Some regularities in the dynamics of the periods of sea wind waves

An empirical equation on a change in the periods of wind waves at the point of recording, which makes it possible to calculate the period of wind waves in any direction on a time scale, is derived based on the experimental data.     

混合浪中长波对短波的位相调制

为研究长波对短波尤其是风浪高频成分的调制,在实验室风浪水槽中产生混合浪,分析风浪受规则长波的调制。采用本征模态方法分解出不同尺度的风浪模态,计算各模态位移平方关于长波位相的平均。结果表明,风浪主要波、小尺度波和介于二者之间的中等尺度波,其能量沿长波位相的分布具有不同特征:风浪主要波的能量随长波波陡增加而减少,其分布与长波同相且关于长波波谷对称;中等尺度波的能量则随长波波陡增加而增加,在长波波峰迎风面略高于背风面;小尺度风浪的能量随着风速和长波波陡的增加而增加,随着风区长度的增加而减少,在长波波峰迎风面明显高于背风面。     

Energy cycle of wind generated surface waves

Doklady Earth Sciences -     

Effect of translate speed of typhoon on wind waves

Natural Hazards - Quantitative assessments on the effect of translate speed of typhoons on wind waves were carried out. A WRF-SWAN coupled model that used observed meteorological data was applied...     

风浪对湖泊浮游生物影响的研究进展

风浪在自然水体中广泛存在,是浮游生物生存环境的本质特征。在湖泊（特别是浅水湖泊）中,风浪过程广泛影响着水体的物理、化学特性,并直接和间接对浮游生物产生重要影响。综述了风浪对湖泊浮游动物、浮游植物和浮游细菌影响的相关研究。风浪对浮游生物的时空分布及其在塑造浮游生物系统的结构和功能中发挥了至关重要的作用:风浪条件在浮游生物的行为、营养盐吸收速率和通量、捕食及其生长、竞争和演替等方面均具有广泛且重要的影响,并显著影响着水体食物网的结构和功能,最终对湖泊生态系统的结构和功能产生潜在的影响。提出了未来研究的主要方向为进一步揭示全球气候变化条件下风浪在湖泊中的生态环境效应,为富营养湖泊的治理和管理提供新的认识和决策支持。     

Alternative data-driven methods to estimate wind from waves by inverse modeling

An attempt is made to derive wind speed from wave measurements by carrying out an inverse modeling. This requirement arises out of difficulties occasionally encountered in collecting wave and wind data simultaneously. The wind speed at every 3-h interval is worked out from corresponding simultaneous measurements of significant wave height and average wave periods with the help of alternative data-driven methods such as program-based genetic programming, model trees, and locally weighted projection regression. Five different wave buoy locations in Arabian Sea, representing nearshore and offshore as well as shallow and deep water conditions, are considered. The duration of observations ranged from 15 months to 29 months for different sites. The testing performance of calibrated models has been evaluated with the help of eight alternative error statistics, and the best model for all locations is determined by averaging out the error measures into a single evaluation index. All the three methods satisfactorily estimated the wind speed from known wave parameters through inverse modeling. The genetic programming is found to be the most suitable tool in majority of the cases.     

大风浪影响下海域泥沙输运异变数值模拟

基于实测的水深、潮流、悬浮体、底质数据及历史气象资料等,采用导入SWAN波浪参数的ECOMSED三维模型,模拟大风浪对小清河口附近海域悬浮体浓度和底床冲淤变化的影响程度。并利用全潮水文观测资料对水动力和输沙率模拟结果进行检验,对比分析表明计算值与实测值吻合良好。模拟结果表明,大风浪影响下近岸海域泥沙输运变化较大,悬浮体浓度可达一般天气的10倍左右,而底床冲淤变化可达平时的百余倍。大风浪期间剧烈的底床冲淤变化对河口拦门沙演化影响较大。     

