The effect of a topographic high on the morphological stability of a two-inlet bay system

The cross-sectional stability of two tidal inlets connecting the same back-barrier lagoon to the ocean is investigated. The condition for equilibrium is the cross-sectional area tidal prism relationship. In an earlier study [Van de Kreeke, J., 1990. Can multiple inlets be stable? Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 30: 261–273.], using the same equilibrium condition, it was concluded that where two inlets connect the same basin to the ocean ultimately one inlet will close. One of the major assumptions in that study was that the water level in the basin fluctuated uniformly. In hindsight this assumption might be too restrictive. For example, in the Wadden Sea the back barrier lagoon consists of a series of basins, rather than one single basin, separated by topographic highs. These topographic highs limit but do not exclude the exchange of water between the sub-basins. For this reason in the present study, a topographic high in the form of a weir was added, separating the back-barrier lagoon in two sub-basins. The water level in the sub-basins, rather than in the back-barrier as a whole, is assumed to fluctuate uniformly. For this schematization the hydrodynamic equations are solved using a finite difference method. The results, together with the equilibrium condition, yield the equilibrium flow curve for each of the inlets. The intersections of the two equilibrium flow curves represent combinations of cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in equilibrium. The stability of the equilibriums was investigated using a non-linear stability analysis resulting in a flow diagram. Calculations were carried out for different inlet and weir characteristics. Sinussoidal tides were the same for both inlets. The results show that for relatively large wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high, approaching the situation of a single basin, there are no combinations of inlet cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in a stable equilibrium. This supports the conclusion in the earlier study. For relatively small wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high there is one set of stable equilibriums. In that case the two-inlet bay system approaches that of two single-inlet bay systems.     

Spit and Inlet Morphodynamics of a Tropical Coastal Lagoon

The morphological changes of spits and inlets of the Chilika lagoon, the largest brackish water tropical coastal lagoon in Asia, are investigated using real-time kinematic GPS observation and numerical models during 2009–2013. The seasonal/interannual variations of the spit and inlet cross-sectional areas with varying widths and depths are recorded in association with different physical processes. The results show significant changes in spit morphology: particularly, the south spit accreted continuously, while the middle and north spits eroded. The cross-sectional depth of inlets becomes narrower and deeper during summer and winter seasons, while they are wider and shallower during the monsoon. The model results show that sediment transport rate is larger during monsoon and summer, while it is relatively less during the winter. Alongshore, sediment transport is predominantly northward throughout the study period. The result shows that gain/loss of the spits and closure/opening of inlets are significantly controlled by the high wave power, longshore drifts, and river discharge. The study demonstrates that the combined use of observational and numerical models is very effective to understand the changes of spit and inlet morphology and their impact on ecological conditions of the lagoon environment.     

Relationships Between Tidal Prism and Throat Area of Tidal Inlets Along Yellow Sea and Bohai Sea Coasts

The relationship between P (spring tidal prism) and A (throat area below mean sea level) is statistically analysed in terms of 29 tidal inlets or bays along the Huanghai Sea (Yellow Sea) and Bohai Sea coasts. For 15 of these tidal inlets, the best regression equation is A(km2) = 0.845 />(km3)1.20. The analysis shows that C and n are little different from those in the P-A relationship for the inlets of the South China Sea and East China Sea coasts. It is noted that the relationship between P and A is unstable because of the difference in sediment abundance. The study shows that a united P-A relationship can be obtained for the tidal inlets of lagoon type and bay-drowned-valley type, not containing some half-circle shape bays which confront deep water. These half-circle bays do not belong to tidal inlets because they do not have enough sediment abundance and are fairly open.     

