Changes of equatorial wind fields in the Western Pacific and El Nino

The relationship between SST in the Eastern Pacific and equatorial wind fields in the Western Pacific is analysed by using COADS.It is pointed out that in the year before El Nino , the continuative easterly anomalies and the meridional anomalies blowing from the Equator to both sides in the Equatorial Western Pacific cause the sea level in the Western Pacific to rise higher than in the Eastern Pacific and the sea level at the Equator to drop lower than on both sides of it. In the El Nino year, the westerly anomalies and the meridional anomalies blowing from both sides to the Equator bring warm water to build up around the Equator. At such times Kelvin waves are generated and they play an important role in raising SST in the Eastern Pacific. It is also emphatically pointed out that in the El Nino year the two maxima of the equatorial westerly anomalies, the two cross-equatorial air flows from the Northern Hemisphere to the Southern one and the two maxima of the near-equatorial tropical cyclones in the Eq     

Effects of wind waves of the Pacific westerly on the eastern Pacific wave transport

There exists a tongueshaped swelldominance pool known as Swell Pool (SP) in the Eastern Pacific region. The monthlymean wave transports (WT) for each month of 2000 is computed using the wave products of ECMWF reanalysis data. By comparing the 2000 monthlymean WT and monthlymean wind field from QUICKSCAT, large differences are found between the wave transport direction and the wind direction over the Eastern Pacific. This may serve as an evidence for the existence of the SP in this region. The work done in this study indicates that the sources of swell in the Tropical Eastern Pacific (TEP) are in the westerly regions of the Southern and Northern Pacific.     

北太平洋海浪场和风场特征分析

利用欧洲中尺度天气预报中心(ECMWF——European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts)的1979年1月2014年12月逐6 h的ERA-Interim有效波高和10 m风场资料,分析了近36年期间北太平洋海域海浪场和风场的变化特征。结果表明:1)中低纬度的西北太平洋波高有逐年线性递增趋势,大约在0.2~0.6 cm/a,而低纬度的太平洋东北部海域则以-0.4~-0.2 cm/a的趋势减小。2)风速线性变化趋势显著的区域主要集中在太平洋东北部低纬度海域,约以1.0~2.0 cm/(s·a)的速度在增加。而日本岛四周、菲律宾半岛以南等海域大都以-1.0~-0.5 cm/(s·a)的速度减小。3)北太平洋海域波高和风速都具有明显的季节变化特征,两者具有很强的相关性。西风带内有一个个波高超过10 m的风暴圈,其波高受风浪和涌浪的双重作用。这可为航海、海洋工程设计、军事及海洋能开发与利用等方面提供科学依据。     

The temporal and spatial variations in the Pacific wind and wave fields for the period 2002–2011

本文利用第三代海浪模式（WAVEWATCH III）分析了2002-2011年太平洋风速和海浪场的时空变化特征。首先,使用浮标观测数据对模式模拟的有效波高结果进行验证。结果表明模式可以有效地后报太平洋的有效波高。模式偏差较大的区域为中低纬度地区。随后将太平洋分为多个子区域,分别讨论了其风速和有效波高的时空变化特征。多年平均太平洋风速和有效波高存在类似的纬向分布特征,各子区域之间风速和有效波高的季节变化存在差别。模式刻画的太平洋有效波高年际变化最大的区域为南半球中高纬区域。进一步,我们研究了波浪能量的输入与耗散。相应的源函数项的各区域平均值显示了量化的表面波的变化。最后,对日平均的风速与有效波高值进行功率谱分析寻找序列的显著周期。结果表明有效波高时间变化对应的频谱和风速谱具有一定的差异。     

叠加风场在南海台风浪数值后报中的应用研究

根据经验风场与NCEP再分析风场的优缺点,采用两者相叠加的方式构造了一种叠加风场,与实测风速资料对比验证显示该风场精度较高。以叠加风场数据为输入,采用WAVEWATCH Ⅲ模式对南海海域有显著影响的8场台风进行计算,结果显示叠加风场计算南海台风浪具有较高的精度和可靠性。     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves

On the basis of data on the statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves reported in part I of this series, a self-consistent similarity regime is found to exist among properties of the individual waves, such as the nondimensional frequency, the wave number, the phase speed, and the steepness. Also, it is shown that forms of past empirical formulas for the development of the peak wave can be derived starting from the 3/2-power law, as an extension of the persent laboratory experimental data. In the derivation, only values of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law, and the fraction of momentum transferred from the wind retained by the wind waves, remain on an empirical basis.     

