Uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation: Part 1

This paper aims to quantify the uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation (PBSE) for a bay in static equilibrium. By means of expert elicitation, a database was generated consisting of the position of the control points that determine the Static Equilibrium Planform (SEP). The elicitation consisted of two parts. In Part 1, 22 expert volunteers were asked to place the three control points that determine the SEP on a vertical aerial photograph of Taquaras–Taquarinhas Bay, a morphologically stable bay in the south of Brazil, approximately 1800 m in width and with an indentation of 750 m. The distribution of the location of the SEP along four evenly spaced (200 m) profiles in the southern part of the bay was determined. The overall bias of the location of the SEP calculated over the four profiles was in the order of 41 m (landward) and the average standard deviation was 116 m. These parameters increased when moving alongshore toward the curved section of the bay. This means that the uncertainty in the application of the PBSE is dependent on the particular point of interest along the bay. In Part 2 of the elicitation, 30 volunteers participated. This time the consequence of the placement of the control points (the corresponding SEP) was visible. Comparing the results from Parts 1 and 2, it was observed that when volunteers were directly confronted with the result of the placement of the control points (a plotted SEP) a much smaller variation in the position of the SEP occurred. This implies that when feedback on the result is provided the PBSE is a more robust method.     

Static bay beach concept for scientists and engineers: A review

Headland-bay beach (HBB) is one of the most prominent physiographic features on the oceanic margin of many countries in the world. Under the influence of a predominant swell, its curved periphery in natural environment may reach static equilibrium and remains stable without sediment supply from updrift and/or a riverain source within its own embayment. Coastal scientists and engineers have attempted to develop mathematical expressions to quantify this ideal bay shape since the 1940s. As the scenario with depleting sediment supply has become a common reality on many parts of the world coastline in more recent time, some coastal engineers have advocated a rational approach to mimicking the static bay shape found in nature in order to mitigate beach erosion as well as for coastal management. Nowadays, many useful applications have emerged since the publication of the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) developed for static equilibrium planform (SEP) in late 1980s. The advance in modern computer technologies and international collaboration has further facilitated the exchange of knowledge and applications of this static bay beach concept (SBBC).     

1980—2020年大湾区海岸线变迁及影响因素分析

海岸线动态变化是全球变化和人类活动共同的反映。本文基于粤港澳大湾区、东京湾和旧金山湾1980—2020年7期Landsat系列遥感影像及Google Earth高分辨率影像, 利用阈值分割, 结合水体指数法、Sobel算子法, 提取各期海岸线。从长度、空间形态、结构和利用程度等多角度分析其岸线变化, 并结合地理探测器对其影响因素进行定性和定量分析。结果显示: 1) 1980—2020年间, 各湾区岸线趋于平直, 其中东京湾海岸线的年均长度变化强度最大, 为0.37%; 2) 40a间各湾区岸线的纵深变化比较稳定, 结构趋于复杂, 形态趋于分散, 其中粤港澳大湾区海岸线的分维差异最小, 形态最分散; 3) 40a间, 各湾区的自然岸线减少, 港口码头岸线和其他人工岸线长度剧烈增长, 其中粤港澳大湾区的生物岸线波动增长, 岸线利用程度指数增幅最大。本文研究结果表明, 气温、波高、潮汐和陆域面积、港口吞吐量是湾区海岸线变化的主要影响因素, 且任意两个影响因素的交互作用大于单一因素的作用。     

渤海湾近30年海岸线变迁与分析

海湾岸线是海湾变迁监测的重要对象。文章利用美国陆地资源卫星Landsat-5/TM、Landsat-7/ETM和中国环境减灾星HJ-1A、B/CCD遥感数据,对渤海湾1986-2014年近30年来的水域面积、岸线长度和岸线分形维数进行了解译测算。结果表明,渤海湾平均高潮位的水域面积呈现不断减小的趋势,其数值由1986年的(13 909.97±3.53)km~2减少至2014年的(12 641.99±11.50)km~2;岸线长度呈现先减小再增加的变化规律,其数值由1986年的(968.41±1.84)km减少至1998年的(642.43±2.59)km,再增加至2014年的(850.94±10.78)km;渤海湾岸线分形维数从1986年的1.110 2下降至2014年的1.064 9;同时分析发现养殖场建造、围填海和港口建设等海洋工程是渤海湾岸线变迁的主要驱动力因素;渤海湾岸线分形维数与天津市国内生产总值(GDP)的倒数变化呈现线性相关系数为0.95的高相关性。文章的测算和分析结果对海湾动力学研究、环境变迁评估和海湾开发管理具有参考价值。     

