Wind tunnel tests of the dynamic processes that control wind erosion of a sand bed

Aeolian sand transport is a complicated process that is affected by many factors (e.g. wind velocity, sand particle size, surface microtopography). Under different experimental conditions, erosion processes will therefore produce different results. In this study, we conducted a series of wind tunnel experiments across a range of wind velocities capable of entraining sand particles (8.0, 10.0, 12.0, and 14.0 m s^-1) to study the dynamic changes of the shear velocity, aerodynamic roughness length, and sand transport. We found that the shear velocity and aerodynamic roughness length are not constant; rather, they change dynamically over time, and the rules that describe their changes depend on the free-stream air velocity. For wind tunnel experiments without feeding sand into the airflow, the sand bed elevation decreases with increasing erosion time, and this change significantly affected the values of shear velocity and aerodynamic roughness length. A Gaussian distribution function described the relationships between the sand transport rate (q_T) and the duration of wind erosion (T). It is therefore necessary for modelers to consider both deflation of the bed and the time scale used when calculating sand transport or erosion rates. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

2DV modelling of sediment transport processes over full-scale ripples in regular asymmetric oscillatory flow

Wave-induced, steep vortex ripples are ubiquitous features in shallow coastal seas and it is therefore important to fully understand and model the sediment transport processes that occur over them. To this end, two two-dimensional vertical (2DV) models have been critically tested against detailed velocity and sediment concentration measurements above mobile ripples in regular asymmetric oscillatory flow. The two models are a k–ω turbulence-closure model and a discrete-vortex, particle-tracking (DVPT) model, while the data are obtained in the Aberdeen oscillatory flow tunnel (AOFT). The models and the data demonstrate that the time-dependent velocity and suspended sediment concentration above the ripple are dominated by the generation of lee-side vortices and their subsequent ejection at flow reversal. The DVPT model predicts the positions and strengths of the vortices reasonably well, but tends to overpredict the velocity close to the ripple surface. The k–ω model, on the other hand, underpredicts the height to which the vortices are lifted, but is better able to predict the velocity close to the bed. In terms of the cycle- and ripple-averaged horizontal velocity, both models are able to reproduce the observed offshore flow close to and below the ripple crest and the DVPT model is able to produce the onshore flow higher up. In the vicinity of the vortices, the DVPT model better represents the concentration (because of its better prediction of vorticity). The k–ω model, on the other hand, better represents the concentration close to the ripple surface and higher up in the flow (because of the better representation of the near-bed flow and background turbulence). The measured and predicted cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment concentrations are in reasonable agreement and demonstrate the expected region of exponential decay. The models are able to reproduce the observed offshore cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment flux from the ripple troughs upwards, and as a result, produce net offshore suspended sediment transport rates that are in reasonable agreement. The net measured offshore suspended transport rate, based on the integration of fluxes, was found to be consistent with the total net offshore transport measured in the tunnel as a whole once the onshore transport resulting from ripple migration was taken into account, as would be expected. This demonstrates the importance of models being able to predict ripple-migration rates. However, at present neither of the models is able to do so.     

3-D Non-linear Travel-time Tomography: Imaging High Contrast Velocity Anomalies

In this paper we present an approach for 3-D travel-time tomography, which works well in reconstructing high contrast velocity anomalies in both location and strength. It uses a revised ‘irregular’ approach to the shortest-path method as the ray tracer and a damped minimum norm, and constrained least-squares CG approach as the inversion solver. In ray tracing, the advantages of the revised ‘irregular’ over the ‘regular’ approach are that the secondary nodes introduced on the cell surfaces significantly improve accuracy of computed travel times, without dramatically increasing the total number of cells and nodes; the tri-linear velocity function defined across the cell guarantees accurate ray tracing in a high velocity contrast medium; and the capacity to calculate a relatively large 3-D model, due to the fast run speed (at least one order of magnitude over the ‘regular’ approach) and less number of total nodes. The introduction of ‘soft’ and ‘hard’ bounds into the inversion process changes the conditioning and makes the solution meaningful in a physical sense. Thus the artifacts caused by noise and high velocity contrasts are substantially suppressed and the image quality is considerably improved, making the solution realistic with noisy or inconsistent travel-time data. Several numerical tests indicate that we can obtain good quality images even for high velocity contrast anomalies (say more than 20%) in the target region. This means the inversion algorithm is an efficient and effective procedure. Meanwhile, the inversion procedure is not very sensitive to the quality of the travel-time data, which is promising for practical usage.     

