Simulation of storm-induced barrier island morphodynamics and flooding

Prediction of coupled storm hydrodynamics and morphodynamics is essential for accurately designing coastal flood protection measures. A numerical simulation methodology was developed and implemented to evaluate and assess engineering design solutions for storm damage reduction along the south shore of Long Island, New York, USA. This simulation methodology was applied to compute bay water levels for two major coastal storms taking into account contributions from storm surge, waves, wind, and barrier island overwash and breaching. Simulation results for breaching and bay flooding compare well to historically documented barrier island morphological change and bay high water marks.     

Numerical simulation of a low-lying barrier island's morphological response to Hurricane Katrina

Tropical cyclones that enter or form in the Gulf of Mexico generate storm surge and large waves that impact low-lying coastlines along the Gulf Coast. The Chandeleur Islands, located 161 km east of New Orleans, Louisiana, have endured numerous hurricanes that have passed nearby. Hurricane Katrina (landfall near Waveland MS, 29 Aug 2005) caused dramatic changes to the island elevation and shape. In this paper the predictability of hurricane-induced barrier island erosion and accretion is evaluated using a coupled hydrodynamic and morphodynamic model known as XBeach. Pre- and post-storm island topography was surveyed with an airborne lidar system. Numerical simulations utilized realistic surge and wave conditions determined from larger-scale hydrodynamic models. Simulations included model sensitivity tests with varying grid size and temporal resolutions. Model-predicted bathymetry/topography and post-storm survey data both showed similar patterns of island erosion, such as increased dissection by channels. However, the model under predicted the magnitude of erosion. Potential causes for under prediction include (1) errors in the initial conditions (the initial bathymetry/topography was measured three years prior to Katrina), (2) errors in the forcing conditions (a result of our omission of storms prior to Katrina and/or errors in Katrina storm conditions), and/or (3) physical processes that were omitted from the model (e.g., inclusion of sediment variations and bio-physical processes).     

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching.     

Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion

A computational procedure is developed for predicting the time-dependent, two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms due to elevated water levels and waves. The model employs the equation of sediment continuity and a dynamic equation governing the cross-shore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation levels. These equations are solved numerically by an implicit, double-sweep procedure to determine the change in position of elevation contours in the profile. Given sufficient time, the profile will evolve to a form where the depth, h, in the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline by the relationship: $\text{h = Ax}{}^{\mathrm{<mtext>2</mtext><mtext>3</mtext>}}$, which is consistent with many natural profiles and in which A depends on sediment characteristics.The model is verified qualitatively and quantitatively through application to several idealized cases and through a preliminary simulation of erosion during Hurricane Eloise. In general, the time scales for shoreline response were found to be quite long relative to natural storm systems and erosion in the early response stages was found to be sensitive to storm surge height, but much less sensitive to wave height. The model response characteristics for simulation of erosion due to time-varying storm conditions show a lag between the maximum storm surge elevation and maximum erosion with the maximum erosion rate occurring at the time of the peak surge. For the simulated erosion due to Hurricane Eloise, reasonable agreement was found between the post-hurricane dune profiles and those calculated. However, the eroded volumes were in better agreement than the profile forms as the steepening of the natural dune profiles was not reproduced in the model.     

