Eddy-induced upwelling off Cape São Tomé (22°S,Brazil)

The regional ocean off southeast Brazil (20°S–28°S) is known as a current-eddy-upwelling region. The proximity of the Brazil Current to the coast in the Cape São Tomé vicinities, as well as of its quasi-stationary unstable meanders, suggests the possibility of background eddy-induced upwelling. Such phenomenon can intensify the prevalent coastal upwelling due to wind and topographic effects. In this paper, with the help of a numerical simulation, we provide evidence that eddy-induced upwelling in the absence of wind is possible in this region. The simulation was conducted with a regional configuration of the 3-D Princeton Ocean Model initialized by a feature-based implementation of the Brazil Current and Cape Frio eddy, blended with climatology.     

A cold pool formation in the Lakshadweep Sea during Indian summer monsoon

In Lakshadweep Sea, the distribution of observed sea surface temperature (SST) during summer monsoon season (June–September) shows the presence of a distinct cold pool (SST?<?27°C). Available satellite measurements and assimilated datasets are utilized to investigate the characteristics and mechanisms that govern the genesis and evolution of this cold pool. It is located in the grid 8° N–10° N/74° E–76° E, with a diameter of about 200?km, centered approximately at 9° N/75° E off the southwest coast of India. This cold pool, which we call as the Lakshadweep cold pool (LCP), forms invariably during the fifth pentad of June as a small cooling within the cold surface waters advected northward along the southwest coast of India from the Arabian Sea Mini Cold Pool. With the progress of the season, LCP intensifies, spread radially outwards and shows a westward spread during late July. Maximum intensity and radial spread are attained during July. By the end of August, LCP extends northward along the coast up to 13° N, and by September, it gets completely dissipated. Within the LCP, the thermocline exhibits pronounced shoaling compared to the adjacent regions. The intensity, duration, and spread of LCP showed annual variations in each summer monsoon during 1998–2005 and owes its origin to upwelling produced by uplift of poleward undercurrent induced by an elevated bathymetry in the presence of a seamount. The mechanism for the intensification is thought to be due to the combined action of Ekman pumping due to positive wind stress curl, eddy-induced upwelling due to the Lakshadweep low, and the intensification of the poleward undercurrent during the season. West- and northward spreads of LCP are attributed to the westward movement of Lakshadweep Low and the northerly spreading and intensification of positive wind stress curl, respectively. The mechanisms that govern this phenomenon are thoroughly examined.     

Generation and evolution of a topographically linked,mesoscale eddy under steady and variable wind-forcing

Numerical simulations with the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) are used to study the initial spin-up and the evolution of a mesoscale, topographically linked eddy under steady and variable wind conditions. The development of a pool of dense water on the southern Vancouver Island shelf allows cyclonic eddies formed by coastal upwelling off Cape Flattery to spread westward, ultimately contributing to the shelf-wide circulation known as the Juan de Fuca Eddy. This dense water arises through upwelling of water present in the underlying canyon system and tidal mixing over several shallow banks to the north. Tidal mixing is critical to the separation of the eddy from the coast. Although steady upwelling winds with a seasonal mean magnitude (combined with estuarine flow and tides) produce an eddy, only fluctuating winds with timescales and magnitudes typical of the region result in an eddy with a westward extent similar to seasonal observations. With each period of upwelling-favorable winds, newly upwelled water from the coast is entrained into the eddy which grows in size and moves westward. Wind events also significantly affect the baroclinic structure of the eddy. Specifically, during typical summer wind reversals, model surface drifters continue to move cyclonically within the eddy for several days after each downwelling wind event. Under upwelling-favorable wind conditions, model drifters exit the eddy to the southeast as the eddy and coastal upwelling fronts merge into a continuous southeastward shelf break jet.     

Impact of Indian ocean dipole on the coastal upwelling features off the southwest coast of India