Modelling estuarine and coastal flows using an unstructured triangular finite volume algorithm

Details are given of the development and application of a numerical model for predicting free-surface flows in estuarine and coastal basins using the finite volume method. Both second- and third-order accurate and oscillation free explicit numerical schemes have been used to solve the shallow water equations. The model deploys an unstructured triangular mesh and incorporates two types of mesh layouts, namely the ‘cell centred’ and ‘mesh vertex’ layouts, and provides a powerful mesh generator in which a user can adjust the mesh-size distribution interactively to create a desirable mesh. The quality of mesh has been shown to have a major impact on the overall performance of the numerical model.The model has been applied to simulate two-dimensional dam break flows for which transient water level distributions measured within a laboratory flume were available. In total 12 model runs were undertaken to test the model for various flow conditions. These conditions include: (1) different bed slopes (ranging from zero to 0.8%), (2) different upstream and downstream water level conditions, and (3) initially wet and dry bed conditions, downstream of the dam. Detailed comparisons have been made between model predicted and measured water levels and good agreement achieved between both sets of results. The model was then used to predict water level and velocity distributions in a real estuary, i.e. the Ribble Estuary, where the bed level varies rapidly at certain locations. In order to model the whole estuary, a 1-D numerical model has also been used to model the upper part of the estuary and this model was linked dynamically to the 2-D model. Findings from this application are given in detail.     

Particle accumulation in a cylindrical sediment trap under laminar and turbulent steady flow: An experimental approach

The hydrodynamical, fluid and particle parameters which control flushing rates, flow cells, and accumulation rates of particulate matter in cylindrical (MultiPIT) sediment traps were quantified in a flume simulation using a seeding technique for 25–45 µm particles. Particle collection was found to be a trap- and particle-specific filtering process encompassing advective and gravitational entry of particles over a reduced trap aperture area, and gravitational-turbulent removal of particles at the bottom of the internal flow cell. Trapping efficiency increased up to 10-fold with increasing horizontal flow velocity (1–30 cm · s^–1). For given flow velocity, the trap over-and undercollected particles relative to their weight, i.e. (theoretical) Stokes settling velocity. The trapping efficiency increased with increasing trap Reynolds number Re_T, changed by the approaching velocity in our experiments. Opposite findings from earlier experiments using the flume seeding technique and changing Re_T by altering the trap diameter (Butman, 1986) are discussed. Semi-empirical equations are derived for the accumulation process of light, heavy and intermediate particles. From these, measured trap fluxes can be converted into in-situ verticle particle flux except for light particles.     

Daytime F2-layer positive storm effect at middle and lower latitudes

Daytime F2-layer positive storm effects at middle and lower latitudes in the winter thermosphere are analyzed using AE-C, ESRO-4 neutral gas composition data, ground-based ionosonde observations and model calculations. Different longitudinal sectors marked by the storm onset as ‘night-time’ and ‘daytime’ demonstrate different F2-layer positive storm mechanisms. Neutral composition changes in the ‘night-time’ sector with increased [O] and [N₂] absolute concentrations, while (N₂/O)_storm/(N₂/O)_quiet\approx1 at F2-layer heights, are shown to contribute largely to the background N_mF2 increase at lower latitudes lasting during daytime hours. Storm-induced surges of the equatorward wind give rise to an additional N_mF2 increase above this background level. The mid-latitude F2-layer positive storm effect in the ‘daytime’ sector is due to the vertical plasma drift increase, resulting from the interaction of background (poleward) and storm-induced (equatorward) thermospheric winds, but not to changes of [O] and [N₂] concentrations.     