Analysis of dune erosion processes in large-scale flume experiments

Large-scale physical model tests were conducted with different wave periods to examine the physical processes driving dune erosion. The model tests have been carried out in a flume (2DV) with a sandy dune exposed to extreme surge and wave conditions [Van Gent, M.R.A., Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., Coeveld, E.M., De Vroeg, J.H. and Van de Graaff, J., 2008. Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the effect of wave periods. Coastal Engineering. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.003.]. Detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near shore area. The data revealed that both short- and long waves are important to inner surf hydrodynamics. Depth averaged flows are directed offshore and increase towards the shore line. The corresponding mean sediment concentrations rise sharply towards the dune face (up to 50 g/l near the bed). The strong increase in the mean sediment concentration towards the dune face correlates well with the maximum wave surface slope which in turn is coupled to both the pressure gradient and the near-bed wave-breaking induced turbulence. Analysis shows that the pressure gradient is only partially coupled to the flow acceleration suggesting that the latter cannot always be used as a proxy for the first. Weak correlation is obtained with the near-bed flows related to the bed shear stress. Tests with a larger wave period resulted in a larger dune erosion volume. During these tests more wave energy (combined incident and infragravity waves) reached the dune face, but more importantly, this wave energy is dissipated by fewer waves resulting in more intense wave breakers and steeper wave fronts. It is therefore expected that the wave-breaking induced near-bed turbulence increases resulting in significantly higher (O(100%)) mean sediment concentrations. In addition the mean flow velocities are comparable, yielding a substantially larger offshore directed sediment transport capacity. This increase in offshore directed transport is only partially compensated by a concurrent increase in the wave related onshore transport capacity associated with intrawave processes, resulting in a net increase in the dune erosion rate.     

Delta lobe degradation and hurricane impacts governing large-scale coastal behavior,South-central Louisiana,USA

A large deficit in the coastal sediment budget, high rates of relative sea-level rise (~0.9 cm/year), and storm-induced current and wave erosion are forcing barrier shoreface retreat along the periphery of the Mississippi River delta plain. Additionally, conversion of interior wetlands to open water has increased the bay tidal prism, resulting in degradation of barrier islands due to inlet widening, formation of new inlets, and sediment sequestration at ebb-tidal deltas. Single-beam bathymetric surveys along a 165-km stretch of south-central Louisiana barrier coast, from Raccoon Point in Terrebonne Parish to Sandy Point in Plaquemines Parish, were conducted in 2006. These data, combined with historical bathymetry from three time periods (dating to the 1880s), provide a series of digital elevation models that were used to calculate sediment volumetric changes and determine long-term erosional-depositional trends. Dominant patterns during the 125-year period include (1) erosion of ~1.6 × 10⁹ m³ from the shoreface, forcing up to 3 km of shoreface retreat, (2) sediment deposition in coastal bights and at ebb-tidal deltas, and (3) a combined increase in tidal inlet cross-sectional area from ~41,400 m² to ~139,500 m². Bathymetric and shoreline change datasets separated by shorter time periods (sub-annual) demonstrate that these long-term trends are driven by processes associated with major hurricane impacts, and that rates of shoreface erosion are an order of magnitude greater during active hurricane seasons compared to long-term trends.     

Overwash sedimentation associated with a large-scale northeaster

The December 1, 1974 northeaster was a significant event in terms of sediment transport with 20 m³ of sand per meter of dune breach being carried onto the backdune area of Assateague Island, Maryland as overwash. Previous investigators have reported larger transport rates for landfall hurricanes, but this is the largest amount recorded for a winter northeaster. The Ash Wednesday Storm, March 6–8, 1962, was a much larger event, but no quantitative data exists for overwash deposition.The resulting sedimentary deposit can be interpreted by defining sedimentation units. Inverse sediment grading was predominant, but normal grading occurred when the material was monomineralic and the unit totally depositional in nature. The timing of the storm surge was recorded in some sections as a distinctive heavy mineral enrichment in the sediment.     

人工岛影响下的海滩修复对策研究——以海口西海岸为例

人工岛建设在缓解滨海人地矛盾的同时带来新的环境问题。本研究聚焦人工岛建设引起的岸滩侵蚀与泥沙分配失衡问题,以海口西海岸为例,建立GENESIS岸线演变模型,探讨人工岛影响下的海滩地貌演化机制,并在此基础上提出“循环养护”的海滩修复对策。主要研究结论为:①海口湾南海明珠人工岛对邻近海滩的影响以“岛后方淤积、两侧侵蚀”为显著特征,且两侧侵蚀热点区的响应幅度存在明显差异。五源河口至新国宾馆岸段侵蚀更为强烈的主导因素为物源匮乏与岸线形态外凸。②通过人工补沙与循环养护相结合的生态修复措施,可实现岸滩泥沙的合理分配与地貌的动态平衡,有效缓解人工岛引起的海岸侵蚀问题。本研究成果可为国内相似类型海岸的岸滩修复提供良好的借鉴意义。     

