Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.     

基于GPU加速的Boussinesq类波浪传播变形数值模型

Boussinesq波浪模型是一类相位解析模型,在时域内求解需要较高的空间和时间分辨率以保证计算精度。为提高计算效率,有必要针对该类模型开展并行算法的研究。与传统的中央处理器(CPU)相比,图形处理器(GPU)有大量的运算器,可显著提高计算效率。基于统一计算设备架构CUDA C语言和图形处理器,实现了Boussinesq模型的并行运算。将本模型的计算结果同CPU数值模拟结果和解析解相比较,发现得到的结果基本一致。同时也比较了CPU端与GPU端的计算效率,结果表明,GPU数值模型的计算效率有明显提升,并且伴随数值网格的增多,提升效果更为明显。     

Internal wave generation in an improved two-dimensional Boussinesq model

A set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion in deeper water is solved numerically using a fourth order accurate predictor-corrector method. The model can be used to simulate the evolution of relatively long, weakly nonlinear waves in water of constant or variable depth provided the bed slope is of the same order of magnitude as the frequency dispersion parameter. By performing a linearized stability analysis, the phase and amplitude portraits of the numerical schemes are quantified, providing important information on practical grid resolutions in time and space. In contrast to previous models of the same kind, the incident wave field is generated inside the fluid domain by considering the scattered wave field in one part of the fluid domain and the total wave field in the other. Consequently, waves leaving the fluid domain are absorbed almost perfectly in the boundary regions by employment of damping terms in the mass and momentum equations. Additionally, the form of the incident regular wave field is computed by a Fourier approximation method which satisfies the governing equations accurately in water of constant depth. Since the Fourier approximation method requires an Eulerian mean current below wave trough level or a net mass transport velocity to be specified, the method can be used to study the interaction of waves and currents in closed as well as open basins. Several computational examples are given. These illustrate the potential of the wave generation method and the capability of the developed model.     

用含高色散性Boussinesq方程模拟潜堤上的波浪变形

基于一种高阶Boussiensq方程(刘忠波等,2004),采用预报-校正格式的有限差分法对该方程进行了数值离散,建立了数值模型。针对动量方程中三阶项的差分形式,采用了迎风格式和五点格式。通过数值模拟常水深下不同周期波浪传播变形,指出迎风格式在计算小周期波浪时存在的问题。为进一步验证数值模型的适用性,模拟了淹没潜堤上的传播变形。从数值结果与实验值的对比结果上看,该数值模型能较好地模拟波浪变形,可用于模拟实际中的波浪场问题。     

Propagation and run-up of nearshore tsunamis with HLLC approximate Riemann solver

A numerical model describing the propagation and run-up process of nearshore tsunamis in the vicinity of shorelines is developed based on an approximate Riemann solver. The governing equations of the model are the nonlinear shallow-water equations. The governing equations are discretized explicitly by using a finite volume method. The nonlinear terms in the momentum equations are solved with the Harten-Lax-van Leer-Contact (HLLC) approximate Riemann solver. The developed model is first applied to prediction of water motions in a parabolic basin, and propagation and subsequent run-up process of nearshore tsunamis around a circular island. Computed results are then compared with available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. Very reasonable agreements are observed.     

一个改进的二阶Boussinesq方程模型在线性波浪反射问题中的适用性研究

基于改进型的二阶Boussinesq方程,在交错网络下建立数值模型.利用模型模拟波浪在常水深情况下的传播,波浪反射系数均低于2％.利用该模型模拟波浪在平斜坡前的反射,并将数值结果与解析解进行对比.结果表明,对于相对水深较大情况,坡度较陡时模拟结果明显偏大;对 于相对水深较小情况,坡度超过1:1时,数值结果仍与解析解有....     

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model in generalized curvilinear coordinates

Based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in Cartesian coordinates, the equations in generalized coordinates are derived to adapt computations to irregularly shaped shorelines, such as harbors, bays and tidal inlets, and to make computations more efficient in large near-shore regions. Contravariant components of velocity vectors are employed in the derivation instead of the normal components in curvilinear coordinates or original components in Cartesian coordinates, which greatly simplifies the equations in generalized curvilinear coordinates. A high-order finite difference scheme with staggered grids in the image domain is adopted in the numerical model. The model is applied to five examples involving curvilinear coordinate systems. The results of these cases are in good agreement with analytical results, experimental data, and the results from the uniform grid model, which shows that the model has good accuracy and efficiency in dealing with the computations of nonlinear surface gravity waves in domains with complicated geometries.     

