Beach nourishment effects on sand porosity variability

A standard assumption in coastal engineering is that the porosity of natural beach sand (non-cohesive) is 40%. However, is this assumption correct for all beach sand? This paper proposes an accurate and simplified method to assess changes in sand porosity after beach nourishment by means of in-situ density surveys through a nuclear densimeter. This novel application has been applied to different beaches in the southwest of Spain according to the tidal range, grain size and beach morphology in several terms. General results show that sand porosities range from 25.6% to 43.4% after beach nourishment works. This research can be considered a support tool in coastal engineering to find shifting sand volumes as a result of sand porosity variability after beach nourishment and later marine influence.     

Beach accretion and erosion, Burullus-Gamasa coast, Egypt

Several areas of erosion and accretion were observed along the Burullus-Gamasa beach. The accreted sands are coarser and less sorted than the eroded ones. Differentiation between them could be achieved on the basis of their grain-size fractions, shape of grain-size distribution curves and statistical grain-size parameter relationships.     

Beach erosion along the coastline of Alexandria, Egypt

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我国海滩养护修复的发展与技术创新

21世纪以来,海滩养护技术开始在我国得到应用并迅速发展。本研究基于对过去十几年来我国海滩养护技术的跟踪与深度研究,通过研读文献、资料收集和数据统计,分析了我国海滩养护发展现状及特征,总结归纳了我国在海滩养护技术方面的创新,最后展望了海滩养护的未来发展并提出了建议。研究发现,我国的海滩养护工程在2005年之前较少,此后快速持续增加;在3种养护目的中,滨海旅游占绝大多数,达61. 7%;修复海滩类型中,人造海滩和修复受损海滩的比例相当,同质养护和异质养护的占比分别为51. 1%和48. 9%;在养护海滩的平面形态中,岬湾形态的占比最高,达43. 6%。结果表明,我国在海滩修复养护技术中取得了一些创新,主要包括强潮海岸、强侵蚀海岸、淤泥质海岸等多种动力条件下的海滩修复理论和理念,以及海滩城市排水优化设计、海滩生态养护潜堤等技术方法。     

Beach and dune erosion during storm surges

This paper presents the set-up and results of an extensive research programme concerning the erosion of coastal dunes during storm surges. A large number of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mobile-bed model tests has been carried out to investigate the process of dune erosion. The state of art after a series of small-scale tests is summarized. Attention is focussed on large-scale tests carried out in the Delta Flume with random waves up to 2 m significant height. Sediment concentration and orbital velocity measurements are discussed. The large-scale tests have confirmed the validity of a modelling technique based on the dimensionless fall velocity parameter H/Tw. The model results are being applied to check the safety of existing coastal dunes as a water-retaining structure that has to protect the major part of the Netherlands from inundation during storm surges.     

广西北海银滩侵蚀动力研究

广西北海银滩是一处典型的强潮海滩,以滩面宽阔、砂质纯白为特征,为当地的一处著名旅游景点。近年来银滩也出现了岸线后退、滩肩消失、沉积粗化等侵蚀迹象。为了研究银滩侵蚀的动力机制,本文对银滩海水浴场当前的滩面高程、坡度以及滩面后退距离特征进行了调查和分析。并基于2016−2018年间的滩面高程动态变化,分析了冬、春季风浪和台风期间水位、波浪特征与滩面侵蚀之间的关系,并进而探讨了最有可能造成银滩侵蚀的台风路径。研究表明,1985年以来的滩面最大后退距离为80 m,侵蚀造成海滩上部滩面坡度降低,使得海滩上部的剖面形态向上凸状转化。冬、春季节的风浪叠加高水位可能会造成一定程度的滩面侵蚀,并在海滩上部形成脊槽地貌,但是这种侵蚀会被夏季西南向涌浪导致的回淤所恢复。造成银滩侵蚀后退的主要原因是2003年以来风暴潮重现频率增加。发源于西太平洋,经海南岛北部或雷州半岛进入北部湾的台风可以导致显著的海岸增水,最易于引起强烈的海滩侵蚀事件。银滩东侧的渔港码头阻断了自东向西的泥沙沿岸净输运,也是加剧银滩侵蚀的重要因素。     

Numerical study of shoreline changes by emergency beach nourishment project at the Middle Beach of Beidaihe, China

Beach nourishment is a common coastal management strategy used to protect beach from erosion along the sandy coastlines. This method has been successfully applied to an emergency project at the West Beach of Beidaihe in the summer of 2008 and the full West Beach nourishment project in 2009-2010, which is the direct base of this study. Some basic information about the emergency engineering area at the Middle Beach is firstly described. The shoreline change of this area, including the analysis of beach width in five monitoring profiles in the bathing places of Middle Beach, is then discussed. After that a numerical model based on one-line theory is established and the numerical results agree well with the measured shorelines, which indicates that the model is appropriate and is qualified to predict the shoreline change of the Middle Beach. With the same model and parameters, long-term performance of the project is predicted, and the result shows that without follow-up nourishment and project, the bathing places can remain suitable for bathing for about 10 a. It is suggested to nourish the beach in time and carry out the beach nourishment project for the full Middle Beach in Beidaihe.     

Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment

A state-of-the-art process-based model is applied to hindcast the morphological development of a shoreface nourishment along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands. The applied morphodynamic model is Delft3D for fully three-dimensional flow and sediment transport in coastal environments. Owing to a complex geomorphological setting of the study area, the curvi-linear model includes adjacent tidal inlets and covers 40×70 km with an increasing grid size resolution towards the nourishment site in the center of the island. In 1993, a total of 2 Mm³ of sand was supplied to the nearshore bar zone off Terschelling, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. By spring 1994, most of the nourished sediment had been redistributed onshore and welded onto the middle bar where it remained in the following years. The morphodynamic model is applied to the prediction of this rapid nearshore profile behaviour. The calibration of the model against an extensive set of full-scale hydrodynamic data at several locations throughout the nearshore bar zone shows a good representation of the measured hydrodynamics. Morphodynamic results show a dependency on spatial scale: on the scale of precise bed level evolution with respect to bar migration and growth, model predictions are poor as the nearshore bars are predicted to flatten out. Resorting to bulk volumes integrated over larger spatial scales, the model clearly has skill in predicting the overall effects of the nourishment. The lack of phase shift between sediment transport and bathymetry is identified as the key controlling factor for the poor sandbar predictions.     

Linear evolution of a shoreface nourishment

The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with negative growth rates of the morphodynamical system. The evolution of these linear modes then determines the temporal behaviour of the shoreface nourishment. The method is presented, and results are shown for shoreface nourishments of different length scales on a straight coast and subject to normal incidence. Shoreface nourishments are represented by their expansions according to the projection method on a 1:50 plane beach profile. All nourishments are shown primarily to be diffusive features, with long scale nourishments diffusing more slowly than shorter length scale nourishments. Long scale nourishments also exhibit a shoreward movement during their decay. This all indicates that long length scale nourishments may be more beneficial in coastal engineering projects. This study is a first step towards nonlinear projection to study shoreface nourishment behaviour.     

Multigrain sedimentation/erosion model based on cross-shore equilibrium sediment distribution: Application to nourishment design

In the light of global warming and sea level rise there are many coastal beaches that suffer from erosion. Beach nourishment has become a common practice to maintain the sediment balance on a shore-face. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical model for evaluating long-term impact of beach nourishment projects has been developed. The model addresses the longstanding complex issue of coastal morphology and sediment grain size distribution from an unconventional angle, which exploits the strong links between grain size distribution and the prevailing transport direction of each sediment constituent under ‘average’ wave and storm action. The present model predicts the redistribution of nourished sediment according to the subtle clues implied by equilibrium distribution curves and latest coastal wave transformation theories. After verification against recent field observations in Terschelling, The Netherlands, the model was used to predict long-term effects of different beach nourishment strategies. It was found that: (a) given the source sediment available in Terschelling the tactics of large volume and less frequent implementation are better than otherwise; and (b) from a pure engineering point of view, waterline nourishment outperforms offshore trough nourishment.The model offers an additional tool for coastal engineers to evaluate the feasibility, effectiveness and the optimization of dumping locations for beach nourishment projects. It is also a useful tool for stratigraphic modelling of shallow-marine sedimentation in conjunction with sea level changes.     

Coastal erosion and control

Coastal erosion is a problem at many coastal sites caused by natural effects as well as human activities. This paper explores the coastal cell concept to deal with coastal erosion by identifying and analysingthe sediment volumes accumulated in large-scale and small-scale coastal cells at various sites. Mechanisms causing chronic erosion and episodic erosion related to coastal variability are identified and discussed. The effectiveness of soft and hard remedial measures for sandy beaches are assessed based on laboratory, field and modelling experiences.     

Morphodynamic response of nearshore bars to a shoreface nourishment

The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm³ shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates.     

