Climate shifts and coastal changes in a geological perspective. A contribution to integrated coastal zone management

This Special Issue deals with the impact of climate change on western European coastal systems. Notwithstanding the inherent problems of studying geological data in terms of climate shifts, the results show that on the meso- and the macroscale of time, climatic forcing is a major drive for coastal change. However, its impact is largely influenced by other factors. Sediment availability plays a dominant role in the evolution of coastal systems and it can be considered one of the most important thresholds at the land-ocean interface. Sea-level changes are expected to have a significant impact on most European coasts. There is particular concern for the tidally influenced flats and marshes, and for those coastal areas known to have already a net sediment deficit and to be threatened by erosion. Areas where isostatic uplift has countered sea-level rise until now, are expected to become subject to coastal erosion in the near future under an accelerated sea-level rise scenario. The sensitivity and vulnerability of coastal systems to climate shifts is shown to be largely controlled by storm magnitude and fetch. A particular case of vulnerability is the impact of tsunamis. Finally, the consequences of human interference have been demonstrated in many cases. The implementation of geoscientific studies for rational, comprehensive and cost-effective strategies on a regional or national level of integrated coastal zone management is reviewed.     

Geophysical prospection for late Holocene burials in coastal environments: Possibilities and problems from a pilot study in South Australia

Geophysical techniques have been widely employed for the noninvasive location of burial sites in archaeological and forensic investigations. This approach has met with varying degrees of success, depending on factors such as equipment choice, survey methodology, burial type, and geological setting. This paper reports the results of a multitechnique geophysical survey carried out immediately prior to the salvage excavation of two Indigenous burials from an eolian dune in coastal South Australia. Ground‐penetrating radar was not successful in defining the location of the burials owing to the disturbed nature of the local stratigraphy. Magnetic field intensity and apparent magnetic susceptibility surveys identified discrete anomalies that coincided with the location of skeletal material revealed during excavation, which we hypothesize to be due to burning or ochre use during funerary practices. Despite the spatial association of these features, subsequent laboratory analyses of the mineralogy and magnetic properties of sediments collected from the site failed to find a definite cause of the anomalies. Nevertheless, the association between them and the primary interment locations has implications for archaeological surveys carried out in the Australian coastal zone, as it highlights the potential of magnetic field intensity and apparent magnetic susceptibility geophysical techniques undertaken with a more refined survey methodology to afford a noninvasive, culturally appropriate means through which to detect Indigenous burials. This approach may prove particularly useful in areas with disturbed stratigraphy where ground‐penetrating radar is less effective. © 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.     

A thirty-year artificial recharge experiment in a coastal aquifer in an arid zone: The Teboulba aquifer system (Tunisian Sahel)

With the increased demand for groundwater resulting from fast demographic growth, accelerated urbanization, economic and agricultural activity diversification, and the increase of per capita consumption, ground water resources, in particular in coastal regions, remain relatively low, compared to demand. The groundwater quality and piezometric variations result mainly from intensive exploitation, agricultural activities and the intrusion of seawater. This phenomenon is observed mostly in semi-arid areas, such as the oriental Sahel of Tunisia, where an apparent reduction in rainfall in recent years can be seen. Groundwater becomes overexploited especially as its natural recharge by rainwater does not succeed in maintaining the hydrologic balance. The imbalance between water demand and resources induces the degradation of the water quality. In such a case, the artificial recharge of water-table aquifers by water from dams is a credible alternative to improve the hydrodynamic and physicochemical conditions of the groundwater. Like most coastal aquifers, the Teboulba water-table aquifer is threatened by overexploitation for at least three decades. This threat appears by a considerable piezometric level drop and by water salinisation, due to seawater intrusion. Given this alarming situation, since 1971, artificial recharge through wells with surface water from a dam was tested in order to restore the water levels and to improve water quality. The piezometric and chemical surveys of the Teboulba aquifer permitted one to describe the temporal and spatial piezometric and geochemical conditions of the aquifer and to show the effect of the artificial recharge. Indeed, the artificial recharge undertaken since 1971 made the geochemical and piezometric conditions of the Teboulba aquifer improve. This example is a rare, well-documented case-study of the benefits of artificial recharge in a coastal aquifer, over the long term.     