Negative correlations of variations in near-water wind and surface wind waves

The relationship between the intensity of surface wind waves and near-water wind is analyzed. The data of measuring wind waves and near-water wind under natural conditions in the Black Sea (July 2004) and Norwegian Sea (June 2003, 16th cruise of the R/V Akademik Sergei Vavilov) are used. A phenomenon of negative correlations has been found between the intensity of wind waves and near-water wind in regions of substantial restructuring of wind waves in the field of inhomogeneous flows: wind-wave amplification during wind decay and vice versa. Examples of such observations are presented, a theoretical model is constructed for the observed phenomenon, and a good agreement is obtained between theory and experiment.     

Duality of turbulence and wave in wind waves

The three-seconds power law for wind waves of simple spectra, already derived byToba (1972 and 1973), may also be derived by introducing surface-wave properties into the form of the rate of energy dissipation in the theory of turbulence. The universal constantB, which was formerly determined empirically as 0.062 is here obtained asB=(2)^–3/2=0.0635. Thus wind waves have the duality of turbulence and wave.     

On the non-Gaussian nature of wind waves

The asymmetry and curtosis for different wave conditions have been computed using experimentally-derived measurement data on sea surface roughness. It is shown that the asymmetry and curtosis values are essentially different from zero and practically do not depend on the slope of waves and their age.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The steepness and shape of wind waves

Variations are found in the shape and the steepness of wind-generated surface gravity waves between very young waves, such as seen in a laboratory tank, and larger waves of various wave ages encountered at sea as the result of wind stress over larger fetches. These differences in the characteristic shape of wind waves are presented as a function of the wave age. The wave steepness is also expressed as a function of wave age, the measurement of which is consistent with the 3/2-power law connecting wave height and characteristic period, normalized by the air friction velocity.     

Coupled modeling of currents and wind waves in the Kerch Strait

We present a numerical model of the dynamics of the Kerch Strait allowing one to perform the coordinated analysis of the fields of currents and wind waves. The model includes the spectral wave module and the hydrodynamic block of currents. The influence of waves on the currents is taken into account in the hydrodynamic block both via the surface and bottom tangential stresses and via the radiation stresses. In order to take into account the inverse influence of currents upon the waves, we use the fields of currents and sea level from the hydrodynamic block in the wave module. The specific features of the structure of currents and wind waves in the strait are studied for the typical wave situations. The results of the coupled and separate simulation are compared and the importance of taking into account the mechanisms of interaction between waves and currents in the analysis of the dynamic processes in the strait is demonstrated. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 5, pp. 3–20, September–October, 2007.     

赤道太平洋西风爆发事件的时空特征

赤道太平洋西风爆发事件(简称“西风事件”)对厄尔尼诺有重要的触发作用。基于ERA-Interim和NCEP2(NCEP-DOE Reanalysis 2)风场资料以及OI(NOAA OI SST V2 High Resolution Dataset)海表面温度资料,本文对西风事件的时空特征进行了研究诊断,并初步分析了ENSO(ElNi?o-Southern Oscillation)对西风事件的影响。结果显示,西风事件发展初期主要集中在中西部太平洋,季节性变化表现为冬春季较强,夏秋季较弱。西风事件频次和强度都有一定的年际变化特征,其中中太平洋西风事件的强度与ENSO信号的关系更紧密。当Ni?o3.4指数大于1℃时,西风事件的频次和强度与ENSO信号相关性好;当Ni?o3.4指数小于1℃时,西风事件频次的随机性增加,但其强度仍受到赤道中东太平洋海温异常信号的制约。     

Climatic structure of the wind fields in the Black-Sea region

For the Black-Sea region, we perform the dynamic reanalysis of the data on atmospheric circulation for the period 1958–2001 by using the HadRM3P model with a space resolution of 25 km. We estimate the mean climatic atmospheric fields of vorticity and divergence of the wind velocity and study their space structure and seasonal variability. The climatic estimates of the annual course of vorticity of the wind velocity over the sea are presented. The obtained large annual average values of vorticity of the velocity reveal the predominant role played by the wind action in the generation not only of the seasonal variability but also of the mean cyclonic circulation of waters in the Black Sea.     

