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1.
We investigated the atmospheric processes and physics that were active during a tsunami-like event hitting Boothbay Harbor area (Maine, USA) on 28 October 2008. The data collected by tide gauges, ground and sounding stations and meteo–ocean buoys in the area were analyzed, together with satellite and radar images. The atmospheric processes were reproduced by the weather research and forecasting model, verified by in situ and remote sensing data. A cold front moved over the area at the time of the event, with embedded convective clouds detected by satellite and radar data and the internal gravity waves (IGWs) detected by radar and reproduced by the model at the rear of the frontal precipitation band. According to the model, the IGWs that passed over Boothbay Harbor generated strong ground air-pressure oscillations reaching 2.5 hPa/3 min. The IGWs were ducted towards the coast without significant dissipation, propagating in a stable near-surface layer capped by an instability at approximately 3.5 km height and satisfying all conditions for their maintenance over larger areas. The intensity, speed and direction of the IGWs were favourable for generation of a meteotsunami wave along the Gulf of Maine shelf. Operational observation systems were not capable of sufficiently capturing the ground disturbance due to a too coarse sampling rate, while the numerical model was found to be a useful tool in eventual future detection and warning systems.  相似文献   

2.
Tide gauge data were used to identify the occurrence, characteristics, and cause of tsunamis of meteorological origin (termed ‘meteotsunamis’) along the Western Australian coast. This is the first study to identify meteotsunamis in this region, and the results indicated that they occur frequently. Although meteotsunamis are not catastrophic to the extent of major seismically induced basin-scale events, the wave heights of meteotsunamis examined at some local stations in this study were higher than those recorded through seismic tsunamis. In June 2012, a meteotsunami contributed to an extreme water-level event at Fremantle, which recorded the highest water level in over 115 years. Meteotsunamis (wave heights >0.4 m, when the mean tidal range in the region is ~0.5 m) were found to coincide with thunderstorms in summer and the passage of low-pressure systems during winter. Spectral analysis of tide gauge time series records showed that existing continental seiche oscillations (periods between 30 min and 5 h) were enhanced during the meteotsunamis, with a high proportion of energy transferred to the continental shelf oscillation period. Three recent meteotsunami events (22 March 2010, 10 June 2012, and 7 January 2013) two due to summer thunderstorms and one due to a winter frontal system were chosen for detailed analysis. The meteotsunami amplitudes were up to a factor 2 larger than the local tidal range and sometimes contributed up to 85 % of the non-tidal water signal. A single meteorological event was found to generate several meteotsunamis along the coast, up to 500 km apart, as the air pressure disturbance propagated over the continental shelf; however, the topography and local bathymetry of the continental shelf defined the local sea-level resonance characteristics at each location. With the available data (sea level and meteorological), the exact mechanisms for the generation of the meteotsunamis could not be isolated.  相似文献   

3.
To support development of a meteotsunami forecasting capability for the USA, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration funded a project in 2011 focused on meteotsunami forecasting for the US east coast. Meteotsunami forecasting shares many similarities with traditional tsunami forecasting, though the characterization and integration of the source with numerical forecast models is much different. Given meteotsunami source characterization through atmospheric observations and models, it is conceivable that meteotsunami alerts could be issued and their impact forecasted using existing tsunami forecast models with high-resolution coastal definition. To test this, the 2008 Boothbay, Maine, meteotsunami is simulated using an atmospheric source consisting of a moving pressure disturbance coupled with a tsunami forecast model. Sensitivities of the modeled impact to the source characteristics, such as speed, wavelength, and direction, are also tested. Results show that the observed impact can be re-created through numerical modeling when the pressure disturbance period is roughly matched with the harbor resonance and observed meteotsunami period.  相似文献   

4.
We present four case studies of exceptional wave events of meteorological origin, observed on the Finnish coast in the summers of 2010 and 2011. Eyewitnesses report unusually rapid and strong sea-level variations (up to 1 m in 5–15 min) and strong oscillating currents during these events. High-resolution sea-level measurements confirm the eyewitness observations, but the oscillations recorded by tide gauges mostly have a considerably smaller amplitude. The oscillations coincide with sudden jumps in surface air pressure at coastal observation stations, related to the passage of squall lines or gust fronts. These fronts propagate above the sea at a resonant speed, allowing efficient energy transfer between the atmospheric disturbance and the sea wave that it generates. Thus, we interpret the observed sea-level oscillations as small meteotsunamis, long tsunami-like waves generated by meteorological processes and resonance effects.  相似文献   

