the South Yellow Sea, forming a radial current field outside Jianggang. This current field provides a necessary dynamic condition for the formation and existence of the radial sand ridges on the Yellow Sea seafloor. The results of simulated “old current field (holocene)” show that there existed a convergent-divergent tidal zone just outside the palaeo-Yangtze River estuary where a palaeo-underwater accumulation was developed. The calculated results from wave models indicate that the wave impact on the topography, under the condition of high water level and strong winds, is significant. The storm current induced by typhoons landing in the Yangtze River estuary and turning away to the sea can have an obvious influence, too, on the sand ridges. The depmitional dynamic mechanism of formation and evolution of the radial sand ridges on the Yellow Sea seafloor is “tidal current-induced formation—storm-induced chang—tidal current-induced recovery”. Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 49236120).     

Anatomy of a shoreface sand ridge revisited using foraminifera: False Cape Shoals, Virginia/North Carolina inner shelf

Certain details regarding the origin and evolution of shelf sand ridges remain elusive. Knowledge of their internal stratigraphy and microfossil distribution is necessary to define the origin and to determine the processes that modify sand ridges. Fourteen vibracores from False Cape Shoal A, a well-developed shoreface-attached sand ridge on the Virginia/North Carolina inner continental shelf, were examined to document the internal stratigraphy and benthic foraminiferal assemblages, as well as to reconstruct the depositional environments recorded in down-core sediments. Seven sedimentary and foraminiferal facies correspond to the following stratigraphic units: fossiliferous silt, barren sand, clay to sandy clay, laminated and bioturbated sand, poorly sorted massive sand, fine clean sand, and poorly sorted clay to gravel. The units represent a Pleistocene estuary and shoreface, a Holocene estuary, ebb tidal delta, modern shelf, modern shoreface, and swale fill, respectively. The succession of depositional environments reflects a Pleistocene sea-level highstand and subsequent regression followed by the Holocene transgression in which barrier island/spit systems formed along the Virginia/North Carolina inner shelf 5.2 ka and migrated landward and an ebb tidal delta that was deposited, reworked, and covered by shelf sand.     

The influence of bed forms on reference concentration and suspension under waves and currents

Hydrodynamic, suspension and bed-form measurements were made 2 km off the Dutch coast near Noordwijk aan Zee in ∼14 m water depth for a period of 32 days in 2003. Tidal currents were just able to suspend sand at the bed at peak spring tide but most suspension and transport occurred as a result of the combination of waves and currents. Burst-average (17 min) sand concentration profiles (C¯-profiles) from an acoustic backscatter instrument were used to define the (varying) location of the sea-bed, following the method used by Green et al. [Green, M.O., Dolphin, T.J., Swales, A., Vincent, C.E., 1999. Transport of mixed-size sediments in a tidal channel. Coastal Sediments ‘99, edited by N.C. Kraus, and W.G. McDougal, ASCE, Long Island, New York, pp. 644–658]. Reference concentrations at the sea-bed (C₀) and at 1 cm (C₁) were examined in relation to both the hydrodynamic conditions and the type of bed forms present. The C₀ predictive equations of Green and Black [Green, M.O., Black, K.P., Suspended sediment reference concentration under waves: field measurements and critical analysis of two predictive models, Coastal Engineering, 38, 115–141, 1999](short-wave ripples) and Nielsen [Nielsen, P., Suspended sediment concentrations under waves, Coastal Engineering, 10, 23–31, 1986](all bed forms; includes ripple steepness), both of which require knowledge of the bed-form type, were not as successful in explaining the variance in our C₀ data as a regression of C₀ against the skin-friction Shields parameter θ′_cw that ignored bed-form type (73% of variance explained). The values of the reference concentration C₁ were compared with the Lee et al. [Lee, G.-H., Dade, W.B., Friedrichs, C.T., Vincent, C.E., Examination of Reference Concentration Under Waves and Currents on the Inner Shelf., Journal of Geophysical Research, 109, 1–10, 2004] equation which predicts C₁ from the product of the Shields parameter and the inverse Rouse parameter; 51% of the variance in C₁ was explained.     

Unsteady soil erosion due to rainfall impact: a model of sediment sorting on the hillslope

A new method is presented for predicting sediment sorting associated with soil erosion by raindrop impact for non-equilibrium conditions. The form of soil erosion considered is that which results from raindrop impact in the presence of shallow overland flow itself where the flow is not capable of eroding sediment. The method specifically considers early time runoff and erosion when sediment leaving an eroding area is generally finer and thus may have a higher potential for transport of sorbed pollutants. The new mechanism described is the formation of a deposited layer on the soil surface, which is shown to lead to sediment sorting during an erosion event. The deposited layer is taken to have two roles in this process: to temporarily store sediment on the surface between successive trajectories, and to shield the underlying soil from erosive stresses. Equations describing the dynamics of the suspended sediment mixture and the deposited layer are developed. By integrating these equations over the length of eroding land element and over the duration of the erosion event, an event-based solution is proposed which predicts total sediment sorting over the event. This solution is shown to be consistent with experimentally observed trends in enrichment of fine sediment. Predictions using this approach are found to only partly explain measured enrichment for sets of experimental data for two quite different soils, but to be in poor agreement for an aridsol of dispersive character. It is concluded that the formation of the deposited layer is a significant mechanism in the enrichment of fine sediment and associated sorbed pollutants, but that processes in the dispersive soil are not as well described by the theory presented.     

Tidal currents,energy flux and bottom boundary layer thickness in the Clyde Sea and North Channel of the Irish Sea

A high-resolution three-dimensional model of the Clyde Sea and the adjacent North Channel of the Irish Sea is used to compute the major diurnal and semidiurnal tides in the region, the associated energy fluxes and thickness of the bottom boundary layer. Initially, the accuracy of the model is assessed by performing a detailed comparison of computed tidal elevations and currents in the region, against an extensive database that exists for the M₂, S₂, N₂, K₁ and O₁ tides. Subsequently, the model is used to compute the tidal energy flux vectors in the region. These show that the major energy flux is confined to the North Channel region, with little energy flux into the Clyde Sea. Comparison with the observed energy flux in the North Channel shows that its across-channel distribution and its magnitude are particularly sensitive to the phase difference between elevation and current. Consequently, small changes in the computed values of these parameters due to slight changes of the order of the uncertainty in the open-boundary values to the model, can significantly influence the computed energy flux. The thickness of the bottom boundary layer in the region is computed using a number of formulations. Depending upon the definition adopted, the empirical coefficient C used to determine its thickness varies over the range 0.1 to 0.3, in good agreement with values found in the literature. In the North Channel, the boundary layer thickness occupies the whole water depth, and hence tidal turbulence produced at the sea bed keeps the region well mixed. In the Clyde Sea, the boundary layer thickness is a small fraction of the depth, and hence the region stratifies.Responsible Editor: Phil Dyke