近岸波浪浅水变形的非线性分析

本文就近岸波浪具有非线性特征提出了应用椭圆余弦波理论来研究波浪浅水变形的非线性问题。本文在椭圆余弦波数值计算的基础上，进一步分析了浅水波浪在ＨＬ~２／Ｄ~３＞２６情形下波高的变化规律，其中考虑了床面底摩擦、底坡和传质水流等因素对波高变化的影响及相应的程度分析。计算结果分析表明，浅水波浪的非线性性质和底部摩擦对波高变化的影响不能忽略，这对确定海岸工程标高有较大的实际意义和经济价值。     

双矩形浮子波能装置辐射问题的解析方法

在有限水深下1个漂浮在水中的矩形浮子和1个淹没在水下的浮子构成双矩形波能装置模型。基于特征函数展开法求解了线性入射波作用下双矩形浮子波能装置的辐射问题,得出了双矩形浮子辐射速度势的1种新解析式,然后根据Haskind关系由入射势和辐射势来计算波浪激励力,并且采用数值方法对相同算例进行了计算,得到了完全一致的结果,从而证明这种方法是正确的。研究了在不同工况下的波浪激励力和系统的水动力学系数变化的规律。     

正交直墙前直立圆柱的波浪绕射的解析研究

应用镜像原理,将正交直墙前单个圆柱的波浪绕射问题,转化为4个对称布置圆柱的4向入射波浪的绕射问题。然后应用速度势的特征展开方法和Graf加法定理,建立了正交直墙前垂直圆柱的波浪绕射解析解。通过数值计算研究了圆柱与正交直墙间距离大小、波浪入射角等因素与圆柱上总波浪作用力的解析关系。     

A nonlinear wave profile correction of the diffraction of a wave by a long breakwater: Fixed point approach

The authors of the present paper have suggested an iterative scheme to calculate the nonlinear wave profiles [Jang and Kwon, 2005. Application of nonlinear iteration scheme to the nonlinear water wave problem: Stokes wave. Ocean Engineering 32, 1862–1872]. The scheme was shown to be good for estimating nonlinear wave profiles. In the study, the iterative scheme is applied to the wave-diffraction problem by a long breakwater to calculate a diffracted wave by the breakwater. The iterative solution of diffraction was compared with the linear solution of Sommerfeld, 1896. [Mathematische Theoried der Diffraction. Mathematical Annals 47, 317–374]. For a small wave slope, the two solutions were in good agreement. However, the scheme enabled us to observe the nonlinear behaviors of a beating phenomenon and of wave profile such as Stokes’ wave for a relatively large wave slope: as the wave slope becomes larger, we can examine the nonlinear wave characteristics of the actual shapes of waves, i.e., the crests are steeper and the troughs are flatter.     

On the distribution of second order pressure on a vertical circular cylinder

This paper shows how the second order wave pressure on the submerged surface of a body may be obtained without solving the boundary value problem for the second order velocity potential. The corresponding analytical solution for a vertical circular cylinder is developed, and selected results are presented which illustrate a number of novel phenomena not occurring in first order diffraction analysis.     

Similarity solution of oblique impact of wedge-shaped water column on wedged coastal structures

The initial stage of plunging wave impact obliquely on coastal structures is analysed. The problem is modelled through an oblique collision of an asymmetrical water wedge and an asymmetrical solid wedge. The gravity effect on the flow is ignored based on the assumption that the ratio of the incoming speed of the wave to the acceleration due to gravity is much larger than the time scale of interest. Similarity solution method based on the velocity potential theory is then used. The problem of this similarity flow is solved by a boundary element method through the Cauchy theorem in the complex plan. Results for the wave elevation and pressure distribution are provided, including the forces and moments, effects of different impact angles and the effects of oblique impact are investigated. In particular, negative pressure near the tip of the solid wedge is observed and its implications are discussed.     

Wave Action on Structures of Combined Cylinders

1.Introduction Owingtoitssignificanteffectofreductionofwaveloadsandwaverun up,theperforatedwallon anarrayofcylindricalstructureshasreceivedconsiderableattentioninrecentyears.Manyresearches havebeencarriedoutinthisfield.Anexactsolutionforthediffractionoflinearwaterwaveswithan arrayofimpermeablecylinderswasfirstgivenbySpringandMonkmeyer(1974)usinganeigenfunction expansionapproach.Subsequently,LintonandEvans(1990)madeamajorsimplificationtothetheo ry,whichallowedthenear fieldquantitiessuchasload…     

Dragged surge motion of tension leg platforms and strained elastic tethers

This paper presents an analytical solution for the dynamic behavior of both the platform and tethers in the tension leg platform system when the platform system is subjected to the wave-induced surge motion and the flow-induced drag motion. Along with the analysis the coupling problem of a two dimensional tension leg platform interacting with a monochromatic linear wave train in an inviscid and incompressible fluid is being considered. The scattering problem and radiation problem are first solved independently and then combined together to resolve for all unknowns. The dynamic behavior of the platform and tethers was further solved based on these solutions. The material property and the dimensional effect for the tether incorporated in the tension leg platform system are both taken into account in the analytical analysis. Corresponding to the variation of material properties and tether dimensions, it was found that the dynamic behavior of both the tether of tension leg platform and the platform itself is closely related to the material property and the dimension of the tether.     