Sediment transport in high‐speed flows over a fixed bed: 2. Particle impacts and abrasion prediction

Single bed load particle impacts were experimentally investigated in supercritical open channel flow over a fixed planar bed of low relative roughness height simulating high‐gradient non‐alluvial mountain streams as well as hydraulic structures. Particle impact characteristics (impact velocity, impact angle, Stokes number, restitution and dynamic friction coefficients) were determined for a wide range of hydraulic parameters and particle properties. Particle impact velocity scaled with the particle velocity, and the vertical particle impact velocity increased with excess transport stage. Particle impact and rebound angles were low and decreased with transport stage. Analysis of the particle impacts with the bed revealed almost no viscous damping effects with high normal restitution coefficients exceeding unity. The normal and resultant Stokes numbers were high and above critical thresholds for viscous damping. These results are attributed to the coherent turbulent structures near the wall region, i.e. bursting motion with ejection and sweep events responsible for turbulence generation and particle transport. The tangential restitution coefficients were slightly below unity and the dynamic friction coefficients were lower than for alluvial bed data, revealing that only a small amount of horizontal energy was transferred to the bed. The abrasion prediction model formed by Sklar and Dietrich in 2004 was revised based on the new equations on vertical impact velocity and hop length covering various bed configurations. The abrasion coefficient k_v was found to be vary around k_v ~ 10⁵ for hard materials (tensile strength f_t > 1 MPa), one order of magnitude lower than the value assumed so far for Sklar and Dietrich's model. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Clearance rates of Cerastoderma edule under increasing current velocity

Estimates of clearance rates (CR) of Cerastoderma edule (300 ind. m⁻²) as a function of free-stream current velocity (U) (from 5 to 40 cm s⁻¹) were compared between a small annular (60 l) and a large racetrack (8850 l) flume with different hydrodynamic conditions. Results showed that the flumes differ considerably in their hydrodynamic characteristics. The relationship between CR and U is different in the two flume tanks, however there appears to be a straightforward unimodal trend between CR and shear velocity (U_*). It was found that the cockles themselves influence the benthic boundary layer (BBL) characteristics, by causing steeper velocity gradients and increasing the mixing over the cockle bed compared to bare sediment. This provides new evidence on how endobenthic organisms can affect the BBL. However, the influence of CR on U_* could not be quantified because these parameters have interactive effects that cannot be dissociated.     

INITIATION OF SHELL MOTION ON SAND BEDS: AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY

1 INTRODUCTION Bivalve shells are found in biologically productive coastal regions encompassing the surf zone, tidal entrance and estuarine waters near the entrances. An example of a beach composed exclusively of shells (about 97% of the surficial sedimentary material) is the beach at John o'Groats in Scotland (Raymond and Hutchins, 1932; Komar, 1976). Southern Gulf Coast of Florida in USA (Runsak et al., 1966; Austin, 1971) and the banks of Lower Medway estuary in England (Kirby,…     

Magnetosheath Interaction with the High Latitude Magnetopause

We present both statistical and case studies of magnetosheath interaction with the high-latitude magnetopause on the basis of Interball-1 and other ISTP spacecraft data. We discuss those data along with recently published results on the topology of cusp-magnetosheath transition and the roles of nonlinear disturbances in mass and energy transfer across the high-latitude magnetopause. For sunward dipole tilts, a cusp throat is magnetically open for direct interaction with the incident flow that results in the creation of a turbulent boundary layer (TBL) over an indented magnetopause and downstream of the cusp. For antisunward tilts, the cusp throat is closed by a smooth magnetopause; demagnetized ‘plasma balls’ (with scale ∼ few R_E, an occurrence rate of ∼25% and trapped energetic particles) present a major magnetosheath plasma channel just inside the cusp. The flow interacts with the ‘plasma balls’ via reflected waves, which trigger a chaotization of up to 40% of the upstream kinetic energy. These waves propagate upstream of the TBL and initiate amplification of the existing magnetosheath waves and their cascade-like decays during downstream passage throughout the TBL. The most striking feature of the nonlinear interaction is the appearance of magnetosonic jets, accelerated up to an Alfvenic Mach number of 3. The characteristic impulsive local momentum loss is followed by decelerated Alfvenic flows and modulated by the TBL waves; momentum balance is conserved only on time scales of the Alfvenic flows (1/f_A ∼12 min). Wave trains at f_A∼1.3 mHz are capable of synchronizing interactions throughout the outer and inner boundary layers. The sonic/Alfvenic flows, bounded by current sheets, control the TBL spectral shape and result in non-Gaussian statistical characteristics of the disturbances, indicating the fluctuation intermittency. We suggest that the multi-scale TBL processes play at least a comparable role to that of macro-reconnection (remote from or in the cusp) in solar wind energy transformation and population of the magnetosphere by the magnetosheath plasma. Secondary micro-reconnection constitutes a necessary chain at the small-scale (∼ion gyroradius) edge of the TBL cascades. The thick TBL transforms the flow energy, including deceleration and heating of the flow in the open throat, ‘plasma ball’ and the region downstream of the cusp.     