东山岛东南侧近期岸滩演变及其动力成因

基于卫星遥感影像和水下地形数据,分析了近年来东山岛东南侧的岸滩演变特征。进一步,分别建立潮流、波浪、沿岸输沙数值模型,结合人类活动的影响,分析东山岛东南侧岸滩侵蚀的动力成因。研究结果表明,2002-2012年金銮湾的北侧海域海床侵蚀较为严重;1971-2003年,乌礁湾北侧湾顶呈现出侵蚀现象,2003-2012年,乌礁湾北侧湾顶由之前的侵蚀现象转变为一定的淤积趋势。主要原因如下:(1)岬角的挑流作用使得金銮湾和乌礁湾北侧岬角附近海域流速较大,容易产生冲刷侵蚀。(2)金銮湾和乌礁湾的北部波高较高,波能较大,容易遭受侵蚀。(3)金銮湾和乌礁湾北部海岸输沙强度较大,净输沙方向以自东向西为主,容易发生岸滩侵蚀。(4)20世纪90年代以来,东山岛人类活动强度增大,海滩不合理的人工建筑物、海岸防护林破坏以及养殖场的建造在一定程度上加重了侵蚀。(5)2003年后乌礁湾北侧修建了码头工程,导致近岸潮流和波浪动力有所减弱,使得侵蚀现象转变为一定的淤积。     

Study on headland-bay sandy coast stability in South China coasts

Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied.     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

渤海湾连片开发对湾内水沙通量的影响研究

渤海湾内海岸的连续开发导致岸线 、海床发生较大变化, 同时影响着湾内的水沙通量。根据不同时期的遥感影像、 实测地形和水文泥沙资料, 统计分析了渤海湾岸线 、面积和海床冲淤变化, 构建了渤海潮流泥沙数学模型, 模拟了 1984 年、 2006 年和 2015 年三个时期的水沙分布, 探究了海岸连续开发对水沙分布和通量引起的累积效应。结果表明： 渤海湾岸线和 海湾面积变化主要发生于 2005 年后, 与 1984 年相比, 2020 年的岸线长度增长超过 185%,海湾面积减少近 19%;曹妃甸港 区南侧海域冲刷基本在 2 m 等深线以内, 而近岸和港池水域基本呈现淤积状态, 淤积幅度在 2 m 以内; 海湾的连续开发利用 使得湾内分潮波振幅增大 、传播速度减缓, 近岸海域的余流变化较为明显,南部较北部海域更甚;西北湾顶 0.2 kg/m3 悬沙 分布区域不断缩小, 西南近岸 0. 15 kg/m3 悬沙分布区域向中部海域推进; 悬沙通量变化与潮流通量并不完全一致, 呈外海增 加、近岸整体降低的变化特征, 湾内向外海输移泥沙的能力减弱。     

A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

基于遥感和GIS的烟台芝罘湾海岸线变迁研究

利用RS和GIS技术,提取了1976-2016年间9个时相的芝罘湾海岸线的时空分布信息,从海岸线和海湾形态两个方面出发,分析了在人类开发活动影响下典型陆连岛地区海岸线的时空变化特征及趋势。结果表明:近40 a来,芝罘湾海岸线整体向海推进,海岸线长度整体增加了15.78 km;岸线结构变化显著,自然岸线比例持续减少,人工岸线逐渐占据主导地位;3个分岸段变化不均衡,芝罘湾西岸岸线变化最显著,而南岸变化相对较小;海湾面积逐渐向海萎缩,自1976年以来海湾面积减少了7.93 km^2。海湾形状指数增加了1.08,海湾形状整体趋于复杂化;海湾重心总体上表现为不断背离陆地而趋向海洋的特点,近40 a来海湾重心整体向海偏移了606.25 m。岸线分形维数整体增大,说明岸线趋于复杂化。     