有多个出口的北极地区微潮咸水湖的天气导致的次潮流

Estuarine processes in the arctic lagoons are among the least studied but important subjects, especially considering the rapid warming of arctic water which may change the length of ice-free period in the summer. In this paper, wind-driven exchange flows in the micro-tidal Elson Lagoon of northern Alaska with multiple inlets of contrasting widths and depths are studied with in situ observations, statistical analysis, numerical experiments, a regression model on the basis of dynamics, and remote sensing data. Water velocity profiles were obtained from a bottom deployed acoustic Doppler current profiler(ADCP) in the northwestern Eluitkak Pass connecting the Beaufort Sea to the Elson Lagoon during a 4.9 day ice-free period in the summer of 2013. The subtidal flow is found correlated with wind(R~2 value ～96%). Frequently occurring east, northeast and north winds from the arctic atmospheric high-and low-pressure systems push water from the Beaufort Sea into the lagoon through the wide inlets on the eastern side of the lagoon, resulting in an outward flow against the wind at the narrow northwestern inlet. The counter-wind flow is a result of an uneven wind forcing acting through the asymmetric inlets and depth,an effect of "torque" or vorticity. Under northwest wind, the exchange flow at the northwestern inlet reverses its direction, with inward flows through the upwind northwestern inlet and outward flows through the downwind eastern inlets. A regression model is established based on the momentum equations and Taylor series expansions. The model is used to predict flows in July and August of 2015 and July of 2017, supported by available Landsat satellite images. About 73%–80% of the time the flows at Eluitkak Pass are out of Elson Lagoon for the summer of 2015 and 2017. Numerical experiments are conducted to corroborate the findings and illustrate the effects under various wind conditions. A quasi-steady state balance between wind force and surface pressure gradient is confirmed.     

沙坝—泻湖海岸动力地貌学研究进展

国内外对沙坝－泻湖海岸的研究主要采取动力地貌学的方法，本文评述了近一个半世纪以来在这一领域所取得的重要成果。波浪、潮汐、径流等特殊的动力场决定了泥沙输运的方式和路径，从而形成了与其相应的沙坝、泻湖、潮汐通道三大地貌体系。     

Morphological changes of the artificial inlets of the Bardawil lagoon

The topographic changes in the shoreline around the artificial inlets of the Bardawil lagoon have been studied using aerial photographs. The amount of sediment dredged during the years 1970–1977 is about 50% of the amount predicted in 1970. It is suggested that the difference between the two is the result of the ‘new’ sediment budget of the South-East Mediterranean due to the effect of Asswan High Dam.     

Applicability and intercalibration of macrophyte quality indices to characterise the ecological status of Mediterranean transitional waters: the case of the Venice lagoon

In the framework of the WFD 2000/60/EC intercalibration process the updated versions of the EEI and R‐MaQI, proposed by Italy and Greece for the transitional waters, have been applied to the macrophytes of the Venice lagoon to test their comparability and relationships with the pressure gradients. Submerged macrophytes were collected during spring 2007 at 60 sites spread within the lagoon. At each site, five random samples were collected and the total coverage of benthic macrophytes in the field was estimated based on a number of tests of the bottom. To assess seagrass epiphytes, five shoots were collected for each replicate. Physico‐chemical data were collected in the water column at 14 sites selected to reflect the main hydro‐geomorphological and trophic gradients of the lagoon. The analyses performed indicated that the two metrics appeared to be weakly intercalibrated and only the 30% of the sampling sites displayed the same quality class. The main differences fell into the Moderate and Low classes and the two indices provided discordant results in the intermediate and confined areas of the lagoon. In contrast, the two indices showed good affinity in the marine areas of inlets, which are characterised by seagrass meadows and late‐successional macroalgae. Similar results were evidenced also in a redundancy analysis by the different relationships between quality classes and the physico‐chemical gradients. The main reason for this seems to be the heterogeneity of species–environment relationships inside the groups of species on which the indices are based. Critical aspects of methodological differences and applicability of the macrophyte indices proposed by Italy and Greece for the transitional waters of the Mediterranean eco‐region are discussed.     