基于FLUENT的波浪溢流水动力数值模拟

波浪溢流现象使得海堤受到了越浪和溢流的联合作用,复杂的水动力过程会引起海堤后坡产生严重的侵蚀破坏。基于FLUENT软件建立了二维数值波浪溢流水槽模型,该模型运用UDF速度边界造波法分析在不同超高条件下海堤后坡流量和水流厚度的水力学特性。结果表明数值模拟结果与前人物理模型试验结果吻合,该模型可以真实地模拟出海堤波浪溢流现象。在此基础上进一步研究了波浪溢流中越浪和溢流在不同相对超高条件下的主导性作用,而后建立了十分准确的波浪溢流海堤后坡稳定水流厚度计算公式。     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Geological characteristics and spatial distribution of paleo-inlet channels beneath the outer banks barrier islands,North Carolina,USA

Nearly 200 km of high-resolution ground penetrating radar (GPR) data were acquired along the Outer Banks barrier island system of North Carolina, USA. GPR data combined with lithofacies and biofacies data reveal multiple depositional facies including inlet channel, flood-tide delta, overwash, peat and inner shelf. Previously undocumented paleo-inlet channels constitute a significant portion of the shallow geologic framework between Oregon Inlet and Cape Hatteras. GPR data reveal the complex stratigraphy associated with multiple sequences of cut-and-fill within inlet channels. Two types of paleochannels (non-migrating and migrating) were classified based on geometry and fill-patterns. Sediments and foraminifera collected from vibracores were correlated to GPR data to define the regional shallow stratigraphic framework. Channel-fill facies are characterized by clinoform packages, sometimes bounded by erosional surfaces, indicating variable sediment transport directions from the ocean and sound sides. Channels are incised into older flood-tide delta deposits corresponding to older inlet activity when barriers existed further seaward. Flood-tide delta deposits are capped with marsh peat and overwash units. Migrating inlet facies occur under the widest portions of the island, whereas narrow portions of the island are underlain by the non-migrating inlet facies or flood-tide delta/overwash facies. This geologic/geomorphic relationship is attributed to the successional stage of island evolution during transgression, and sediment transport processes associated with the different inlet types. The radar facies, lithofacies, and biofacies provide a comprehensive dataset that will permit more precise identification of barrier island facies in the geologic record.     

Effect of surge uncertainty on probabilistically computed dune erosion

To assess the flood protection capacity of dunes in The Netherlands, a semi-probabilistic dune-erosion prediction method is currently in use in which uncertainties in input parameters of an empirical dune erosion model were taken into account, with the exception of the uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution. Previous research has shown that the surge is by far the most influential parameter affecting erosion in the currently used erosion model, which is due both to the influence of the surge level itself and to the conditional dependence of the wave height and period on the surge level in the probabilistic model used for the assessment. Furthermore, the distribution of extreme surge levels has been shown to contain large statistical uncertainty. The inclusion of uncertainty in input variables into probabilistic models results in more extreme events (in this case erosion) for the same exceedance probability, largely due to the incorporation of higher values of the input variables. The goal of the research described in this paper was to determine the impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution on the estimate of critical erosion (erosion associated with an exceedance frequency of 10^− 5 per year). The uncertainty in the surge distributions was estimated and parameterized, and was incorporated into the probabilistic model. A reduction in uncertainty was subsequently imposed to estimate what value a reduction in uncertainty can offer, in terms of the impact on critical erosion. The probabilistic technique first-order reliability method (FORM) was applied to determine the relative contribution of the uncertainty in the surge distribution (as well as the remaining stochastic variables) to the critical erosion. The impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the surge distribution on the critical retreat distance was found to be substantial with increases ranging from 34% to 93% of the original estimate at five locations along the Dutch coast. The reduced uncertainty showed a more subtle impact, with increases in critical retreat distance ranging from 10% to 26% of the original estimate. The relative importance analysis showed that the uncertainty in the surge distribution has a strong influence, with the relative importance ranging from 10% to 23% for an exceedance frequency of 10^− 5 per year.     

Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

Geologic development and morphodynamics of Egmont Key, Florida

Egmont Key is a small, elongate island located on the huge ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of Tampa Bay, FL, USA. The multiple sets of intersecting beach/dune ridges that comprise the low-lying island indicate several periods of growth spaced between periods of erosion. The island has experienced considerable expansion and erosion during recorded history. The oldest of these ridges represents accumulation that took place about 1000 years before the present. Over the past century of well-documented change, there has been a general reduction in the area of the island as the result of extended periods of erosion punctuated by short accretion periods. The net change during this period has been a loss of approximately 40% of the area of the island. A 1-year, time-series monitoring of the Egmont shoreline during 1996–1997 showed sediment loss of 26 500 m³, while the annual average over the period of 1877–1996 was only 3360 m³. A single storm is responsible for most of this loss leading to the conclusion that the island is storm-dominated. Inferences from time intervals during which hurricanes took place support this conclusion. This island provides a major contrast in its coastal location, development and stratigraphy as compared to typical barrier islands. There is no underlying sediment deposited in shallow, paralic environments. The development of the island was lateral rather than having a vertical component through time, partly because of its relatively young age but also because of its position on a thick, ebb-tidal delta sand body.     

The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.     

Sedimentation and Boundary Changes of Virginia Salt Marshes

Sediment collections on a mainland fringing marsh, a lagoon marsh and a barrier island fringing marsh were conducted in conjunction with Geographic Information Systems (GIS) analysis of aerial photographs to relate changes in marsh area to sedimentary processes. The island marsh lost 7·2% of its area in 8 years by overwash. The lagoon marsh lost 10·6% of its area over 41 years by recession of marsh edges. The mainland marsh area increased by 8·2% over 50 years, primarily by upland encroachment. Surface sediment was collected monthly at the mainland and lagoon marshes for 1 year to identify changes in the mean grain size, organic content and mass of sediment deposited on sampling plates. Short-term variability in these characteristics obscured seasonal differences. Grain size and monthly sediment accumulation decreased towards the interior of both marshes, while the organic matter content increased. On the lagoon marsh, coarse sediment at creekside stations, as well as grain size contrasts between surface and subsurface sediment, are consistent with erosion evident in GIS analysis. On the mainland marsh, sediment does not vary as much with location or depth, and topography appears stable. Tidal currents appear to be competent to resuspend most particle sizes represented in surface sediment samples, including aggregates, except at the edge of the lagoon site. Decreasing rates of marsh edge change reflect moderation of oceanic processes, while the interior of both lagoon and mainland marshes remained stable throughout the study. Both lagoon marsh losses to recession and mainland marsh gains from upland reflect the submergence which this shoreline experiences.     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f_w = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms.     

岬湾海岸中人工岛建设对岬角涡旋及海湾地形冲淤的影响——以海南岛铺前湾为例

岬湾海岸中一般在岬角的右侧与左侧（面向大海方向）分别发育顺时针与逆时针涡流。这些涡流的存在对泥沙输运、海底地形演变、污染物扩散等都具有重要影响。而在海洋中岛屿的存在将产生局部的岛后尾流。如岛屿与岬角距离较近,岛后尾流可能与岬角涡旋相互作用,反之则相互影响较小。本文以海南岛铺前湾为例,研究在岬湾海岸中湾口处的人工岛建设对湾内涡旋的影响,并进一步分析人工岛建设对整个海湾海底冲淤变化的效应。本项研究主要采用COAWST模型进行研究。结果表明,大潮期在海湾内发育大范围的顺时针涡旋,小潮期涡旋发育不明显,以东向余流为主。人工岛建设并未影响整个海湾的涡旋结构,但人工岛分隔了湾内顺时针涡旋,且在周围产生局部的逆时针与顺时针涡旋。海底冲淤变化的基本格局为湾内以淤积为主,人工岛建设加强了这种趋势,但在人工岛与岸线之间的狭窄通道内,海底出现冲刷。本项研究对岬湾海岸的科学开发管理具有一定意义。     

The influence of tides,wind and waves on the redistribution of nourished sediment at Terschelling,The Netherlands

A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm³ nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈ 0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models.