直立浮式柱群波浪荷载计算

为了研究类似张力腿平台（ＴＬＰ）等海洋工程结构物的运动,浮式直立柱群的波浪荷载计算是十分重要的。应用匹配渐进和特征函数展开法得到单柱流场速度势的半解析解,再引入大间距假设,将柱群中某一柱体对其它柱体的扰动作用用平面入射波来代替。同时对该问题进行了非平面波修正,计入柱间水动力相互作用,解决了柱群的绕射问题。应用该方法计算了不同条件下的双柱波浪荷载的幅频特征。     

海底边坡稳定性分析中波浪力的求解

针对浅水区波浪的非线性特性,提出了在海底边坡稳定性分析中应用椭圆余弦波理论来研究波浪力的问题,利用非线性弥散关系建立了新的适用于整个水深范围的椭圆余弦波的近似求解方法.结合工程实例,确立了海底边坡波浪力的计算步骤,并编制了计算程序.     

Oblique wave interaction with a floating structure near a wall with stepped bottom

Diffraction of obliquely incident waves by a floating structure near a wall with step-type bottom topography is investigated under the three-dimensional small amplitude wave theory. Full solution of the problem under the potential flow approach is obtained by the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The wave-induced forces on the structure and on the wall, the reflection and transmission characteristics and the wave elevations in the free surface regions are studied for different incident wave angles, water depth ratios and dimension of the structure and the distance of the wall from the center of the structure. The problem is reformulated under shallow water approximations and results are compared with the finite depth results.     

Coherent reflection of an acoustic plane wave from a random sediment layer over an elastic sea floor

The problem of coherent reflection of an acoustic plane wave from a seabed consisting of a randomly inhomogeneous sediment layer overlying a uniform elastic sea floor is considered in this analysis. The random perturbation in the sediment layer is attributable to the sound-speed variations, resulting in volume scattering due to medium inhomogeneities. An approach based upon perturbation theory, combining with a derived Green's function for a slab bounded above and below, respectively, by a fluid and an elastic half-space, is employed to obtain an analytic solution for the coherent field in the sediment layer. A linear system is then constructed to facilitate the computation of the coherent reflection field. The results of the coherent reflection coefficient for various sediment randomness, frequency, sediment thickness, and sea floor elasticity have been numerically generated and analyzed. It is found that the higher/larger the randomness, frequency, thickness, and shear-wave speed, the lower is the coherent reflection. Physical interpretations for the characteristics of the various results are provided.     

Mean drift forces on an articulated column oscillating in a wave tank

An analytical solution is presented for calculating the regular wave induced respones of an articulated column in a wave tank. Extension of the procedure leads to calculation of second order mean drift forces and moments. Hydrodynamic interaction between a cylindrical column and the parallel walls of the tank is shown theoretically to be highly significant and experimental data are presented to corroborate this finding.     

非线性弱色散波内部流场的重构

基于势流理论和级数直接求逆方法,本文建立了基于Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程或Ｇｒｅｅｎ－Ｎａｇｈｄｉ方程给出的水深平均流速或某特征流速及波面信息重构非线性弱色散波内部流场的算法。以Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的孤立波解为例,用本反演方法计算了孤立波的表面水平流速及底部水平流速。结果表明本算法是有效的。本反演算法可用于获取非线性弱色散波的内部流场的详细信息。     

有界赤道大洋波包解及其年际年代际变率

Linearized shallow water perturbation equations with approximation in an equatorial β plane are used to obtain the analytical solution of wave packet anomalies in the upper bounded equatorial ocean. The main results are as follows. The wave packet is a superposition of eastward travelling Kelvin waves and westward travelling Rossby waves with the slowest speed, and satisfies the boundary conditions of eastern and western coasts, respectively.The decay coefficient of this solution to the north and south sides of the equator is inversely proportional only to the phase velocity of Kelvin waves in the upper water. The oscillation frequency of the wave packet, which is also the natural frequency of the ocean, is proportional to its mode number and the phase velocity of Kelvin waves and is inversely proportional to the length of the equatorial ocean in the east-west direction. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 1 most of the time appear as zonal flows with the same direction. They reach the maximum at the center of the equatorial ocean and decay rapidly away from the equator, manifested as equatorially trapped waves. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 2 appear as the zonal flows with the same direction most of the time in half of the ocean, and are always 0 at the center of the entire ocean which indicates stagnation, while decaying away from the equator with the same speed as that of Mode 1. The spatial structure and oscillation period of the wave packet solution of Mode 1 and Mode 2 are consistent with the changing periods of the surface spatial field and time coefficient of the first and second modes of complex empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis of flow anomalies in the actual equatorial ocean. This indicates that the solution does exist in the real ocean, and that El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation(ENSO) and Indian Ocean dipole(IOD) are both related to Mode 2.After considering the Indonesian throughflow, we can obtain the length of bounded equatorial ocean by taking the sum of that of the tropical Indian Ocean and the tropical Pacific Ocean, thus this wave packet can also explain the decadal variability(about 20 a) of the equatorial Pacific and Indian Oceans.     