实验室长波引起的风浪低频频移

利用实验室波浪水槽观测规则长波对风浪的影响。谱分析显示,较之纯风浪谱,除已被广泛关注的长波抑制风浪这一现象外,当长波波陡较小,且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波还使得风浪谱向低频移动。利用Longuet-HigginsStewart(1960)理论,并考虑到风浪破碎的约束,计算了规则长波的存在对风浪谱的影响,发现可以较好地解释这一现象。表明当长波波陡小且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波对短波的二阶调制及其引起的破碎加强可能是长波影响风浪的主要机制。     

Observation of mixed Rossby-gravity waves in the Western equatorial Pacific

During the IOP (Intensive Observation Period) of TOGA/COARE (Tropical Ocean and Global Atmosphere/Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Response Experiment) from December 1992 to February 1993, four Japanese moored ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers) measured vertical profiles of three-component velocities at the stations 2S (2°S, 156°E), 2N (2°N, 156°E), 154E (0°N, 154°E) and 147E (0°N, 147°E). Power spectra of the surface current showed a pronounced peak having a period of around 14 days for both the zonal and meridional velocities at the stations 2S and 2N near the equator, and for only the meridional velocity at the equator. This 14-day phenomenon is considered to be a kind of equatorial wave of the first baroclinic mode, from a comparison of the result of the vertical mode analysis and the vertical distribution of the standard deviation of band-pass filtered velocity fluctuations. A dispersion relationship obtained from the horizontal mode analysis of this wave confirmed that the 14-day phenomenon is a mixed Rossby-gravity wave with the westward propagating phase speed and eastward propagating group velocity. From the cross-spectral analysis of velocity data, the average phase speed and wavelength of the wave were estimated as 3.64 m s⁻¹ and 3939 km, respectively, for station pair 2S∼147E. These values were in good agreement with the average phase speed and wavelength of 3.58 m s⁻¹ and 3836 km estimated from the dispersion curve and the observed period. A northerly wind burst blew over all the mooring sites during the middle of the observation period. The mixed Rossby-gravity wave, which is anti-symmetric for the zonal velocity about the equator, is likely to be forced by this northerly wind burst crossing the equator. Generation of the oceanic mixed Rossby-gravity wave of the first baroclinic mode is discussed in association with the atmospheric Rossby wave having the same period.     

Directional energy distribution of wind waves

Two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum developing under the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations is linearly correlated with that of wind pressure itself, so that angular distribution of energy of ocean surface waves can be determined by directional properties of surface pressure fluctuations with the same frequency to the surface wave.From empirically determined spectral formula of the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations the coefficients of Fourier series expanded around mean direction of wind are analytically integrated, from which r.m.s. angular distribution, spectral peakedness and long-crestedness are calculated, compared with previously proposed empirical formulae and observations carried out by ultrasonic current meter.     

The interaction of surface waves in the presence of wind

Zakharov's equation is applied to study numerically the evolution of wave amplitudes. It is demonstrated that, owing to Krasitskii's new kernel functions, the system of surface waves remains Hamiltonian, in contrast to the former approaches used by Yuen, Lake, and Zakharov. If surface waves are wind-generated, they grow and become stochastic. If the effect of the waves on the wind is considered, then the wave amplitude evolution, similar to the no-wind case, continues to be recurrent. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Dispersal of droplets over breaking wind waves under the direct action of wind

This paper describes the dispersal of droplets over breaking wind waves under the direct action of wind, based on a comparison between the actual distribution of droplet velocity and the wind field measured in a wind-wave tank (reference wind speed 16 m sec^–1). The velocity distribution of droplets with a diameterd>0.81 mm over breaking wind waves was measured by Koga (1981). In this paper the wind field over breaking wind waves is measured by a flow visualization technique using styrofoam flakes as a tracer. The comparison allows a clear interpretation of droplet movement over the wave profile, and shows that the horizontal movement of the droplets ofd>0.81 mm is approximately determined by acceleration by the wind while their vertical movement is determined by acceleration due to gravity. These observations offer some support for the dispersion model proposed by Koga and Toba (1981).