5.
High frequency sea level oscillations at Wells Harbor (Maine, Northeastern US), with periods in the range of several tens of minutes, display a tidally modulated response. During low tides, these sea level oscillations reach amplitudes of 10–20 cm, while during high tides they are significantly smaller. Wells Harbor is located in a low lying area with a tidal range of about 2 m and is connected to the open ocean through a narrow channel. Thus, the extent and depth of the bay significantly vary over a tidal cycle. This changing geometry determines both the resonant periods and the amplification factor of the bay. Numerical results confirm the link between observed variability and these specific topographic features. Results imply that when exceptionally energetic long waves reach the Wells Harbor entrance (as in the case of a tsunami or meteotsunami) the expected response will be significantly stronger during low tide than during high tide. Although mean sea level would be lower in the former case, the currents inside the bay would be stronger and potentially more dangerous. This tidally modulated response could be extrapolated to other sites with similar topographic characteristics.  相似文献   

6.
Analysis of 20-year time series of water levels in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico has revealed that meteotsunamis are ubiquitous in this region. On average, 1–3 meteotsunamis with wave heights >0.5 m occur each year in this area. The probability of meteotsunami occurrence is highest during March–April and June–August. Meteotsunamis in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico can be triggered by winter and summer extra-tropical storms and by tropical cyclones. In northwestern Florida most of the events are triggered by winter storms, while in west and southwest Florida they appear both in winter and summer. Atmospheric pressure and wind anomalies (periods <6 h) associated with the passage of squalls originated the majority of the observed meteotsunami events. The most intense meteotsunamigenic periods took place during El Niño periods (1997–1998, 2009–2010 and 2015–2016). Meteotsunamis were also active in 2005, a year characterized by exceptionally intense tropical cyclone activity. Meteotsunami incidence varied yearly and at periods between 2 and 5 years. Results from cross-wavelet analysis suggested that El Niño and meteotsunami activity are correlated at annual and longer-period bands.  相似文献   

7.
Sheremet  Alex  Gravois  Uriah  Shrira  Victor 《Natural Hazards》2016,84(2):471-492
The paper reports unique high-resolution observations of meteotsunami by a large array of oceanographic instruments deployed on the Atchafalaya Shelf (Louisiana, USA) in 2008 with the primary aim to study wave dissipation in muddy environments. The meteotsunami event on March 7, 2008, was caused by the passage of a cold front which was monitored by the NOAA NEXRAD radar. The observations of water surface elevations on the shelf show a highly detailed textbook picture of an undular bore (solibore) in the process of its disintegration into a train of solitons. The picture has a striking feature never reported before not only for the meteotsunamis but in other contexts of disintegration of a long-wave perturbation into a sequence of solitons as well—the persistent presence of a single soliton, well ahead of the solibore. Data analysis and simulations based on the celebrated variable-coefficient KdV (vKdV) equation first proposed by Ostrovsky and Pelinovsky (Izv Atmos Ocean Phys 11:37–41, 1975) explain the physics of this phenomenon and suggest that the formation of the lone soliton ahead of the solibore is very likely to be the result of the specific interplay of natural meteotsunami forcing and nearshore bathymetry. The analysis strongly suggests that the patterns of coexisting lone solitons and packets of cnoidal waves should be quite common for meteotsunamis. They were not observed before only because of the scarcity of high-resolution observations. The results highlight the effectiveness of the vKdV equation in providing understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of the complex natural phenomenon that would otherwise require computationally very expensive numerical models.  相似文献   