A three-dimensional regional ocean model is used to examine the impact of positive Indian ocean dipole (pIOD) events on the coastal upwelling features at the southwest coast of India (SWCI). Two model experiments are carried out with different surface boundary conditions that prevailed in the normal and pIOD years from 1982 to 2010. Model experiments demonstrate the weakening of coastal upwelling at the SWCI in the pIOD years. The reduced southward meridional wind stress off the SWCI leads to comparatively lower offshore Ekman transport during August–October in the pIOD years to that in normal years. The suppressed coastal upwelling results in warmer sea surface temperature and deeper thermocline in the pIOD years during June–September. The offshore spatial extent of upwelled colder (<?22 °C) water was up to 75.5° E in August–September in normal years that was limited up to 76.2° E in pIOD years. The heat budget analysis reveals the decreased contribution of vertical entrainment process to the mixed layer cooling in pIOD years which is almost half of that of normal years in October. The net heat flux term shows warming tendency during May–November with a higher magnitude (+?0.4 °C day^?1) in normal years than pIOD years (+?0.28 °C day^?1). The biological productivity is found to reduce during the pIOD years as the concentration of phytoplankton and zooplankton decreases over the region of coastal upwelling at SWCI. Nitrate concentration in the pIOD years dropped by half during August–September and dropped by an order of magnitude in October as compared to its ambient concentration of 13 μmol L^?1 in normal years.     

Eddy properties in the Southern California Current System

The California Current System (CCS) is an eastern boundary upwelling system characterized by strong eddies that are often generated at the coast. These eddies contribute to intense, long-distance cross-shelf transport of upwelled water with enhanced biological activity. However, the mechanisms of formation of such coastal eddies, and more importantly their capacity to trap and transport tracers, are poorly understood. Their unpredictability and strong dynamics leave us with an incomplete picture of the physical and biological processes at work, their effects on coastal export, lateral water exchange among eddies and their surrounding waters, and how long and how far these eddies remain coherent structures. Focusing our analysis on the southern part of the CCS, we find a predominance of cyclonic eddies, with a 25-km radius and a SSH amplitude of 6 cm. They are formed near shore and travel slightly northwest offshore for ~?190 days at ~?2 km day^?1. We then study one particular, representative cyclonic eddy using a combined Lagrangian and Eulerian numerical approach to characterize its kinematics. Formed near shore, this eddy trapped a core made up of ~?67% California Current waters and ~?33% California Undercurrent waters. This core was surrounded by other waters while the eddy detached from the coast, leaving the oldest waters at the eddy’s core and the younger waters toward the edge. The eddy traveled several months as a coherent structure, with only limited lateral exchange within the eddy.     

Coastal upwelling along the north coast of Papua New Guinea and El Niño events during 1981–2005

We investigate the relationship between sea surface temperature (SST) cooling and upwelling along Papua New Guinea’s (PNG) north coast before the onset of El Niño events using a hindcast experiment with a high-resolution ocean general circulation model. Coastal upwelling and related SST cooling appear along PNG north coast during the boreal winter before the onsets of six El Niño events occurring during 1981–2005. Relatively cool SSTs appear along PNG north coast during that time, when anomalous northwesterly surface wind stress, which can cause coastal upwelling by offshore Ekman transport appearing over the region. In addition, anomalous cooling tendencies of SST are observed, accompanying anomalous upward velocities at the base of the mixed layer and shallow anomalies of 27°C isotherm depth. It is also shown that entrainment cooling plays an important role in the cooling of the mixed layer temperature in this region.     

Tidal and low-frequency currents off the Jaguaribe River estuary (4° S, 37° 4′ W), northeastern Brazil

This article characterizes the spatial and temporal current variations, in the subtidal and tidal ranges, during the rainy and dry seasons, at the continental shelf off the Jaguaribe River, through measurements of continuous current field data from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) mooring during 124 days, from June 12 to October 14, 2009. To support this dataset, we collected corresponding data from a meteorological station located at the estuary. The spatial variation showed that highest current speeds occur near the coast, with an offset of a NNW coastal jet, decreasing intensity, monotonically, towards offshore up to 0.1 ms^?1. In the rainy season, small inversions of the wind field were observed, lasting 2 to 3 days on average and were accompanied by the direction of surface currents only. In the dry season, the period of reversal of wind fields and currents lasted 14 and 35 h, respectively. The analysis of empirical orthogonal functions in rainy and dry seasons showed that the continental shelf is predominantly barotropic, where the second and third modes explained only 7% of the total variance, during the dry season. The tidal currents are more intense in the direction normal to the coast, showing a semidiurnal tidal regime. Energy distribution between tidal currents and currents of longer periods showed that for the component parallel to bathymetry, subtidal frequency currents are dominant, contributing to more than 70% of the variance. For the normal component to the coastline bathymetry, there is a significant increase of power concerning tidal currents, at all depths, so they contribute with about 55% of the total variance.     