Comparison of methods for predicting discharge in compound open channels

The relative accuracies of four conventional stage-discharge prediction methods, for flow in compound channels, were compared in a laboratory study. Discharge measurements in a physical model comprising a deep central channel flanked by wide shallow berms (flood plains), as well as similar observations by others, provided the basis for comparison.System discharge was either undertestimated (‘single-channel’ method) or overestimated (various ‘separate channels’ methods) when depth on the flood plain zones was small, i.e. when the velocity differential between the deep and shallow zones was large. These discrepancies can be attributed to questionable assumptions made in the different methods tested regarding the nature of flow in compound channels.A new method is proposed which accounts for momentum transfer between adjacent deep and shallow zones of compound sections. This transfer mechanism and its effect on system conveyance are usually ignored in conventional methods. The new method gives satisfactory results for the conditions examined. Its accuracy can be further improved with the development of more accurate friction factor relationships for compound channels.     

Hydrodynamic behaviour of coarse bioclastic sand from shelly cheniers

Cheniers from Mont‐Saint‐Michel bay (France) are coarse shelly sand ridges migrating on the mudflat up to the salt marshes where they accumulate and merge in a littoral barrier. In this macrotidal setting and low wave forcing, the cheniers are rarely submerged. However, they are found to move up to several metres during coincidence of spring tide and wave activity. Their processes of migration, morphology and internal structure (composition of the beddings, grain size, sorting and grain arrangement) are thought to be closely related to the hydrodynamic behaviour of the coarse and shelly sediment. This paper focuses on the hydrodynamic behaviour of bioclastic sand sampled from the cheniers: settling velocities of the shell fragments were measured using a 2 m long sedimentation tube. Thresholds of motion under unidirectional current, velocity and turbulence vertical profiles were characterized in a small recirculating flume using Laser Doppler Anemometry (LDA). The flat‐shaped bioclastic particles feature low settling velocities and reveal a good resistance to the re‐suspension effect of the flow when imbricated in a sediment bed. The shear stress in the bottom boundary layer has been measured in the viscous and log sub‐layers. Nikuradse roughness heights (k_s) for shell debris beds of different sizes have been quantified. It is found that k_s ≈ 2·56d₅₀. This value is close to the ones used for classic rounded sand grains despite their major differences of shape. The dual behaviour of the shell fragments (low settling velocity, good resistance to unidirectional flow) should be considered as a key to understanding how this coarse material is transported across the tidal flat, and finally accumulated as cheniers. Further flume experiments including wave activity and tidal fluctuations are necessary to better quantify these complex processes. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical Study on Vortices in the Middle Layer of Flow around a Large Mountain under Rotating Stratified Conditions

Generation of cyclonic vortices in the middle layer of flow around a large mountain like Tibet and Rocky was investigated by means of a 3-D nonhydrostatic meteorological prognostic model. Special attention was paid to the effects of the earth’s rotation and stratification on the vortices detached successively from the slope of a high and large horizontal scale mountain. It was found the successive formation and detachment of such ‘von Karman-like vortices’ occurred in the flow regime at high Rossby numbers Ro and low Froude numbers Fr. It was successfully divided by the criterion of baroclinic instability. This means that if the condition is unstable baroclinically, a lee vortex is destabilized into a three-dimensional one, while under baroclinically stable conditions the lee vortex with vertical axis retains its standing structure and remains long lasting in the middle layer.     