8.
On July 15, 2009, a meteotsunami occurred over Tsushima Strait and flood damage was recorded on the west coast of Tsushima Island. This study investigated the meteorological systems related to that meteotsunami event using surface observation data, grid-point value data, and a mesoscale meteorological model. The mid-latitude trough in the mid-troposphere approached the moist air of the Baiu precipitation system, and a cold downdraft occurred over a wide area of western Japan. In the western Tsushima Strait, the warm, moist air of the lower atmosphere kept the front of the cold downdraft stationary. Around this area, an atmospheric gravity wave was generated continuously with the wave-conditional instability of the second kind mechanism and propagated toward Tsushima Island. The atmospheric gravity wave generated a pressure disturbance at sea level, which produced the meteotsunami. The frequency of the pressure disturbance using the numerical model had a peak in the 5- to 20-min period range, which corresponded with the peak frequency range of the observed tidal records.  相似文献   

9.
A very severe cyclonic storm ‘Thane’ developed over the Bay of Bengal during 25–30 December 2011, crossed the Tamilnadu coast between Pondicherry and Cuddalore (southeast coast of India) in early hours of 30 December with a wind speed 120–140 km/h. The offshore tide record reveals that the surge started to generate around 1100 hours on 29 December 2011 with a height 0.4 m and later raised to 0.68 m at the time of land fall, that is, early hours (0000 hours) of 30 December 2011. Field reconnaissance survey on surge run-up and inundation distance at 15 selected locations of cyclone affected areas reveals that the vulnerability levels are highly variable along the coast. The inundation distance extended up to 30–230 m landward from the shoreline and run-up reached to 1.6–3.2 m above chart datum depending upon the cross-shore geometry of the location. In the areas (Verranampattinam, Chinamudaliyar kuppam and Silver beach) near cyclone landfall, the run-up was up to 2.5–3.2 m and the inundation distance extended up to a maximum of 230 m. However, in the areas located about 150 km north of cyclone landfall, the run-up limited from 1.6 to 1.7 m and the inundation distance extended up to only a maximum of 169 m. The inundation distance is mainly influenced by the slope of the beach. In the areas having beach slope between 1 in 135 and 1 in 220, the inundation distance was 210–230 m. However, in the areas having beach slope 1 in 17 to 1 in 34, the inundation distance is restricted between 35 and 50 m.  相似文献   

10.
Thiruchendur coast of southern Tamilnadu, India has been studied for grain-size spectrum and textural parameters namely mean, sorting, skewness and kurtosis. The grain-size spectrum shows a marked variation in the berm, high tide line (HTL) and low tide line (LTL) stretches. Variation in energy condition is controlled by geomorphology of the sedimentary beach. Textural pattern shows complicated profile as a result of the fluctuation in the physicochemical conditions due to the sediments and the marine interactions. Abundance of the medium sand to fine sand shows the prevalence of comparatively moderate- to low-energy condition in the Thiruchendur area. Linear discriminate function of the samples indicates an aeolian, shallow marine deposition environment and less influence of fluvial (7 %) process. CM diagram (C = one percentile in microns M = medium in microns) of Thiruchendur coast sediments suggests that deposition takes place by (1) rolling, (2) bottom suspension, (3) graded suspension. This is also supported by the wave energy in different stretches in beach line and also tractive current figure implies the sediments disturbed by the tractive and turbidity currents. The heavy minerals are concentrated in the berm (average, 11.8 %) and high tide line (average, 11.2 %) because of high-energy condition and aeolian action. Quartz microtextures show the mechanical action due to high-energy condition in Manapad and Kuduthalai areas, the chemical action because of to low-energy condition along the Thiruchendur, Kallamozhi areas.  相似文献   

11.
The ability of the SMARA storm surge numerical prediction system to reproduce local effects in estuarine and coastal winds was recently improved by considering one-way coupling of the air–sea momentum exchange through the wave stress, and best forecasting practices for downscaling. The inclusion of long period atmospheric pressure forcing in tide and tide/surge calculations corrected a systematic error in the surge, produced by the South Atlantic Ocean quasi-stationary pressure patterns. The maximum forecast range for the storm surge at Buenos Aires provided by the real-time use of water level observations is approximately 12 h. The best available water level prediction is the 6-h forecast (nowcast) based on the closest water level observations. The 24-h forecast from the numerical models slightly improves this nowcast. Although the numerical forecast accuracy degrades after the first 48 h, the improvement to the full range observation-based prediction is maintained at the inner Río de la Plata area and extends to the first 3 days at the intermediate navigation channels.  相似文献   

