Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.     

Modeling of the eddy viscosity by breaking waves

Breaking wave induced nearsurface turbulence has important consequences for many physical and biochemical processes including water column and nutrients mixing,heat and gases exchange across air-sea interface.The energy loss from wave breaking and the bubble plume penetration depth are estimated.As a consequence,the vertical distribution of the turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),the TKE dissipation rate and the eddy viscosity induced by wave breaking are also provided.It is indicated that model results are found to be consistent with the observational evidence that most TKE generated by wave breaking is lost within a depth of a few meters near the sea surface.High turbulence level with intensities of eddy viscosity induced by breaking is nearly four orders larger than υwl(=κuwz),the value predicted for the wall layer scaling close to the surface,where uw is the friction velocity in water,κ with 0.4 is the von Kármán constant,and z is the water depth,and the strength of the eddy viscosity depends both on wind speed and sea state,and decays rapidly through the depth.This leads to the conclusion that the breaking wave induced vertical mixing is mainly limited to the near surface layer,well above the classical values expected from the similarity theory.Deeper down,however,the effects of wave breaking on the vertical mixing become less important.     

Harbor resonance induced by subaerial landslide-generated impact waves

Past studies of harbor resonance have mainly been restricted to the quasi-steady oscillations induced by steady wave conditions. This paper investigates the response of a rectangular harbor to subaerial landslide-generated impact waves based on physical models, in order to compare the oscillations induced by steady and transient waves. In response to steady incident waves, oscillations within the harbor need to experience a long process to obtain their maximum value before the input energy and the losses are balanced. Landslide-generated impact waves usually include components with solitary wave characteristics and also components with dispersive wave characteristics. Each component travels with a different celerity. Usually, solitary wave components propagate faster, and arrive in the harbor first. Oscillations attain their maximum status as soon as these components arrive. The subsequently arriving components with dispersive characteristics do not enhance the resonance oscillations. So the waves with solitary characteristics are considered to play an important role in harbor resonance. Numerical experiments, using the FUNWAVE model, were conducted in order to further verify these conclusions.     

多向不规则波作用下斜坡式建筑物护面块体的稳定性

试验研究了扭工字块体、钩连块体、四脚空心方块和块石等四种护面块体在五种波向角(0°,15°,30°,45°和60°)的斜向波和多向不规则波作用下的稳定性,给出了四种护面块体稳定重量的实用计算方法.     

季节性层结对孤立内波作用于圆柱载荷的影响

On the basis of Morison＇s empirical formula and modal separation method in estimating the force and torque exerted by internal solitary waves （ISWs） on a cylindrical pile, it is found that the loads exerted by the ISWs change largely in different seasons at the same site of the continental shelf in the South China Sea （SCS） even under the condition that the amplitudes of ISWs are the same. Thus, the effect of a seasonal water stratification variation on the force and torque exerted by the ISWs is investigated, and a three-parameter stratification model is employed. It is shown that the loads exerted by the ISWs depend largely on the wa- ter stratification. The stronger the water stratification, the larger the force and the torque; when the depth where the maximum thermocline appears is deepened, the force decreases but the torque increases; when the width of the thermocline is narrowed, the force increases but the torque decreases. The seasonal varia- tion of the force and the torque exerted by the ISWs in four seasons in the SCS is thus explained. Key words： internal solitary waves, force, torque, water stratification, South China Sea     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

Penetration depth of the dynamic response of seabed induced by internal solitary waves

We use flume experiments and numerical modeling to examine the penetration depth of internal solitary waves (ISWs) on partially saturated porous sandy silt and clayey silt seabed. The results of the experiment and model showed that the instantaneous excess pore water pressure in both the sandy silt and clayey silt seabed followed the same trend of decreasing with the seabed depth. In general, the excess pore water pressure generated by the sandy silt was bigger than that by clayey silt at the same depth. The ISW-induced excess pore water pressure greatly influenced the surface seabed and showed a linear relationship. The penetration depth was approximately one order of magnitude smaller than the half-wavelength of the ISWs, which might be larger than the penetration depth induced by surface waves. Our study results are helpful for understanding the damage that ISWs inflict upon the seabed and for informing future field experiments designed to directly measure the interaction between ISWs and seabed sediments.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Wave run-up on slender circular cylindrical foundations for offshore wind turbines in nonlinear random waves

A practical method for estimating the wave run-up height on a slender circular cylindrical foundation for wind turbines in nonlinear random waves is provided. The approach is based on the velocity stagnation head theory and Stokes second order wave theory by assuming the basic harmonic wave motion to be a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. Comparisons are made with measurements by De Vos et al. (2007), and some of the highest wave run-up events that were predicted agree with those measured.     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

海浪产生磁场的能量分布计算

结合前人在海浪功率谱研究以及海浪产生磁场两方面的研究,求出了海浪-磁场系统的传递函数,计算了传递函数的峰值、对应的峰值频率,分析了这些指标随高度的变化.根据理论分析,给出了感应磁场总功率的表达式和峰值频率满足的方程,指出海浪感应磁场是一个窄带随机过程.最后选择几种典型的海浪谱,计算了它们感应的磁场功率谱以及总功率、功率谱峰值、峰值频率以及等效噪声带宽.     

