Study on headland-bay sandy coast stability in South China coasts

Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied.     

海南万宁岬湾海岸海滩稳定性研究

岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海岸研究的重要内容。基于多期遥感影像、海滩沉积物粒度分布,并采用岬湾海滩平衡形态模型(MEPBAY),分析探讨了海南岛东部万宁4个典型岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其模型的应用。研究表明,除东澳湾凸角处于不稳定状态,其余海岸处于静态或准静态平衡状态;岬湾海滩沉积物粒度在遮蔽段和开敞段有明显的差异,相邻海滩之间没有明显的泥沙交换,每个岬湾海滩都是相对独立的地貌单元;模型中上岬角控制点选取应考虑岛礁及水下礁坪;抛物线模型可以拓展应用于有离岸岛情况下的海湾。研究成果可为岬湾海滩的稳定性评估和管理提供科学依据。     

Storm-induced readjustment of an embayed beach after modification by protection works

This paper examines storm-induced morphological and hydrodynamic changes after a submerged and a detached breakwater were constructed at La Barceloneta beach (Barcelona, NW Mediterranean) in 2006–2007. The shoreline configurations before and after beach nourishment and the construction of the protective structures were compared using a video dataset comprising 29 storm events spanning the pre- (2001 to 2005, n?=?17) and the post-breakwater situation (2006 to 2011, n?=?12), and hydrodynamic modelling based on the SMC coastal modelling system. As a result of the protection works, La Barceloneta was subdivided into two beaches separated by an artificial salient. The analysis of shoreline response to storms has been improved by using the shoreline hyperbolic tangent fit to represent the beach planform. Comparing the pre- and post-breakwater situations on the basis of these shoreline fits facilitated the identification of beach rotation processes because interference by smaller-scale morphological features was eliminated (e.g. the formation, changes in shape or migration of mega-cusps). In the current post-breakwater situation, there is evidence for a change in the behaviour of the north-eastern beach triggered by the submerged breakwater built in 2007. Furthermore, a counter-clockwise beach rotation has occurred at the north-eastern beach, whereas the south-western beach has experienced a clockwise beach rotation. This morphodynamic behaviour is caused by a new, complex wave-induced circulation system comprising two dominant alongshore currents flowing in opposite directions. In contrast to the pre-breakwater situation, the alongshore component of the radiation stress does not accomplish beach rotation in the post-breakwater situation.     

Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts

The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches.     

岬湾海滩沉积动力地貌研究

岬湾海滩是砂质海岸稳定性及其演变的重要内容.介绍了岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型、海滩平衡剖面模式、海滩剖面主要类型的判别以及海岸泥沙运动,其中着重评述了现今岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型和海滩平衡剖面模式.通过它们的优缺点分析,认为人工神经网络模型是未来新型平面形态模型改进的方向;海滩平衡剖面模式分段使用,亦或2种或多种模式配合...     

The coast between Cabo de Santa Maria (Portugal) and Rabat (Morocco): a mega-size headland-bay shoreline under control of the North Atlantic swell?

Equilibrium headland-bay beach systems have been mathematically described by logarithmic, parabolic and hyperbolic curve functions. The largest system of this type reported to date has a shoreline length of about 62 km. In the present study, an apparent headland-bay system is presented which has a shoreline length of about 500 km. It was discovered on satellite images, and is located between Cabo de Santa Maria in Portugal and the coastal city of Rabat in Morocco. It appears to be controlled by long-period North Atlantic swells diffracting around Cabo São Vicente at the south-western tip of Portugal, in combination with SW–SE wind wave climates impinging on the northern shoreline of Cádiz Bay. The coast shows two marked departures from the equilibrium shoreline along its central section north and south of the Strait of Gibraltar, which are easily explained. Thus, the promontories to the north of the strait still exist because there has not been sufficient time to erode these back to the equilibrium shoreline since postglacial sea-level recovery. The coastal indentation to the south is explained by an insufficient sediment supply from terrestrial sources to facilitate the required beach accretion. Perfectly adjusted planimetric headland-bay shoreline shapes represent situations where wave orthogonals approach the coast at right angles everywhere, i.e. there is no longer any alongshore sediment transport. Equilibrium shorelines form independently of the grain size of the beach sediment, whereas morphodynamic beach states are indirectly affected by the shoreline shapes because the latter are modulated by wave period and breaker height which also control the morphodynamic response of the beach in combination with the local grain size.     

