Uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation: Part 1

This paper aims to quantify the uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation (PBSE) for a bay in static equilibrium. By means of expert elicitation, a database was generated consisting of the position of the control points that determine the Static Equilibrium Planform (SEP). The elicitation consisted of two parts. In Part 1, 22 expert volunteers were asked to place the three control points that determine the SEP on a vertical aerial photograph of Taquaras–Taquarinhas Bay, a morphologically stable bay in the south of Brazil, approximately 1800 m in width and with an indentation of 750 m. The distribution of the location of the SEP along four evenly spaced (200 m) profiles in the southern part of the bay was determined. The overall bias of the location of the SEP calculated over the four profiles was in the order of 41 m (landward) and the average standard deviation was 116 m. These parameters increased when moving alongshore toward the curved section of the bay. This means that the uncertainty in the application of the PBSE is dependent on the particular point of interest along the bay. In Part 2 of the elicitation, 30 volunteers participated. This time the consequence of the placement of the control points (the corresponding SEP) was visible. Comparing the results from Parts 1 and 2, it was observed that when volunteers were directly confronted with the result of the placement of the control points (a plotted SEP) a much smaller variation in the position of the SEP occurred. This implies that when feedback on the result is provided the PBSE is a more robust method.     

MEPBAY and SMC: Software tools to support different operational levels of headland-bay beach in coastal engineering projects

This paper presents MEPBAY and SMC software tools that allow comprehending and solving problems in headland-bay beach through a parabolic model. These tools can be employed as coastal engineering design tools (including nourishment designs) and also for academic purposes. They are oriented to different end-users, including coastal technicians, scientists and undergraduates and as coastal engineering design tools, they can be applied to different operational levels (pre-design and design). The aim of the paper is to present design guidelines, the capabilities of the tools, their potential use and applications. Both tools were applied to analyze San Lorenzo Beach and demonstrate their ability at different project levels.     

Application of the equilibrium planform concept to natural beaches in Northern Ireland

The equilibrium planform concept (EPC) for bayed beaches has achieved wide currency in coastal morphodynamics. The north coast of Ireland comprises a series of discrete headland-embayment beaches within which waves and currents recycle a finite sediment volume. It is therefore an ideal setting in which to explore the applicability of the concept. Application of the approach to 9 embayment beaches on the north coast of Ireland provides some insights into the application of the concept. The planform of some beaches does correspond to that predicted while others do not. Those whose measured planform does not correspond to the predicted planform can be interpreted through, (a) difficulty in identifying the wave diffraction point, (b) disequilibrium on the beach (sediment scarcity or excess), (c) geological control of beach morphology. The subjectivity in selecting the diffraction point renders alternative explanations difficult and reduces the utility of the approach on natural shorelines, where significant irregularities render identification of such points difficult.     

Multigrain sedimentation/erosion model based on cross-shore equilibrium sediment distribution: Application to nourishment design

In the light of global warming and sea level rise there are many coastal beaches that suffer from erosion. Beach nourishment has become a common practice to maintain the sediment balance on a shore-face. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical model for evaluating long-term impact of beach nourishment projects has been developed. The model addresses the longstanding complex issue of coastal morphology and sediment grain size distribution from an unconventional angle, which exploits the strong links between grain size distribution and the prevailing transport direction of each sediment constituent under ‘average’ wave and storm action. The present model predicts the redistribution of nourished sediment according to the subtle clues implied by equilibrium distribution curves and latest coastal wave transformation theories. After verification against recent field observations in Terschelling, The Netherlands, the model was used to predict long-term effects of different beach nourishment strategies. It was found that: (a) given the source sediment available in Terschelling the tactics of large volume and less frequent implementation are better than otherwise; and (b) from a pure engineering point of view, waterline nourishment outperforms offshore trough nourishment.The model offers an additional tool for coastal engineers to evaluate the feasibility, effectiveness and the optimization of dumping locations for beach nourishment projects. It is also a useful tool for stratigraphic modelling of shallow-marine sedimentation in conjunction with sea level changes.     

厦门岛会展中心海滩养护及其对我国海岸防护的启示

硬式护岸是传统的海岸防护手段.近几十年来,以养护海滩为主的软式护岸已成为欧美发达国家海岸防护的主要措施,而我国尚处于起步阶段.本文以厦门岛会展中心海岸养滩实践为例,通过分析其海岸地貌演变历史、数值模拟养滩工程方案及定期观测海滩养护后剖面的变化,论述了该工程的必要性和可行性,以及养护后海滩的稳定性.同时,结合发达国家护岸的发展趋势,对我国的护岸转型作了思考.研究表明厦门岛会展中心海滩养护工程的施工使该海岸防护方式由硬式转变为软式,工程完成后为期半年的剖面监测数据显示单位宽度留存的沙量平均为381.4 m3/m,为施工初期平均值440 m3/m的86.7％,表明该海滩基本稳定.海滩养护可以修复受损的海滩或者营造新的滨海沙滩,改善滨海城市环境,提高城市品位,促进城市滨海旅游的发展,进而带动社会经济的发展,具有社会、经济、环境、生态等多方面的效应.我国海岸防护观念正在由传统的硬结构护岸转向软式的沙滩护岸,海滩养护将是我国未来海岸防护的一种更好的措施.