An explicit approximation to the wavelength of nonlinear waves

An explicit and concise approximation to the wavelength in which the effect of nonlinearity is involved and presented in terms of wave height, wave period, water depth and gravitational acceleration. The present approximation is in a rational form of which Fenton and Mckee's (1990, Coastal Engng 14, 499–513) approximation is reserved in the numerator and the wave steepness is involved in the denominator. The rational form of this approximation can be converted to an alternative form of a power-series polynomial which indicates that the wavelength increases with wave height and decreases with water depth. If the determined coefficients in the present approximation are fixed, the approximating formula can provide a good agreement with the wavelengths numerically obtained by Rienecker and Fenton's (1981, J. Fluid Mech. 104, 119–137) Fourier series method, but has large deviations when waves of small amplitude are in deep water or all waves are in shallow water. The present approximation with variable coefficients can provide excellent predictions of the wavelengths for both long and short waves even, for high waves.     

考虑旋转向量水平分量的大洋内波方程的一个渐近解

对于考虑旋转向量水平分量的大洋内波方程,本文求出了满足该方程的波函数的一个渐近解.该渐近波函数的振荡特性得到研究,结果表明旋转向量水平分量对高模态(高波数)内波的影响是不可忽略的.     

A new kind of nonlinear mild-slope equation for combined refraction-diffraction of multifrequency waves

This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set.     

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.     

两相流模型在南海内孤立波与沙波相互作用中的应用

为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m³的悬沙浓度。     

Infragravity waves with internal wave characteristics in the south of the Bohai Sea of China

The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.     

南海西北陆坡区内潮与近惯性内波观测研究

通过对2006年南海西北部海域近3个月的全水深流速观测资料的分析,研究了该海区正压潮、内潮及近惯性内波的时空分布特征。结果表明,全日内潮明显强于半日内潮,且最大潮流均出现在海洋上层;内潮的主轴方向基本沿东南-西北方向,近似与局地等深线垂直;内潮能量显示出明显的时间长度约为半月的大小潮调制周期;全日内潮的coherent部分占全日内潮能量的70%,而半日内潮的coherent部分占半日内潮能量的53%;进一步研究发现半日内潮主要由第一模态主导,而全日内潮第三模态能量占总能量的比例仅次于第一模态且量值上与之相当;强风过程可激发出强的近惯性运动,暖涡使得近惯性内波能量更有效地向海洋深层传播,冷涡则不利于近惯性内波能量向下传播。     

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea: Ⅱ. Simulation of SAR signatures of internal solitary waves

A new model developed from the full-spectrum model of Lyzenga and Bennett （ 1988 ） is built up by us preliminarily through considering the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves. In the partial differential equation of the action spectral density of the surface gravity-capillary waves the source function representing the contribution of the turbulence is added besides the usual source function representing the contribution of the wind. The source function is determined by applying the κ - ε model and adopting the Nasmyth spectrum of oceanic turbulence （ Nasmyth, 1970; Oakey, 1982; Fan, 2002） on the basis of the previous simulation results of internal tide transformation obtained in the companion paper （Fan et al. ,2008）. Either under relatively high wind speed, or under low wind speed, our model predicts significant large modulations of radar backscatter at all three bands （ L, C and X bands） for both VV and HH polarization. These results prove that considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves is reasonable and appropriate for settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models.     

Is the small-scale turbulence an exclusive breaking product of oceanic internal waves