Prediction of geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

Breaking wave loads on coastal structures depend primarily on the type of wave breaking at the instant of impact. When a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face called the “perfect breaking”, the greatest impact forces are produced. The correct prediction of impact forces from perfect breaking of waves on seawalls and breakwaters is closely dependent on the accurate determination of their configurations at breaking. The present study is concerned with the determination of the geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite-type breakwaters by employing artificial neural networks. Using a set of laboratory data, the breaker crest height, h_b, breaker height, H_b, and water depth in front of the wall, d_w, from perfect breaking of waves on composite breakwaters are predicted using the artificial neural network technique and the results are compared with those obtained from linear and multi-linear regression models. The comparisons of the predicted results from the present models with measured data show that the h_b, H_b and d_w values, which represent the geometry of waves breaking directly on composite breakwaters, can be predicted more accurately by artificial neural networks compared to linear and multi-linear regressions.     

静态平衡岬湾海岸理论及其在黄、渤海海岸的应用

岬湾海岸是一种稳定的海岸存在形式,在天然海岸中岬湾地貌占51%。岬湾海岸研究是研究砂质海岸稳定性及演变的重要内容。岬湾海岸理论在海岸稳定性、海岸工程预测以及海岸综合治理方面有其重要的工程价值。文中详细讨论了岬湾理论中最具工程意义的抛物线型岬湾海岸线及基于静态平衡岬湾海岸理论开发的可视化应用软件MEPBay在海岸工程中的应用,并验证了该理论对黄、渤海海岸的适用性。MEPBay软件不仅有助于理解海岸形态过程,也是海岸工程师在岸线保护及海岸管理实践中的有力辅助工具。     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

Shoreline response to multi-functional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modelling study

The results of a series of 2DH numerical and 3D scaled physical modelling tests indicate that processes governing shoreline response to submerged structures, such as artificial surfing reefs, are different from those associated with emergent offshore breakwaters. Unlike the case of emergent offshore breakwaters, where shoreline accretion (salient development) is expected under all structural/environmental conditions, the principal mode of shoreline response to submerged structures can vary between erosive and accretive, depending on the offshore distance to the structure. The predominant wave incidence angle and structure crest level also have important implications on the magnitude of shoreline response, but not on the mode of shoreline response (i.e. erosion vs. accretion). Based on the results obtained here, a predictive empirical relationship is proposed as a preliminary engineering tool to assess shoreline response to submerged structures.     

Prediction of significant wave height using regressive support vector machines

Wave parameters prediction is an important issue in coastal and offshore engineering. In this literature, several models and methods are introduced. In the recent years, the well-known soft computing approaches, such as artificial neural networks, fuzzy and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference systems and etc., have been known as novel methods to form intelligent systems, these approaches has also been used to predict wave parameters, as well. It is not a long time that support vector machine (SVM) is introduced as a strong machine learning and data mining tool. In this paper, it is used to predict significant wave height (H_s). The data set used in this study comprises wave wind data gathered from deep water locations in Lake Michigan. Current wind speed (u) and those belonging up to six previous hours are given as input variables, while the significant wave height is the output parameter. The SVM results are compared with those of artificial neural networks, multi-layer perceptron (MLP) and radial basis function (RBF) models. The results show that SVM can be successfully used for prediction of H_s. Furthermore, comparisons indicate that the error statistics of SVM model marginally outperforms ANN even with much less computational time required.     

Sediment transport along an artificial shoreline: “The Strand”, Townsville,NE-Queensland,Australia

Construction measures to stabilise or spatially extend coastlines have become a routine measure in urbanised coastal zones. This study quantifies beach profile changes and sediment transport along an artificial beach in Townsville, NE-Queensland. The “Strand” was transformed from a single degraded shoreline into a shoreline with five embayments (or “pocket beaches”) split by four artificial rocky headlands in 1998. The modified shoreline has had an impact on the local and regional northward long-shore sediment pathway, creating local shifts in sand. Sediment deposition and erosion occur at the same time at different parts of the pocket beaches. Collected offshore sediments show that little artificial sand is transported more than a few meters seaward in the south-eastern part of the Strand, while substantial and long-ranging export, i.e., tens to hundreds of meters, occurs in the north-western area. This is mainly the result of the breakwaters south of the Strand, which impacts the predominant northward long-shore sediment transport induced by the dominant south-easterly winds.     

Multi-decadal shoreline change and beach connectivity in a high-energy sand system

ABSTRACT

Understanding how and why the world’s coastlines are changing is a pressing international concern in a context of rising sea levels, increased climatic variability and intensifying coastal development. Medium to long-term records of coastal change are rare worldwide and often limited to individual beach compartments. This study presents a 70-year (1940–2010) aerial imagery record to compare decadal changes in shoreline position across four high-energy west coast beaches near Auckland, New Zealand/Aotearoa: Whatipu, Karekare, Piha and Te Henga (Bethells). The common exposure of these adjacent mesotidal beaches to changing wind and wave conditions might, if they present the dominant controls on shoreline position, be expected to produce synchronous change. Whatipu (935?m), Piha (32?m) and Te Henga (52?m) showed net overall progradation for the study period, while Karekare retreated slightly (?4.1?m). All except Whatipu underwent periods of beachwide erosion. Shoreline change was not coherent between beaches, despite similar exposure to variations in wind, wave and sea level. Variable sediment supply from northward littoral drift is implicated as the primary control on decadal-scale shoreline change for these beaches, highlighting the importance of local context in influencing shoreline response to changing environmental conditions.     

