Representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra in Jiaozhou Bay

The spectrum shape characteristics of double-peaked sea wave spectia actually measured in the Jiaozhou Bay were analysed and one representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra with six-parameters which can be determined from a given sea wave spectrum is proposed in this paper. After verifying by fitting process with the data sets of double-peaked sea wave spectra measured in the Jiaozhou Bay, it can be seen from the results that the representation mentioned above may be used to express the double-peaked sea wave spectra generated in the Jiaozhou Bay under various sea states, and that the absolute values of maximum deviation index (D.I.) do not exceed 30. 0.     

Methods for retrieval of sea wave spectra from aerospace image spectra

An approach to the retrieval of sea wave spatial spectra based on satellite optical imagery in linear and nonlinear approximations is described. Physical mechanisms of the formation of disturbed sea surface brightness fields recorded by remote sensing equipment are analyzed. Wave spectra retrieval methods using brightness field formation models that consider linear and nonlinear dependencies on sea surface slopes are suggested. A method for the construction of operators that retrieve the spatial spectra of surface wave slopes and elevations from aerospace imagery and take into account nonlinear modulations of disturbed sea surface brightness fields is developed. This method is based on the numerical simulation of sea surface images and the construction of a retrieving operator with respect to a set of parameters determined by aerospace imaging conditions. Examples of the use of the developed methods are given.     

A criterion for the automatic identification of multimodal sea wave spectra

A simple and efficient procedure to automatically distinguish between uni-modal and multi-modal scalar spectra, which is consistent with the random nature of the spectral density estimations, is proposed. The suggested methodology is based on the logarithmic transformation of the spectral estimations. Examples that demonstrate the procedure are presented.     

由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征

采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.     

基于VB和Surfer的海浪数值预报结果动画显示

本文介绍了一种将Fortran计算程序(DOS程序)和Surfer结合起来实现数据图形化动态浏览的方法.该方法通过结合使用VB函数Shell和Windows API函数Open Process解决了DOS程序在VB中的调用和等待问题,用ActiveX技术解决VB调控Surfer的问题,实现了基于全球地形底图的波高和浪向动画显示.该方法同样可应用于温度、盐度、密度及海流等数值预报结果的可视化,可为海洋业务的分析和预报提供借鉴.     

Modelling of multipeaked directional wave spectra

An approach for modelling of multipeaked directional wave spectra is proposed. For model identification, a numerical optimization technique that uses the random linear search algorithm is applied. This technique allows the fitting of spectral models to measured or hindcast data. The HIPOCAS hindcast data for North Atlantic are used for an application study.     

海浪特性及其传播变形研究新进展

综述第27届国家海岸工程会议（ICCE2000）上有关海浪特性及其传播变形研究的新进展，内容包括海浪的时域特性，海浪的特征，海浪的传播变形和波浪的破碎，反射等四部分。     

Extreme wave conditions in the tyrrhenian sea

A hindcast study of extreme wave conditions in the Tyrrhenian Sea is described. The paper covers the different steps of the work, including the identification and the statistics of the weather patterns in the area, the choice of the storms to be hindcasted, the wind and wave models, a check of the best extremal distributions for the estimate of the extreme values probability, and the estimate of the accuracy of the final results. Detailed examples of the results are given, followed by a discussion of their reliability.     

海浪预报三维动画计算原理与制作方法

研究了基于线性海浪模型制作三维动画海浪预报产品的制作方法,并制作了首个三维动画海浪警报产品.基本步骤为:由线性海浪模型生成一系列不同波高和波长的二维海面高度场,以及这些波面高度场对应的反光系数场;根据海浪预报图中波高的空间分布情况将不同波高的波面高度场拼接成复合的波面高度场,同时拼接出与之对应的复合反光系数场;由复合的...     

Distribution of wave crests in a non-Gaussian sea

The sea elevation at a fixed point is modelled as a quadratic form of a vector valued Gaussian process with arbitrary mean. With this model, saddlepoint methods are used to approximate the mean upcrossing intensity with which the sea level crosses upwards at a certain height. This estimated intensity is further used to determine the probability distribution of wave crests. The use of saddlepoint technique is particularly important here because it can approximate the crest distribution without the need to perform simulations or use fitted distributions. Several numerical examples are given, including two with measured data. In the cases of real data, the results obtained with the saddlepoint technique are also compared with the results obtained with well known methods commonly used in the industry.     