12.
The main semidiurnal (M2 and S2) and diurnal (K1 and O1) tidal constituents are simulated in the Persian Gulf (PG). The topography is discretized on a spherical grid with a resolution of 30 s in both latitude and longitude. It includes coastal areas prone to flooding. The model permits flooding of drying banks up to 5 m above mean sea level. At the open boundary, it is forced by 13 harmonic constituents extracted from a global tidal model. The model results are in good agreement with tide gauge observations. Co-tidal charts and flow extremes are presented for each tidal constituent. The co-tidal charts show two amphidromic points for semidiurnal and one for diurnal tidal constituents. Maximum amplitudes of sea level are obtained for the north-western part of the PG, where coastal flooding prevails in wide areas. Strong tidal currents occur in different parts of the PG for different types of constituents. Maximum velocities are found in shallow regions. Particularly, high amplitudes of elevations and high speed currents are founded in the canal between Qeshm Island and the mainland. Rectification of tides around Qeshm Island affects the propagation of tides in the PG as far as the coast of Saudi Arabia and the northern part of the PG.  相似文献   

13.
Meteorological tsunamis are frequently observed in different tide stations at the southeastern coast of South America. They are associated with the occurrence of atmospheric gravity waves during the passages of cold fronts over the Buenos Aires Province continental shelf. On the other hand, storm surges are also frequent in the region, and they are associated with strong and persistent southerlies, which are also frequent during cold front passages. The impact of meteorological tsunamis in coastal erosion and in the statistics of storm surge trends is discussed in this paper. For this study, fifteen meteorological tsunamis (with maximum wave heights higher than 0.20 m), seven of them simultaneous to the occurrence of storm surge events (with extreme levels higher than |±0.60 m|), are selected from April 2010 to January 2013. The impact of meteorological tsunamis in the storm erosion potential index (SEPI) is evaluated. Not significant differences are obtained between SEPI calculated with and without filtering the meteorological tsunami signal from the storm surge data series. Moreover, several experiments are carried out computing SEPI from synthetic sea level data series, but very low changes (lower than 4 %) are also obtained. It is concluded that the presence of moderate meteorological tsunamis on sea level records would not enhance this index at the Buenos Aires Province coast. On the other hand, taking into account that meteorological tsunamis can reach up the 20–30 % of the storm surge height, it was concluded that the statistics of storm surge trends (and their uncertainties) should be revised for Mar del Plata data series.  相似文献   

14.
Here we perform an inventory of tsunamis recorded by tide gauges in the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. This paper also reveals nine tsunami records that had not been published before, at Puntarenas tide gauge corresponding to the 1979 Colombia tsunami and at Quepos tide gauge corresponding to the 1985 Mexico twin tsunamis, the 2010, 2014 and 2015 Chile tsunamis, the 2006 Tonga tsunami, the 2011 Japan tsunami and the 2013 Solomon Islands tsunami. The original record of 1990 Cóbano tsunami at Quepos was digitized again at a higher resolution and re-processed. The arrival of 1979, 1985, 2006 and 2014 tsunamis to Costa Rica is not listed on tsunami catalogs. The maximum tsunami height obtained here after processing 1990, 2011 and 2013 records was higher than reported on catalogs. The opposite happened for the 2010 tsunami. Quepos gauge record for January 2007 was analyzed as it seemed to have registered the Kuril Islands tsunami, but the results were not conclusive due to the low sample rate and the small tsunami amplitude if any. All those eleven tsunamis were modeled and the results compared with the records. A good agreement was obtained for the Quepos gauge, although the modeled 2011 and 2013 tsunamis had a difference of 8 min on the arrival time. An acceptable agreement was obtained for the Puntarenas gauge for 1979 tsunami, considering at least the first 4 h of the marigram is lost.  相似文献   