1986–2019年粤东企望湾砂质海岸线演变过程与驱动机制研究

本文采用1986–2019年113景Landsat影像提取高潮线,辅以2015–2019年实测剖面数据,开展了海湾尺度上海岸线的中长期演变过程与驱动机制研究。结果表明：企望湾以中间小型基岩岬角为界划分出的西侧海滩和东侧海滩分别具备4种和3种不同的空间特征;超过一半的区域其海岸线演变表现为非线性行为;Mann-Kendall趋势检验和显著性分析方法较好地解决了已有研究中对研究时段划分缺乏依据的问题;近5年的实测剖面数据也验证了企望湾近期显著的淤积和侵蚀现象。进一步研究表明,自西向东的沿岸输沙过程是近期海岸线演变主要的驱动机制,东侧防波堤因为改变了控制性“岬角”的位置,造成了海湾平面形态不平衡,而中间小型基岩岬角也影响了企望湾侵蚀和淤积的空间差异性。研究结果对于预测未来岸线位置和控制岸线侵蚀风险具有重要的理论和现实意义。     

岬间海湾平面平衡形态研究进展

岬间海湾平面平衡形态规律的研究是砂质海岸稳定与演变研究的重要内容.简要回顾了岬间海湾平面形态规律的研究进展,着重介绍了研究海湾平衡形态的五个模型.通过评述平衡形态模型的优缺点,指出机理分析和经验拟合相结合应该为以后海湾平面平衡形态规律的研究发展方向,并论述了我国岬间砂质海湾平面平衡形态研究的重要意义.     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

Modelling the cross-shore profiles of sand beaches using artificial neural networks

Abstract

Artificial neural networks (ANN) have been widely used successfully to solve coastal engineering problems. In this article, they are used to model the cross-shore profile of sandy beaches taking into account the possible effect of marine vegetation (Posidonia oceanica). Sixty ANNs were generated by modifying both the inputs and the number of neurons in the hidden layer. The best results were obtained with the following inputs: wave height perpendicular to the coast and the associated period and probability of occurrence, median sediment size, profile slope, and energy reduction factor due to P. oceanica. With these inputs and 10 neurons in the hidden layer, a mean absolute error of 0.22?m during training and 0.21?m during the test was obtained, which represents an improvement of 81.2% and 55.5% compared to models without and with P. oceanica.     

Artificial intelligence-based hull structural plate corrosion damage detection and recognition using convolutional neural network

With the support of big data and GPU acceleration training, the artificial intelligence technology with deep learning as its core is developing rapidly and has been widely used in many fields. At the same time, feature extraction operations are required by the current image-based corrosion damage detection method in the field of ships, with little effect but consuming the large amount of manpower and financial resources. Therefore, a new method for hull structural plate corrosion damage detection and recognition based on artificial intelligence using convolutional neural network is proposed. The convolutional neural network (CNN) model is trained through a large number of classified corrosion damage images to obtain a classifier model. Then the classifier model is used with overlap-scanning sliding window algorithm to recognize and position the location of corrosion damage. Finally, the damage detection pattern for hull structural plate corrosion damage as well as other types of superficial structural damage using convolutional neural network is proposed, which can accelerate the application of artificial intelligence technology into the field of naval architecture & ocean engineering.     

Numerical modeling of crenulate bay shapes

A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.     

Use of artificial neural networks to identify the origin of green macroalgae

This study demonstrates application of artificial neural networks (ANNs) for identifying the origin of green macroalgae (Enteromorpha sp. and Cladophora sp.) according to their concentrations of Cd, Cu, Ni, Zn, Mn, Pb, Na, Ca, K and Mg. Earlier studies confirmed that algae can be used for biomonitoring surveys of metal contaminants in coastal areas of the Southern Baltic. The same data sets were classified with the use of different structures of radial basis function (RBF) and multilayer perceptron (MLP) networks. The selected networks were able to classify the samples according to their geographical origin, i.e. Southern Baltic, Gulf of Gdańsk and Vistula Lagoon. Additionally in the case of macroalgae from the Gulf of Gdańsk, the networks enabled the discrimination of samples according to areas of contrasting levels of pollution. Hence this study shows that artificial neural networks can be a valuable tool in biomonitoring studies.