A simulation of the Chilean Coastal Current and associated topographic upwelling near Valparaíso, Chile

A 4-year simulation of the surface circulation driven by the local wind on a section of the central Chilean coast is presented. The model is shown to reproduce the major observed features of the circulation. Comparison to observations of sea-surface temperature (SST) taken within the study area suggests that the model captures well coastal upwelling processes in the region. The circulation is shown to have two distinct modes corresponding to spring/summer and autumn/winter. During spring/summer sustained strong south-westerly wind forcing drives an equatorward coastal jet consistent with the Chile Coastal Current (CCC) and coastal upwelling at previously identified locations of intense upwelling at Topocalma Point and Curaumilla Point. Weaker winds during autumn/winter produce a slower CCC and a more homogenous SST field. Upwelling/relaxation and topographic eddies provide the main sources of variability on sub-seasonal time-scales in the model. The mechanisms responsible for each of these are discussed. Upwelling at Topocalma and Curaumilla Points is shown to be produced through generation of an upwelling Ekman bottom boundary layer following acceleration of the CCC close to the coast, reinforced by secondary circulation due to flow curvature around the headlands. Additional upwelling occurs north of Curaumilla Point due to development of shallow wind-driven overturning flow. Wind-sheltering is shown to be an important factor for explaining the fact that Valparaíso Bay is typically an upwelling shadow. Flow separation and eddy formation within Valparaíso Bay is seen to occur on the order of 10 times per year during relaxation after strong wind events and may persist for a number of weeks. Shorter lived topographic eddies are also seen to occur commonly at Topocalma and Toro Points. These eddies are shown to form in response to the surface elevation minima produced at each of these locations during upwelling.     

Numerical analysis of the Black Sea currents and mesoscale eddies in 2006 and 2011

Two prognostic experiments taking into account real atmospheric forcing for 2006 and 2011 were carried out based on the eddy-resolving numerical model with a horizontal resolution of 1.6 km for the Black Sea. The main dynamic features such as the Rim Current, the Sevastopol, and Batumi anticyclones are reproduced in both experiments. The model results are confirmed via observation data. We accomplished the analysis of simulated circulation and energetics. The results demonstrate that both the vertical viscosity and vertical diffusion along with the energy inflow from the wind have been the main contributors to the annual and seasonal budgets of kinetic and potential energies of the Black Sea circulation. It is shown that two regimes of the Black Sea general circulation are implemented depending on a magnitude of wind contribution to the kinetic energy in winter. Intensive mesoscale eddy formation was observed along the Anatolian, Caucasian, and Crimean coasts. The analysis of the Black Sea circulation and eddy energetics allowed us to conclude that the generation and development of the mesoscale coastal eddies is associated with the barotropic instability in case of intensive coastal currents and is associated with both the barotropic and baroclinic instability in case of weak coastal currents.     

‘Thermohaline front’ off the east coast of India and its generating mechanism

Physical oceanography measurements reveal a strong salinity (0.18 psu km^?1) and temperature (0.07 °C km^?1) front off the east coast of India in December 1997. T–S diagrams suggest lateral mixing between the fresh water at the coast and the ambient warmer, saltier water. This front seems to be the result of southward advection of fresh and cool water, formed in the northern Bay of Bengal during the monsoon, by the East Indian Coastal Current, as suggested by the large-scale salinity structure in the SODA re-analysis and the anti-cyclonic gyre in the northwestern Bay of Bengal during winter. The data further reveals an offshore front in January, which appears to be the result of a meso-scale re-circulation around an eddy, bringing cold and freshwater from the northern Bay of Bengal further away from the shore. Our cruise data hence illustrates that very strong salinity fronts can appear in the Bay of Bengal after the monsoon, as a result of intense coastal circulation and stirring by eddies.     

Seasonal variation of water column structure and sediment transport in a mud depo-center off the Zhejiang-Fujian coast in China

