不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

风浪方向分布模式的比较

本文对目前常用的几种风浪方向分布模式进行了分析对比，进而根据由浪高仪阵列和ＥＮＤＥＣＯ９５６测波浮标在我国各海区测得的风浪方向谱，从波能方向分布、方向累积分布、方向分布的峰值和标准差四个方面，与光易恒、Ｈａｓｓｅｌｍａｎｎ和Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ等分别由观测得到的经验方向分布以及文圣常等由解析方法得到的风浪方向谱进行了比较，结果表明：Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ分布与实测结果比较一致，文圣常谱也较接近。此外，笔者在渤海由仪器阵列实测方向谱拟合得到的方向分布（改进的光易模式）与各地实测资料也比较符合。     

Hilbert变换在波群统计中的应用——Ⅱ.波群平均历时长度和平均连长

本文报告波群统计特性研究结果的第二部分.提出用波包谱零阶、二阶矩和波面谱零阶、二阶矩计算平均历时长度和平均连长的新方法.用不规则波造波系统在水槽内产生的具有不同群性的三列不规则波作了验证,并与按Nolte和Hsu公式计算的平均历时长度和按Ewing公式计算的平均连长作了比较.验证和比较结果表明,本文提出的方法不仅可行,且具有一定的优越性.     

多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟

在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。     

不规则波作用下圆柱墩群上的波浪力

本文用谱分析方法计算了不规则波作用下圆柱墩群上的波浪力,给出了理论的群墩影响系数,文中对二个墩、三个墩,四个墩的情况分别用P-M谱与Bretshneider谱作了计算,并与规则波结果进行了比较,得到了一些有意义的结果.不规则方法得到的群墩影响系数随着墩间距的增加很快地就接近于弧立墩的情况.一般说来,当墩间距与墩径的比值大于4时,就可以不考虑群墩的相互影响.     

波浪谱在斜向流作用下的折射

本文根据二波向线间波浪作用通量守恒的原则,提出了在斜向流作用下,波浪频谱折射的分析方法和其计算程序WCINDS1,计算表明,谱分析法得出的结果较规则波分析法更为合理,在斜向流作用下频率各异的组成波,折射后的方向是不同的,此时可以谱峰频的方向角作为整个谱平均方向角的代表值.     

方向分布对波浪谱在地形水流影响下折射的影响

本文计算分析了 Pierson-Moskowitz 谱、JONSWAP 谱与 Bretschnei—der-光易谱在不同地形、水流与主波方向影响下的折射在是否计及波谱能量的方向分布的影响,计算表明波能的方向分布对于谱特征波高值及波能传播的平均方向都有不可忽视的影响。     

不规则波作用于垂直桩柱上的正向力

通过试验,研究了规则波,特别是不规则波作用于孤立桩柱上的正向力,通过测定桩上的总波浪力并利用时域最小二乘法和互谱分析法,研究了Morison公式中的系数C_D、C_M与KC数和雷诺数的关系及其随频率的变化,给出了规则波和不规则波作用下的C_D、C_M与KC数的关系曲线,此外,从波、力之间的相干数角度,对传递函数法计算不规则波浪力的适用范围也作了分析。     

海浪能量谱的折绕射研究Ⅰ——缓坡上的联合模型

本文给出缓坡上海浪能量谱的折绕射联合模型,在给定频率和谱的零阶矩下,模型简化为规则波的折绕射联合模型.文中对三种半椭圆形斜坡底形进行了数值计算,分析比较了用海浪能量谱表示的随机波的和简单波的折射模型和折绕射联合模型的计算结果,也分析了随机波的折射谱和折绕射谱的谱形变化.说明联合模型计算结果是合理的,有应用价值的.     

BSCS海浪数值预报方法

本文介绍一种适用于深、浅海的海浪数值预报模式——BSCS模式,它不仅考虑了波-波间非线性能量转移,而且包含了折射、底摩擦等浅水效应,因而具有广泛的应用性。为了求解这一方程,将计算区域依水深不同划分为不规则的三角形元,计算每个格点上以△t为时间间隔的离散谱值。时间差分用改进的两步Lax-Wendtcff格式,空间微分用空间中三角形平面对x, y方向的斜度来近似。已知条件为网格点的位置及其水深、风场等,通过计算机计算所得到的结果为方向-频率谱(或浪要素)的时空分布。     

Microbial Biomass and Organic Nutrients in the Deep-Sea Sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin

In order to assess the impact of deep-sea mining on the in situ benthic life, we measured the microbial standing stock and concentration of organic nutrients in the deep-sea sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin in the Indian pioneer area. Sediments were collected using box core and grab samples during September 1996. The total bacterial numbers ranged from 10 10 -10 11 cells per g -1 dry weight sediment. There was a marginal decrease in the number of bacteria from surface to 30 cm depth, though the subsurface section registered a higher number than did the surface. The highest numbers were encountered at depths of 4-8 cm. The retrievable number of bacteria were two orders less in comparison with the direct total counts of bacteria. An almost homogeneous distribution of bacteria, total organic carbon, living biomass, and lipids throughout the depth of cores indicates active microbial and benthic processes in the deep sea sediments. On the other hand, a uniform distribution of total counts of bacteria, carbohydrates, and total organic carbon in all the cores indicates their stable nature and suggests that they can serve as useful parameters for long-term monitoring of the area after the benthic disturbance. Further studies on temporal variability in this region would not only verify the observed norms of distribution of these variables but would also help to understand restabilization processes after the simulated benthic disturbance.     

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中桩周土强度弱化研究

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明：土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

Phylogenetic diversity and phenotypic characterization of cultivable bacterioplankton isolated from polar oceans

A set of 27 marine planktonic bacteria isolated from the polar regions was characterized by 16S rDNA sequencing and physiological and biochemical testing. More than half of these bacteria were positive for caseinase, gelatinase and 13-glucosidase, and could utilize glucose, maltose or malic acid as carbon source for cell growth. Twelve isolates expressed nitrate reduction activities. Except for one antarctic isolate BSwlO175 belonging to Actinobacteria phylum, these isolates were classified as γ-Proteobacteria, suggesting that γ-Proteobacteria dominated in cultivable marine bacterioplankton at both poles. Genus Pseudoalteromonas was the predominant group in the Chukchi Sea and the Bering Sea, and genus ShewaneUa dominated in cultivable bacterioplankton in the Prydz Bay. With sequence similarities above 97%, genus Psychrobacter was found at both poles. These 27 isolates were psychrotolerant, and significant 16S rDNA sequence similarities were found not only between arctic and antarctic marine bacteria （ 〉 99% ）, but also between polar marine bacteria and bacteria from other aquatic environments （ ≥ 98.8% ）, including temperate ocean, deep sea, pond and lake, suggesting that in the polar oceans less temperature-sensitive bacteria may be cosmopolitan and have a bipolar, even global, distribution at the species level.     

Deep-Sea Sediment Compression Curves: Some Controlling Factors, Spurious Overconsolidation, Predictions, and Geophysical Reproduction

Oedometer tests have been carried out on 70 undisturbed surficial clays (at approximately 250 mm below the mudline), mostly collected by free-fall corers from sites widely scattered throughout the deep-sea North Atlantic. Acoustic measurements were also made, initially on contiguous samples and ultimately on the same sample using a geophysically instrumented oedometer which also collected electrical resistivity data. Apart from those quiescent areas below the carbonate compensation depth, such as north of the West Indies where very fine clays exist, most of the samples are silty clays whose geotechnical-geophysical properties are dependent on the type of clay minerals present (and their ability to take in moisture), the sand-size fraction, and the quantity of carbonate present. Thus the pure clays have high compressibilities which decrease on the addition of coarse particles, while the converse is true for the acoustic parameters, these increasing with the sand fraction. Using the notion of the intrinsic compression line for all samples, and comparison to it of the measured compression curves, it is clear that, contrary to some previously held ideas, most deep-sea clays are normally consolidated; the addition of carbonate has the effect of creating an open, stronger sediment skeleton. Interestingly, where information is available, the variation with depth of a sample's acoustic velocity follows the void ratio pressure relationship of the compression curve. This allows the construction of an in-situ sediment compression curve using the in-situ geophysical observations.     

INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS

<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology,     

Estimation of Sediment Properties during Benthic Impact Experiments

Sediment properties, such as water content and density, have been used to estimate the dry and wet weights, as well as the volume of sediment recovered and discharged, during benthic impact experiments conducted in the Pacific and Indian Oceans. The estimates show that the weights of dry (355-1332 t) and wet sediment (1651-4888 t) recovered during the experiments, are not only a function of the total duration and distance covered during the experiment, but also depend on water content and density of the sediment. Estimation of dry sediment and its volumetric ratio in the discharge, are key parameters for calculating the discharged volume. The estimated volume of wet sediment recovered (1427-4049 m 3 ) as well as discharged (2693-6951 m 3 ) during the experiments, provide important inputs to evaluate the sediment resettlement and migration. Using these estimates, the average depth of excavation on the seafloor, can also been calculated. However, the stages of sediment recovery and discharge are expressed differently in some of the experiments. In order to standardize these, different stages have been identified, and definitions of certain terms have been suggested, for use in the future. The methods of calculating different properties, as well as weight and volume of discharged sediment are described in the paper for use in other applications concerning deep-sea discharges.