15.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(3):721-744
Storm surges generated by tropical cyclones have been considered a primary process for building coarse‐sand beach ridges along the north‐eastern Queensland coast, Australia. This interpretation has led to the development of palaeotempestology based on the beach ridges. To better identify the sedimentary processes responsible for these ridges, a high‐resolution chronostratigraphic analysis of a series of ridges was carried out at Cowley Beach, Queensland, a meso‐tidal beach system with a >3 m tide range. Optically stimulated luminescence ages indicate that 10 ridges accreted seaward over the last 2500 to 2700 years. The ridge crests sit +3·5 to 5·1 m above Australian Height Datum (ca mean sea‐level). A ground‐penetrating radar profile shows two distinct radar facies, both of which are dissected by truncation surfaces. Hummocky structures in the upper facies indicate that the nucleus of the beach ridge forms as a berm at +2·5 m Australian Height Datum, equivalent to the fair‐weather swash limit during high tide. The lower facies comprises a sequence of seaward‐dipping reflections. Beach progradation thus occurs via fair‐weather‐wave accretion of sand, with erosion by storm waves resulting in a sporadic sedimentary record. The ridge deposits above the fair‐weather swash limit are primarily composed of coarse and medium sands with pumice gravels and are largely emplaced during surge events. Inundation of the ridges is more likely to occur in relation to a cyclone passing during high tide. The ridges may also include an aeolian component as cyclonic winds can transport beach sand inland, especially during low tide, and some layers above +2·5 m Australian Height Datum are finer than aeolian ripples found on the backshore. Coarse‐sand ridges at Cowley Beach are thus products of fair‐weather swash and cyclone inundation modulated by tides. Knowledge of this composite depositional process can better inform the development of robust palaeoenvironmental reconstructions from the ridges.  相似文献   

16.
Modeling of tide–aquifer interaction plays a vital role in the management of coastal aquifer systems. A novel and robust methodology is presented in this paper for estimating aquifer parameters of coastal aquifers from tide–aquifer interaction data using tide–aquifer interaction model and genetic algorithm (GA). Two stand-alone computer programs were developed to optimize hydraulic diffusivities of unconfined and confined coastal aquifers at multiple sites using GA technique and tide–aquifer interaction model and considering two approaches (‘lumped tidal component approach’ and ‘multi-tidal component approach’). Five sets of real-world tide–aquifer interaction data at two sites of an unconfined aquifer and one set of tide–aquifer interaction data at three sites of a confined aquifer were used to demonstrate the efficacy of the methodology. The analysis of the GA-based inverse modeling results indicated that the ‘multi-tidal component approach’ yields more accurate and reliable hydraulic diffusivities for the unconfined aquifer (RMSE = 0.0129–0.0521 m, NSE = 0.70–0.97, and d1 = 0.91–0.99) as well as for the confined aquifer (RMSE = 0.0204–0.0545 m, NSE = 0.95–0.97, and d1 = 0.99) compared with the ‘lumped tidal component approach’. A comparative evaluation of data-size revealed that the short-duration datasets of the unconfined aquifer provide more reliable estimate of hydraulic diffusivity than the long-duration datasets. Further, it was found that the spring and neap tidal data yield unreasonable values of hydraulic diffusivity with considerably high values of RMSE and very low values of r 2, NSE, and d1, thereby suggesting that spring and neap tidal data are not suitable for aquifer parameter estimation. Overall, it is concluded that the GA-based tide–aquifer interaction model following ‘multi-tidal component approach’ is the most efficient tool for estimating aquifer parameters of unconfined and confined aquifers from tide–aquifer interaction data. The developed methodology is also applicable to other coastal basins of the world irrespective of hydrogeological settings.  相似文献   