适合复杂地形的高阶Boussinesq水波方程

针对海底坡度较大(量阶为O(1))或海底曲率较大的复杂地形,建立了一个新型高阶Boussinesq水波方程.该方程可用于研究海底存在若干相互平行沙坝引起的Bragg反射问题.方程的水平速度沿水深的分布为四次多项式,色散性和变浅作用性能的精度比经典Boussinesq方程高了一阶.方程在浅水水域可以是完全非线性的.     

Essential properties of Boussinesq equations for internal and surface waves in a two-fluid system

Boussinesq equations describing motions of internal waves in a two-fluid system with the presence of free surface are theoretically derived, and the associated essential properties are examined in this study. Eliminating the dependence on the vertical coordinate from all variables, four equations constitute the Boussinesq model with two flexible parameters, z_u and z_l, which indicate the specific elevations, respectively, in the upper and lower fluids. Similar to the Boussinesq model for a single-layer fluid, z_u and z_l are determined by matching the linear dispersion relation with Lamb's solution. This determines the optimal model. In the analysis stage, this problem is classified into two cases, the thicker-upper-layer case and the thicker-lower-case case, to avoid the possible divergence of wave properties as the thickness ratio grows. Since there exist two modes of motions that may be excited, cases of both modes are separately analyzed. Linear characteristics including the amplitude ratios and normalized particle velocities are analyzed. Second-order harmonic waves are examined to validate nonlinear behaviors of present model. Results of linear and nonlinear investigations show that the present model indeed extends the applicable range of traditional Boussinesq equations.     

Numerical study for vegetation effects on coastal wave propagation by using nonlinear Boussinesq model

The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range.     

Nonlinear wave–structure interactions with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper describes the extension of a finite difference model based on a recently derived highly accurate Boussinesq formulation to include domains having arbitrary piecewise-rectangular bottom-mounted (surface-piercing) structures. The resulting linearized system is analyzed for stability on a structurally divided domain, and it is shown that exterior corner points pose potential stability problems, as well as other numerical difficulties. These are mainly due to the discretization of high-order mixed-derivative terms near these points, where the flow is theoretically singular. Fortunately, the system is receptive to dissipation, and these problems can be overcome in practice using high-order filtering techniques. The resulting model is verified through numerical simulations involving classical linear wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater, linear and nonlinear gap diffraction, and highly nonlinear deep water wave run-up on a vertical plate. These cases demonstrate the applicability of the model over a wide range of water depth and nonlinearity.     

Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity

In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.     

Boussinesq水波方程新型数值解法

为建立高效的Boussinesq类水波数值模型,提出了一种新型的、基于有限差分和有限体积方法的混合数值格式。针对守恒形式的一维控制方程,在等间距矩形控制体内对其进行积分并离散,采用有限体积方法计算界面数值通量,剩余源项采用有限差分方法计算。其中,采用MUSTA格式并结合高精度状态插值方法计算控制体界面数值通量。时间积分则采用具有TVD性质的三阶龙格-库塔多步积分法进行。除验证模型外,重点对MUSTA格式和广泛使用的HLL格式进行了比较。结果表明,MUSTA格式可用于Boussinesq类水波方程数值求解,综合考虑数值精度、计算效率、程序编制和实际应用这几个方面,其较HLL格式更具有优势。     

Alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Derivations and validations

An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations is developed, creating a model which is fully nonlinear up to O(μ⁴) (μ is the ratio of water depth to wavelength) and has dispersion accurate to the Padé [4,4] approximation. No limitation is imposed on the bottom slope; the variable distance between free surface and sea bottom is accounted for by a σ-transformation. Two reduced forms of the model are also presented, which simplify O(μ⁴) terms using the assumption ε = O(μ^2/3) (ε is the ratio of wave height to water depth). These can be seen as extensions of Serre's equations, with dispersions given by the Padé [2,2] and Padé [4,4] approximations. The third-order nonlinear characteristics of these three models are discussed using Fourier analysis, and compared to other high-order formulations of the Boussinesq equations. The models are validated against experimental measurements of wave propagation over a submerged breakwater. Finally, the nonlinear evolution of wave groups along a horizontal flume is simulated and compared to experimental data in order to investigate the effects of the amplitude dispersion and the four-wave resonant interaction.     

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.     

Numerical Models of Higher-Order Boussinesq Equations and Comparisons with Laboratory Measurement

Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations. Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations. The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.     

Boundary integral equation solutions for solitary wave generation, propagation and run-up

The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) is developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up. The wave motions are described by a potential flow theory. Nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions are incorporated in the numerical formulation. Examples are given for either a solitary wave or two successive solitary waves. Special treatment is developed to trace the run-up and run-down along a shoreline. The accuracy of the present scheme is verified by comparing numerical results with experimental data of maximum run-up.     

基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程二维波浪传播数值模型

建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.