The Equilibrium Range of Wind Wave Spectra： an Explanation Based on White Noise

Laboratory experiments and field observations show that the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra presents a – 4 power law when it is scaled properly. This feature has been attributed to energy balance in spectral space by many researchers. In this paper we point out that white noise on an oscillation system can also lead to a similar inverse power law in the corresponding displacement spectrum, implying that the – 4 power law for the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra may probably only reflect the randomicity of the wind waves rather than any other dynamical processes in physical space. This explanation may shed light on the mechanism of other physical processes with spectra also showing an inverse power law, such as isotropic turbulence, internal waves, etc.     

Wavenumber and depth properties of temperature finestructure in the region around the Ryukyu Islands

INTRODUCTIONTheoceanicfinestructureintheEastChinaSea (ECS)Kuroshioregionhadbeenstudiedbyvariousresearchers.Fangetal.(1 988)studiedthefeaturesofthefinestructureinthesouthernshelfareaandtheKuroshioareaintheECSbyusingCTDdata .Baoetal.(1 996)analyzedsomefeaturesofthermohalinefinestructureandrevealeditsrelationwiththewatermassesandcurrentssysteminthenorthernECS .ButoceanicfinestructureintheeasternregionoftheKuroshiohassel dombeenstudied .Inthispaper,basedon 4 2CTDprofilesgatheredinsum…     

Response of internal waves to 2005 Typhoon Damrey over the northwestern shelf of the South China Sea

Continuous observation of sea water temperature and current was made at Wenchang Station (19°35′N, 112°E) in 2005. The data collected indicate vigorous internal waves of both short periods and tidal and near-inertial periods. The temperature and current time series during 18-30 September were examined to describe the upper ocean internal wave field response to Typhoon Damrey (0518). The strong wind associated with the typhoon, which passed over the sea area about 45 km south of Wenchang Sta- tion on 25 September, deepened the mixed layer depth remarkably. It decreased the mixed layer temperature while increasing the deep layer temperature, and intensified the near-inertial and high-frequency fluctuations of temperature and current. Power spectra of temperature and current time series indicate significant deviations from those obtained by using the deep ocean internal wave models characterized by a power law. The frequency spectra were dominated by three energetic bands: around the inertial frequency (7.75× 10-6 Hz), tidal frequencies (1.010-25 to 2.4×10-5 Hz), and between 1.4×10-4 and 8.3 × 10-4 Hz. Dividing the field data into three phases (before, during and after the typhoon), we found that the typhoon enhanced the kinetic energy in nearly all the frequency bands, es- pecially in the surface water. The passage of Damrey made a major contribution to the horizontal kinetic energy of the total surface current variances. The vertical energy density distribution, with its peak value at the surface, was an indication that the energy in- jected by the strong wind into the surface current could penetrate downward to the thermocline.     

Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images

A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable.     

Factorial analysis of annual erosion-accretion cycles of tidal flats in the front area of the southern Changjiang river delta

Based on surveyed data from seven coastal sections and the collected data of wind, sea level, tide, nearshore suspended sediment concentration and river flux from adjacent stations, this paper deals with regressive correlation between monthly average flat elevation and monthly average figures of the influential factors. All sections except one which is located within the river mouth showed negative correlation between flat elevation and sea level and between flat elevation and tidal range, with correlation coefficients being −0.53 – −0.91 (−0.77 on the average) in the former condition and −0.56 – −0.97 (−0.80 on the average) under the latter. Each of the sections with available suspended sediment concentration (SSC) data shows a positive correlation between flat elevation and SSC, with correlative coefficients being 0.35 – 0.97 (0.66 on the average). Only two sections (one in the Changjiang River Estuary and the other in the Hangzhou Bay) which are similar to beaches in sediment grain-size and slope gradient showed a negative correlation between flat elevation and onshore wind frequency and between flat elevation and average wind velocity, with correlative coefficients being respectively −0.57 and −0.69 (−0.63 on the average) in the former situation and −0.61 and −0.75 (−0.68 on the average) in the latter. Other sections did not show uniform relationship between flat elevation and wind conditions. Due to local marine factors the nearshore SSC in the studied area is negatively correlated with the Changjiang River sediment flux (r=−0.78), which results in false negative correlation between flat elevation and river sediment flux. The paper also gives sediment dynamic and morphodynamic explanation for the above correlations. Sea level rise results in the spread of breaker zone from subtidal area to intertidal area and then increases the intertidal water energy. The larger the tidal range, the stronger the tide currents and the easier for the flat to be eroded. The higher the SSC of flood water, the easier for the sediment to deposit down. Because of correlations among the influential factors, it is difficult to give the prime one which dominates the erosion and accretion processes in tidal flats.     