On the basis of the theoretical research results by the author and the literature published up to date, the analysis and the justification presented in this paper show that the breaking products of oceanic internal waves are not only turbulence, but also the fine-scale near-inertial internal waves (the oceanic reversible finestructure) for inertial waves and the internal solitary waves for internal tides respectively. It was found that the oceanic reversible finestructure may be induced by the effect of the horizontal component f (f = 2Ωcosφ) of the rotation vector on inertial waves. And a new instability of the theoretical shear and strain spectra due to the effect of f occurs at critical vertical wavenumber β c ≈ 0.1 cpm. It happens when the levels of shear and strain of the reversible finestructure are higher than those of inertial waves, which is induced by the effect of f along an "iso-potential-pycnal" of internal wave. If all breaking products of internal waves are taken into account, the average kinetic energy dissipation rate is an order of magnitude larger than the values of turbulence observed by microstructure measurements. The author’s theoretical research results are basically in agreement with those observed in IWEX, DRIFTER and PATCHEX experiments. An important impersonal fact is that on the mean temporal scale of thermohaline circulation these breaking products of internal waves exist simultaneously with turbulence. Because inertial waves are generated by winds at the surface, and internal tides are generated by strong tide-topography interactions, the analysis and justification in this paper support in principle the abyssal recipes Ⅱ:energetics of tidal and wind mixing by Munk & Wunsch in 1998, in despite of the results of microstructure measurements for the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and the diapycnal turbulent eddy diffusivity.     

On generation source sites of internal waves in the Luzon Strait

This effort aims to determine the generation source sites in the Luzon Strait for energetic, long-crest, transbasin internal waves （IW） observed in the northern South China Sea （NSCS）. The roles of islands distributed on eastern side of the strait, Kuroshio, submarine ridges, shoaling thennocline, and strait configuration played in the IW generation are examined using the cruise data analysis, satellite data interpretation, and dynamical analysis. The islands and channels on eastern side of the strait are excluded from a list of possible IW source sites owing to their unmatched horizontal dimensions to the scale of IW crest line length, and the relative low Reynolds number. The Kuroshio has a potential to be a radiator for the long-crest IW disturbances, meanwhile, the Kurosbio west （east） wing absorbs the eastward （westward） propagating IW disturbance. Namely, the Kuroshio blockades the outside west-east propagating IW disturbances. The 3-D configuration of the Luzon Strait is characterized by a sudden, more than one order widening of the cross-section areas at the outlets on both sides, providing a favorable condition for IW type initial disturbance formation. In the Luzon Strait, the thermocline is featured by a westward shoaling all the year around, providing the dynamical conditions for the amplitude growth （declination） to the westward （eastward） propagating IW type disturbance. Thus, the west slope of western submarine ridge at the western outlet of the Luzon Strait is a high possibility source sites for energetic, long-crest, transbasin IWs in the NSCS. The interpretation results of satellite SAR images during a 13 a period from 1995 to 2007 provide the convincing evidence for the conclusions.     

南海北部孤立波对近岸波动的响应

On the basis of the time series observations from a temperature chain and an acoustic Doppler current profiler on the continental shelf of the northern South China Sea, a sequence of internal solitary waves （ISWs） and background waves （BWs, including internal tides and near-inertial waves） on the continental shelf were captured simultaneously after the transit of Typhoon Neast in October 2011. These measurementsprovided a unique opportunity to explore the influence of BWs on the ISWs. The BWs appeared a conversion on the current strength and vertical mode structure during the observational period. The BWs were dominated by weak and mode-one waves before October 2 and then turned to strong and high-mode waves after that time. Meanwhile, the ISWs displayed different wave structures before and after October 2, which was closely related to BWs＇ changes. According to the current profiles of BWs, the high-mode wave structure with strong current could significantly strengthen the vertical shear of ISWs in the near-surface layer and promote the breaking of ISWs, and thus it may play an important role in affecting the background current condition.     

一种基于声速剖面展开的内波监测新方法

声速剖面时空分布的获取是利用声学方法监测内波的核心问题。在反演算法中,声速剖面通常是采用展开的方式用若干个参数来表示的。这就导致了有时很难从反演结果中直接获得内波的相关信息。本文的目标是找到一种通过展开系数直接获取内波特性的方法。通过推导内波水动力方程,可以从较少的声速剖面样本中提取出水动力简正模态（Hydrodynamic Normal Modes,HNMs）作为声速剖面展开的正交基。较之广泛采用的正交经验函数（Empirical Orthogonal Functions, EOFs）,HNMs直接与内波活动相关,具有更明确的物理含义。然后,基于HNMs对声速剖面的时间序列进行展开,获得展开系数。最后,从前两阶展开系数的时间导数中可以获取内波活动的信息。将方法应用于受内波影响而具有明显时空扰动的南海北陆架区温度链数据,结果表明：只用前两节模态就可以在较好的精度范围内重构声速剖面。前两阶系数的时间导数具有独特的双震荡结构可以用于探测内孤立波。从展开系数也可以获得幅度以及波长信息。理论推导和实验分析证明了本文方法在内波监测中的有效性。HNMs方法使用便利且对样本的依赖性较小,可以在内波活跃海域作为EOFs的有效补充用于声速剖面的展开。     

