Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

This paper presents new experimental data on 2-D surf beat generation by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups. The experimental investigation covers a broad range of wave amplitudes, short wave frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The data include measurements of incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, breakpoint position, shoreline run-up and the cross-shore structure of both the short and long wave motion. Surf beat generation is shown to be in good agreement with theory [Symonds, G., Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., 1982. Two dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492–498]. In particular, surf beat generation is dependent on the normalised surf zone width, which is a measure of the phase relationship between the seaward and shoreward breakpoint forced long waves, and linearly dependent on the short wave amplitude. The cross-shore structure of the long wave motion is also consistent with theory; at maximum and minimum surf beat generation, the mean breakpoint coincides with the nodal and anti-nodal points, respectively, for a free long wave standing at the shoreline. A numerical solution, using measured data as input, additionally shows that the phase relationship between the incident bound long wave and the outgoing breakpoint forced wave is consistent with the time-varying breakpoint mechanism.     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part II: surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves

This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves.     

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h^−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.     

Numerical study on wave-induced filtration flow across the beach face and its effects on swash zone sediment transport

A numerical model, coupling an analysis of beach groundwater flow with an analysis of swash wave motion over a uniform slope, is presented. Model calculations are performed to investigate the variations of swash-induced filtration flows across the beach face for different input parameters. Swash zone sediment transport under the influence of such filtration flow across the beach face is investigated through modification of effective weight of sediment particle and modification of swash boundary layer thickness. These effects are quantified based on a bed load transport model with a modified Shields parameter.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves

Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope.     

On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash

Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation.     

A Lagrangian model for boundary layer growth and bed shear stress in the swash zone

A new model for the boundary layer development and associated skin friction coefficients and shear stress within the swash zone is presented. The model is developed within a Lagrangian reference frame, following fluid trajectories, and can be applied to both laminar flow and smooth turbulent flow. The model is based on the momentum integral approach for steady, flat-plate boundary layers, with appropriate modifications to account for the unsteady flow regime and flow history. The model results are consistent with previous measurements of bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients within the swash zone. These indicate strong temporal and spatial variation throughout the swash cycle, and a clear distinction between the uprush and backwash phase. This variation has been previously attributed the unsteady flow regime and flow history effects, both of which are accounted for in the new model. Fluid particle trajectories and velocity are computed using the non-linear shallow water wave equations and the boundary layer growth across the entire swash zone is estimated. Predictions of the bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients agree reasonably well with direct bed shear stress measurements reported by Barnes et al. (Barnes, M.P., O’Donaghue, T., Alsina, J.M., Baldock, T.E., 2009. Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash. Coastal Engineering 56 (8), 853–867) and, for a given flow velocity, give stresses which are consistent with the bias toward uprush sediment transport which has consistently been observed in measurements. The data and modelling suggest that the backwash boundary layer is initially laminar, which results in the late development of significant bed shear during the backwash, with a transition to a turbulent boundary layer later in the backwash. A new conceptual model for the boundary layer structure at the leading edge of the swash is proposed, which accounts for both the no-slip condition at the bed and the moving wet–dry interface. However, further development of the Lagrangian Boundary Layer Model is required in order to include bore-generated turbulence and to account for variable roughness and mobile beds.     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

Analysis of wave groups by wave envelope-phase and the Hilbert Huang transform methods

The wave groups are studied by both conventional wave analysis methods and by the non-stationary Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) method. Full-scale wave records containing abnormal waves are used. Instantaneous quantities, such as envelope, phase and frequency, are adopted to study the wave grouping. A refined definition of wave group is proposed considering that the wave process is simultaneously amplitude and frequency modulated. The validation of the proposed definition is conducted by analysis of numerical simulation data. Group parameters are proposed based on the time-frequency distribution of energy. An attempt is made to find the relationship between the characteristics of abnormal waves and the group characteristics.     

Bed load transport on the shoreface by currents and waves

Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m²/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities.     

Sediment transport on an estuarine intertidal flat: Measurements and conceptual model of waves, rainfall and exchanges with a tidal creek

Sediment (silt) transport on a wave-dominated estuarine intertidal flat dissected by a tidal creek that connects to the watershed freshwater network is investigated by analysing field data from Waikopua, New Zealand, and by applying simple models. The intention is to expand understanding beyond the case of the idealised, two-dimensional wave-dominated flat. During fairweather (no waves), there is a continuous exchange of silt between the bed of the tidal creek and the upper flat, and that exchange is controlled by the elevation of the flat with respect to the creek bed. Rainfall in the watershed does not fundamentally alter the way the intertidal flat and the creek interact, but it does increase silt loads in the creek, which in turn increases the amount of silt exchanged with the upper flat. Waves on the flat are fetch-limited, and frictional dissipation causes waves to reduce in height at the edge of the water body. Under some circumstances, a frictional-dissipation zone may occupy the entire middle-plus-upper flat. There is a maximum in wave-orbital speed at the bed (U_sigb) in the middle reaches of the flat, which arises from the particular balance between down-fetch wave growth, wave dissipation by bottom friction, and attenuation through the water column of wave-orbital motions under the short-period waves. There is a progressive decoupling of suspended-silt concentration (SSC) from U_sigb moving from the bottom to the top of the flat, such that SSC is highest towards the top of the flat, where U_sigb is virtually zero. We suggest that this is due to wave activity retarding the settling of suspended silt, and explore that idea with a simple model that is capable of reproducing the essential features of the data set. The results are assimilated in a conceptual model of the system, which shows the balances that control net silt transport in the creek and on the different parts of the flat, three different silt sources, and the role of waves and rainfall. The conceptual model also points at the feedbacks between sediment-transport processes and morphology that are inherent in the system. Implications of those feedbacks to long-term morphodynamics are essentially unexplored.     

粤东后江湾近岸带风-浪-流联合作用下的泥沙输运

在现场观测资料分析基础上,应用波-流联合输沙模型,对粤东后江岬间海湾近岸带净环流、泥沙输运作用加以模拟分析,结果表明,东北东向风是形成近岸西南向净环流的主要驱动力,波浪控制了海底泥沙再悬浮和底质推移输运的过程,从而形成海湾海底地形以东北部侵蚀为主、西南部以淤积为主的发展趋势.