GENERAL THEORY FOR APPARENT ENERGY DISTRIBUTION OF SEA WAVES

lwrRODUcrIONSeawavesarerecognindasacrucialfaCtorinengineeringandoffshorestruCturede-signsandconstitutCanimPoftantpartintheoreticalstudiesandapplicati0ns.TocopewiththecomPlexityofseawaves,alinearrandomwaveshomogeneousandstationarythe-oryisintrodutalwhereintwomodeIsdescribetheoonnsurfaeedisplacement.Inthefirstone,thesurfaeedisplaerentchangingwithlocationandtheisexpnssedingeneralitalFouriertransform,wherethefrequencyspeCtrumE(co)andwavenumberspodrumEoocanbedefined.Theotherwavemodelisbasedo…     

EFFECT OF WATER DEPTH ON WIND-WAVE FREQUENCY SPECTRUM Ⅰ.SPECTRAL FORM

Wen et al.'s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S(ω) (ω bein angular frequency) when normalizedwith the zeroth moment m and peak frequercyω。 contains in adrition to the peakness factor P=ω。S(ω。)/m。, a twth parameter n=(2πm。)_(1/2)d (d being water depPth), so the spatrum behavior can bestudies for different ware growth stages and water depths.     

A Kinetic Spectrophotometric Method for the Determination of Iron （Ⅲ） in Water Samples

A new kinetic spectrophotometric method has been developed for the determination of iron (Ⅲ). The method is based on the catalytic effect of iron (Ⅲ) on the oxidation of weak acid brilliant blue dye (RAWL) by KIO4 in acid medium. The advantages of the proposed method are that it is sensitive, accurate, rapid, inexpensive, can be operated under room temperature and has a large determination concentration range compared to other techniques. The obtained optimum conditions are pH 3.15, RAWL (200 mgL-1) 5.00mL, Potassium periodate solution (0.01 molL-1) 0.30mL, phenanthroline (0.02molL-1) 1.00mL, reaction temperature 25℃ and reaction time 7 miu. With this method iron could quantitively be determined in the range 0.00-0.02 mgL-1, the detection limit being 4.10×10-10mL-1. The relative standard deviations (RSD) in five replicate determinations for 3 μgL-1 and 5μgL-1 iron (Ⅲ) are 3.1% and 1.9%, respectively. The method has been applied to the determination of iron (Ⅲ) in tap water samples and seawater samples (from the South China Sea), the recovery rates being 98.0% and 100.5%, respectively.     

Measurement of trace manganese (II) by the catalytic kinetic spectrophotometric method

A new kinetic spectrophotometric method is developed for the measurement of manganese (II) in water. The method is based on the catalytic effect of manganese (II) with the oxidation of weak acid brilliant blue dye (RAWL) by KIO₄ using the Nitrilo triacetic acid (NTA) as an activation reagent. The optimum conditions obtained are 40 mgL⁻¹ RAWL, 1×10⁻⁴molL⁻¹ KIO₄, 2×10⁻⁴ molL⁻¹ Nitrilo triacetic acid (NTA), pH = 5.8, the reaction time of 3.00 min and the temperature of 20.0 °C. Under the optimum conditions, the proposed method allows the measurement of manganese (II) in a range of 0–50.0 ng mL⁻¹ and with a detection limit of down to 0.158 ng mL⁻¹. The recovery efficiency in measuring the standard manganese (II) solution is in a range of 98.5%–102%, and the RSD is in a range of 0.76%–1.25%. The new method has been successfully applied to the measurement of manganese (II) in both fresh water and seawater samples with satisfying results. Moreover, few cations and anions interfere with the measurement of manganese (II). Compared with other kinetic catalytic methods and instrumental methods, the proposed method shows fairly good selectivity and sensitivity, low cost, cheapness, low detection limit and rapidity. It can be applied on boats easily.     