乐清湾近期海岸演变研究

乐清湾是一个与东海相通的半封闭型强潮海湾。通过对1934,1968和1992年的海图对比研究表明:近期乐清湾各等深线所围水域面积持续减小。后一阶段,围垦使岸线推进速度加快,滩涂面积由前一阶段的不断增加转变为不断减小。1934到1968年,西南部最大潮滩华岐潮滩岸线和零米线平均外推速率分别为4.88m/a和13.24m/a;1968到1992年平均淤进速率分别为6.17m/a和8.08m/a。实地采样分析表明:表层水样平均悬沙浓度为0.1043kg/m3,从湾顶向湾口呈不断增加的趋势。悬沙浓度虽较低,但湾内处于低能动力沉积环境,有利于细颗粒沉积物落淤,这是湾内地貌演变的要因。长江入海南移和陆架区再悬浮的细颗粒物质是乐清湾主要的泥沙来源。泥沙自然淤积和人类活动影响是近期乐清湾大部分岸线处于淤进状态的原因。漩门二期工程前后乐清湾的纳潮量减小了5.73%,落潮流相对携沙能力降低为工程前的79%。而根据实测落潮平均流速计算得围垦后落潮流的相对携沙能力减弱为原来的54%。而从1934年到漩门二期围垦工程后,纳潮量减小了22.57%。开辟盐田和围垦造陆工程等人类活动,对海岸演变的影响显著。     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.     

最近50年来莱州湾东部典型砂岸潮上带土地利用变化研究

以不同时期测量和成像的地形图和高分辨率遥感影像为数据源,综合使用野外调查、遥感(RS)、全球定位系统(GPS)和地理信息系统(GIS)等方法,对最近50多年来莱州湾东部砂岸典型岸段(界河口—刁龙嘴)的土地利用变化进行研究。结果表明,最近50多年来,莱州湾东部海岸土地利用/土地覆被变化显著,土地利用类型转化的总趋势是风沙地、林地、耕地向养殖池及居民地转化。从20世纪90年代初以来,该岸段潮上带风沙地大部分已为养殖池(塘、大棚)等所覆盖,在沿海防护林和海域之间新出现了一条平行于岸线、基本连续展布的水产养殖设施带,其外侧建有高出当地最高潮位的防浪堤。潮上带土地覆被的如此深刻变化,必然深刻地改变风暴潮作用时的水动力边界条件,导致风暴潮作用过程中沿水下岸坡—海滩—潮上带方向的能量分布发生调整,进一步会对海岸地貌及冲淤发生的范围、强度、性质和形式等带来变化。因此,大面积的潮上带土地利用可能是莱州湾东部砂岸,最近30年来海岸地貌冲淤演变的重要影响因素之一,这为今后深入研究并预测该段海岸地貌冲淤变化提供了新的视角。     

Changes of seawater quality in Ofunto Bay,Iwate, after the 2011 off the Pacific coast of Tohoku Earthquake

Ofunato Bay was a semi-closed area because of the breakwater effect at the entrance; however, the breakwater was destroyed by a massive tsunami generated by the 2011 off the Pacific coast of Tohoku Earthquake. Consequently, the physical environment of Ofunato Bay has been changed significantly, i.e., the modification of the stratified structure of seawater inside the bay and the intermittent intrusion of seawater outside the bay. These alterations of physical environment are considered to have an influence on the chemical and biological environment in Ofunato Bay. To elucidate the influence of the tsunami on the aquatic environment, we measured dissolved nutrients, chlorophyll a and dissolved oxygen concentrations, and heterotrophic bacteria abundance inside and outside of Ofunato Bay from 2012 to 2014, and compared these data with those obtained before the earthquake. As compared with before the earthquake, significant changes after the earthquake were (1) decrease of ammonium and phosphate concentrations, (2) increase of chlorophyll a concentration, (3) increase of dissolved oxygen concentration in the bottom, and (4) decrease of heterotrophic bacteria abundance. The collapse of the breakwater and consequential enhanced water exchange were considered to have brought the decrease of nutrient concentration inside the bay. Furthermore, washout of shellfish mariculture rafts by the tsunami decreased the shellfish biodeposits along with the elution of nutrients by heterotrophic bacteria. Decrease of cultivated shellfish further caused a decline in feeding pressure on phytoplankton and, subsequently, increased the phytoplankton biomass that contributed to the decrease of nutrients inside the bay.     

