自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究

通过分析大量的外海浮标观测资料 ,发现波龄和无因次波高之间存在非常好的相关性 ,自然海况下的波浪场满足 3/ 5指数律 ,其波龄可达到几十 ,远远超过风浪波龄的上限 1 .4,说明波浪组成波之间波 -波共振非线性相互作用是波浪内部结构的主要调节机制 ,使波高和周期之间具有很好的相关性。     

The steepness and shape of wind waves

Variations are found in the shape and the steepness of wind-generated surface gravity waves between very young waves, such as seen in a laboratory tank, and larger waves of various wave ages encountered at sea as the result of wind stress over larger fetches. These differences in the characteristic shape of wind waves are presented as a function of the wave age. The wave steepness is also expressed as a function of wave age, the measurement of which is consistent with the 3/2-power law connecting wave height and characteristic period, normalized by the air friction velocity.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves

On the basis of data on the statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves reported in part I of this series, a self-consistent similarity regime is found to exist among properties of the individual waves, such as the nondimensional frequency, the wave number, the phase speed, and the steepness. Also, it is shown that forms of past empirical formulas for the development of the peak wave can be derived starting from the 3/2-power law, as an extension of the persent laboratory experimental data. In the derivation, only values of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law, and the fraction of momentum transferred from the wind retained by the wind waves, remain on an empirical basis.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves I. Individual wave spectra and similarity structure

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range.     

Statistical study on the local equilibrium between wind and wind waves by using data from ocean data buoy stations

The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied.     

海气动量通量研究综述

海气界面动量通量也称为风应力,是海流和表面海浪的主要驱动力,是海洋从大气获得动量的重要途径。因此,合理可靠的海洋表面风应力的参数化对于海洋、大气和波浪以及气候模式的准确预报都具有非常重要的科学意义和实用价值。对风应力拖曳系数的参数化是风应力参数化的主要内容。近来的观测发现,风应力拖曳系数随着风速的增加出现了先增后减的趋势,同时还与海面的波浪状态以及海流有关。基于观测或理论分析,目前已经得到了一系列的风应力拖曳系数计算方法或公式,有的考虑了海浪的作用,有的没有,但这些方案大都是适合中低风速,在高风速下的适用性还有待检验。本文回顾了目前在海气动量通量观测和参数化方面的研究进展,并建议应增加高风速下风速、海流以及海浪等的同步观测,以进一步完善风应力参数化方案。     

Similarities of Some Wind Input and Dissipation Source Terms

Wind input parameterizations proposed by Jeffreys, Sverdrup and Munk, and Plant are analyzed. It is round by analogy that the similarity of integrals of the three wind input parameterizations exists. Wave breaking dissipation parmneterizations proposed by Tsikunov, Hasselmann, and Phillips are also analyzed. Likewise it is found by analogy that the similarity of integrals of the three dissipation parameterizations exists. The similarities of wind input and dissipation are applied to the investigation of the fetch-limited growth of wind waves, together with the 3/2 power law presented by Toba. Some semi-empirical formulas concerning the growth of wave height and period with fetch are presented. The results from the formulas are in good agreement with previous field observations.     

Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes

A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10^?2 andK=2.16×10^?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean.     

深水风浪的风区指数律

对已有根据观测提出的幂函数形式风浪成长关系进行了分析。发现这些风浪成长关系在消去无因次风区后一致地与3／2指数律相协调，尽管它们原来存在较大的不协调性。发现Jeffreys，Sverdrup和Munk以及Platit的风能输入源函数在谱积分意义下具有相似性，而Tsikunov，Hasselmann和Phillips的破波耗散源函数在谱积分意义下也具有相似性，尽管这些源函数的原始形式和物理背景显著地不同。利用有效波能量平衡方程，将3／2指数律和发现的风能输入及破波耗散源函数相似性相结合，提出了深水风浪随风区成长的分式指数律，以得到的分式指数律拟合已有基于观测提出的风浪成长关系提出了半经验的风浪成长关系，与已有观测数据符合。     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

北极海域海面风场和海浪遥感观测能力分析

卫星遥感是开展北极海域海面风场和海浪分布特征与变化规律研究的重要手段。本文基于在轨多源卫星遥感数据,从遥感观测空间覆盖、时间覆盖和多源卫星遥感数据融合等方面开展北极海域海面风场与海浪遥感观测能力分析,研究主要结果为:基于ASCAT和HY-2A散射计可实现北极海域海面风场遥感观测,通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于12 h和0.1°的海面风场遥感融合数据;基于HY-2A、CryoSat-2、SARAL和Sentinel-3高度计可实现北极海域海浪遥感观测,同样通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于1 d和0.25°的海浪有效波高遥感融合数据;基于2016年北极海面风场和海浪遥感融合数据,分析得出北极海域海面风场和海浪在2月处于极大值,然后逐渐减小,7月最小,随后开始逐渐增大。本研究表明,基于多源散射计和高度计遥感观测可实现北极海域海面风场和海浪的高时空分辨率遥感业务化监测。     

