The effects of river discharge and seasonal winds on the shelf off southeastern South America

The Río de la Plata waters form a low salinity tongue that affects the circulation, stratification and the distributions of nutrients and biological species over a wide extent of the adjacent continental shelf. The plume of coastal waters presents a seasonal meridional displacement reaching lower latitudes (28°S) during austral winter and 32°S during summer. Historical data suggests that the wind causes the alongshore shift, with southwesterly (SW) winds forcing the plume to lower latitudes in winter while summer dominant northeasterly (NE) winds force its southward retreat. To establish the connection between wind and outflow variations on the distribution of the coastal waters, we conducted two quasi-synoptic surveys in the region of Plata influence on the continental shelf and slope of southeastern South America, between Mar del Plata, Argentina and the northern coast of Santa Catarina, Brazil. We observed that: (A) SW winds dominating in winter force the northward spreading of the plume to low latitudes even during low river discharge periods; (B) NE winds displace the plume southward and spread the low salinity waters offshore over the entire width of the continental shelf east of the Plata estuary. The southward retreat of the plume in summer leads to a volume decrease of low salinity waters over the shelf. This volume is compensated by an increase of Tropical waters, which dominate the northern shelf. The subsurface transition between Subantarctic and Subtropical Shelf Waters, the Subtropical Shelf Front, and the subsurface water mass distribution, however, present minor seasonal variations. Along shore winds also influence the dynamics and water mass variations along the continental shelf area. In areas under the influence of river discharge, Subtropical Shelf Waters are kept away from the coastal region. When low salinity waters retreat southward, NE winds induce a coastal upwelling system near Santa Marta Cape. In summer, solar radiation promotes the establishment of a strong thermocline that increases buoyancy and further enhances the offshore displacement of low salinity waters under the action of NE winds.     

Mechanisms controlling the intra-annual mesoscale variability of SST and SPM in the southern North Sea

Thermal and optical remote sensing data were used to investigate the spatial and temporal distribution of sea surface temperature (SST) and of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in the southern North Sea. Monthly SST composites showed pronounced seasonal warming of the southern North Sea and delineated the English coastal and continental coastal waters. The East-Anglia Plume is the dominant feature of the English coastal waters in the winter and autumn SPM composites, and the Rhine region of freshwater influence (ROFI), including the Flemish Banks, is the dominant feature of the continental waters. These mesoscale spatial structures are also influenced by the evolution of fronts, such as the seasonal front separating well-mixed water in the southern Bight, from the seasonally stratified central North Sea waters. A harmonic analysis of the SST and SPM images showed pronounced seasonal variability, as well as spring-neap variations in the level of tidal mixing in the East Anglia Plume, the Rhine ROFI and central North Sea. The harmonic analysis indicates the important role played by the local meteorology and tides in governing the SST and near-surface SPM concentrations in the southern North Sea. In the summer, thermal stratification affects the visibility of SPM to satellite sensors in the waters to the north of the Flamborough and Frisian Fronts. Haline stratification plays an important role in the visibility of SPM in the Rhine ROFI throughout the year. When stratified, both regions typically exhibit low surface SPM values. A numerical model study, together with the harmonic analysis, highlights the importance of tides and waves in controlling the stratification in the southern North Sea and hence the visibility of SPM.     

Eutrophication—The future marine coastal nuisance?

Increased inputs of nutrients to marine coastal areas over the last decades have created a basis for eutrophication of the waters surrounding Sweden. In combination with relatively low water exchange in these vertically stratified and almost non-tidal waters, local and regional effects of increased macro-algal biomass, and decreased oxygen concentrations in bottom water leading to mortalities of benthic animals and decreased fish catches have at times been observed. The effects were first noted in the Baltic, but are now obvious also in Swedish and Danish coastal areas in the Kattegat and the Belt Sea. Similar symptoms have recently also been recorded off the Danish North Sea coast. Other shallow coastal and shelf areas, where stratification occurs, can be regarded as potentially eutrophic risk areas.     