Computer model of wind, waves, and longshore currents during a coastal storm

A mathematical model has been developed to forecast or hindcast wind, waves, and longshore currents during the passage of a coastal storm. Storm intensity is a function of the barometric pressure gradient which is modeled by rotating an inverted normal curve around the center of an ellipse. The length and orientation of the major and minor axes of the ellipse control the size and shape of the storm. The path of the storm is determined by a sequence of storm positions for the hindcast mode, and by interpolated positions assuming constant speed and direction for the forecast mode. The site location, shoreline orientation, and nearshore bottom slope provide input data for the shore position. The geostrophic wind speed and direction at the shore site are computed from the latitude and barometric pressure gradient. The geostrophic wind is converted into surface wind speed and direction by applying corrections for frictional effects over land and sea. The surface wind speed and direction, effective fetch, and wind duration are used to compute wave period, breaker height, and breaker angle at the shore site. The longshore current velocity is computed as a function of wave period, breaker height and angle, and nearshore slope. The model was tested by comparing observed data for several coastal locations with predicted values for wind speed, wave period and height, and longshore current velocity. Forecasts were made for actual storms and for hypothetical circular and elliptical storms.     

Comparison of AMSR-2 wind speed and sea surface temperature with moored buoy observations over the Northern Indian Ocean

The Northern Indian Ocean (NIO) is unique due to seasonal reversal of wind patterns, the formation of vortices and eddies which make satellite observations arduous. The veracity of sea surface wind (SSW) and sea surface temperature (SST) products of sun-synchronous AMSR-2 satellite are compared with high-temporal moored buoy observations over the NIO. The two year-long (2013–2014) comparisons reveal that the root-mean-square-error (RMSE) of AMSR-2 SST and SSW is \(<0.4{^{\circ }}\hbox {C}\) and \(<1.5\hbox { ms}^{-1}\), respectively, which are within the error range prescribed for the AMSR-2 satellite (\(\pm 0.8{^{\circ }}\hbox {C}\), \(\pm 1.5\hbox { ms}^{-1})\). The SST–wind relation is analyzed using data both from the buoy and satellite. As a result, the low-SST is associated with low-wind condition (positive slope) in the northern part of the Bay of Bengal (BoB), while low SST values are associated with high wind conditions (negative slope) over the southern BoB. Moreover, the AMSR-2 displayed larger slope for SST–wind relation and could be mainly due to overestimation of SST and underestimation of wind as compared to the buoy. The AMSR-2 SSW exhibited higher error during post-monsoon followed by monsoon season and could be attributed to the high wind conditions associated with intense oceanic vortices. The study suggests that the AMSR-2 products are reliable and can be used in tropical air–sea interactions, meso-scale features, and weather and climate studies.     

Joint return probability analysis of wind speed and rainfall intensity in typhoon-affected sea area

Strong wind and rainfall induced by extreme meteorological processes such as typhoons have a serious impact on the safety of bridges and offshore engineering structures. A new bivariate compound extreme value distribution is proposed to describe the probability dependency structure of annual extreme wind speed and concomitant process maximum rainfall intensity in typhoon-affected area. This probability model takes full account of the case that there may be no rainfall in a typhoon process. A case study based on the observation data of typhoon maximum wind speed and maximum rainfall intensity in Shanghai is conducted to testify the efficiency of the model. Weibull distributions with two parameters are applied to fit respective probability margins, and the joint probability distribution is constructed by Gumbel–Hougaard copula. The fitting results and K–S tests show that these models describe the original data well. The joint return periods are calculated by Poisson bivariate compound extreme value distribution we have proposed. They indicate that typhoons with no rain have smaller joint return periods, and wind speed is the main factor which impacts the change of the joint return periods.     