Two surveys were conducted in December, 2008, and August, 2009, in the mud depo-center off the Zhejiang-Fujian coast (MDZFC) in the inner shelf of East China Sea to depict the seasonal variation of the water column structure and analyze the factors responsible for the variation. The results were also used to discuss the sediment transport process and formation mechanism of the MDZFC. The water column structures varied significantly between the two surveys, with respect to the temperature, salinity, and turbidity. The summer water body, with relatively high temperatures and salinities, was evidently stratified with respect to the temperature, whereas the salinity remained constant throughout the water column. The stratification restricts sediment resuspension and transport. From the north to the south, the temperature in the middle-bottom water layer slightly increased, whereas the salinity remained mostly constant. In winter, the water body, with relatively low temperatures and salinities, was well mixed vertically. The temperature and salinity both increased from the surface to the bottom toward the east (deep water) and the south. A wedge-shaped water mass, which appears as a coastal upwelling, with relatively low temperature and high salinity in summer and relatively high temperature and high salinity in winter, spread landward along the sea floor, from the sea deeper than 50 m, whereas the extension was relatively stronger in winter. The water turbidity in winter was clearly higher than in summer. In the surface layer, the turbidity was generally greater than 5 FTU in winter and less than 1 FTU in summer. In the bottom layer, the turbidity was much greater than 200 FTU in winter and slightly greater than 50 FTU in summer. Moreover, the turbid water layer close to the sea floor in winter can reach into an area deeper than 50 m with a thickness of over 10 m; however, it was only limited to only 30-m-deep water with a thickness of 5 m in summer. The differences of marine sedimentary environment in the MDZFC were attributed to the seasonal variations of hydrodynamics environment, weather conditions, sediment supplies, and seasonal circulations. The results suggest that winter is the key season for particle transportation and deposition. The bottom turbid layer is the primarily channel of sediment transport, and the upwelling currents and the oceanic front systems play an important role in the sediment deposit processes and the formation of the MDZFC.     

Regional coupled ocean–atmosphere downscaling in the Southeast Pacific: impacts on upwelling, mesoscale air–sea fluxes, and ocean eddies

Ocean–atmosphere coupling in the Humboldt Current System (HCS) of the Southeast Pacific is studied using the Scripps Coupled Ocean–atmosphere Regional (SCOAR) model, which is used to downscale the National Center for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) Reanalysis-2 (RA2) product for the period 2000–2007 at 20-km resolution. An interactive 2-D spatial smoother within the sea-surface temperature (SST)–flux coupler is invoked in a separate run to isolate the impact of the mesoscale (～50–200 km, in the oceanic sense) SST field felt by the atmosphere in the fully coupled run. For the HCS, SCOAR produces seasonal wind stress and wind stress curl patterns that agree better with QuikSCAT winds than those from RA2. The SCOAR downscaled wind stress distribution has substantially different impacts on the magnitude and structure of wind-driven upwelling processes along the coast compared to RA2. Along coastal locations such as Arica and Taltal, SCOAR and RA2 produce seasonally opposite signs in the total wind-driven upwelling transport. At San Juan, SCOAR shows that upwelling is mainly due to coastal Ekman upwelling transport, while in RA2 upwelling is mostly attributed to Ekman pumping. Fully coupled SCOAR shows significant SST–wind stress coupling during fall and winter, while smoothed SCOAR shows insignificant coupling throughout, indicating the important role of ocean mesoscale eddies on air–sea coupling in HCS. Coupling between SST, wind speed, and latent heat flux is incoherent in large-scale coupling and full coupling mode. In contrast, coupling between these three variables is clearly identified for oceanic mesoscales, which suggests that mesoscale SST affects latent heat directly through the bulk formulation, as well as indirectly through stability changes on the overlying atmosphere, which affects surface wind speeds. The SST–wind stress and SST–heat-flux couplings, however, fail to produce a strong change in the ocean eddy statistics. No rectified effects of ocean–atmosphere coupling were identified for either the atmospheric or oceanic mean conditions, suggesting that mesoscale coupling is too weak in this region to strongly alter the basic climate state.     

‘Thermohaline front’ off the east coast of India and its generating mechanism

Physical oceanography measurements reveal a strong salinity (0.18 psu km⁻¹) and temperature (0.07 °C km⁻¹) front off the east coast of India in December 1997. T–S diagrams suggest lateral mixing between the fresh water at the coast and the ambient warmer, saltier water. This front seems to be the result of southward advection of fresh and cool water, formed in the northern Bay of Bengal during the monsoon, by the East Indian Coastal Current, as suggested by the large-scale salinity structure in the SODA re-analysis and the anti-cyclonic gyre in the northwestern Bay of Bengal during winter. The data further reveals an offshore front in January, which appears to be the result of a meso-scale re-circulation around an eddy, bringing cold and freshwater from the northern Bay of Bengal further away from the shore. Our cruise data hence illustrates that very strong salinity fronts can appear in the Bay of Bengal after the monsoon, as a result of intense coastal circulation and stirring by eddies.