Process-based 2DH morphodynamic modeling of tidal inlets: A comparison with empirical classifications and theories

The economical and ecological importance of tidal inlets has fostered the development of empirical tools for inlet management during the last century. This study aims at confronting these empirical theories with results obtained with a process-based numerical model, MORSYS2D. This 2DH morphodynamic modeling system is applied to an idealized tidal inlet/lagoon system with different combinations of significant wave height, tidal range and tidal prism. The numerical model predictions are compared to the empirical models of Hayes, Bruun, O'Brien and FitzGerald and to morphologies observed at natural tidal inlets. The results present good accordance with observations as well as with some key behaviors predicted with the empirical theories. The predicted morphologies satisfy the relation of O'Brien between the tidal prism and the cross-sectional area, the model reproduces the conceptual model of sand by-passing by ebb-tidal delta breaching of FitzGerald and the classifications of Hayes and Bruun are generally respected. However, some inconsistencies between model results and Hayes classification highlight the limitations of applying this classification, which only considers the yearly-averaged significant wave height and tidal range, to a single tidal inlet case.     

Tidal and residual circulations in coupled restricted and leaky lagoons

Finite element numerical modelling based on field data is used to study the tidal and tidally induced residual circulation dynamics of a coupled “restricted” and “leaky” coastal lagoon system located in the Magdalen Islands, Gulf of Saint-Lawrence. Havre-aux-Maisons Lagoon (HML) is of a “restricted” nature with a neutral inlet in terms of tidal asymmetry. Grande-Entrée Lagoon (GEL) is of a “leaky” nature with a marked ebb dominance at the inlet due to direct interactions between the main astronomical tidal constituents. The imbalance caused by the different tidal filtering characteristics of both inlets combines with the internal morphological asymmetries of the system to produce a residual throughflow from HML to GEL. The residual circulation is also characterized by strongest values at both inlets, very weak residual currents in HML deep basin and a dipole of residual eddies over the deeper areas of GEL. Further investigations including numerical tracer experiments will be necessary to achieve a full understanding of the long term circulation of this lagoonal system.     

Hydraulic zonation of the lagoons of Marano and Grado,Italy. A modelling approach

The hydraulic regime-based zonation scheme of the Lagoons of Marano and Grado (Italy) has been derived by means of numerical models. A finite element modelling system has been used to describe the water circulation taking in account different forces such as tide, wind and rivers. The model has been validated by comparing the simulation results against measured water levels, salinity and water temperature data collected in several stations inside the lagoons. The analysis of water circulation, salinity and spatial distribution of passive tracers released at the inlets, led to a physically-based division of the lagoons system into six subbasins. The derived classification scheme is of crucial value for understanding the renewal capacity and pollutants distribution patterns in the lagoon.     

Recent sea-level changes and related engineering problems in the Lagoon of Venice (Italy)

In the city of Venice, where the average altitude is only a few tens of centimetres, there has been a dangerous increase in the frequency of flooding during the past few decades.Since 1872, the average increase in flooding levels (“acqua alta”) has been about 40cm: 27cm of this is due to the local rise in mean sea-level (of which some 14cm are related to man-induced subsidence of land, and 3–7cm to geological factors), and at least 14cm are caused by hydrodynamical factors, of which about 10cm can be ascribed to man-induced tidal changes. These latter are due above all to the dredging of deep artificial channels, the reclamation of wide areas of tidal flats, and the diking of fish ponds (“valli”), which have changed the ratio between the surface of the lagoon and that of the inlets. Since the latest modification (1963–1969), the lagoon has been open to large oil tankers, thereby allowing an easier entry of storm surges arising out at sea.Indeed an incompatibility exists between the accessibility of very large boats to the lagoon and the safeguard of Venice. Several engineering projects have been proposed with a view to improving the present critical situation. These projects include underground injections to raise the islands, the construction of new embankments, a reduction in the size of the passes, new access to wide areas for the tide, and the construction of flood gates at the passes. The reliability and effects of these projects are analysed and discussed.In conclusion, the removal of the oil terminal from the lagoon and a stricter control of water pollution are considered the most urgent preliminary actions for a long term solution of the flooding problem. This would enable a decrease in the exchanges between the lagoon and the sea, without, however, reducing the depth of the navigation channels to levels inconsistent with most of the present non-oil traffic. A final measure would be the construction of mobile gates at the passes which would permanently protect the lagoon against flooding.The solution put forward here differs however from the project proposed by a group of experts appointed by the Italian government, which aims at keeping the oil terminal inside the lagoon, thus maintaining the navigation channels at depths which increase hydrodynamic effects and make any sedimetological equilibrium in the lagoon impossible.     