Dynamic pressures on inclined cylinders due to freak waves

The dynamic pressure distribution around a cylinder tilted along and against the principal wave direction is measured. The cylinder was exposed to the action of random waves in the presence and absence of extreme waves. Six inclinations from the vertical plane, three along and three against the wave direction, were considered. The cylinder in upright position was also studied. The variation of dimensionless peak pressure (pressure maximum/average highest one-third wave height, H_1/3) with the relative wave height (maximum wave height/H_1/3) for locations facing the wave and at the rear of the cylinder for different angles of inclinations of the cylinder are reported for the two kinds of waves mentioned earlier. The statistical properties of the different asymmetries in the pressure traces are also discussed.     

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

两层流体中内波作用下Spar平台运动响应

研究两层流体中Spar平台在内波作用下的运动响应问题。在线性势流理论框架,提出在内波作用下Spar平台运动响应及分段式悬链线系泊张力特性的计算方法。数值分析两层流体内界面位置、入射内波的波长以及系泊索初始预张力对Spar平台运动响应及其系泊索张力特性的影响规律,结果表明内波对Spar平台纵摇运动响应的影响是小的,但对Spar平台纵荡与垂荡运动响应及其系泊索张力的影响是不可忽视的。因此,在Spar平台的设计中,考虑内波的影响是重要的。     

Modelling linear wave transformation induced by dissipative structures—Random waves

The relevant theory is presented and numerical results are compared with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical porous circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed. Results for unidirectional and multidirectional wave spectra are compared to those obtained for regular waves. The model presented reproduces well the analytical results and provides a tool for analysing several engineering problems.     

Surface tension effects on energy dissipation by small scale,experimental breaking waves

Much of the existing knowledge about breaking waves comes from physical model experiments scaled using Froude's law. A widely held assumption is that surface tension effects are not significant at typical laboratory scales and specifically for waves longer than 2 m. Since, however, smaller wavelengths are not untypical in small to medium scale laboratory facilities, a consideration of surface tension effects is indeed important. Although some emphasis has been given in the past, little is known regarding the importance of surface tension following impingement of the breaking-wave crest and especially on the overall energy dissipation by laboratory breaking waves.     

次重力波对宽刈幅高度计海表面高度观测的影响

次重力波(Infragravity Wave,IGW)是一种频率较低(0.05～0.005 Hz),波长较长(约10 km)的表面重力波。由IGW引起的海表面高度变化会被宽刈幅干涉高度计SWOT(Surface Water and Ocean Topography,SWOT)卫星观测到,因此在使用SWOT观测的海表面高度来反演中尺度、次中尺度大洋环流时,IGW是一种重要的误差来源。根据数值模型模拟的全球IGW时空分布特征,本文以IGW最为活跃的东北太平洋和欧洲西北陆架附近大西洋为研究海域,估算了上述海域由IGW所引起的海表面高度变化,并将计算结果与SWOT Simulator模拟的轨道噪声(±5 cm)比较,首次定量地估算了IGW在SWOT观测海表面高度时的干扰程度。研究表明,IGW所引起的厘米量级的海表面高度变化在SWOT卫星观测海表面流场时是一种重要的,不可忽略的误差来源。在大西洋欧洲西北陆架海域,冬季IGW对海表面高度的贡献可达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的25%;然而,对于大陆架狭窄的美国西岸太平洋而言,由岸线产生的IGW将迅速传入深海海域,在广阔的范围内产生显著的"噪声"影响,在SWOT反演海表面流场时由IGW引起的误差将达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的15%。     

浅水中浮体在波浪作用下运动的三维时域计算模型

港口中系泊船在波浪作用下运动问题的本质是浅水波浪与浮体的相互作用。与深水情况不同,浅水问题应当考虑水底、水域边界的影响及浅水波浪自身的特性,单一模型很难实现该模拟过程。为此,建立了Boussinesq方程计算入射波和Laplace方程计算散射波的全时域组合计算模型。有限元法求解的Boussinesq方程能使入射波充分考虑到水底、水域边界的影响和浅水波浪的特性;散射波被线性化,采用边界元法求解,并以浮体运动时的物面条件为入射波和散射波求解的匹配条件。该方法为完全的时域方法,计算网格不随时间变动,计算过程较为方便。通过与实验及其他数值方法的结果进行比较,验证了本模型对非线性波面、浮体的运动都有比较理想的计算结果,显示了本模型对非线性问题具有较好的计算能力。     

A simple estimation of the force exerted by internal solitons on cylindrical piles

Internal solitons can bring about strong force on the oil drilling platform and pipeline at sea, which causes severe threat to the ocean engineering. Cai et al. (2003) introduced Morison's empirical formula, modal separation method and regression analyses to estimate the forces exerted by internal soliton on cylindrical piles. However, this method is very complicated and it requires some observational current data which are generally very difficult to obtain synchronically. In this paper, it is shown that the force by the first mode internal wave dominates most part of the global force, thus a new simple estimation method of the force based on only the first mode internal wave is put forward without some complicated steps and observational current data in the old method. The force can be estimated by the local vertical observational temperature, salinity data and amplitude of internal soliton.     

Laboratory investigations on impulsive waves caused by underwater landslide

Laboratory investigations have been performed on the submarine landslide generated waves by performing 120 laboratory tests. Both rigid and deforming-slide masses are considered. The effects of bed slope angle, initial submergence, slide geometry, shape and deformation on impulse wave characteristics have been inspected. Impulse wave amplitude, period, energy and nonlinearity are studied in this work. The effects of bed slope angle on energy conversion from slide into wave are also investigated. Laboratory-based prediction equations are presented for impulse wave amplitude and period in near and far-field and are successfully verified using the available data in previous laboratory and numerical works.