On pressure forcing techniques for numerical modelling of unidirectional nonlinear water waves

A method of incorporating pressure forcing into a nonlinear potential flow wave model is presented. A semi-analytical pseudo-spectral method is used to calculate dynamic response of a water body exposed to evolving local pressure distribution. Surface slope coherent and slope proportional pressure functions are directly applied through a pressure term appearing in the dynamic free-surface boundary condition of a formulated initial boundary-value problem. First, a monochromatic pressure distribution is used to generate steady regular waves of permanent form. The pressure-induced wave motion exhibits stable harmonic structure for deepwater, transitional water and shallow water waves. In the next step, a more complex pressure system is used to initiate multi-component wave propagation. It is demonstrated that the proposed method provides well-posed initial conditions for studying various water wave scenarios within a framework of nonlinear potential flow solutions.     

Application of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model to shallow water recurrence effects in random waves

The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.     

Oceanic pycnocline depth retrieval from SAR imagery in the existence of solitary internal waves

Oceanic pycnocline depth is usually inferred from in situ measurements. It is attempted to estimate the depth remotely. As solitary internal waves occur on oceanic pycnocline and propagate along it, it is possible to retrieve the depth indirectly in virtue of the solitary internal waves. A numerical model is presented for retrieving the pycnocline depth from synthetic aperture radar （SAR） images where the solitary internal waves are visible and when ocean waters are fully stratified. This numerical model is constructed by combining the solitary internal wave model and a two-layer ocean model. It is also assumed that the observed groups of solitary internal wave packets on the SAR imagery are generated by local semidiurnal tides. A case study in the East China Sea shows a good agreement with in situ CTD （conductivity-temperature-depth） data.     

基于X 波段雷达获取东沙群岛附近内波的传播速度

根据2009年6月24日15时40分至25日16时40分“科学一号”考察船在东沙岛东北部陆架上K106站进行的长达25 h的X波段雷达、温度链、声学多普勒流速剖面仪(ADCP)同步观测数据,在该海域利用 Radon 变换技术获取了本次观测到的内孤立波的传播速度.利用该孤立波到达前30 min 的ADCP 流速值,计算得到内波传播方向上的背景流流速为0.04 m/s.最终得出该孤立波的传播速度为3.04 m/s,传播方向约为297°.基于同样的处理方法,求解了本航次中获取的南海东北部陆架处其他站点部分内波的波速信息.南海东北部陆架处内波,主要向西或西北方向传播.本研究对增进东沙群岛附近内孤立波传播特征的认识,具有重要意义.     

Mooring observed mode-2 internal solitary waves in the northern South China Sea

The mode-2 internal solitary waves (ISWs) generated by mode-2 internal tide (IT) are identified by mooring observations in the northern South China Sea (SCS) from 2016 to 2017. Two mode-2 ISWs with a re-appearance period of 24.9 h observed on 29 and 30 July 2016 are characterized by type-b ISWs. They occurred when the isotherms compressed obviously in the vertical direction. Modal decomposition of IT horizontal currents shows that the vertical compression of the isotherms is mainly caused by diurnal mode-2 IT. The analysis of the role of the density stratification reveals that a deeper and thinner pycnocline is favorable for generation of mode-2 ISWs rather than pycnocline intensity. By comparing the mode-2 nonlinear, dispersion coefficients and the Ursell numbers calculated based on the stratification associated with different kinds of ITs with the observation results, it is shown that the diurnal mode-2 IT plays a crucial role in the generation of the mode-2 ISWs. When the diurnal mode-2 IT interacts with the semidiurnal IT and causes a deeper and thinner pycnocline, the mode-2 ISWs are easily excited.     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.