Spatial and Temporal Entry Patterns of Fish Larvae into North Carolina Estuaries: Comparisons Among One Pelagic and Two Demersal Species

A sampling programme targeting larvae of winter spawning fishes immigrating from the oceanic domain into the Pamlico-Albemarle Sounds system (NC, U.S.A.) was performed at the four major inlets of the lagoon system. Sampling yielded abundant catches of three species, a Clupeid (Atlantic menhaden,Brevoortia tyrannus) and two Sciaenids (Atlantic croaker,Micropogonias undulatusand spot,Leiostomus xanthurus). In this article, the author documents the differences in the mechanisms developed for estuarine recruitment among the three species. Abundance at the tidal inlets was dependent upon numerous factors, such as sampling month, inlet, luminosity, tide flow direction and depth. The spatial and temporal positioning of the larvae differed among the species and affected their capabilities to be transported through the inlets. More specifically, spot and croaker migrated vertically within the water column in accordance with the direction of the water flow. Sciaenids minimized the outwelling effects of ebb tides by migrating into the slowest ebbing currents, near the bottom. Menhaden did not rely on vertical migrations for estuarine transport and retention. For this species, landward transport is provided either when dusk and flood onset are coincident or through non-tidal flows developing under meteorological forcing. The Sciaenids were less, or not, dependent upon these conditions. In one inlet, the retention was dependent upon the strength of the flooding and ebbing flows. In this case, the retention of the pelagic species was lower than the retention of demersal species.     

Copper complexation capacity in surface waters of the Venice Lagoon

Total copper (Cu(T)), copper ion activity (pCu) and the copper complexation capacity (CuCC) were determined in samples of seawater collected in July 2003 from the Venice Lagoon. Cu(T) and CuCC showed considerable spatial variability: Cu(T) ranged from 1.8 to 70.0nM, whereas the CuCC varied from 195 to 573nM. pCu values varied from 11.6 to 12.6 and are consistent with those previously reported in estuarine and coastal areas (10.9-14.1). The range of Cu(T) values compares well with those reported in the past in the lagoon and in the adjacent Adriatic Sea. The highest concentrations of Cu(T) were found in samples collected near the industrial area of Porto Marghera, whereas the lowest were measured near the Chioggia and Malamocco inlets, where an intense tidally-driven renewal of seawater takes place. Although CuCC showed a high degree of spatial variability, the values recorded in the Venice Lagoon are comparable to those reported in other estuarine systems. In addition, CuCC was positively correlated with dissolved organic carbon (DOC), suggesting that organic ligands responsible for Cu complexation are part of the bulk organic matter pool in the lagoon. The CuCC:Cu(T) molar ratio was, on average 55:1, indicating that a large excess of complexation capacity exists in the Venice Lagoon. The high levels of CuCC and the narrow range of pCu indicates the importance of the role played by organic ligands in controlling the free ion Cu concentrations in the lagoon, and as a consequence, regulating its availability and/or toxicity.     

Macrofaunal spatial distribution and community structure in a lagoon without a river discharge (the Oualidia lagoon,NW Morocco)

The assemblage structure and spatial distribution patterns of macrobenthic communities according to environmental conditions were analysed through five samplings carried out at 14 intertidal soft sediment stations in the Oualidia lagoon (NW Morocco). A total of 89 macrobenthic taxa were collected, amounting to 55.188 specimens. Molluscs, polychaetes and arthropods were the most species‐rich groups. The snail Peringia ulvae was the most dominant species, especially abundant in the mid‐ and upper lagoon sections (nearly 64% of the total specimens gathered), followed by the mollusc Scrobicularia plana (10%). Diversity values were generally low (<3 bit) pointing out the high dominance by few species. Multivariate analyses clearly distinguished three distinct macrobenthic assemblages, successively distributed from lagoon inlets towards inner parts. Nevertheless, each assemblage was found in particular habitat types and had a specific species composition in response to different environmental characteristics. (a) The Scolelepis fuliginosa community occupied sandy substrates at the lower section of the lagoon with stronger marine influence and, (b) the P. ulvae community lived in sandy‐muddy substrates, including two sub‐communities dominated, respectively, by Cerastoderma edule, S. plana and Tritia pfeffeiri inhabiting the middle section and S. plana the upper section. The combination of salinity, temperature, pH and silt content was identified as the major environmental variable subset with the highest correlation with the observed macrofaunal patterns and silt fraction as the single best correlated variable. The results demonstrated significant spatial differences in macrobenthic assemblage structure and composition along environmental gradients in spite of the absence of direct freshwater river inflow.     