Observations of semidiurnal internal tidal currents off central Chile (36.6°S)

Observations of semidiurnal internal tidal currents from three moorings deployed on the continental shelf off central Chile during summer and winter of 2005 are reported. The spectra of the baroclinic currents showed large peaks at the semidiurnal band with a dominant counterclockwise rotation, which was consistent with internal wave activity. The amplitude of the barotropic tidal currents varied according to the spring–neap cycle following the sea level fluctuations. In contrast, the amplitudes of the internal tide showed high spatial-temporal variability not directly related to the spring–neap modulation. Near the middle of the continental shelf and near the coast (San Vicente Bay) the variance of the semidiurnal baroclinic current is larger than the variance of its barotropic counterpart. The vertical structure of the baroclinic tidal current fluctuations was similar to the structure of the first baroclinic internal wave mode. In general, in the three study sites the variance of the baroclinic current was larger near the surface and bottom and tended to show a minimum value at mid depths. Kinetic energy related to semidiurnal internal waves was larger in winter when stratification of the water column was stronger. During summer, upwelling and the decrease of freshwater input from nearby rivers reduced the vertical density stratification. The amplitude of the semidiurnal internal tide showed a tendency to be enhanced with increasing stratification as observed in other upwelling areas. The continental shelf break and submarine canyons, which limit the continental shelf in the alongshore direction, represent near-critical slopes for the semidiurnal period and are suggested to be the main internal tide generation sites in the study region.     

A numerical study of the effect of the marginal sea on coastal upwelling in a non-linear inertial model

Inertia theory and the finite element method are used to investigate the effect of marginal seas on coastal upwelling. In contrast to much previous research on wind-driven upwelling, this paper does not consider localized wind effects, but focuses instead on temperature stratification, the slope of the continental shelf, and the background flow field. Finite element method, which is both faster and more robust than finite difference method in solving problems with complex boundary conditions, was developed to solve the partial differential equations that govern coastal upwelling. Our results demonstrate that the environment of the marginal sea plays an important role in coastal upwelling. First, the background flow at the outer boundary is the main driving force of upwelling. As the background flow strengthens, the overall velocity of cross-shelf flow increases and the horizontal scale of the upwelling front widens, and this is accompanied by the movement of the upwelling front further offshore. Second, temperature stratification determines the direction of cross-shelf flows, with strong stratification favoring a narrow and intense upwelling zone. Third, the slope of the continental shelf plays an important role in controlling the intensity of upwelling and the height that upwelling may reach: the steeper the slope, the lower height of the upwelling. An additional phenomenon that should be noted is upwelling separation, which occurs even without a local wind force in the nonlinear model.     

The Guajira upwelling system

The coastal upwelled waters of the Guajira coast, the most northerly peninsula of South America, were studied on the basis of historical data bases, remotely sensed data, and three oceanographic cruises. The Guajira Peninsula is the locus of particularly strong upwelling because it protrudes into the Caribbean Low-Level Wind Jet and its west coast parallels the direction of the strongest winds. The year-round upwelling varies with the wind forcing: strongest in December–March and July, and weakest in the October–November rainy season. The east–west temperature, salinity and density front that delimits the upwelling lies over the shelf edge in the east of the peninsula but separates from the south-westward trending topography to the west. A coastal westward surface jet geostrophically adjusted to the upwelling flows along the front, and an eastward sub-surface counterflow is trapped against the Guajira continental slope. The undercurrent shoals toward the western limit of the upwelling, Santa Marta, beyond which point it extends to the surface. Some of the westward jet re-circulates inshore with the counterflow but part continues directly west to form an upwelling filament. Much of the mesoscale variation is associated with upwelling filaments, which expel cooler, chlorophyll-rich coastal upwelling waters westward and northward into the Caribbean Sea. Freshwater plumes from the Magdalena and Orinoco rivers influence the area strongly, and outflow from Lake Maracaibo interacts directly with upwelled waters off Guajira. Another important factor is the Aeolian input of dust from the Guajira desert by episodes of offshore winds.     