     

Upwelling or differential cooling? Analysis of satellite SST images of the Southeastern Baltic Sea

The results of comparative analysis of sea surface temperature variations along horizontal sections in the coastal zone are given. The data used had been taken by MODIS spectroradiometers (Aqua, Terra) in the Southeastern Baltic, in periods of coastal upwelling—in the periods of autumn differential cooling over coastal continental slopes (facilitating water subsidence along these slopes). Studying 135 SST images of coastal upwelling events in May–October 2000–2014 and four cooling events in October–November 2002, 2004, 2005, and 2009 revealed the specific features of the shape of horizontal temperature profiles on sea surface along sections over coastal continental slopes. In addition to the higher differences between water surface temperatures in the deep and coastal parts of the sea (up to 14°C), upwelling features an appreciable distance from the cold-water core to the coast (up to 3–15 km) and a variable shape of horizontal profiles of water temperature on the sea surface along the sections. Conversely, during autumn differential cooling, water temperature difference on the surface is relatively small, the shape of the dependence of surface water temperature on the distance to the shore does not change over time, varies only slightly with the alongshore displacement of the section, and shows low sensitivity to bathymetry and even to wind effect. Thus, the analysis of the shape of the temperature on the sea surface along horizontal sections over coastal continental slopes enables the diagnostics of the regime of vertical water exchange in the coastal zone.     

The Guajira upwelling system

The coastal upwelled waters of the Guajira coast, the most northerly peninsula of South America, were studied on the basis of historical data bases, remotely sensed data, and three oceanographic cruises. The Guajira Peninsula is the locus of particularly strong upwelling because it protrudes into the Caribbean Low-Level Wind Jet and its west coast parallels the direction of the strongest winds. The year-round upwelling varies with the wind forcing: strongest in December–March and July, and weakest in the October–November rainy season. The east–west temperature, salinity and density front that delimits the upwelling lies over the shelf edge in the east of the peninsula but separates from the south-westward trending topography to the west. A coastal westward surface jet geostrophically adjusted to the upwelling flows along the front, and an eastward sub-surface counterflow is trapped against the Guajira continental slope. The undercurrent shoals toward the western limit of the upwelling, Santa Marta, beyond which point it extends to the surface. Some of the westward jet re-circulates inshore with the counterflow but part continues directly west to form an upwelling filament. Much of the mesoscale variation is associated with upwelling filaments, which expel cooler, chlorophyll-rich coastal upwelling waters westward and northward into the Caribbean Sea. Freshwater plumes from the Magdalena and Orinoco rivers influence the area strongly, and outflow from Lake Maracaibo interacts directly with upwelled waters off Guajira. Another important factor is the Aeolian input of dust from the Guajira desert by episodes of offshore winds.     

Tsunami damage to coastal defences and buildings in the March 11th 2011 M w 9.0 Great East Japan earthquake and tsunami

On March 11th 2011 a M _w 9.0 mega-thrust interface subduction earthquake, the Great East Japan Earthquake, occurred 130 km off the northeast coast of Japan in the Pacific Ocean at the Japan Trench, triggering tsunami which caused damage along 600 km of coastline. Observations of damage to buildings (including vertical evacuation facilities) and coastal defences in Tōhoku are presented following investigation by the Earthquake Engineering Field Investigation Team (EEFIT) at 10 locations in Iwate and Miyagi Prefectures. Observations are presented in the context of the coastal setting and tsunami characteristics experienced at each location. Damage surveys were carried out in Kamaishi City and Kesennuma City using a damage scale for reinforced concrete (RC), timber and steel frame buildings adapted from an earlier EEFIT tsunami damage scale. Observations show that many sea walls and breakwaters were overtopped, overturned, or broken up, but provided some degree of protection. We show the extreme variability of damage in a local area due to inundation depth, flow direction, velocity variations and sheltering. Survival of many RC shear wall structures shows their high potential to withstand local earthquake and significant tsunami inundation but further research is required into mitigation of scour, liquefaction, debris impact, and the prevention of overturning failure. Damage to steel and timber buildings are also discussed. These observations are intended to contribute to mitigation of future earthquake and tsunami damage by highlighting the key features which influence damage level and local variability of damage sustained by urban coastal infrastructure when subjected to extreme tsunami inundation depths.     

Seasonal dynamics of physical and biological processes in the central California Current System: A modeling study

A 3-D physical and biological model is used to study the seasonal dynamics of physical and biological processes in the central California Current System. Comparisons of model results with remote sensing and in situ observations along CalCOFI Line 67 indicate our model can capture the spatial variations of key variables (temperature, nutrients, chlorophyll, and so on) on annual mean and seasonal cycle. In the coastal upwelling system, it is the alongshore wind stress that upwells high nutrients to surface from 60 m and stimulates enhanced plankton biomass and productivity in the upwelling season. As a result, coastal species peak in the late upwelling period (May–July), and oceanic species reach the annual maxima in the oceanic period (August–October). The annual maximum occurs in the late upwelling period for new production and in the oceanic period for regenerated production. From the late upwelling period to the oceanic period, stratification is intensified while coastal upwelling becomes weaker. Correspondingly, the coastal ecosystem retreats from ～300 to ～100 km offshore with significant decline in chlorophyll and primary production, and the oceanic ecosystem moves onshore. During this transition, the decline in phytoplankton biomass is due to the grazing pressure by mesozooplankton in the 0–150 km domain, but is regulated by low growth rates in the 150–500 km offshore domain. Meanwhile, the growth rates of phytoplankton increase in the coastal waters due to deeper light penetration, while the decrease in offshore growth rates is caused by lower nitrate concentrations.     

Observations of semidiurnal internal tidal currents off central Chile (36.6°S)

Observations of semidiurnal internal tidal currents from three moorings deployed on the continental shelf off central Chile during summer and winter of 2005 are reported. The spectra of the baroclinic currents showed large peaks at the semidiurnal band with a dominant counterclockwise rotation, which was consistent with internal wave activity. The amplitude of the barotropic tidal currents varied according to the spring–neap cycle following the sea level fluctuations. In contrast, the amplitudes of the internal tide showed high spatial-temporal variability not directly related to the spring–neap modulation. Near the middle of the continental shelf and near the coast (San Vicente Bay) the variance of the semidiurnal baroclinic current is larger than the variance of its barotropic counterpart. The vertical structure of the baroclinic tidal current fluctuations was similar to the structure of the first baroclinic internal wave mode. In general, in the three study sites the variance of the baroclinic current was larger near the surface and bottom and tended to show a minimum value at mid depths. Kinetic energy related to semidiurnal internal waves was larger in winter when stratification of the water column was stronger. During summer, upwelling and the decrease of freshwater input from nearby rivers reduced the vertical density stratification. The amplitude of the semidiurnal internal tide showed a tendency to be enhanced with increasing stratification as observed in other upwelling areas. The continental shelf break and submarine canyons, which limit the continental shelf in the alongshore direction, represent near-critical slopes for the semidiurnal period and are suggested to be the main internal tide generation sites in the study region.     

Climate change impact on waves in the Bay of Biscay, France

The knowledge of offshore and coastal wave climate evolution towards the end of the twenty-first century is particularly important for human activities in a region such as the Bay of Biscay and the French Atlantic coast. Using dynamical downscaling, a high spatial resolution dataset of wave conditions in the Bay of Biscay is built for three future greenhouse gases emission scenarios. Projected wave heights, periods and directions are analysed at regional scale and more thoroughly at two buoys positions, offshore and along the coast. A general decrease of wave heights is identified (up to ?20?cm during summer within the Bay off Biscay), as well as a clockwise shift of summer waves and winter swell coming from direction. The relation between those changes and wind changes is investigated and highlights a complex association of processes at several spatial scales. For instance, the intensification and the northeastward shift of strong wind core in the North Atlantic Ocean explain the clockwise shift of winter swell directions. During summer, the decrease of the westerly winds in the Bay of Biscay explains the clockwise shift and the wave height decrease of wind sea and intermediate waves. Finally, the analysis reveals that the offshore changes in the wave height and the wave period as well as the clockwise shift in the wave direction continue toward the coast. This wave height decrease result is consistent with other regional projections and would impact the coastal dynamics by reducing the longshore sediment flux.     

Mesoscale circulation along the Sakhalin Island eastern coast

The seasonal and interannual variability of mesoscale circulation along the eastern coast of the Sakhalin Island in the Okhotsk Sea is investigated using the AVISO velocity field and oceanographic data for the period from 1993 to 2016. It is found that mesoscale cyclones with the horizontal dimension of about 100 km occur there predominantly during summer, whereas anticyclones occur predominantly during fall and winter. The cyclones are generated due to a coastal upwelling forced by northward winds and the positive wind stress curl along the Sakhalin coast. The anticyclones are formed due to an inflow of low-salinity Amur River waters from the Sakhalin Gulf intensified by southward winds and the negative wind stress curl in the cold season. The mesoscale cyclones support the high biological productivity at the eastern Sakhalin shelf in July– August.