Use of advanced directional wave spectra analysis methods

Frequency-dependent cross-spectral parameters for pitch-roll buoy data and parameters that describe directional wave spectra based on a directional Fourier series are developed by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and other organizations that collect wave data. The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) specifies wave data product formats in its Wave Observation (FM 65 WAVEOB) code. Other organizations, such as the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP), have similar specifications. A directional Fourier series has poor directional resolution compared with advanced methods such as those based on maximum likelihood and maximum entropy. Transformations are developed for applying the advanced methods and working with directional wave information stored in the WMO's FM 65 WAVEOB code, the FWGP's Wave Data Analysis Standard (WDAS) format, and similar codes and formats. Using the transformations, a directional Fourier series expansion method, a Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM), and a Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) are each applied to 115 sets of NDBC directional wave data. The MEM and MLM provide better directional resolution, but the MEM produces artificial double peaks. There are considerable differences for the three used methods. The developed transformation equations enable wave data users to apply the method that best suits their applications.     

Maximum entropy estimation of directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes

A procedure for estimating directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes based on the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) is developed in the present paper. The MEM approach yields an angular spreading function at each frequency band consistent with the input cross-spectral density matrix. The method is evaluated using numerical simulations of directional sea states. The MEM is also used to analyze data obtained from the three-dimensional wave basin of the Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council of Canada. Finally, the MEM is compared with the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and is shown to be a powerful tool for directional wave analysis.     

Pipeline breakout from sea floor under wave action

The vertical stability of a submarine pipeline laid half-buried on the sea floor under wave action is studied. As the wave-induced lifting force acts to detach the pipe from the sea floor, mud suction resistance will be developing at pipe-soil interface, acting to hold the pipe in place. This couples the pipe equilibrium with the seabed response which is modelled as a poroelastic media, following the formulation of Biot. Conditions for pipe detachment or breakout from the sea floor are investigated for typical seawave, pipe, and seabed parameters. A general power law will describe the slow quasistatic breakout of the pipe. In the case when the forcing wave period is much shorter than the quasistatic breakout time, the response function of the coupled pipe-seabed system will involve weak nonlinear terms of higher harmonics. The possibilities for resonating the system in such case are examined by including the inertia of the pipe in the analysis.     

Measuring the vertical directional spectra caused by sea surfacesound

The results of the initial deployment of a wideband (40-4000 Hz) vertical acoustic antenna system in the Tongue of the Ocean, the Bahamas are discussed. The instrumentation system consisted of seven octavely nested, four-wavelength linear apertures covering the above frequency range, and a VCR-based subsurface recording system that carried out a programmed sequence of recordings. The objective of the measurement system is the development of a database of directional spectra obtained in an acoustically isolated area where the ambient is principally controlled by the local (observable) sea-surface conditions. The purpose of the database is to identify a model of the space-time statistics of the acoustic ambient caused by sea-surface sound     

船载雷达观测海浪的研究

随着海洋工程的迅速发展,海洋资源开发和海洋环境保护以及海洋减灾防灾监测预报服务等各方面都特别需要沿岸近海的海浪动态特征信息.目前对海浪研究一般采用两种方法,一是动力学方法,二是统计学方法,但在研究中往往将两种方法结合起来[1].比较经典的方法是利用流体力学方程研究理想的规则波动(正弦波动、余弦波动、斯托克斯波动等),把海水视为不可压缩的理想流体,运动是无旋的.这一类的研究成果能够说明海洋中实际发生的一些比较规则的波动现象.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Estimation of multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measurements

In this paper a technique is discussed for analyzing multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measuring methods. The technique is illustrated for measurements, made with a three-dimensional acoustic current meter in the southern part of the North Sea.The examples given are discussed in the light of the meteorological situation prior to and during the time of recording. The method can be used for the separation of sea and swell, which is of importance for the calculation of wave loads on structures as will be shown finally.     

Measurement of ocean wave spectra using narrow-beam HE radar

A data interpretation algorithm is developed to extract ocean wave information from HF radar backscatter observed by a narrow-beam antenna system. The basis of this measurement is the inversion of the integral equation representing the second-order radar cross section of the ocean surface. This equation is numerically inverted by approximating it as a matrix equation and pseudoinverting the kernel matrix using a singular value decomposition. As a test of this algorithm, comparisons are made between wave spectrum estimates obtained from a WAVEC buoy and a pair of 25.4-MHz ground wave radars, using data collected during the 1986 Canadian Atlantic Storms Program (CASP). Overall, the results of this experiment have been positive and have demonstrated both the basic feasibility of the inversion algorithm and the wave sensing capability of HF radar. For example, significant wave height estimates deduced by two radars differed from the buoy, in an absolute value sense, by only 0.12 m on average. When using only one radar, the mean difference of this important parameter from the buoy was a reasonable 0.33 m