三维随机波浪对桩柱的作用

试验研究了三维随机波浪作用于垂直圆柱上的作用力.采用二维波浪的方法计算三维波浪力,研究了各波力系数随ＫＣ数和波浪方向分布的变化规律,并对三维波力和二维波力进行了对比分析.     

Wave forces and moments on an intake well

A sea water intake well of size 20 m diameter and 15.5 m height in a water depth of 9.8 m is proposed north of the Visakhapatnam Port for a project to extract magnesia from sea water. A 1:25 scale model of the intake well was tested in the wave basin of the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras to measure the wave forces and moments on the intake well and the variation of water levels inside and outside the well. Accordingly, an intake well model of 0.8 m diameter and 0.62 m height was fabricated and fixed over a false bottom in a wave basin. The well model was subjected to the action of both regular waves for two test conditions, intake well inlet closed during installation and intake well inlet open. The experimental results on wave forces and moments were compared with the results of the Linear Diffraction Theory. The water level inside the well was measured to determine the submergence of suction pipes of pumps and location of the inlet opening of the intake well. The wave crest elevation in front of the well was also measured in order to fix the deck level of the well so as to avoid water overspill onto the deck. The salient results of the present study are presented and discussed in this paper.     

Interaction of oblique waves with infinite number of perforated caissons

An analytic solution based on the division of the fluid domain is developed for the interaction of obliquely incident waves with infinite number of perforated caissons. The whole fluid domain is firstly divided into infinite sub-domains according to the division of structures, and subsequently eigenfunction expansion is employed to represent the velocity potential in each domain. A phase relation is utilized for the analysis of wave oscillation in each caisson, and the character of structure geometry is considered in setting up the mathematical model of reflection waves. The reflection waves from the present analysis include many propagation waves traveling in different directions when the incident wave frequency is high. Benchmark examinations show that the continuous condition of water particle velocity is satisfied at the front walls of caissons, and the reflection coefficients keep agreement with the energy conservation relation very well when porous effect parameter is infinite. Numerical results show that the reflection coefficients of obliquely incident waves are smaller when the length of caissons is shorter at low frequency. The wave reflection coefficients and the wave forces normal to caissons decrease and the wave forces along caissons increase with the increase of the wave incident angle.     

Wave pressures on a vertical wall due to short-crested waves: fifth-order approximation

Non-linear wave pressure induced by short-crested waves on a vertical wall is an important factor to be considered in the design of coastal structures. The existing models to estimate the wave pressure in engineering design are limited to the third-order solution ([Hsu et al., 1979]). In this paper, an analytical solution up to the fifth-order is derived through perturbation approximation. This analytical closed-form solution is used to investigate the contributions of the higher-order components in short-crested waves. It is found that fifth-order components significantly affect the change of pressure, especially in shallow water and larger waves.     

Hydrodynamic efficiency of partially immersed caissons supported on piles

The efficiency of the breakwater, which consists of caissons supported on two or three rows of piles, was studied using physical models. The efficiency of the breakwater is presented as a function of the transmission, reflection and the wave energy dissipation coefficients. Regular waves with wide ranges of wave heights and periods and constant water depth were used. Different characteristics of the caisson structure and the supporting pile system were also tested. It was found that, the transmission coefficient (k_t) decreases with increasing the relative breakwater draft D/L, increasing the relative breakwater width B/h, and decreasing the piles gap-diameter ratio G/d. It is possible to achieve k_t values less than 0.25 when D/L≥0.1. The reflection coefficient takes the opposite trend especially when D/L≤0.15. The proposed breakwater dissipates about 10-25% of the incident wave energy. Also, simple empirical equations are developed for estimating the wave transmission and reflection. In addition, the proposed breakwater model is efficient compared with other floating breakwaters.     

The reflection of oblique waves by an infinite number of partially perforated caissons

This study examines the reflection of obliquely incident waves by an infinite array of partially perforated caissons. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution of the present problem was developed by means of the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The solution was obtained in a single strip consisting of the semi-infinite narrow region in front of a caisson and the fluid domain inside this caisson. It was then extended to the whole fluid domain by using the periodicities of the structure and the incident waves along the length of the caissons. The present model was validated by comparing the reflection coefficients of several limiting cases with the corresponding results obtained by previous researchers. Numerical experiments were also conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors. The numerical results indicate the differences between the present model and the previous limiting cases, and some helpful results are recommended for practical engineering.     