A theoretical investigation of bed-form shapes

The deformation of movable boundaries under the action of an applied turbulent shear stress is well known. The resulting bed forms often are highly organized and nearly two-dimensional, which makes them an intriguing focus of study considering that they are generated in both steady and oscillatory turbulent flows. Many past studies share a common approach in which an infinitesimal perturbation is prescribed and the resulting growth or decay patterns are examined. In this approach, the bed forms are usually sinusoidal and the perturbation analysis does not provide a theoretical prediction of equilibrium bed-form geometry. An alternative approach is suggested here in which the forcing terms (pressure and stress) are prescribed parametrically and the governing equations are solved for the flow velocity and the associated boundary deformation. Using a multilayered approach, in which the bottom boundary layer is divided into a discrete, yet, arbitrary number of finite layers, analytical solutions for the horizontal current and bed profile are derived. The derivations identify two nondimensional parameters, p₀/u₀² and ₀/kh₀u₀², which modulate the amplitude of the velocity fluctuations and boundary deformation. For the case of combined pressure and stress divergence anomalies, the magnitude of the front face and lee slopes exhibit an asymmetry that is consistent with observed bed forms in steady two-dimensional flows.Responsible Editor: Jens Kappenberg     

Fuzzy neural network models for liquefaction prediction

Integrated fuzzy neural network models are developed for the assessment of liquefaction potential of a site. The models are trained with large databases of liquefaction case histories. A two-stage training algorithm is used to develop a fuzzy neural network model. In the preliminary training stage, the training case histories are used to determine initial network parameters. In the final training stage, the training case histories are processed one by one to develop membership functions for the network parameters. During the testing phase, input variables are described in linguistic terms such as ‘high’ and ‘low’. The prediction is made in terms of a liquefaction index representing the degree of liquefaction described in fuzzy terms such as ‘highly likely’, ‘likely’, or ‘unlikely’. The results from the model are compared with actual field observations and misclassified cases are identified. The models are found to have good predictive ability and are expected to be very useful for a preliminary evaluation of liquefaction potential of a site for which the input parameters are not well defined.     

Nonlinear soil response as a natural passive isolation mechanism-the 1994 Northridge, California, earthquake

The spatial relationship between areas with severely damaged (red-tagged) buildings and areas with large strains in the soil (indicated by reported breaks in the water distribution system), observed during the 1994 Northridge earthquake, is analysed. It is shown that these areas can be separated almost everywhere. Minimal overlapping is observed only in the regions with very large amplitudes of shaking (peak ground velocity exceeding about 150 cm s⁻¹). One explanation for this remarkable separation is that the buildings on ‘soft’ soils, which experienced nonlinear strain levels, were damaged to a lesser degree, possibly because the soil absorbed a significant portion of the incident seismic wave energy. As a result, the total number of severely damaged (red-tagged) buildings in San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles and Santa Monica may have been reduced by a factor of two or more. This interpretation is consistent with the recorded peak accelerations of strong motion in the same area. It is concluded that significant reduction in the potential damage to wood frame single family dwellings may be expected in areas where the soil experiences ‘large’ strains (beyond the linear range) during strong earthquake shaking, but not significant differential motions, settlement or lateral spreading, near the surface.     

Effect of upwelling on phytoplankton productivity of the outer southeastern United States continental shelf

Gulf Stream frontal disturbances cause nutrient-rich waters to frequently upwell and intrude onto the southeastern United States continental shelf between Cape Canaveral, Florida and Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. Phytoplankton response in upwelled waters was determined with three interdisciplinary studies conducted during April 1979 and 1980, and in summer 1978. The results show that when shelf waters are not stratified, upwelling causes productive phytoplankton (diatom) blooms on the outer shelf. Phytoplankton production averages about 2 g C m⁻² d⁻¹ during upwelling events, and ‘new’ production is 50% or more of the total. When shelf waters are stratified, upwelled waters penetrate well onto the shelf as a subsurface intrusion in which phytoplankton production averages about fives times higher than the nutrient-depleted overlying mixed layer. Phytoplankton within the intrusion deplete upwelled NO₃ in about 7 to 10 days, at which point no further net increase in phytoplankton biomass occurs.Current meter records show that upwelling occurs roughly 50% of the time on the outer shelf during November to April (shelf not stratified), and we estimate that seasonal primary production in upwelled waters is 175 g C m⁻² 6 months⁻¹ of which at least 50% is ‘new’ production. More than 90% of outer shelf primary and ‘new’ production occurs during upwelling and thus upwelling is the dominant process affecting primary productivity of the outer shelf. Our seasonal estimates of outer shelf primary and ‘new’ production are, respectively, three and ten times higher than previous estimates that did not account for upwelling.     