非对称风场对台风浪模拟效果的比较研究

分析四象限非对称风场模型与叠加风场模型的优缺点,将模型结果与实测风速进行对比验证;利用上述两种风场模型分别驱动第三代海浪模式SWAN,对发生在南海海域的三场台风浪进行了数值模拟计算。结果显示:四象限非对称模型关于风速的计算值与实测值吻合度更高,尤其是当台风中心距离测站较近时;四象限非对称模型驱动SWAN模拟的台风浪精度优于叠加风场模型,适用于南海台风浪的数值模拟。     

粗糙度与风浪特征量关系的研究

在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪和风速,研究粗糙度与波面特征量的关系,发现风浪谱宽度增加,粗糙度增大。在窄谱时,粗糙度随谱宽的增加变化不明显,当波陡降低,粗糙度降低;在宽谱时,当谱宽度增加,即使波陡降低,粗糙度仍可增大。这一结果表明,波陡不足以完全决定粗糙度。当风浪波龄增加,粗糙度呈下降趋势,但由于谱宽度对粗糙度的影响,当波龄增加,部分波浪可有较大的粗糙度。由于这一因素,在粗糙度与波龄关系的观测结果中,数据点的散落不完全由观测误差造成。     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较（英文）

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在,如何进行分离风浪和涌浪一直是海浪理论研究和海洋工程应用中的重要问题。本文利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法（2D法）和三种一维谱风涌浪分离方法（PM法、WH法、JP法）进行了检验,分析发现：2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

非线性流函数在实验风浪场计算中的应用

风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。     

太平洋涌浪分布特征及其对海-气边界层的影响

本文对海-气边界层波致风机制的相关理论进行了阐述,并利用ERA-40再分析资料给出了太平洋谱峰速度、波龄、波陡等描述涌浪和波致风机制物理量的年际和季节空间分布特征。分析表明:东太平洋赤道地区等海域涌浪速度最大且涌浪由南向北传播明显;太平洋波边界层高度基本呈现出东高西低的分布形势;波致风机制主要发生在赤道热带海域,北半球夏季波致风机制偏强,冬季偏弱,南半球反之;北半球北部海域夏季更易发生波致风机制,赤道附近海域相反;南海为风浪与涌浪组成的混合浪,对其波候等相关研究有必要分开进行讨论。     

海面风应力偏离风向的观测与分析

针对海气界面风应力方向与风向不一致的现象,2015年2月4日至3月12日在南海博贺观测平台开展了综合观测,利用涡动相关法计算了海气界面风应力,并在3类大气稳定度条件下分析了风应力矢量偏离风矢量的角度变化,进一步讨论了大气层结稳定时两者角度之差与风速的参数化关系。结果表明:在大气层结稳定条件下,风应力矢量偏向风矢量左侧,且偏离角度随逆波龄和风速增大而减小;当大气层结不稳定时,风应力矢量一般偏向风矢量右侧。海气界面风应力矢量受海表面风、波浪以及大气层结的共同调制。     

A Spectral Approach for Determining Altimeter Wind Speed Model Functions

We propose a new analytical algorithm for the estimation of wind speeds from altimeter data using the mean square slope of the ocean surface, which is obtained by integration of a widely accepted wind-wave spectrum including the gravity-capillary wave range. It indicates that the normalized radar cross section depends not only on the wind speed but also on the wave age. The wave state effect on the altimeter radar return becomes remarkable with increasing wind speed and cannot be neglected at high wind speeds. A relationship between wave age and nondimensional wave height based on buoy observational data is applied to compute the wave age using the significant wave height of ocean waves, which could be simultaneously obtained from altimeter data. Comparison with actual data shows that this new algorithm produces more reliable wind speeds than do empirical algorithms. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨

从风浪的能量平衡方程出发，引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系，经演算可导出海面阻力系数（Ｃｐ）或是风速（Ｕ）和波龄（β）或是Ｕ和波高（Ｈ）的函数，然后沿用最小二乘法，终将得出４组１２个回归方程。当β（或β）或Ｈ为某一给定值，惟有Ｕ为唯一参量时，所提各式均可简化为非线性方程：ＣＤ＝ａ＋ｂ，Ｕ＋ｃ．Ｕ＾２；式中ａ，ｂ和ｃ为三个经验系数，就所检验的例子而言，本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。