目标回波中的弹性信息提取方法研究

在主动声纳探雷识别中,弹性波提取方法一直是研究的难点。研究表明回波中,几何亮点主要表现为波形包络的强起伏的慢变化,在频域上属于低频,而弹性信息则隐含在包络中,其变化较快且能量微弱,相对于包络来说是比较弱的高频成份。运用中心差分的方法,可使高频成份得到较大的增强,从而实现弹性信息提取的目的。仿真和实验数据均取得了良好的效果。     

Wave modelling - The state of the art

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments.     

Wave Forces Acting on Vertical Walls

Regular and irregular wave forces acting on vertical walls are studied by a previously developed numerical model. The computed wave forces are compared with the available experimental data to verify the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. The variation of wave forces with incident angles and the shape of simultaneous pressure distribution are investigated, and the comparisons between numerical results and Goda＇ s predictions are also carried out. It is concluded that the maximum wave forces acting on the unit length of vertical wall is often induced by the obliquely incident waves instead of normally incident waves, while Goda＇ s formula may be inapplicable for oblique wave incidence. The shape of simultaneous pressure distribution is not significantly influenced by incident angles, and it can be favorably predicted by Goda＇ s formula. When regular wave heights are taken as the same as irregular wave height H1%, the irregular wave forces Ph. 1% are slightly larger than regular wave forces in most cases.     

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h^−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.     

Wave forces on, and water-surface fluctuations around a vertical cylinder encircled by a perforated square caisson

The wave forces and moments on and the water surface fluctuations around a vertical circular cylinder encircled by a perforated square caisson were experimentally investigated. The porosity of the outer square caisson was varied from 4.24 to 14.58%. The in-line wave forces on the inner vertical cylinder are influenced by changing the porosity of the outer caisson, whereas the variations in the water surface fluctuations are less influenced in this porosity range. The in-line moment on the vertical cylinder is relatively less sensitive when the porosity is increased from 4.24 to 8.75%, but varies substantially when it is increased from 8.75 to 14.58%. The force and moment ratio (i.e. the ratio of the force or moment on the vertical cylinder, when it is encircled by the perforated caisson to the force or moment on the cylinder without any protection around it) reduces with increased wave height, H, and wave length, L, whereas the wave height ratio (ratio of the wave height at a point in the vicinity of the structure to the incident wave height) is less sensitive for the varying H and L. A new non-dimensional parameter, p^1.5 (D/L)/(H/d), is introduced to predict the in-line force and moment on the inner vertical cylinder, where d is local water depth, D is the diameter of the inner cylinder and p is the porosity of the outer caisson in percentage. Simple predictive equations for forces, moments and water surface fluctuations are provided.     

Interaction of cnoidal waves with an array of vertical concentric porous cylinders

An array of large concentric porous cylinder arrays is mounted in shallow water exposed to cnoidal waves. The interactions between waves and cylinders are studied theoretically using an eigenfunction expansion approach. Semi-analytical solutions of hydrodynamic loads and wave run-up on each cylinder are obtained using first approximation to cnoidal waves. The square array configuration of four-legged identical concentric porous cylinder is investigated in present study. Numerical results reveal the variation of dimensionless wave force and wave run-up on individual cylinder with angle of incidence, porosity parameter, spacing between outer and inner cylinders, spacing between concentric porous cylinders and wave parameter. Different mechanism of wave force is found under different range of scattering parameter.     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

Wave loads on a coastal bridge deck and the role of entrapped air

Wave loading on a coastal bridge deck due to nonlinear waves during a storm, where air may be fully or partially trapped between the girders, is studied through an extensive set of laboratory experiments. Wave cases tested cover a range of shallow-water to intermediate-water depth waves. A range of model elevations is tested to include conditions where the bridge may be partially inundated, to where the model is fully elevated above the still-water level (SWL). The model is constructed to include different percentages of air-relief openings, to capture a range of cases where no air can escape between the girders, to where all the air can escape and the wave can freely interact with the bottom of the bridge deck. Effects of the compressibility of entrapped air as well as the effects of the model scale are investigated through numerical calculations solving the compressible and incompressible Euler's equations, at both the model and prototype scales, by use of the open source CFD software, OpenFOAM. Along with coastal bridges, this research is applicable to other coastal and offshore structures, such as piers, submerged breakwaters and offshore platforms, in which wave loading or entrapped air is of concern.     