Field validation of a habitat suitability index model for the American oyster

A habitat suitability index (HSI) model, developed for the American oyster,Crassostrea virginica, along the Gulf of Mexico, was field tested on 38 0.1-ha reef and nonreef sites in Galveston Bay, Texas. The HSI depends upon six (HSI1) or, optionally, eight (HSI2) variables. The six variables are percent of bottom covered with suitable cultch (V₁), mean summer water salinity (V₂), mean abundance of living oysters (V₃) (a gregarious settling factor), historic mean water salinity (V₄), frequency of killing floods (V₅), and substrate firmness (V₆). The optional variables are the abundance of the southern oyster drillThais haemostoma (V₇), and the intensity of the oyster pathogenPerkinsus marinus (V₈). The HSI values were lowest at high and low salinity sites and highest at intermediate-salinity sites. To validate the model, the hypothesis that the output of the HSI model was correlated with oyster density was therefore tested. A significant correlation was found between HSI1 and oyster density (Kendall Tau Beta correlation coefficient, τ=0.674, p<0.001, n=38); however, a statistical independence problem exists with the above test, that is, oyster density is both the independent standard for the test and a variable in the model. A regression model was constructed to test the relationship between log-transformed oyster density values (dependent variable) and the other variables of the model (independent variables). Most variation (r²=0.72, r=0.85) in the log-transformed density values were explained by a regression model that contained V₂, V₄, V₅, V₆, V₇, and V₈ as independent variables. The regression model was useful in constructing a modified HSI model (MHSI). A significant correlation (τ=0.674, p<0.05, n=10) was found between MHSI1 values and oyster densities from reefs closed to harvesting. The MHSI improves upon the original model by (i) simplifying the model structure, (ii) removing the requirement to measure V₃, (iii) accounting better for the negative effects of high salinity, disease, and parasitism upon oysters, and (iv) eliminating the statistical independence problem by dropping V₃ from the model. The MHSI should be tested against a new, independently-collected data set.     

Erosion of river terraces as a component of large catchment sediment budgets: A pilot study from the Gangetic Plain

Erosion of river terraces and alluvial interfluves in large catchments may be a significant source of sediment, but is not readily included in sediment budgets because quantification is not straightforward. Here a pond on a large river terrace on the Gangetic Plain in northern India provides: an estimate of the proportion of sheet and rill erosion products that reaches a valley floor and, by analogy, the amount that reaches a channel that drains to a major river; and insights into the sensitivity of this delivery to climate change and land use. Comparison is made between the rate of delivery of the products of sheet and rill erosion to a valley floor with approximate sediment yield from gullies indicating that the latter is likely to be a more significant source of sediment. This is a pilot study and its limitations can guide future research. The construction of sediment budgets in many large catchments worldwide could potentially include the approach reported here. The study also contributes to understanding of human–environment interactions, specifically with regard to sheet erosion of agricultural soils.     

Tsunami-induced scour at coastal roadways: a laboratory study

Coastal roads are lifelines for bringing emergency personnel and equipment into affected areas after tsunamis, thus careful thought should be given to how to make roadways safer from tsunamis. Scouring at roadways is the primary damage caused by tsunamis; however, tsunami-induced scouring and beach erosion are less understood compared to tsunami runup and tsunami inundation. A set of laboratory experiments are reported in this study on tsunami-induced scour at a road model situated on a sandy beach. Our experiments showed that the distance between the shoreline and a roadway, which varies with tides, was a key factor affecting the scour depth at the road. Having the coastal road at about half of the inundation distance is not the most ideal location. The depth of road embedment did not affect the scour depth in our experiments. It was also found that for typical tsunamis, the scour depth is unlikely to reach its equilibrium stage. The information reported in this study is useful for local authorities to assess potential tsunami damage of roads and to have a better plan for tsunami disaster relief.     

Dissolved organic matter fluorescence spectroscopy as a tool to estimate biological activity in a coastal zone submitted to anthropogenic inputs

Here we report on an investigation of the three-dimensional excitation-emission-matrix (EEM) fluorescence spectra of unconcentrated water samples collected in 1996, 1998 and 1999 at a site particularly propitious for macro-algae development. The degradation of these macro-algae was studied to determine the influence of their exudates on natural water EEM fluorescence spectra. This work demonstrates that biological activity is one of the major factors involved in the formation of the blue-shifted fluorescence band observed in marine waters (β component Ex/Em=310–320 nm/380–410 nm); our study also shows that fluorescence can be used to evaluate the biological activity both quantitatively and to determine its different phases.     

The use of mineral magnetic analyses in the study of glacial diamicts: A pilot study

Mineral magnetic methods of characterising glacial diamicts and their associated sediments are applied to deposits within the Manx Quaternary sequence. The possible advantages of these techniques over more traditional methods of sediment characterisation are outlined, and the results obtained in a pilot study are examined. Results show that both distinctions and similarities exist within the magnetic mineral assemblages of the four diamict units studied. The possible implications of these results for interpreting the Late Quaternary history of the Isle of Man and the future potential of the techniques are briefly discussed.     

The extended economic zone,the coastal state,and economic development

The recently created exclusive economic zones constitute windfall gains for some coastal states. However, windfall gains, such as the New World's gold for Spain and oil for OPEC, are notoriously difficult to transform into permanent wealth and income streams. These difficulties are discussed in this paper. In addition, a case study of the asset values of fisheries in areas of the NW and W Central Pacific Ocean is presented in detail. For nine countries, the changes in catch, both quantity and value, which resulted from establishment of the EEZ are used as estimators of the windfall gains.     

