沙质海岸沿岸输沙率的数值模型

为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布.并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型.     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

利用风要素计算港湾沿岸输沙率的一个数学模式

本文利用风浪要素计算方法,依波能流守恒法则,建立了一个由风要素计算港湾沿岸输沙率的数学模式Ql=1.906×10-8g-0.97F1.03u2.94cos1.2α0sinα0(m3/s).这模式对于缺乏测波资料的风速较小,水深较大(gd/u2)的海湾、湖泊等环境的沿岸输沙率求算具有实用价值.与现有主要几种计算沿岸输沙率的数模和方法进行计算比对,本文模式的计算结果有较好可信性与准确性.     

沿岸输沙率计算Ⅱ

本文通过解析力学途径和海岸底质条件建立起一种理论模式,并用来计算稳定冲积海岸的沿岸输沙率。该项研究成果较宜用于己知常浪向及强浪向基本一致而短缺波浪详尽资料的稳定海岸段。     

应用现场实测波浪资料直接计算沿岸输沙率

本文应用波能流守恒法则，导得可直接应用现场实测波浪资料计算沿岸输沙率关系式。通过两个实例计算，说明计算值与实际沿岸输沙率一致。     

山东荣成湾沿岸输沙率及沙嘴的演化动态

山东荣成湾发育了NEE-SWW向约10 km长的沙坝,通过沿岸输沙率的计算、沙源分析得出以下结论:荣成湾沙坝的主要沙源为海底来沙和海岸来沙,其沿岸纵向净体积输沙率为15.52×104 m3/a,为沙坝的形成和演化提供了物源基础;沙嘴各段输沙率的计算及相应段沙嘴层理剖面分析,揭示了沙嘴的动态演化趋势.     

海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汊道演变及沿岸输沙率的计算

通过收集不同时期的遥感资料,结合已往的研究,分析了海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汉道演变的年际与季节性变化规律;根据实测波浪资料计算了年沿岸输沙率及沿岸输沙率的季节变化.结果表明,博鳌潮汐汉道的演变具有周期性的规律,年际特征为南、北侧沙嘴分别向口门进积、口门总体变窄;从10 a以上的尺度来看,封堵口门的趋势不断被洪季时的洪水和风暴潮增水所打断.另外通过沙嘴体积变化反推了博鳌近岸的沿岸输沙率,其结果与CERC公式计算结果一致,表明此公式在博鳌岸段有较好的适用性.     

海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

莱州湾东岸沿岸输沙率及冲淤演化动态分析

采用美国<海岸防护手册>的CERC公式对莱州湾东岸的沿岸输沙率进行计算;同时根据莱州湾东岸自身特征,采用岬间海湾平面平衡形态经验模型-抛物线模型对莱州湾东岸的平衡状态进行预测,结合两者分析得出莱州湾东岸的冲淤演化动态:屺姆岛南侧西端略有冲刷;龙口湾顶基本无泥沙进出;招远岸段遭受严重的侵蚀;石虎咀处于淤积状态.针对侵蚀岸段提出了防止海岸蚀退的对策.     

三亚新机场工程海岸侵蚀补沙措施效果研究

沙质海岸在自然状态和修建新工程后存在侵蚀风险时,主要采用近岸补沙和建设生态离岸潜堤的方式进行海滩修复.采用1:100的正态波浪-潮流-泥沙物理模型模拟的方法对三亚新机场建设后天涯海角附近人工补沙方案的防护效果开展研究,分别针对常海况和台风浪作用工况进行了模拟试验.结果表明:人工补沙的维护周期大致每4.5 a一次,个别部...     

Modeling waves and longshore transport potential in Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor, Washington, USA

A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor. Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction. The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into ac- count the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model's wave boundary conditions. The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data. The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engi- neering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement ( Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest comer of Half Moon Bay.     

唐山港京唐港区泥沙运动特征与海岸性质界定

海岸性质的界定,是港口航道减淤措施合理布置的关键。通过地形资料和现场测量资料对京唐港区的水下地形地貌特征、泥沙特性以及沿岸输沙特点等进行了分析研究。研究结果表明,京唐港区泥沙中值粒径大于0.06 mm、沉积物中黏土含量小于15%、岸滩坡度通常大于1/1 000;泥沙运动具有沿岸泥沙运动特征,但与沙质海岸又有所不同,存在复合沿岸输沙,尤其在风暴潮期间,大浪产生的破波沿岸流与风暴潮潮流叠加,产生更为强烈的沿岸输沙能力。在粉沙质海岸定义基础上,将京唐港区海岸界定为细沙粉沙质海岸。在京唐港区航道防波挡沙堤布置上考虑复合沿岸输沙,取得良好效果。     

波浪作用下近岸区污染物输移扩散的数学模型及其实验验证

在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向.     

Sand spit rhythmic development: A potential record of wave climate variations? Arçay Spit, western coast of France

This study aims at showing the sedimentary and geomorphological records of wave climate variations by spits. The studied spit (Arçay Spit) is located on the French Atlantic coast and has displayed a rapid elongation since the beginning of the 19th century that potentially represents a two century-long wave climate record. Wave climate and spit growth relationships are studied from two complementary methods: (1) numerical modelling of wave and longshore transport temporal and spatial variabilities, and (2) morphological monitoring based on the analysis of 4 historical maps (1811–1945), 8 aerial photographs (1945–2000) and 17 satellite SPOT images (1987–2005).Results at seasonal to interannual time-scales show that the sand spit area gain variations are the result of variations in longshore transport, themselves modulated mainly by wave height. Moreover, energetic swells seem to cause massive sand accumulation and spit elongation, whereas less energetic swells appear to be responsible for small sand accumulation and spit curvature. At longer time scale (decades to centuries), increasing spit growth phases are also synchronised with periods of energetic swells or high storm surge frequency. These results suggest that wave climate variations are the main factor controlling spit morphological evolutions.     

砂质海岸岸滩侵蚀演变模式探讨——以山东南部海岸侵蚀岸段的岸滩演变为例

在分析山东南部海岸几十年来的地形观测资料的基础上，运用砂质海岸等深线变化预测理论，建立该区的岸滩侵蚀演变预测模型，研究了该区域岸滩演变规律。实测资料验证表明：预测结果合理，基本反映了本区岸滩演变的特征。     

Effects of wind waves of the Pacific westerly on the eastern Pacific wave transport

There exists a tongueshaped swelldominance pool known as Swell Pool (SP) in the Eastern Pacific region. The monthlymean wave transports (WT) for each month of 2000 is computed using the wave products of ECMWF reanalysis data. By comparing the 2000 monthlymean WT and monthlymean wind field from QUICKSCAT, large differences are found between the wave transport direction and the wind direction over the Eastern Pacific. This may serve as an evidence for the existence of the SP in this region. The work done in this study indicates that the sources of swell in the Tropical Eastern Pacific (TEP) are in the westerly regions of the Southern and Northern Pacific.     

砂质海岸突堤式建筑物下游岸线变形数学模型

提出了一种改进的砂质海岸岸滩演变的“一线理论”数学模型.该模型中考虑了岸滩演变过程中岸滩坡度变化的影响,并采用波浪折射、绕射和反射联合计算数学模型模拟掩护区的波浪场,提高了波浪计算的精度.实例计算表明,在验证资料比较充分的条件下,该数学模型计算结果的可靠度较高,可供实际工程规划和设计时参考使用.