Modeling nonlinear wave–wave interactions with the elliptic mild slope equation

An approach is developed to simulate wave–wave interactions using nonlinear elliptic mild-slope equation in domains where wave reflection, refraction, diffraction and breaking effects must also be considered. This involves the construction of an efficient solution procedure including effective boundary treatment, modification of the nonlinear equation to resolve convergence issues, and validation of the overall approach. For solving the second-order boundary-value problem, the Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) scheme is employed, and the use of approximate boundary conditions is supplemented, for improved accuracy, with internal wave generation method and dissipative sponge layers. The performance of the nonlinear model is investigated for a range of practical wave conditions involving reflection, diffraction and shoaling in the presence of nonlinear wave–wave interactions. In addition, the transformation of a wave spectrum due to nonlinear shoaling and breaking, and nonlinear resonance inside a rectangular harbor are simulated. Numerical calculations are compared with the results from other relevant nonlinear models and experimental data available in literature. Results show that the approach developed here performs reasonably well, and has thus improved the applicability of this class of wave transformation models.     

圆柱形沉浮式深海养殖网箱的受力分析

应用一系列力学关系，研究了深海圆柱形沉浮式养殖网箱所承受的波浪力情况。导出深海沉浮式养殖网箱的运动方程，并给出数值计算。在网箱波浪力的研究中采用绕射理论和Morison方程，讨论了在波高、波长及周期变化下水动力的变化趋势，得出网箱所受到的水平波浪力远大于竖直波浪力，波高的变化对波浪力的影响最大的结论，为深海网箱的设计校核提供1种参考方法。     

Total horizontal and vertical forces of irregular waves on partially perforated caisson breakwaters

In this study, the total horizontal and vertical forces as well as the phase differences of irregular waves on a partially perforated caisson breakwater are investigated. The partially perforated caisson is located on a rubble fill foundation and filled with rock. Based on linear potential theory, a simple semi-analytical solution of the present problem is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method and the finite element method. Experimental tests are also conducted to validate the theoretical model and examine the wave forces acting on the perforated caisson. The effects of some of the main factors on the total wave forces and the phase difference are examined. Theoretical and experimental studies show that when the total horizontal force reaches its peak, the simultaneous total vertical (upward) force is rather small or even becomes downwards. This is due to the existence of an obvious phase difference between the time histories of the total horizontal and vertical forces, which is an important advantage of perforated caissons over traditional structures.     

Simplified Method and Improved Solution for Deriving Fifth Order Stokes Wave

As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave de-rived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious,the two equations are simplified into one equation for deter-mining d/L,i.e.,f(H,T,d/L)=0.According to this simplified method,three cases of the solution forthe Skjelbreia equations have been found:one accurate solution;more than one accurate solution and noaccurate solution(but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreiaequations).As to the case of more than one accurate solution,the reasonable solution can be judged fromthe method of variational principle,by means of which an optimum solution improved from the solutionof Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex andnonlinear wave theory,i.e.,the optimum fifth order Stokes wave,is given.     

没水倾斜板式防波堤消波性能分析

提出了一种将波浪中倾斜板问题等效化简为波浪中水平板单元组的方法,该方法建立在使用分离变量法求解水工结构边值问题的基础上,并使用伽辽金法精确求解连续边界条件,确定考虑衰减波态的速度势函数,从而求解没水倾斜板结构的消波性能。等效化简法计算精度于边界元法相当,且计算单元数量少、开销低。基于二维线性势波理论,对没水倾斜板式防波堤消波性能分析显示,没水板的倾斜角度、没水深度与板长是结构消波性能的控制因素:没水倾斜板防波堤的消波性能优于没水水平板防波堤的消波性能,随着没水板结构的倾斜角度增大,没水倾斜板结构的波浪透射系数显著减小,且长板优于短板,浅板优于深板;与前人的水槽实验对比显示,相对没水深度与波陡影响结构的消波性能,且波陡造成的波浪破碎贡献了显著的波能消耗。该结论对板式防波堤的结构配置、优化设计有重要意义。