Modelling December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami: a coastal study

December 2004 tsunami in the Indian Ocean region has been simulated using MIKE-21 HD model. The vertical displacement of the seabed is incorporated into the numerical simulation by using time-varying bathymetry data. In the open ocean, sea surface height from altimeter observation has been used to validate the model results. To the west of the rupture zone, the crest is observed to precede the trough of the tsunami waves while to the east, trough preceded the crest. The model performance along the coastal region has been validated using de-tided sea levels from tide gauge measurements at Tuticorin, Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip ports along the east coast of India. Unique coastal characteristics of the tsunami waves, wave height, and wave celerity are reasonably simulated by the numerical model. Spectral analysis of tide gauge observations and corresponding model results has been done, and the distribution of frequency peaks from the analysis of gauge observations and the model results is observed to have a reasonable comparison. Low-frequency waves, contributed from the coastally trapped edge waves, are found to dominate both the tide gauge observations and the model results. The subsequent increase in the tsunami wave height observed at Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip has been explained on the basis of coastally trapped edge waves. From the validation studies using altimeter data and tide gauge data, it is observed that the model can be used effectively to simulate the tsunami wave height in the offshore as well as in the coastal region with satisfying performance.     

Volcanic emissions and atmospheric pollution:A study of nanoparticles

The influence of emissions of an active volcano on the composition of nanoparticles and ultrafine road dust was identified in an urban area of the Andes.Although many cities are close to active volcanoes,few studies have evaluated their influence in road dust composition.Air quality in urban areas is significantly affected by nonexhaust emissions(e.g.road dust,brake wear,tire wear),however,natural sources such as volcanoes also impact the chemical composition of the particles.In this study,elements from volcanic emissions such as Si>Al>Fe>Ca>K>Mg,and Si-Al with K were identified as complex hydrates.Similarly,As,Hg,Cd,Pb,As,H,Cd,Pb,V,and salammoniac were observed in nanoparticles and ultrafine material.Mineral composition was detected in the order of quartz>mullite>calcite>kaolinite>illite>goethite>magnetite>zircon>monazite,in addition to salammoniac,a tracer of volcanic sources.The foregoing analysis reflects the importance of carrying out more studies relating the influence of volcanic emissions in road dust in order to protect human health.The road dust load(RD₁₀)ranged between 0.8 and 26.8 mg m^?2in the city.     

Quantifying the effects of environmental change on an oyster population: A modeling study

Three models are combined to investigate the effects of changes in environmental conditions on the population structure of the Eastern oyster,Crassostrea virginica. The first model, a time-dependent model of the oyster population as described in Powell et al. (1992, 1994, 1995a,b, 1996, 1997) and Hofmann et al. (1992, 1994, 1995), tracks the distribution, development, spawning, and mortality of sessile oyster populations. The second model, a time-dependent larval growth model as described in Dekshenieks et al. (1993), simulates larval growth and mortality. The final model, a finite element hydrodynamic model, simulates the circulation in Galveston Bay, Texas. The coupled post-settlement-larval model (the oyster model) runs within the finite element grid at locations that include known oyster reef habitats. The oyster model was first forced with 5 yr of mean environmental conditions to provide a reference simulation for Galveston Bay. Additional simulations considered the effects of long-term increases and decreases in freshwater inflow and temperature, as well as decreases in food concentration and total seston on Galveston Bay oyster populations. In general, the simulations show that salinity is the primary environmental factor controling the spatial extent of oyster distribution within the estuary. Results also indicate a need to consider all environmental factors when attempting to predict the response of oyster populations; it is the superposition of a combination of these factors that determines the state of the population. The results from this study allow predictions to be made concerning the effects of environmental change on the status of oyster populations, both within Galveston Bay and within other estuarine systems supporting oyster populations.     

海底地下水排放:重要的海岸带陆海相互作用过程

沿海地区海底地下水排放在北美和欧洲等发达地区受到了越来越多的重视,被认为是一个重要的海岸带陆海相互作用过程。但这一过程在我国尚未引起足够认识,有关研究极少见。海底地下水排放的研究历史不长,只是近十多年才有了快速的发展,有了越来越多的定量研究成果。其研究方法主要有水文计算法、现场实测法和地球化学示踪法,各种方法之间的对比实验是目前的热点问题。沿海地下水排放具有重要的环境意义,它可以是陆地营养物质和污染物质的一个重要排放通道,可以对海岸带环境产生一定影响。我国沿海地区应该加强有关的研究工作,为海岸带环境管理作出贡献。     

Uncertainty, subjectivity, experience: a comparative pilot study

Mean tendencies and variances of ad hoc mean estimates (field estimates) of some engineering geological parameters were compared to statistically obtained reference values. The latter correspond to the “best” estimates in the sense of approximating so-called reality (Einstein and Baecher, 1982. Probabilistic and statistical methods in engineering geology. Problem statement and introduction to solution. Rock Mech., Suppl. 12: 47–61; Einstein and Baecher, 1983. Probabilistic and statistical methods in engineering geology. Specific methods and examples, Part I: Exploration. Rock Mech. Rock Eng., 16: 39–72). The study was carried out by means of a demoscopic field study on 43 engineering geologists. “Professional experience” was examined by comparing the estimation results of two trial groups, one consisting of people with several years of professional experience, the other one consisting of university students. The biases of the ad hoc estimates due to subjectivity and the limitation of working time at the selected reference outcrops follow statistically describable trends and thus can be analyzed by univariate and multivariate methods. Some geological and psychological hypotheses concerning the mean estimation trends, correlations and discriminations are postulated. Implications on commonly used field estimation methods are discussed.