17.
The M w = 9.1 mega-thrust Sumatra–Andaman earthquake that occurred on December 26, 2004, was followed by a devastating tsunami that killed hundreds of thousands of people and caused catastrophic effects on human settlements and environments along many coasts of the Indian Ocean, where even countries very far from the source were affected. One of these cases is represented by the Republic of Seychelles, where the tsunami reached the region about 7 h after the earthquake and produced relevant damages, despite the country was more than 4,500 km far from the seismic source. In the present work, we present and discuss a study of the 2004 Sumatra tsunami by means of numerical simulations with the attention focused on the effects observed at the Seychelles Archipelago, a region never previously investigated with this approach. The case is interesting since these islands lay on a very shallow oceanic platform with steep slopes so as the ocean depth changes from thousands to few tens of meters over short distances, with significant effects on the tsunami propagation features: the waves are strongly refracted by the oceanic platform and the tsunami signal is modified by the introduction of additional frequencies. The study is used also to validate the UBO-TSUFD numerical code on a real tsunami event in the far field, and the results are compared with the available observations, i.e., the sea level time series recorded at the Pointe La Rue station, Mahé Island, and run-up measurements and inundation lines surveyed few weeks after the tsunami at Praslin Island, where the tsunami hit during low tide. Synthetic results are found in good agreement with observations, even though some of the observations remain not fully solved. Moreover, simulations have been run in high-tide condition since the 2004 Sumatra tsunami hitting at high tide can be taken as the worst-case scenario for the Seychelles islands and used for tsunami hazard and risk assessments.  相似文献   

18.
The rise of total water levels at the coast is caused primarily by three factors that encompass storm surges, tides and wind waves. The accuracy of total water elevation (TWE) forecast depends not only on the cyclonic track and its intensity, but also on the spatial distribution of winds which include its speed and direction. In the present study, the cyclonic winds are validated using buoy winds for the recent cyclones formed in the Bay of Bengal since 2010 using Jelesnianski wind scheme. It is found that the cyclonic winds computed from the scheme show an underestimate in the magnitude and also a mismatch in its direction. Hence, the wind scheme is suitably modified based on the buoy observations available at different locations using a power law which reduces the exponential decay of winds by about 30%. Moreover, the cyclonic wind direction is also corrected by suitably modifying its inflow angle. The significance of modified exponential factor and inflow angle in the computation cyclonic winds is highlighted using statistical analysis. A hydrodynamic finite element-based Advanced Circulation 2D depth integrated (ADCIRC-2DDI) model is used here to compute TWE as a response to combined effect of cyclonic winds and astronomical tides. As contribution of wave setup plays an important role near the coast, a coupled ADCIRC + SWAN is used to perceive the contribution of wind waves on the TWE. The experiments are performed to validate computed surge residuals with available tide gauge data. On comparison of observed surge residuals with the simulations using modified winds from the uncoupled and coupled models, it is found that the simulated surge residuals are better compared, especially with the inclusion of wave effect through the coupled model.  相似文献   

19.
Over the last 30 years El Grine coast recorded significant morphological changes leading to the shoreline progradation. Diachronic coastal evolution, through a set of satellite images data, supported by sedimentologic analysis of five sand cores have been applied to elucidate tidal flat reaction following the recent sea level rise. We found that an emerging sandy barrier and salt marsh domain were shaped by the local hydro-sedimentary processes. The marine sediments, mobilised by wave and tide currents, have been the sole sedimentary source. Recent sandy accumulations, occurred around 1987, have been able to balance a recent sea level rise. While during a mid-Holocene period, El Grine coast was governed by net erosion tendency inducing cliff recession.  相似文献   

20.
The movement of resource subsidies across natural systems can have important effects on recipient communities and has emerged as a key research area in ecology. Detrital subsidies are critical in marine ecosystems where communities are reliant on external sources of primary production, yet few studies have quantified the spatial extent of drift algae at coastal scales. Using observations of the seafloor (up to 140 m depth) from tow-camera surveys along 145 km of Nova Scotia coast, and bathymetric data of this region, we created the first predictive map of drift subsidy in a marine ecosystem. We used a random forest model to generate our predictions, which correctly classified 95 % of observations into a presence or absence of drift. Distance from source, slope, and bathymetric position index (elevation relative to surrounding landscape) was the main predictor variables of the occurrence of drift. Drift algae occurred across a range of benthic habitats within our study area, but most frequently within 1.4 km of the coast on flat bottoms or in regions with zero or negative bathymetric position index. Such areas were coincident with seafloor depressions and flat low-energy habitats. Repeated observations at some locations indicated that areas with steep slopes or large curvature tended to have variable patterns of drift compared to areas with little or no slope or curvature. We predict that deep subtidal environments receiving drift subsidy will be impacted by the declines in kelp biomass projected for this region (and others) due to changes in ocean climate.  相似文献   

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