海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

Shock-capturing Boussinesq-type model for nearshore wave processes

This paper describes the formulation and validation of a nearshore wave model for tropical coastal environment. The governing Boussinesq-type equations include the conservative form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations for shock capturing. A Riemann solver supplies the inter-cell flux and bathymetry source term, while a Godunov-type scheme integrates the evolution variables in time. The model handles wave breaking through momentum conservation with energy dissipation based on an eddy viscosity concept. The computed results show very good agreement with laboratory data for wave propagation over a submerged bar, wave breaking and runup on plane beaches as well as wave transformation over fringing reefs. The model accurately describes transition between supercritical and subcritical flows as well as development of dispersive waves in the processes.     

潜堤上破碎波浪传播变形的数值模型及其验证

为模拟潜堤上破碎波浪传播时产生能量的耗散这一特性,在改进的具有四阶色散的Boussinesq水波方程中中入二阶紊动粘性项,建立了考虑波浪破碎的水波数学模型.在非交错网格下建立了有限差分数值模型,并利用三阶Adams-Bash forth格式预报、四阶Adams-Mouton格式校正对数值模型进行求解.通过数值试验,模拟...     

Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes

The flow field of waves breaking on a gently sloping beach is shown to closely resemble that of hydraulic jumps. This supports the use of the hydraulic jump formulation for the breaking wave energy dissipation. A correction to this formulation, which takes into account the effects of turbulent flow, is found to explain the observed discrepancies between the classical theoretical result and the experiments satisfactorily. These findings are used to propose a simple, semi-empirical model for the wave height decay which includes the set-up. The model is generalized to a wider range of wave conditions by analyzing published data.     

Experimental study on suspended sediment concentration and its vertical distribution under spilling breaking wave actions in silty coast

In this paper,flume experiments are focused on sediment transport inside and outside the surf zone.According to the energy dissipation balance principle of sediment-laden flow and the similarity between energy dissipation of spilling breaking wave and hydraulic jump,formulas are proposed to predict time averaged suspended sediment concentration under both non-breaking and breaking waves.Assuming that the sediment diffusion coefficient,which is related with energy dissipation,is proportional to water depth,formulas are proposed to predict close-to-bed suspended sediment concentration and vertical distribution of suspended sediment under spilling breaking waves,and the prediction shows a good agreement with the measurement.     

Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model

This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data.     

南海北部陆架区内波的演变与耗散机制

海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。     

浅滩地形上波浪破碎对低频波能放大的影响

低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。     

近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟

基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。     

柔性水囊潜堤消波特性的溃坝水槽试验研究

柔性水囊潜堤由橡胶制成,内部充水,具有结构简单、造价低廉等优点,能较好满足人工岛、跨海桥梁、海洋平台等基础设施建设工程对简单便携、拆装方便的临时防波堤的需求。为了探究柔性水囊潜堤的消波特性,在溃坝水槽内开展溃坝波与半圆柱形柔性水囊潜堤相互作用的试验研究,重点探究柔性水囊潜堤与溃坝波相互作用过程中水位变化特性,并与半圆柱刚性潜堤的性能进行比较;同时分析柔性水囊潜堤内部初始水压和浸没深度等参数对其消波性能的影响。结果表明：柔性水囊潜堤能够用作临时防波堤来衰减波浪;与半圆柱刚性潜堤相比,柔性水囊潜堤在降低溃坝波无量纲最大水位、提高消波性能方面更具优势;内部初始水压是影响柔性水囊潜堤消波性能的重要因素,适当降低内部初始水压,有利于增强柔性潜堤的变形程度,进而增加波能耗散,可获得更好的消波效果;而增加浸没深度即潜深,会使得柔性水囊潜堤对溃坝波的影响程度降低,消波效果减弱。     

Wave dissipation by vegetation with layer schematization in SWAN

The energy of waves propagating through vegetation is dissipated due to the work done by the waves on the vegetation. Dalrymple et al. (1984) estimated wave dissipation by integrating the force on a cylinder over its vertical extent. This was extended by Mendez and Losada (2004) to include varying depths and the effects of wave damping due to vegetation and wave breaking for narrow-banded random waves. This paper describes the wave dissipation over a vegetation field by the implementation of the Mendez and Losada formulation in a full spectrum model SWAN, with an extension to include a vertical layer schematization for the vegetation. The present model is validated with the original equation and results from Mendez and Losada (2004). The sensitivity of the model to the shape of the frequency spectrum, directional spreading and layer schematization are investigated. The model is then applied to field measurements by using a vegetation factor. This model has the ability to calculate two-dimensional wave dissipation over a vegetation field including some important aspects such as breaking and diffraction as used in SWAN model.     

