常底坡有限宽陆架诱导阻尼波的一种模型

在文献[1]中,作者曾给出了f-平面上陆架诱导阻尼波的无因次方程组及相应的诸无因次参数,就一个底坡均匀的有限宽陆架上自由波模型给出了它的解,并仅对非弥散陆架波和半无限宽陆架上的零阶边缘波这两种特殊情形下的弥散关系作了分析。作为推     

非匀质波场波向响应模式

本文基于波能平衡方程,通过考虑波浪传播项,即［Ｃｇ（ｆ,θ）Ｅ（ｆ,θ）］ ≠０ ,理论上导出了非匀质波场波向对变风向的响应模式;研究了波场非匀质性对波向响应的影响;导出了有限风区波浪产生的非匀质情形下平均波向与无因次风区的关系;同时还进行了某些讨论。     

非匀质波场波向响应模式

本文基于波能平衡方程,通过考虑波浪传播项,即Δ↓「Ｃｓ（ｆ,θ）Ｅ（ｆ,θ）」≠０,理论上导出了非均质波场波向对变风向的响应模式,研究了波场非匀质性对波向响应的影响;导出了有限风区波浪产生的非均质情形下平均波向与无因次风区的关系;同时还进行了某些讨论。     

半封闭矩形海湾中潮波反射问题及摩擦的影响

本文严格求解了半封闭矩形海湾中潮波运动的解析解,该解对潮波的描述与其观测特征和前人的研究成果一致.我们利用求解的结果;阐明了开尔文波复反射系数的物理意义,讨论了反射开尔文波的位相滞后规律,并初步解释了位相滞后的原因.其次,我们发现,对于无摩擦的反射过程,产生的Poincaré波族是由两组具有不同初相的波组成的,这两个初相恰好相差90°,最后,对于考虑底摩擦作用的情形,讨论了摩擦对各波波幅与位相的影响。     

破碎波群间隔统计分布

基于一系列实验室风浪破碎实验,讨论破碎波群间隔的统计分布。实验时风速分别设定在6～9 m/s间几个不同的风速水平,破碎波群间隔定义为两个相继发生破碎的波群中破碎首发时刻之间的时间间隔,破碎依据波面信号和实验者同步记录的破碎标记信号判别,分布拟合检验采用Kolmogorov-Smirnov检验。数据分析结果表明:1)所有实验信号的破碎波群间隔都服从Gamma分布;2)低风速情形的破碎波群间隔大多服从指数分布——Gamma分布的一种特殊情形;3)相同实验条件下的破碎波群间隔具有相同的分布。这意味着破碎波群的发生可以视为一种更新过程。     

关于重力表面波非线性相互作用

本文利用小摄动法在作者以前求得的二阶近似解的基础上给出任意水深重力表面波非线性相互作用的四阶近似理论解(包括基本波系波数矢固定、频率摄动和波数矢、频率皆固定二种情况),并由此得四阶近似推进波,三向波及斜向波与直墙相互作用的理论解.     

变系数KdV方程在海洋内孤立波的应用

本文讨论了变系数KdV方程的一种求解方法及其理论应用。首先利用解析解给出初值条件,其次通过龙格库塔法结合显格式差分法对方程进行离散,并运用MATLAB软件编程求出方程的数值解。为了更好地体现孤立波的特性,本文选取了不同的初始波形,以研究孤立波的极性转换、线性化及频散产生尾波等典型情形,并将此理论用于实际海洋的孤立波分析中,以便更简洁直观地了解内孤立波的特性。     

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力垂向分布

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应.     

浮式生产储油系统内孤立波载荷特性实验

将置于大尺度密度分层水槽上下层流体中的两块垂直板反方向平推,以基于MCC理论解的内孤立波诱导上下层流体中的层平均水平速度作为其运动速度,发展了一种振幅可控的双推板内孤立波实验室造波方法,并对内孤立波作用下浮式生产储油系统(FPSO)的载荷特性开展了系列实验。结果表明,无因次内孤立波水平力和力矩幅值均与先导内孤立子无因次振幅之间呈线性关系,其斜率与上下层流体深度比有关;在各种上下层流体深度比下,无因次内孤立波垂向力幅值与先导内孤立子振幅之间近似呈幂函数关系。     

时间平均基本气流中的定常Rossby波频散及能量西传特征

本文利用正压无辐散模式讨论时间平均基本气流中的行星波活动特性。结果表明,当经向基本气流v≠0时,Rossby波在东风带(u<0)和西风带(u>0)里均存在振荡解。此外,在一定条件下,定常Rossby波能量可以向西传播。本文给出了定常Rossby波能量西传的充分必要条件,并且求得了波包能量传播路径的近似方程。所得结论可以解释埃尔尼诺与大气和海洋环流之间的某些遥相关现象,从而加深了对海、气环流异常物理机制的认识。     

NONLINEAR INTERACTIONS AMONG GRAVITY SURFACE WAVES

Based on the perturbation method, a fourth order theory for nonlinear interactions among three dimensional gravity waves in water of any uniform depth is presented in this paper. Two cases are considered: ( i ) wave number vectors fixed, frequencies perturbed, and ( ii ) wave number vectors and frequencies both fixed. According to this solution, expressions of thesame order for progressive waves, short-crested waves and nonlinear interaction between wave and vertical wall are also derived'     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Nonlinear wave interaction with a vertical circular cylinder. Part II: Wave run-up