Spectrum characteristics of major ion concentrations at Wuhan sectoin of the Changjiang Rriver

Spectrum analyses of water quality time series have been carried out for five hydrometric stations including Wuhan hydrometric station of the Changjiang(Yangtze) River, etc. The fluctuations of Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺ and HCO ₃ ⁻ concentrations in river water under different physical geography conditions have about two-year cycle which is corresponding to hydrometeorological quasi-biannual-oscillation (QBO). Na⁺, Cl⁻ SO ₄ ²⁻ have about two-year cycle in the area lightly affected by human activities while two-year cycle doesn’t exist in the area heavily affected by human activities. All the fluctuations of major ions have about three-month cycle. The river diseharge fluctuation accounts for 43.9%, 45.1%, 54.3%, 33.9%, 30.3% and 42.7% of the variance of Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, HCO ₃ ⁻ , Na⁺, Cl⁻, SO ₄ ²⁻ , respectively, at Wuhan from 1962 to 1985. According to the spectrum characteristic of major ions, the duration of the time series has to be at least 13 years for trend analysis of monthly water quality data. Foundation item: Under the auspices of the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 49671017). Biography: XIA Xing-hui(1971-), female, a native of Hunan Province, Ph. D. Her research interest includes environmental chemistry.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

The fractional power law of wind wave growth in deep water for short fetch

Combining the 3/2 power law proposed by Toba with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind waves, wave growth in deep water for short fetch is investigated. It is found that the variations of wave height and period with fetch have the form of power function with fractional exponents 3/8 and 1/4 respectively. Using these exponents in the power functions and through data fitting, the concise wind wave growth relations for short fetch are obtained.     

The spectrum characteristics of Bohai Bay wind waves under the influence of cold waves

The wind waves generated by cold waves are some of the most dangerous waves in Bohai Bay. In this paper records of the wind waves under the influence of cold waves in November, 1968, are discussed. It is shown that the north wind is very strong in spring and winter. The frequency spectrum of the development and decline of wind waves depends mainly on the wind speed. The change of shape and scale parameters of the spectrum are discussed and the calculation equations are shown. This paper was published in Chinese inOceanologia et Limnologia Sinica.16(2): 147–155, 1985.     

The characteristics of near-surface velocity during the upwelling season on the northern Portugal shelf

Observations made on the northern Portugal mid-shelf between May 13 and June 15,2002 were used to characterise the near-surface velocity during one upwelling season. It was found that in the surface mixed layer,the 'tidal current' was diurnal,but the tidal elevation was semi-diurnal. Both the residual current and the major axes of all tidal constituents were nearly perpendicular to the isobaths and the tidal current ellipses rotated clockwise;the major axis of the major tidal ellipse was about 3 cm s-1. The extremely strong diurnal current in the surface layer was probably due to diurnal heating,cooling,and wind mixing that induced diurnal oscillations,including the diurnal oscillation of wind stress. This is a case different from the results measured in the other layers in this area. The near-inertial spectral peaks occurred with periods ranging from 1 047 min to 1 170 min,the longest periods being observed in deeper layers,and the shortest in the surface layer. Weak inertial events appeared during strong upwelling events,while strong inertial events appeared during downwelling or weak subinertial events. The near-inertial currents were out of phase between 5 m and 35 m layers for almost the entire measurement period,but such relationship was very weak during periods of irregular weak wind. Strong persistent southerly wind blew from May 12 to 17 and forced a significant water transport onshore and established a strong barotropic poleward jet with a surface speed exceeding 20 cm s-1. The subinertial current was related to wind variation,especially in the middle layers of 15 m and 35 m,the maximum correlation between alongshore current and alongshore wind was about 0.5 at the 5 m layer and 0.8 at the 35 m layer. The alongshore current reacted more rapidly than the cross-shore current. The strongest correlation was found at a time lag of 20 h in the upper layer and of 30 h in the deeper layer. The wind-driven surface velocity obtained from the PWP model had maximum amplitude of about 7 cm s-1,corresponding to a wind stress at 0.1 Pa,and the horizontal velocity shear due to thermal wind balance had the order of 3 cm s-1. So the local wind and thermal wind would only explain a part of the strong surface velocity variations.     

Some Problems on the Global Wavelet Spectrum

In order to test the validity of the global wavelet spectrum - a new period analysis method based on wavelet analysis, we carried out some simple experiments. In our experiments we used idealized time series and real Nifio 3 sea surface temperature （SST） for testing purposes. First we combined different signals which have the same power but different periods into some new time series. Then we calculated the global wavelet spectra and Fourier power spectra for the testing time series. The testing results revealed that on some occasions the global wavelet spectrum tends to amplify the relative power of longer periods. By making comparisons with the results obtained by the traditional Fourier power spectrum, we demonstrated that on an occasion when the global wavelet spectrum does not work the Fourier power spectrum can be used to achieve the right results. Hence it is recommended that when making period analysis with the global wavelet spectrum one needs to do further tests to confirm their results.     