Study of the macrophyte assemblages and application of phytobenthic indices to assess the Ecological Status of the Marano‐Grado Lagoon (Italy)

Benthic macrophytes from 19 sites within the Marano‐Grado Lagoon were sampled in July 2007 in order to update the available information on the flora and vegetation and to assess the Ecological Status (ES) within the European Water Framework Directive (WFD). Data on macrophytes were analysed using two phytobenthic indices (EEI and R‐MaQI) recently set up to evaluate the ecological status of transitional environments in the Mediterranean eco‐region. Notwithstanding the extension (c. 160 km²) that places this lagoon as the second largest Italian transitional environment, ecological studies are relatively few. The present research revealed a relatively poor flora, mainly characterized by the dominance of low‐diversity settlements of Ulvaceae. Moreover, the absence of intensive aquaculture activities and commercial big harbours, which account for the new species introductions recorded in other lagoons, limits the presence of non‐autochthonous species. The comparison with previous data ( Curiel et al. 1998 ) highlighted the reduction of macrophyte coverage and biomass, especially Ulvaceae stands, and an increase in species richness. In particular, there was evidence of a worsening of the area north of the Grado bridge. This area, which in the past was colonized by widespread angiosperm coverage, at present is almost lacking in vegetation. According to these observations, by applying both the phytobenthic indices available in the literature for the transitional environments, the Marano‐Grado Lagoon showed a ‘Good–High’ quality in the central part of the basin and near the lagoon inlets and a ‘Poor–Bad’ quality in the northern and southern areas. The evaluation of some physico‐chemical parameters, coupled with the distribution of the angiosperms, also allowed a first delineation of the main lagoon water bodies.     

Fish Larvae Abundance and Distribution in the Coastal Zone off Terminos Lagoon, Campeche (Southern Gulf of Mexico)

Fish larvae abundance and distribution in the coastal zone off Terminos Lagoon and their relation to the environmental features of the Lagoon inlets were analysed (1986–87). The sampling grid consisted of 24 stations extending between 0·5 and 10 km off the Lagoon, including both Terminos Lagoon Inlets; El Carmen and Puerto Real. A total of 23 families and 43 species were identified. Highest larval abundance was registered during the rainy period (July and September) when the fluvial discharges favoured the planktonic development. The lowest larval abundance was recorded in the period of northern cold wind (January–March) when the fluvial discharges decreased. Bray-Curtis index defined two groups of stations, corresponding to each of the lagoon inlets, persisting throughout the year. The first one, ‘ El Carmen ’, was characterized by larvae of Engraulidae and Gobiidae; estuarine-dependent inhabitants. This group could be considered as a functional extension of the Lagoon to the sea. The second group, ‘ Puerto Real ’, was characterized by highest larval abundance of marine dwellers (e.g.Opisthonema oglinumandHarengula jaguana). This situation suggests that the Puerto Real Inlet could be the main entrance of marine fishes into the Lagoon. These results indicate that the coastal zone off Terminos Lagoon constitutes an important nursery area both for species spending part of their life cycle linked to this estuarine system, and for marine species that migrate towards the Lagoon, carried by local currents.     