Viscosity and nonlinearity effects on the forces and waves generated by a floating twin hull under heave oscillation

Nonlinear hydrodynamics of a twin rectangular hull under heave oscillation is analyzed using numerical methods. Two-dimensional nonlinear time-domain solutions to both inviscid and viscous problems are obtained and the results are compared with linear, inviscid frequency-domain results obtained in [26] to quantify nonlinear and viscous effects. Finite-difference methods based on boundary-fitted coordinates are used for solving the governing equations in the time domain [2]. A primitive-variables based projection method [6] is used for the viscous analysis and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [11] for inviscid analysis. The algorithms are validated and the order of accuracy determined by comparing the results obtained from the present algorithm with the experimental results of Vugt [22] for a heaving rectangle in the free surface. The present study on the twin-hull hydrodynamics shows that at large and non-resonant regular frequencies, and small amplitude of body oscillation, the fluid viscosity does not significantly affect the wave motion and the radiation forces. At low frequencies however the viscosity effect is found to be significant even for small amplitude of body oscillation. In particular, the hydrodynamic force obtained from the nonlinear viscous analysis is found to be closer to the linear inviscid force than the nonlinear inviscid force to the linear inviscid force, the reason for which is attributed to the wave dampening effect of viscosity. Since the wave lengths generated at smaller frequencies of oscillation are longer and therefore the waves could have a more significant effect on the dynamic pressure on the bottom of the hulls which contribute to the heave force, the correlation between the heave force and the wave elevation is found to be larger at smaller frequencies. Because of nonlinearity, the wave radiation and wave damping force remained nonzero even at and around the resonant frequencies – with the resonant frequencies as determined in [26] using linear potential flow theory. As to be expected, the nonlinear effect on the wave force is found to be significant at all frequencies for large amplitude of oscillation compared to the hull draft. The effect of viscosity on the force, by flow separation, is also found to be significant for large amplitude of body oscillation.     

Wave model predictions in the Black Sea: Sensitivity to wind fields

This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (H_mo), mean wave period (T_m02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data.     

A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking—Reply to discussion by T.S. Hedges

The equations of Hedges [Hedges, T.S., 2009. Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux, Coastal Eng.], although yielding similar wavelengths, are not consistent with the fact that the horizontal water particle velocity in the wave crest should equal the wave celerity at breaking over a nearly horizontal bottom.     

Wave run-up on slender circular cylindrical foundations for offshore wind turbines in nonlinear random waves

A practical method for estimating the wave run-up height on a slender circular cylindrical foundation for wind turbines in nonlinear random waves is provided. The approach is based on the velocity stagnation head theory and Stokes second order wave theory by assuming the basic harmonic wave motion to be a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. Comparisons are made with measurements by De Vos et al. (2007), and some of the highest wave run-up events that were predicted agree with those measured.     

塘沽近海海域海浪的基本特征

本文对在海洋钻井平台上连续观测6a的波浪资料进行了统计、分析，结果表明，本区大浪主要发生在秋季，多年按月统计极值波高11月最大，为5．3m（东北向），7月最小，为2．8m；波浪总特征表现为秋季强，春季次之，夏季最弱的特征。表中所示波浪特征值，在塘沽海城海洋工程建设中具有重要的价值．     

南海北部波浪特征分析

利用南海北部近海区域(20°36.298′N,110°45.433′E)于2012年至2013年的波浪实测资料,统计分析了其波浪特征,为海洋工程建设和波浪能利用提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,南海北部年平均有效波高为1.2m,周年平均十分之一部分大波波高为1.5m,年平均周期4.0s,周年最大平均有效波高为4.97m,周年最大平均十分之一部分大波波高为7.34m,常浪向为E向,次常浪向为ENE向。强浪向为E向,次强浪向为ESE向。