海湾开发利用强度分析——以宁波市杭州湾、象山港与宁波市三门湾为例

海湾开发利用强度评估可反映海湾利用程度,是海湾开发潜力及其可持续开发研究的基础,对发展湾区经济意义重大.以1990—2015年每隔5 a共6期TM/ETM/OLI影像为数据源,提取宁波市杭州湾、象山港和宁波市三门湾各时期的岸线及土地利用数据,基于此从海湾岸线开发和土地利用两方面综合分析海湾开发利用强度及其变化特征.结果表明:1990—2015年间,宁波3湾岸线人工化程度不断加深,岸线人工化指数最高的海湾由象山港(0. 16)转变为宁波市三门湾(0. 61),部分淤泥岸段(尤其是宁波市杭州湾岸段)滩涂围垦强度弱于泥沙淤积强度,削弱了岸线人工化程度.整个研究期间,宁波市三门湾和宁波市杭州湾的岸线开发利用结构始终为单一主体结构,象山港则呈现出由单一主体依次向二元、多元结构演变的趋势. 1990—2015年间,宁波3湾的岸线和土地利用强度均有所增加,其中象山港岸线开发利用强度指数最大,达0. 42;宁波市杭州湾区域土地利用变动最为强烈,土地利用程度指数最大,达292. 300.区位和资源禀赋、社会经济水平及政策因素是造成宁波3湾区域开发利用程度差异的重要因素.     

丁字湾水文环境特征

本文依据丁字湾水文观测资料阐述了该湾温、盐度分布及变化特征，并对潮汐、潮流和余流进行了分析研究．结果表明：1．丁字湾温、盐度分布的月际差异明显．水温8月最高，盐度9月最低；水温日变化主要受太阳辐射的影响，盐度日变化则明显由潮汐所控制．2．该湾潮汐类型属正规半日潮，但潮汐日不等现象明显．3．该湾属于正规半日潮流区域，潮流运动以往复流为主。4．8月湾口中部余流从湾外流向湾内，湾口两端余流流向与中部相反；余流流速湾口中部大于两端。     

杭州湾潮滩沉积特性初步分析

杭州湾为典型的强潮河口湾,拥有滩涂100余万宙。本文就1981—1982年采集的150余个潮滩沉积物样品,用TAⅡ型库尔特计数器作沉积物的多项分析;通过分析,对杭州湾潮滩沉积结构特征、分布规律及其与沉积动力环境间的关系有了初步了解。     

Regularities of the formation of the granulometric composition of the bottom and beach deposits of the Anapa bay bar

As a result of the field studies conducted in 2010 of the spatial and temporal variability of the granulometric composition of the bottom and beach deposits of the southern part of the Anapa bay bar, the tendency of a decrease in the average size of the particles under the southward flow of the deposits of the coastal zone was revealed. The comparison of the data obtained in 1949, 1979, and 2010 shows that the average diameter of the particles in the deposits of the underwater slope also gradually decreases over the time. It was established that, with the decreasing of the particle sizes down to 0.1 mm, their nonrecoverable deposition to a depth of more than 7 m increases. Since, in the southern edge of the Anapa bay bar, over 70% of the bottom and about 60% of the beach deposits are represented by fractions smaller 0.16 mm, at this site the mass deposition of the sand material to a depth occurs. Based on the data obtained, the particle size of the sandy material recommended for the restoration of the beaches of the southern part of the Anapa bay bar was determined.     

粤东后江湾岸线演变模拟

以粤东后江湾出海航道两侧拟建防波堤为工程背景,应用海岸动力学原理,建立了海岸演变的一线模型。模型考虑波浪的绕射,考虑了沿岸波高不等所引起的沿岸输沙。通过实际岸线与模拟岸线的对比分析,论证了该模型是成功的。应用该模型对粤东后江湾修筑拦沙堤后的岸线演变进行预报,其结果表明,在海湾两岬角处海滩侵蚀,湾顶堤头处海滩淤积。东北岸段拦沙堤处海滩的淤积速率为5～6m/a,西南岸段为4～5m/a。     

Numerical modeling of crenulate bay shapes

A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.