Morphodynamic response of a two-barred beach to a shoreface nourishment

The response to a shoreface nourishment of the two-bar system at Noordwijk (the Netherlands) is analyzed based on a daily data set of time-exposure video images collected during about 6 years, complemented with topographic and bathymetric surveys. The 1.7 Mm³ nourishment, implemented as a 3 km alongshore bump seaward of the outer bar, migrated more than 300 m onshore in 4 years before losing its integrity. Furthermore, the nourishment interrupted the autonomous seaward migration of both bars for the entire duration of the study period and, allaying earlier fears, did not intensify the three-dimensional patterns in the bars, such as the crescentic plan-shape and rip channels. The nourishment did result in clear head effects on both flanks, with the bar becoming discontinuous and the flank section decaying or becoming attached to an offshore-located bar, while the section of bar landward of the nourishment became attached to a landward-located bar. This sequence of morphologies is known as bar switching. Each switching episode took almost one year to complete and can therefore not be ascribed to individual wave events. We suspect that shoreface nourishments enhance the possibility of bar switching by creating alongshore variability in the position and depth of the outer bar and in its cross-shore migration rate and direction. The Noordwijk nourishment did not influence the shoreline position as its trend did not undergo distinctive variations after 1998. Differences in the response of the Noordwijk sandbars to the shoreface nourishment compared with other Dutch nourishments are attributed to the location and size (volume per unit length) of the nourishment with respect to the sandbars and to the median grain size of the nourished material.     

Shoreline Change Modeling on Emergency Beach Nourishment Project on West Beach of Beidaihe, China

By use of a shoreline-change numerical model (GENESIS) based on one-line theory, a preliminary modeling study on shoreline changes caused by a beach nourishment project in Beidaihe, China, is presented in this paper. Firstly, the GENESIS model is verified and model sensitivity to the major parameter changes is discussed by simulating a hydraulic model test. The beach nourishment project, after that the shoreline change is kept being monitored, is a small-scale emergency one carried out to use two bathing places on the west beach in the summer, 2008. In this paper the shoreline changes caused by the beach nourishment project are modeled by the GENESIS model, and the computed results fit well with the measured shorelines. With the same model and parameters, a long-term performance of the project is predicted, and the result shows that the bathing places only can be suitable for bathing in 2 to 3 years without subsequence nourishment project. Therefore, it is proposed to nourish the beaches in time to keep the service life of the beach in recent years and carry out the beach nourishment project for the whole west beach as soon as possible.     

Storm-Induced Deformations of a Barred Beach Slope

Oceanology - It is shown that behavior of a multiple-bar system during a storm can be described with a model assuming that bars move toward the sea at almost the same mean rate, while the depths...     

海滩养护修复过程中拦沙堤的应用

拦沙堤作为海滩养护最常用的辅助工程之一,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。在总结我国海滩养护过程中拦沙堤应用现状的基础上,将拦沙堤的功能分为3类（防泥沙扩散、防沿岸输沙、防浪+防输沙）,并详细分析这3类拦沙堤在我国海滩养护的应用现状和发展规律。基于国内外工程实践,进一步探讨海滩养护中拦沙堤的多项应用创新：组合式拦沙堤设计、拦沙堤平面形态优化、拦沙堤堤群设计、拦沙堤+潜堤组合优化、拦沙堤+旁通输沙/循环养护。最后,展望未来海滩养护中拦沙堤的发展应用趋势（拦沙量的精准调控、丰富多样的形态设计、基于“自然工法”的生态化建设）,并给出了相关建议。     

长江口北支上段岸滩侵蚀及保护实施效果分析

受上下游工程、来水来沙影响,长江口北支上段近期岸滩侵蚀后退严重。为揭示北支上段近期演变机理,控制河势变化和保护生态基底,收集2001年以来长江口北支全河道水下地形资料,并开展了2017—2020年工程区段水下地形精细实测,基于水动力数学模型研究了岸滩保护措施合理性,以分形理论评价了保护措施实施后效果。结果表明：①长江口北支进口江心洲发育,导致上段“S”形主轴弯曲度加大,加剧了暗沙、江心洲和岸滩动荡;②在冲刷最严重的岸滩采用丁坝群加护坎可有效阻止岸滩侵蚀后退;③多年水下地形实测和分形理论计算评价,岸滩趋于稳定,生态基底得以恢复。鉴于新江心沙洲发育和岸滩、深槽变化加剧了北支上段演变的复杂性,建议尽快成立综合协调部门,统筹提出满足水利、防洪、供水、航运、生态等多目标需求的综合整治方案。