Total lipid and fatty acid composition of eight strains of marine diatoms

Fatty acid composition and total lipid content of 8 strains of marine diatoms (Nitzschia frustrula, Nitzschia closterium, Nitzschia incerta, Navicula pelliculosa, Phaeodactylum tricornutum, Synedra fragilaroides) were examined. The microalgae were grown under defined conditions and harvested at the late exponential phase. The major fatty acids in most strains were 14∶0 (1.0%–6.3%), 16∶0 (13.5–26.4%), 16∶1n−7 (21.1%–46.3%) and 20∶5n−3 (6.5%–19.5%). The polyunsaturated fatty acids 16∶2n−4, 16∶3n−4, 16∶4n−1 and 20∶4n−6 also comprised a significant proportion of the total fatty acids in some strains. The characteristic fatty acid composition of diatoms is readily distinguishable from those of other microalgal groups. Significant concentration of the polyunsaturated fatty acid 20∶5n−3 (eicosapentaenoic acid) was present in each strain, with the highest proportion in B222 (19.5%). Project supported by the Hi-Tech “863” Programs of the China Ministry of Science and Technology (863-819-02-01).     

Dynamic model for oil slick dispersion into a water column—A wind-driven wave tank experiment

A dynamic experiment for oil dispersion into a water column was performed with a 21 m long, 0.5 m wide, and 1 m high wind-driven wave tank. At wind velocity between 6–12 m/s and with the oil slick kept constant (about 1 μm), the rate of the oil content increase in the water column could be approximated from the difference between the dispersion rate (R) of the oil slick and the coagulation rate (R′) of the dispersed oil slick. Assuming the coagulation rate is directly proportional to the concentration of the water dispersed oil slick (i. e.R′-K ^*C), the integral form of the dynamic model can be expressed asC=R ^* [1−exp(−K ^*t)]/K and parametersR andK can be regressed with a computer. The relative deviation of model results from the experimental data was mainly less than 10%. The oil slick dispersion rate (R) had exponential relationship with the wind velocity (U), and can be fitted with a formulaR=A ^* (U+1) ^B . The fitted constant of the coagulation rate,K(0.8–3.0^* 10⁻³ min⁻¹) did not have significant relationship with the wind velocity.     

DYNAMIC CHANGES OF INORGANIC NITROGEN AND ASTAXANTI—IIN ACCUMULATION IN HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS

This study on dynamic changes of culture color,astaxanthin and chlorophylls,inorganic N including N-NO3^-,N-NO2^- and N-NH4^ in batch culture of Haematococcus pluvialis exposed to different additive nitrate concentration showed(1)ast/chl ratio was over 0.8 for brown and red algae,but was usually less than 0.5 for green and yellow algae;(2)N-NO3^-,in general,was unstable and decreased,except for a small unexpected increase in nitrate enriched treatment groups;(3)measurable amounts of N-NO2^- and N-NH4^ were observed respectively with three change modes although no extemal nitrite and ammonia were added into the culture;(4)a non-linear correlation between ast/chl ratio(or color)changes and the levels of N-NO3^-,N-NO2^-,N-NH4^ in H.pluvialis culture;(5)up and down variation of the ast/chl ratio occurred simultaneously with a perceptible color change from yellow to brown(or red)when N-NO3^-,N-NO2^- and N-NH4^ fluctuated around 30,5,5μmol/L respectively;(6)existence of three dynamic modes of N-NO3^-,N-NO2^- and N-NH4^ changes,obviously associated with initial extemal nitrate;(7)the key level of total inorganic N concentration regulating the above physiological changes during indoor cultivation was about 50 μmol/L;and(8)0.5-10mmol/L of nitrate was theoretically conducive to cell growth in batch culture.     

Mixing in Shallow Waters： Measurements, Processing, and Applications

Microstructure profiling measurements taken on a shallow Black Sea shelf and in Lake Banyoles and Boadella reservoir (Both in Spain) are analyzed to investigate the influence of boundary-layer-induced turbulence of various sources on mixing in the water interior. The state of turbulence in shallow waters is examined and details of microstructure data processing and error analysis are discussed. The dependence between averaged activity parameter AG and buoyancy Reynolds number Reb for the shelf turbulence indicates that for Reb < 1 the state of turbulence can be described by the fossil turbulence model, which postulates AG-Reb1/2. For Reb> 1, however, the influence of Reb on AG is weak, signifying that the buoyancy Reynolds number can no longer serve as the governing parameter for active turbulent mixing. The generation of turbulence by a one-minute long wind bursts (the Boadella reservoir) increases the averaged dissipation rate (e) of the surface mixed layer by more than 5 times (up to 3×10-6 W kg-1). The influence of the wind bursts was also traced below the ther-mocline, where turbulent patches with