Theoretical results for second-order wave run-up around a large diameter vertical circular cylinder are compared to results of 22 laboratory experiments conducted in regular nonlinear waves. In general, the second-order theory explains a significant portion of the nonlinear wave run-up distribution measured at all angles around the cylinder. At the front of the cylinder, for example, measured maximum run-up exceeds linear theory by 44% on average but exceeds the nonlinear theory by only 11% on average. In some cases, both measured run-up and the second-order theory exceed the linear prediction by more than 50%. Similar results are found at the rear of the cylinder where the second-order theory predicts a large increase in wave amplitude for cases where the linear diffraction theory predicts little or no increase. Overall, the nonlinear diffraction theory is found to be valid for the same relative depth and wave steepness conditions applicable to Stokes second-order plane-wave theory. In the last section of the paper, design curves are presented for estimating the maximum second-order wave run-up for a wide range of conditions in terms of the relative depth, relative cylinder size, and wave steepness.     

Internal tide and nonlinear internal wave behavior at the continental slope in the northern south China Sea

A field program to measure acoustic propagation characteristics and physical oceanography was undertaken in April and May 2001 in the northern South China Sea. Fluctuating ocean properties were measured with 21 moorings in water of 350- to 71-m depth near the continental slope. The sea floor at the site is gradually sloped at depths less than 90 m, but the deeper area is steppy, having gradual slopes over large areas that are near critical for diurnal internal waves and steep steps between those areas that account for much of the depth change. Large-amplitude nonlinear internal gravity waves incident on the site from the east were observed to change amplitude, horizontal length scale, and energy when shoaling. Beginning as relatively narrow solitary waves of depression, these waves continued onto the shelf much broadened in horizontal scale, where they were trailed by numerous waves of elevation (alternatively described as oscillations) that first appeared in the continental slope region. Internal gravity waves of both diurnal and semidiurnal tidal frequencies (internal tides) were also observed to propagate into shallow water from deeper water, with the diurnal waves dominating. The internal tides were at times sufficiently nonlinear to break down into bores and groups of high-frequency nonlinear internal waves.     

Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.     

Experimental investigation of the harmonic generation by waves over a submerged plate

Experiments in a wave flume have been performed to analyse the nonlinear interaction between regular gravity waves and a submerged horizontal plate used as breakwater. A new method, based on the Doppler shift generated by a moving probes, has been used to discriminate the incident fundamental mode and the reflected fundamental mode. The relationships of the reflection and transmission coefficients to the wave number at different submergence depth ratios are presented. The accurate discrimination, by this method, of the phase-locked and free modes allows the quantification of the higher harmonics generated by the breakwater and the analysis of the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the submerged plate. The transfer of energy from the fundamental mode to higher harmonics is very large in the cases of small submergence depth ratios. The vortices produced at the edges take part in the production of higher harmonics by interaction with the free surface but involve, at the same time, a dissipation process that increases the efficiency of the breakwater.     

Monthly variation of some parameters about internal solitary waves in the South China sea

In this paper, by non-dimensional analysis, it is found that finite-depth theory is more appropriate to the study of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the South China Sea (SCS) than shallow-water theory. The 1-degree grid data of monthly mean temperature and salinity data at standard levels in the SCS are used to solve the linearized vertical eigenvalue problem. The nonlinear parameter and the wave phase speed are computed, then the nonlinear phase speed and the characteristic half-width of ISWs are calculated respectively by two different theories to investigate the difference between these two parameters in the SCS. The nonlinearity is the strongest near the continental slope of the SCS or islands where the bottom topography changes sharply, it is stronger in summer than that in winter; it increases (decreases) as pycnocline depth deepens (shallows), stratification strengthens (weakens) and pycnocline thickness thins (thickens). The nonlinear wave phase speed and the characteristic half-width are the largest in deep sea area, they then reduce peripherally in shallower water. The nonlinear wave phase speed in the SCS changes slightly with time, but the characteristic half-width changes somewhat larger with time. In most of the SCS basin, the nonlinear wave phase speed derived from shallow-water theory is very close to that derived from finite-depth theory, but the characteristic half-width derived from shallow-water theory is about 0.2–0.6 times larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. The ISW induced horizontal current velocity derived from shallow-water theory is larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. Some observed and numerical modeled ISW characteristic half-widths are compared with those derived from shallow-water and finite-depth theories, respectively. It is shown that, the characteristic half-widths derived from finite-depth theory agree better with observational and numerical modeled results than those derived from shallow-water theory in most cases, finite-depth theory is more applicable to the estimation of ISW characteristic half-widths in the northern SCS. It is also suggested that, to derive the precise ISW parameters in further study, the physical non-dimensional ratios which are related with ISW characteristic half-width, amplitude, thermocline and water depths should be calculated, so that an appropriate theory can be chosen for estimation.     

Analysis of Wave Nonlinear Dispersion Relations

1. Introduction The application of the equation taking into account the weak nonlinearity along with the specificboundary condition is a very important and feasible way to study the wave field influenced by weak non linearity, including refraction, diffraction and shoaling. Results of study show that the method can givesufficient accuracy for practical purposes (Booij, 1981; Hedges, 1987; Choi, 1995; Dingemans,1997; Zhu and Hong, 2001; Li and Yu, 2002; Inan and Balas, 2002; Sun and Ga…