Simulation of nearshore wave processes by a depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model

This paper presents CCHE2D-NHWAVE, a depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model for simulating nearshore wave processes. The governing equations are a depth-integrated vertical momentum equation and the shallow water equations including extra non-hydrostatic pressure terms, which enable the model to simulate relatively short wave motions, where both frequency dispersion and nonlinear effects play important roles. A special type of finite element method, which was previously developed for a well-validated depth-integrated free surface flow model CCHE2D, is used to solve the governing equations on a partially staggered grid using a pressure projection method. To resolve discontinuous flows, involving breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, a momentum conservation advection scheme is developed based on the partially staggered grid. In addition, a simple and efficient wetting and drying algorithm is implemented to deal with the moving shoreline. The model is first verified by analytical solutions, and then validated by a series of laboratory experiments. The comparison shows that the developed wave model without the use of any empirical parameters is capable of accurately simulating a wide range of nearshore wave processes, including propagation, breaking, and run-up of nonlinear dispersive waves and transformation and inundation of tsunami waves.     

海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响

海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。     

An evaluation of wave propagation simulations over a barred beach with a Boussinesq-type model

The FUNWAVE model is used for simulating simulation of monochromatic and irregular wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile. FUNWAVE is based upon the extended Boussinesq equations. The study aims to analyze the model's performance when simulating shoaling, wave breaking and nonlinear interactions that are present in nearshore wave propagation. For that, high-order time domain statistics (root mean-square wave height, skewness, asymmetry and the kurtosis) of the model simulations and of the observations were compared along the whole channel. Also, a frequency domain analysis including standard spectral analysis and the bispectrum was carried out in selected points of the flume. The evaluation included the role of the wave breaking internal model parameters. The main conclusion is that, in general, the one-dimensional version of FUNWAVE simulates quite well the nonlinear transformation of a wave over a bottom with a bar-tough profile, for both regular and irregular wave conditions. The model reproduces the transformation of the wave shape, specially the increasing sharper wave crests and flatter troughs and also the lack of vertical symmetry with crests pitching forward, as it propagates along the domain. However, some differences persist after wave breaking, mainly due to the nature of the wave-breaking module. In this module, the energy dissipation is induced by the increase of viscosity, a rather simple mechanism, without the modification of the wave shape. Also, the energy dissipation develops in a smooth way which is appropriated for spilling breaking waves, but not for plunging breaking waves where the dissipation starts more abruptly.     

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.     

Physical model of the spectrum of capillary-gravity waves

A model for the spectrum of capillary waves has been constructed. These waves are generated at the crests of short gravity waves and decay due to viscosity. Capillary wave generation leads to short gravity wave dissipation. Using empirical data on the short gravity wave dissipation spectrum, a relation for the capillary wave spectrum is derived from the equation of energy balance of capillary waves. The capillary wave spectrum is matched with the known Donelan-Pierson spectrum for short gravity waves. The obtained relation for the spectrum of wind-generated ripple is compared with the data of laboratory experiments. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Energy budget of surface waves in the global ocean

Mechanical energy input from atmosphere and losses from wave-breaking dissipation of sea surface waves are estimated by a direct scheme. This scheme is based on the integration in the wavenumber space of the wind input and breaking dissipation source functions of the MASNUM wave model. The global amount of wind energy input, averaged in 2005, is about 57 TW, and the wave-breaking dissipation summed in deep-water is about 33 TW, over a half of the wind energy input. The residual may be dissipated by beach processes. Global distributions of the energy input and breaking dissipation concentrate in the westerlies of the Southern Hemisphere.     

Non-linear propagation of unidirectional wave fields over varying topography

The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen [Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone.     

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations.     

Improvements on Mean Free Wave Surface Modeling

Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream funetion wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave breaker indcx in the calculation of wave breaking dissipation. The model is based on Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al. , 1992), with Time-Operator-Split-ting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of eomputational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or incident primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. The present model is found to be satisfactory compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983).