Stable and unstable barotropic shelf waves in a coastal current

Abstract

We consider the linearized stability of a barotropic coastal current flowing parallel to a straight coastline over a continental shelf and slope whose depth varies monotonically with distance from the coast. Some necessary conditions for stability and various semi-circle theorems are reviewed for general current profiles and bottom topography. A criterion for topography to be a destabilizing influence is derived. Some general results for stable waves are also described. Analytic solutions are obtained for a piece-wise linear current profile and the exponential depth profile (Buchwald and Adams, 1968). Dispersion diagrams are obtained for a monotonic current profile, where it is shown that the effect of topography is destabilizing, and for a triangular current profile. The dispersion diagrams generally contain a finite number (usually one or two) of unstable waves, and a set of stable waves, which may be infinite in number. The results are applied to some specific coastal regimes.     

Numerical experiments on the generation of long ocean waves in coastal waters of the Buenos Aires province,Argentina

A numerical model (two horizontal dimensions, vertically integrated) is used to investigate the generation of long ocean waves, ranging from 20 min to almost 2 h, at Buenos Aires continental shelf. The domain includes the Río de la Plata estuary and the continental shelf together and extends from 33.5° to 40.5°S latitude, and from 51° to 63°W longitude. Sea-level oscillations are modeled by forcing with passage of atmospheric cold fronts and atmospheric gravity waves. Both forcing mechanisms, which have been present during high activity lapses of long ocean waves, are mathematically implemented. After several numerical simulations, it is concluded that the pressure and wind fields associated to cold fronts do not generate long ocean waves in the area, though they do produce disturbances with periods longer than the tidal ones. On the other hand, it is so concluded that atmospheric gravity waves are an effective mechanism to force long ocean waves. Results obtained show that generation of long ocean waves is highly sensitive depending on the propagation direction and the phase speed of the atmospheric gravity waves. The long ocean wave event detected during the large-amplitude gravity-wave event of 13 October 1985 is successfully simulated. Finally, all our results suggest that atmospheric gravity waves are a highly effective mechanism forcing for the generation of long ocean waves in Buenos Aires coastal waters.     

Patos Lagoon outflow within the Río de la Plata plume using an airborne salinity mapper: Observing an embedded plume

Major river systems discharging into continental shelf waters frequently form buoyant coastal currents that propagate along the continental shelf in the direction of coastal trapped wave propagation (with the coast on the right/left, in the northern/southern hemisphere). The combined flow of the Uruguay and Paraná Rivers, which discharges freshwater into the Río de la Plata estuary (Lat. ∼36°S), often gives rise to a buoyant coastal current (the ‘Plata plume’) that extends northward along the continental shelf off Uruguay and Southern Brazil. Depending upon the prevailing rainfall, wind and tidal conditions, the Patos/Mirim Lagoon complex (Lat. ∼32°S) may also produce a freshwater outflow plume that expands across the inner continental shelf. Under these circumstances the Patos outflow plume can be embedded in temperature, salinity and current fields that are strongly influenced by the larger Plata plume. The purpose of this paper is to present observations of such an embedded plume structure and to determine the dynamical characteristics of the ambient and embedded plumes.     

Vertical mixing and elements of mesoscale dynamics over North Carolina shelf and contiguous Gulf Stream waters

Results of microstructure measurements conducted in October–November of 2015 as a part of the Coupled Air Sea Processes and Electromagnetic Ducting Research (CASPER) project are discussed. The measurements were taken on the North Carolina shelf and across the Gulf Stream front. On the shelf, the oceanic stratification was influenced by highly variable surface salinity and along-bottom advection. Vertical mixing was mostly governed by variable winds. The vertical eddy diffusivity was estimated using the VMP-based dissipation measurements, and the diffusivity values obtained during calm periods and stormy winds were compared. Parameterization of the diffusivity for various mesoscale dynamical conditions is discussed in terms of shear instabilities and internal wave-generated turbulence based on data obtained in deep waters of the Gulf Stream and on the continental slope.     

Cold anticyclonic eddies formed from cold pool water in the southern Middle Atlantic Bight

AVHRR satellite imagery of the southern Mid-Atlantic Bight during May 1993 revealed a large area of cold water over the shelf break and slope that appeared to spin up into a series of southward propagating anticyclonic eddies. The eddies had diameters of 35–45 km at the surface and moved southward at about 20 cm/sec. A radial TOYO CTD (to 50m) and ADCP velocity (to 400m) transect was conducted across the southern-most of these eddies. The upper 50 meters had minimum temperatures of less than 7°C and salinities of about 33 pss, characteristics similar to cold pool waters usually found over the continental shelf. ADCP velocity data from one of the eddies revealed anticyclonic flow extending to a depth of about 250m. The transport of cold pool water by the eddies was estimated to be 0.1 to 0.2 Sv which is of the same order as the annual mean alongshore transport of shelf water in this region. The origin of the deeper water within the eddy is unlikely to be the continental shelf because the shelf break is less than 100 m. The depth and velocity profiles along the TOYO transect were consistent with the constant potential vorticity eddy model of Flierl (1979) although the source of the eddy kinetic energy is uncertain. The cause for the exodus of cold pool water from the shelf, which extended northward to at least 38°N, is unclear but must involve the establishment of an alongshore baroclinic pressure gradient against the usual southwestward shelf flow. It is possible that the intrusion of Gulf Stream waters onto the shelf near Cape Hatteras was a precursor of this off shelf transport. The southern-most eddy was marked by high biological productivity and very high oxygen supersaturation. The phytoplankton bloom detected within the exported cold pool water, located over the continental slope, suggests a mechanism whereby production fueled by nutrients derived from the shelf can be locally exported into deep water.     

Modelling Internal Solitary Waves in the Coastal Ocean

In the coastal oceans, the interaction of currents (such as the barotropic tide) with topography can generate large-amplitude, horizontally propagating internal solitary waves. These waves often occur in regions where the waveguide properties vary in the direction of propagation. We consider the modelling of these waves by nonlinear evolution equations of the Korteweg–de Vries type with variable coefficients, and we describe how these models are used to describe the shoaling of internal solitary waves over the continental shelf and slope. The theories are compared with various numerical simulations.     

Internal waves over the shelf in the western Bay of Bengal: a case study

Generation and propagation of internal waves (IWs) in the coastal waters of the extended shelf of the western Bay of Bengal are investigated for late winter by using the Massachusetts Institute of Technology General Circulation Model (MITgcm). The model is forced with astronomical tides and daily winds. Monthly climatological temperature and salinity fields are used as initial conditions. The simulations are compared with time series observations of temperature and currents from acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) moored at three locations south of Gopalpur: two at a local depth of 100 m and another at 400-m depth during 19–21 February 2012. The comparison of the spectral estimates for the time series of temperature from the model and observations are in reasonable agreement for the near-tidal frequency waves. The peak of temperature spectra is always found near the shelf break region which steadily lost its intensity over the continental shelf. The calculation of Richardson number reflected the presence of local mixing due to density overturning in the shelf region. To understand further the generation and propagation of internal tides in the region, energy flux and conversion of barotropic-to-baroclinic M₂ tidal energy are examined. The model simulations suggest that the internal tide is generated all along the shelf slope. The energy flux analysis shows that the internal tides propagate to either side of the generation sites.     

Onset of the Iberian upwelling along the Galician coast

Through a set of observations including satellite, cruise and mooring data during May-July 1997 the transition between the downwelling and upwelling regimes off Galicia has been characterized. The poleward flow, typical of downwelling, was associated with a series of mesoscale eddies and interacted with coastal freshwater inputs. The poleward flow along the continental slope was separated into an offshore branch and a nearshore branch by a well-defined equatorward flow and both associated with a prominent salinity maximum. With the onset of upwelling-favorable winds, equatorward flow was established over the entire shelf. At the same time, a buoyant, warm surface layer spread out over the shelf from the Rías as water previously forced in by southerly winds was flushed out by the upwelling winds. The completed transition to summertime coastal upwelling took place after the cruise but was evident in satellite images. A conceptual model is used to demonstrate that the coastal orientation with respect to the upwelling winds enhances offshore flow outside the Rías and displaces the poleward flow offshore after several days of upwelling.     

Wind-forced continental shelf waves from a geographical origin

The response of a barotropic coastal ocean on a step-shaped continental shelf to a traveling sinusoidal wind stress forcing is predicted theoretically using a frictional force proportional to the alongshore current velocity. This theory is compared to a small set of observations from the northeast coast of Australia where a sudden widening of the continental shelf provides a geographical origin. The comparison is accomplished by means of frequency response functions relating alongshore wind stress with alongshore velocity. Amplitudes of the response functions are predicted to increase with alongshore distance equatorward and also to decrease with frequency at any location. These predictions are verified by the measurements. Predicted phase lags are generally less than about 30°, with observations agreeing with theory to within about 20°C. In general, the measurements provide reasonable evidence to support the theory of wind-forced continental shelf waves from a geographical origin.     

Generation of baroclinic topographic waves by a tropical cyclone impacting a low-latitude continental shelf

Numerical model experiments have been performed to analyze the low-latitude baroclinic continental shelf response to a tropical cyclone. The theory of coastally trapped waves suggests that, provided appropriate slope, latitude, stratification and wind stress, bottom-intensified topographic Rossby waves can be generated by the storm. Based on a scale analysis, the Nicaragua Shelf is chosen to study propagating topographic waves excited by a storm, and a model domain is configured with simplified but similar geometry. The model is forced with wind stress representative of a hurricane translating slowly over the region at 6 km h⁻¹. Scale analysis leads to the assumption that baroclinic Kelvin wave modes have minimal effect on the low-frequency wave motions along the slope, and coastal-trapped waves are restricted to topographic Rossby waves. Analysis of the simulated motions suggests that the shallow part of the continental slope is under the influence of barotropic topographic wave motions and at the deeper part of the slope baroclinic topographic Rossby waves dominate the low-frequency motions. Numerical solutions are in a good agreement with theoretical scale analysis. Characteristics of the simulated baroclinic waves are calculated based on linear theory of bottom-intensified topographic Rossby waves. Simulated waves have periods ranging from 153 to 203 h. The length scale of the waves is from 59 to 87 km. Analysis of energy fluxes for a fixed volume on the slope reveals predominantly along-isobath energy propagation in the direction of the group velocity of a topographic Rossby wave. Another model experiment forced with a faster translating hurricane demonstrates that fast moving tropical cyclones do not excite energetic baroclinic topographic Rossby waves. Instead, robust inertial oscillations are identified over the slope.     

Along-shelf evolution and sea levels across the continental slope

If wind-stress or a horizontal oceanic density gradient acts over an ocean basin with an adjacent continental shelf and slope, sea-surface slopes and currents are set up along the shelf and slope with a return flow in the ocean. The currents evolve from zero at blocked ends of the shelf and basin. Such evolution is essentially barotropic (even for baroclinic forcing) and is relevant to all flow adjustments after longshore changes of depth profile or forcing. The distance over which this evolution takes place is investigated analytically for simple geometries, and numerically for a range of shelf, slope and ocean widths, shelf/ocean depth ratios, frictional decay rates and oscillatory frequencies. A close correspondence is found with the decay distance (group velocity x decay time) for a lowest mode continental shelf wave, often exceeding 1000 km. This correspondence is used to interpret some published model calculations of shelf and slope currents or return flows resulting from wind-stress or alongshore pressure gradients.Where a slope current is evolving, coastal sea levels do not follow oceanic levels. Implications for coastal/oceanic level differences are discussed. Oceanic sea-level features of shorter scale than the above 1000 km (say) do not penetrate fully to the coast. However, coastal sea levels averaged around small islands without broad shelves well represent surrounding oceanic levels.     

Inclined internal tide waves at a narrow Mexican Pacific shelf

The dynamics of a semidiurnal internal tidal wave at a narrow Mexican Pacific shelf is discussed using the data of temperature obtained by an anchored instrument and data of field surveys. The internal tide on the shelf is dominated by an inclined wave, which propagates upward and onshore along a continental slope. Despite its reflection from the bottom and from the surface of the ocean, they remain inclined and totally destroyed over the course of one wavelength. Due to wave reflection from the inclined bottom, the horizontal and vertical wave number increase threefold when the wave goes into shallow waters. The wave undergoes nonlinear transformation and overturns forming several homogeneous temperature layers up to 20 m thick. The most intense disturbances of water layers are observed near the bottom, where the slope angle approaches its critical value. Because of nonlinear effects, the wave carries cool deep water out to the shallow depth and causes coastal upwelling. Intense solar warming together with vertical mixing results in a rapid rise of temperature in the 130-m water column that was observed.     

Sediment dynamics in the Black Sea: numerical modelling and remote sensing observations

Here, we address the sediment dynamics in the Black Sea based on analysis of remote sensing data from the Medium Resolution Imaging Spectrometer and numerical simulations with Nucleus for European Modelling of the Ocean model. Boundary conditions consist of realistic meteorological forcing, including significant wave height generated by wave prediction model. A number of sensitivity runs was analysed with the aim to find the most suitable parameters governing sediment fluxes. The comparison between numerical simulations and remote sensing data gives credibility to the quality of simulations. The combined effect of wind waves and currents in the bed layer controls the sediment resuspension that appears to be the major basin-wide source of sediment. Sensitivity experiments included or excluded different forcing terms, e.g. sediment flux from rivers enable to determine the spatial extensions of different point sources. It is concluded that wind-wave forcing is manifested in the sediment dynamics through episodic high energy events contributing to the increase of horizontal sediment fluxes over the northwestern shelf. Both satellite images and numerical model simulations demonstrated that the penetration of suspended sediment into the basin interior was governed by the dynamics of coastal and open-ocean eddies. While fine sediment at sea surface could cross the continental slope propagating into the open ocean, coarser fractions follow the bottom and their penetration into the open ocean is limited. The conclusion is thus that the deposition patterns correlate with the specific shape of Black Sea topography, and the largest depositions are observed in the area of continental slope.     

The influence of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) cycles on wave-driven sea-floor sediment mobility along the central California continental margin

Ocean surface waves are the dominant temporally and spatially variable process influencing sea floor sediment resuspension along most continental shelves. Wave-induced sediment mobility on the continental shelf and upper continental slope off central California for different phases of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events was modeled using monthly statistics derived from more than 14 years of concurrent hourly oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN wave model, gridded sea floor grain-size data from the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences as small as 0.5 m in wave height, 1 s in wave period, and 10° in wave direction, in conjunction with the spatially heterogeneous unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in significant changes in the predicted mobility of continental shelf surficial sediment in the study area. El Niño events result in more frequent mobilization on the inner shelf in the summer and winter than during La Niña events and on the outer shelf and upper slope in the winter months, while La Niña events result in more frequent mobilization on the mid-shelf during spring and summer months than during El Niño events. The timing and patterns of seabed mobility are addressed in context of geologic and biologic processes. By understanding the spatial and temporal variability in the disturbance of the sea floor, scientists can better interpret sedimentary patterns and ecosystem structure, while providing managers and planners an understanding of natural impacts when considering the permitting of offshore activities that disturb the sea floor such as trawling, dredging, and the emplacement of sea-floor engineering structures.