Physical model tests to determine the mechanism of submarine landslides under the effect of sea waves

Submarine landslides are a common type of disaster which threaten property and the safety of human life. To effectively prevent and control such disasters, we conduct a series of large-scale physical model tests to determine the mechanism of submarine landslides. First, a large-scale physical model test system is designed and developed, including flume test frame, wave-making system, wave-absorbing system, and data monitoring system. In the tests, we investigate the effect of different sea waves by changing the parameters of the wave-making system and the influence of the slope inclination by constructing different models. Data regarding the wave pressure acting on the slope surface, seepage pressure, and displacement are monitored during the test procedure. The test results show that the seepage pressure in the faults varies cyclically with the sea waves and is lower at internal points than at outcrops. If the wave loading time is sufficiently long, the seepage pressure and displacement deformation in the fault zone will gradually increase. In other words, failures in fault zones precede submarine landslides. The weak fault zone provides the preferred sliding surface, and the sea waves supply the external dynamic energy for submarine landslides. The conclusions provide guidelines for similar engineering and research.

     

滑移流对浅水湖泊风浪传播特性影响试验研究

浅水湖泊等有限风吹程及水深水域的风浪多处于发展阶段，风拖曳表层水体产生的滑移流会对风浪传播特性产生影响，风浪的波速、波长等参数难以通过线性波的理论频散关系获取。为准确预测湖泊风浪参数，在考虑浅水湖泊的有限吹程和水深特征的基础上，利用风洞水槽模拟研究了滑移流对风浪传播特性的影响。结果表明:滑移流、斯托克斯流及表面流均与风速正相关，滑移流与表面流比值随着风速的增加逐渐降低并稳定于75%；滑移流对波速和波长有促进作用，对小尺度波浪的促进作用尤其显著；波浪非线性会抑制滑移流对波速及波长的促进作用；建立了考虑滑移流影响的风浪经验频散关系式以及风浪主频波速经验关系式。     

滑移流对浅水湖泊风浪传播特性影响试验研究

浅水湖泊等有限风吹程及水深水域的风浪多处于发展阶段，风拖曳表层水体产生的滑移流会对风浪传播特性产生影响，风浪的波速、波长等参数难以通过线性波的理论频散关系获取。为准确预测湖泊风浪参数，在考虑浅水湖泊的有限吹程和水深特征的基础上，利用风洞水槽模拟研究了滑移流对风浪传播特性的影响。结果表明：滑移流、斯托克斯流及表面流均与风速正相关，滑移流与表面流比值随着风速的增加逐渐降低并稳定于75%；滑移流对波速和波长有促进作用，对小尺度波浪的促进作用尤其显著；波浪非线性会抑制滑移流对波速及波长的促进作用；建立了考虑滑移流影响的风浪经验频散关系式以及风浪主频波速经验关系式。     

Estimation of parameters of the flows forming sediment waves on the western slope of the middle caspian sea

By means of mathematical modeling, the parameters of flows forming sedimentary waves on the western slope of the Derbent basin were estimated. The height of these flows depends on the slope steepness and varies from 25 to 170 m to reach its maximum values at gentler slope areas. However, the flow rate is independent of the slope steepness and depends only on the concentration of sediment matter supplied by the flow. At the upper part of the slope (the flow starting), the rate amounts to 0.4–1.4 m/s, being almost halved at the depths where the sedimentary waves are damped. The present rates of near-bottom currents show pronounced seasonal differences, and their values are close to flow rates obtained by numerical modeling.     

Impact of wind gusts on sea surface height in storm surge modelling, application to the North Sea

Storm surge models usually do not take into account the explicit effect of wind gusts on the sea surface height. However, as the wind speed enters quadratically into the shallow water equations, short-term fluctuations around the mean value do not average out. We investigate the impact of explicitly added gustiness on storm surge forecasts in the North Sea, using the WAQUA/DCSM model. The sensitivity of the model results to gustiness is tested with Monte Carlo simulations, and these are used to derive a parametrisation of the effect of gustiness on characteristics of storm surges. With the parametrisation and input from the ECMWF model archive, we run hindcasts for a few individual cases and also the 2007–2008 winter storm season. Although the explicit inclusion of gustiness increases the surge levels, it does not help to explain, and hence reduce, the errors in the model results. Moreover, the errors made by ignoring gustiness are small compared to other errors. We conclude that, at present, there is no need to include gustiness explicitly in storm surge calculations for the North Sea.