A morphodynamic model to simulate the seasonal closure of tidal inlets

Seasonally open tidal inlets usually occur in microtidal, wave-dominated coastal environments where strong seasonal variations of streamflow and wave climate are experienced. These inlets are closed to the ocean for a number of months every year due to the formation of sand bars across their entrances. The annual closure of these inlets inhibits ocean access for boats and could also cause deterioration of water quality in the estuary/lagoon connected to the inlet. As these estuaries/lagoons are commonly used as harbours or recreational facilities there is increased interest in keeping the inlets permanently open. A process-based numerical model capable of simulating inlet closure is invaluable in terms of identifying the natural processes governing inlet closure. As a further step, this type of model could also be used to determine the effect of any proposed engineering solutions to keep the inlet open on the adjacent beaches. A morphodynamic model capable of simulating the seasonal closure of inlets, which includes both longshore (LST) and cross-shore transport (CST) processes, was developed in this study. Application of the model to two idealised scenarios indicated that cross-shore processes govern inlet behaviour when LST rates were low. The Dean's criterion [Dean, R.G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Eng. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, pp. 208–214.] for on–offshore transport was employed to show that, for small offshore wave incidence angles, onshore transport aided inlet closure when the offshore wave steepness (H_o/L_o) was less than the critical wave steepness (H_o/L_o)_crit, while offshore transport helped to keep the inlet open when (H_o/L_o) was greater than (H_o/L_o)_crit. LST was found to be the dominant process leading to inlet closure when (H_o/L_o) was much larger than (H_o/L_o)_crit or when the offshore wave incidence angle was large.     

ON TIDAL INLETS OF CHINA

Tidal inlets should be distinguished from tidal channels which connect open sea at both ends. In China, tidal inlets may be grouped into (1) embayment-lagoon type on sandy or rocky coast, (2) estua-rine inlets on the mouths of small or medium rivers which may be on mud plain coast, and (3) artificial inlets enclosed by breakwaters. Improvement of navigation channels of these inlets follows the same principle using O'Brien P-A formula. Where accurate oceanographical and littoral drift data are not available, a careful analysis of coastal morphology and sedimentology may provide a useful clue for the evaluation of the value of inlets in navigation.     

Statistical and hydrodynamic models for the operational forecasting of floods in the Venice Lagoon

The risk of flooding in Venice has increased strongly since the beginning of the century. To reduce the damage to the city and the negative impact on the activities in the lagoon, an accurate flood warning system is necessary. This system will also be fundamental during the construction and for the efficient operation of storm surge barriers covering the three existing inlets of the lagoon. In this context new operational statistical and hydrodynamic models have been developed. Forecast winds and pressure fields which constitute basic information for the warning system have been obtained through an ad hoc Limited Area Meteorological model. It has been demonstrated that, provided that this information is available on an operational basis, the implementation of a flood warning system for Venice using the models developed is feasible. The statistical model, which is based on a multiple regression technique, extends the forecasting range of the model presently in operation at the Centro Previsioni e Segnalazioni Maree del Comune di Venezia, from 3 hrs up to 24 hrs, and presents good accuracy (estimated mean absolute errors smaller than 10 cm) for short-term forecasts up to 9 hrs. The hydrodynamic model includes all the physical processes important for the simulation of water levels and currents in coastal and marine environments. The model set-up adopted covers the entire Adriatic Sea, with a grid spacing of 6 km. Special attention has been given to the positioning of the open boundary and to the correct reproduction of the main free oscillation of the Adriatic, which is responsible for the possible recurrence of flooding after the main storm has passed. The inclusion of this model in a flood warning system is mainly intended for long-term forecasts (> 24 hrs), and can typically be used to forecast up to 3–4 days ahead, with an estimated mean absolute error smaller than 20 cm.     

Stability of some New Zealand coastal inlets

The relation of tidal compartments to entrance cross‐sectional areas is examined for 20 coastal inlets. Sixteen inlets conform to a linear relationship, which is consistent with stable entrances the sizes of which are determined by the ability of the tidal flow to transport sediment. Based on this criterion deposition should be taking place at the entrances of the other four inlets: Wellington, Lyttelton, and Akaroa harbours, and Paterson Inlet. Available data confirm this for Wellington and Lyttelton Harbours.