Roughness effect on the correction factor of surface velocity for rill flows

Flow velocity is one of the most important hydrodynamic variables for both channelized (rill and gullies) and interrill erosive phenomena. The dye tracer technique to measure surface flow velocity V_s is based on the measurement of the travel time of a tracer needed to cover a known distance. The measured V_s must be corrected to obtain the mean flow velocity V using a factor α_v = V/V_s which is generally empirically deduced. The V_s measurement can be influenced by the method applied to time the travel of the dye-tracer and α_v can vary in different flow conditions. Experiments were performed by a fixed bed small flume simulating a rill channel for two roughness conditions (sieved soil, gravel). The comparison between a chronometer-based (CB) and video-based (VB) technique to measure V_s was carried out. For each slope-discharge combination, 20 measurements of V_s, characterized by a sample mean V_m, were carried out. For both techniques, the frequency distributions of V_s/V_m resulted independent of slope and discharge. For a given technique, all measurements resulted normally distributed, with a mean equal to one, and featured by a low variability. Therefore, V_m was considered representative of surface flow velocity. Regardless of roughness, the V_m values obtained by the two techniques were very close and characterized by a good measurement precision. The developed analysis on α_v highlighted that it is not correlated with Reynolds number for turbulent flow regime. Moreover, α_v is correlated neither with the Froude number nor with channel slope. However, the analysis of the empirical frequency distributions of the correction factor demonstrated a slope effect. For each technique (CB, VB)-roughness (soil, gravel) combination, a constant correction factor was statistically representative even if resulted in less accurate V estimations compared to those yielded by the slope-specific correction factor.     

Geochemical evidence for sundering of the West Mariana arc in miocene ash from the Parece Vela Basin

Glass and mineral fragments from discrete volcanic ash layers were sampled from DSDP/IPOD Site 450 in the Parece Vela Basin, Philippine Sea and analyzed by electron microprobe. The ashes are interpreted as eruptive products of the adjacent West Mariana arc system between 25 and 14 Ma B.P., and have compositions between basaltic andesite and rhyolite, and rarely, boninite. ‘Continuous’ chemical trends appear to reflect mixing of mafic and silicic magmas. ‘Discontinuous’ trends between these end-members are relatively few, and are consistent with ‘liquid lines’ produced by fractional crystallization. Andesitic tephra become progressively richer in MgO and CaO through the middle Miocene, while boninite appears towards the end of the sequence, between 14 and 15 Ma B.P. Coeval rhyolitic glasses become richer in K₂O and Na₂O, with maximum concentrations at about 15 Ma B.P. Chronologic changes in fractionation type and composition of parent magmas are interpreted to reflect the subaerial volcanic evolution of the West Mariana arc. The appearance of boninite is believed to signal early stages of arc sundering, and corresponds temporally with regional uplift of the sea floor above the carbonate compensation depth, precursor to a new pulse of back-arc spreading.     

Two-phase hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling of wave-generated sheet flow

This numerical investigation was carried out to advance mechanistic understanding of sediment transport under sheet flow conditions. An Euler–Euler coupled two-phase flow model was developed to simulate fluid–sediment oscillatory sheet flow. Since the concentration of sediment particles is high in such flows, the kinematics of the fluid and sediment phases are strongly coupled. This model includes interaction forces, intergranular stresses and turbulent stress closure. Each phase was modeled via the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations, with interphase momentum conservation accounting for the interaction between the phases. The generation and transformation of turbulence was modeled using the two-equation k–ε$k''–''\epsilon$ turbulence model. Concentration and sediment flux profiles were compared with experimental data for sheet flow conditions considering both symmetric and asymmetric oscillatory flows. Sediment and fluid velocity variations, concentration profiles, sediment flux and turbulence parameters of wave-generated sheet flow were studied numerically with a focus on sediment transport characteristics. In all applications, the model predictions compared well with the experimental data. Unlike previous investigations in which the flow is driven by a horizontal pressure gradient, the present model solves the Navier–Stokes equations under propagating waves. The model’s ability to predict sediment transport under oscillatory sheet flow conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology.