中国海岸侵蚀治理和海岸保护

加强海滩和海岸侵蚀的研究，组织建筑用砂资源的调查，进一步完善海洋环境保护法或制定海岸环境保护法以便制止不合理的采砂和保护沿岸单位和居民的合法权益，使出现环境问题后的赔偿有确定保证，防止人工海岩进一步扩大，发展偏僻海岸地区的发候旅游，让沿岩居民能从保护海岩中得到实际利益，以便使我国海岸侵蚀治理和海岸保护达到一个新水平。     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

信风张弛对赤道东、西太平洋斜压扰动的影响研究

利用一个斜压两层海洋模式解析地研究了赤道东、西太平洋对信风张弛的响应特征.研究表明:当赤道上空偏东信风张弛或转为西风时,由于打破了海洋原来的平衡关系,结果在赤道东、西太平洋的温跃层附近产生了扰动并开始传播.西太平洋温跃层附近的扰动向东传播的速度远大于东太平洋扰动向西传播的速度,而且与东太平洋温跃层扰动向西传播的狭窄范围和小振幅相比,西太平洋温跃层扰动向东传播的范围和强度均很大.这与最近几次强厄尔尼诺增暖事件暖水从赤道西太平洋向赤道中、东太平洋的迅速传播特征是一致的.     

粤西海岸全新世中期以来海平面升降与海岸沙坝潟湖发育过程

沙坝湖海岸是一种重要的海岸类型。文章论述了粤西海岸全新世中期以来在海平面升降影响下沙坝湖地貌的发育过程,得出如下结论：距今7000a至5000a．海平面曾上升至＋4m,由于大陆架泥沙的向陆堆积,形成了揭湖拦湾沙坝的后缘高突部分：以后海平面逐步下降至现今位置,它所形成的海退沙楔发育成低矮的向海沙坝和海滩;距今2000a,海平面趋于相对稳定;现今海平面微升,出现了海岸侵蚀。文章还对该地在海平面升降影响下的海岸泥沙运移机制以及海岸高海面堆积和现今海岸侵蚀现象作了解析。     

秦皇岛地区滨海湿地类型及其生态脆弱性

泰皇岛地区滨海湿地是我国最具代表性的沙质海岸湿地分布区,主要湿地类型为沙质海岸湿地、岩石性海岸湿地、河口湿地、泻湖湿地、浅海水域和人工湿地．受自然和人为因素的综合影响,滨海湿地生态束皖具有明显的脆弱性,主要表现为湿地植被自然演变缓慢、淡水供蛤量严重不足、海岸侵蚀日趋严重、人工围垦导致大面积自然湿地消失以及环境污染等几个方面．滨海湿地生态脆弱性与人类活动密切相关,合理调控人类干扰活动是促使湿地脆弱生态束皖向良性和狍定方向发展的关键．     

Biological and chemical consequences of the 1997–1998 El Niño in central California waters

The physical, chemical and biological perturbations in central California waters associated with the strong 1997–1998 El Niño are described and explained on the basis of time series collected from ships, moorings, tide gauges and satellites. The evolution of El Niño off California closely followed the pattern observed in the tropical Pacific. In June 1997 an anomalous influx of warm southerly waters, with weak signatures on coastal sea level and thermocline depth, marked the onset of El Niño in central California. The timing was consistent with propagation from the tropics via the equatorial and coastal wave-guide. By late 1997, the classical stratified ocean condition with a deep thermocline, high sea level, and warm sea surface temperature (SST) commonly associated with El Niño dominated the coastal zone. During the first half of 1998 the core of the California Current, which is normally detected several hundred kilometers from shore as a river of low salinity, low nutrient water, was hugging the coast. High nutrient, productive waters that occur in a north–south band from the coast to approximately 200 km offshore during cool years disappeared during El Niño. The nitrate in surface waters was less than 20% of normal and new production was reduced by close to 70%. The La Niña recovery phase began in the fall of 1998 when SSTs dropped below normal, and ocean productivity rebounded to higher than normal levels. The reduction in coastal California primary productivity associated with El Niño was estimated to be 50 million metric tons of carbon (5×10¹³ g C). This reduction certainly had deleterious effects on zooplankton, fish, and marine mammals. The 1992–1993 El Niño was more moderate than the 1997–1998 event, but because its duration was longer, its overall chemical and biological impact may have been comparable. How strongly the ecosystem responds to El Niño appears related to the longer-term background climatic state of the Pacific Ocean. The 1982–1983 and 1992–1993 El Niños occurred during the warm phase of the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO). The PDO may have changed sign during the 1997–1998 El Niño, resulting in weaker ecological effects than would otherwise have been predicted based on the strength of the temperature anomaly.     

全球变暖背景下最近40年太平洋海温变化数值模拟

用Non-Boussinesq POP模式和1960—1999年NCEP的1 000 hPa大气温度和风场资料,模拟了最近40 a太平洋海温的变化,通过与实际观测结果比较,得出模拟结果是可信的,并且得到了一些有意义的结果:在海面,太平洋最大的增温发生在赤道中东太平洋,即Niño1-Niño4区内,最大的降温在中纬度南北太平洋中部,除了北半球太平洋西岸40°N附近为降温外,在北半球太平洋沿岸基本上为升温,但太平洋东海岸的升温幅度要远大于西海岸;在太平洋0~483 m深度垂直方向,除了赤道中太平洋区域海温的变化在海面为上升,在169 m处为下降,在483 m处又转为上升外,其他区域海温的变化在垂直方向基本上为线性变化。在全球增暖的背景下,虽然El Niño现象在20世纪90年代以后表现出增强的趋势,但是反映在赤道表面以下的次表层西太平洋暖池中的异常暖中心,在由西向东移动过程中其强度却是减弱的。     

现生鹦鹉螺类的地理分布

海水压强和水深超过2000m的里德堆和巴拉望海槽,可能是使活的鹦鹉螺Nautilus pompilius Linnaeus不能从菲律宾群岛向西分布的两大障碍。海流可能是影响鹦鹉螺类空壳分布最主要的限制因素。     

Long-term sea-level variability in the eastern South Atlantic and a comparison with that in the eastern Pacific

The data set of pressure-corrected monthly mean sea level from sites on the coast of the eastern South Atlantic Ocean has now been extended to cover the years from 1959 to 1985. The length of this data set is now comparable to those used in studies of long-term variability in sea level in the eastern Pacific Ocean. Comparison of the data sets reveals a qualitative agreement in the character of the variability in sea level between the two oceans. In particular, the possibility of high sea-level events propagating polewards from the equatorial Atlantic in the manner of the Pacific El Niño is explored and confirmed. The sea-level record, supported by evidence from published studies of variability in sea surface temperature, shows that the years 1963, 1974 and 1984 should be considered to be years of anomalously high sea level along the entire eastern South Atlantic Ocean.     

中国近海海平面变化与ENSO的关系

利用中国沿海台站潮位和中国近海及赤道太平洋的卫星测高、海表温度、风及气压资料,分析了中国近海海平面变化与ENSO的关系。分析结果表明:中国沿海海平面季节变化受ENSO影响明显,在厄尔尼诺事件期间,中国沿海海平面Sa分潮的振幅明显减小,其中年振幅的历史极小值均出现厄尔尼诺年,不同区域历史极小值出现的年份不同;另外,中国沿海Sa分潮的振幅对厄尔尼诺事件的响应与其强弱有关,在强事件中,响应区域和幅度较大,弱事件中,响应区域和幅度偏小。在厄尔尼诺年,中国沿海海平面多低于相邻年份,并且其年际变化存在明显的2~3a、4~7a、准9a、11a和准19a的周期,其中4~7a的周期在冬春季节震荡最显著,其震荡幅度接近2cm。中国近海海平面与赤道东太平洋区域的海表温度年际变化之间存在反相关关系,其相关系数为-0.42;同时与Nio4和Nio3.4指数序列也呈现反相关关系。针对典型的1997/1998年尼诺事件发生前后的风场和气压场分析发现,尼诺发生前的冬半年,冬季风偏强,气压梯度加强,中国沿海海平面偏低;到了厄尔尼诺的盛期,出现较强的南风异常,气压梯度反向,季风转向,过渡到了厄尔尼诺事件的衰减期,为拉尼娜事件做准备,此时海平面偏高。     

埃及阿莱曼旅游区海滩养护及硬工程作用

阿莱曼海滩位于埃及尼罗河三角洲西侧,是长约12 km的平直沙坝潟湖岸,在强劲的西向常、强浪的作用下,泥沙沿岸向东运移,引起海岸长期强烈蚀退。1998-2009年分3个阶段整治和抛沙养滩,先后建成13条丁坝组成的丁坝群,丁坝效应稳定了8.5 km的海滩,3个阶段共向滩肩抛沙116×104 m3,但是水下基岩陡斜地形导致严重沙流失,使海滩不能增宽,丁坝群尾闾效应也导致丁坝群下游3.5 km海难侵蚀更加严重,于是先后采取了分段式岸外坝群和岸外连续长潜堤加堤内丁坝格,消除了丁坝群下游岸的侵蚀。结合我国相应案例说明在那些强烈侵蚀和严重沙流失岸段养滩,必须强调丁坝、岸外坝等硬工程的作用。这些构筑物既能消散波能,又能阻拦所抛沙的流失。对于那些水下为基岩陡斜地形的海滩,更应设计一定的硬工程,埃及阿莱曼的连续长潜堤加丁坝格的设计和我国三亚三美湾的连续岸外坝丁坝加人造沙坝的经验都是十分重要的。     

ENSO variability and the eastern tropical Pacific: A review

El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) encompasses variability in both the eastern and western tropical Pacific. During the warm phase of ENSO, the eastern tropical Pacific is characterized by equatorial positive sea surface temperature (SST) and negative sea level pressure (SLP) anomalies, while the western tropical Pacific is marked by off-equatorial negative SST and positive SLP anomalies. Corresponding to this distribution are equatorial westerly wind anomalies in the central Pacific and equatorial easterly wind anomalies in the far western Pacific. Occurrence of ENSO has been explained as either a self-sustained, naturally oscillatory mode of the coupled ocean–atmosphere system or a stable mode triggered by stochastic forcing. Whatever the case, ENSO involves the positive ocean–atmosphere feedback hypothesized by Bjerknes. After an El Niño reaches its mature phase, negative feedbacks are required to terminate growth of the mature El Niño anomalies in the central and eastern Pacific. Four requisite negative feedbacks have been proposed: reflected Kelvin waves at the ocean western boundary, a discharge process due to Sverdrup transport, western Pacific wind-forced Kelvin waves, and anomalous zonal advections. These negative feedbacks may work together for terminating El Niño, with their relative importance being time-dependent.ENSO variability is most pronounced along the equator and the coast of Ecuador and Peru. However, the eastern tropical Pacific also includes a warm pool north of the equator where important variability occurs. Seasonally, ocean advection seems to play an important role for SST variations of the eastern Pacific warm pool. Interannual variability in the eastern Pacific warm pool may be largely due to a direct oceanic connection with the ENSO variability at the equator. Variations in temperature, stratification, insolation, and productivity associated with ENSO have implications for phytoplankton productivity and for fish, birds, and other organisms in the region. Long-term changes in ENSO variability may be occurring and are briefly discussed. This paper is part of a comprehensive review of the oceanography of the eastern tropical Pacific.     

厦门吴冠海蚀地貌的地学意义及利用探讨

吴冠岸段是厦门为数很少的自然海岸之一,保留着该地区少见的有规模的花岗岩海蚀地貌景观．考察发现,该段海岸有海蚀崖、海蚀穴、海蚀平台、海蚀洞、海蚀拱桥、海蚀蘑菇等海蚀地貌类型,以及众多形态逼真、造型生动的象形石景观．资料显示,半封闭海湾内成规模的海蚀地貌较少罕见,吴冠海蚀地貌对于研究小风区作用下的基岩海岸动力地貌特征具有重要的地学意义;对于研究全新世构造运动、全新世海平面变化等具有重要的科研、科普价值．该海蚀地貌作为区域性的稀缺地学景观资源,还具有很高的景观美学、旅游资源价值．应将其作为自然历史遗迹及时加以保护,并在保护的基础上充分发挥其地学旅游资源价值．可通过肖形策划与艺术设计、提升科技和文化内涵、修复其南侧受损沙滩、融合区域旅游资源等措施,建成融美学景观旅游、科技和文化旅游、休闲娱乐旅游为一体的地学旅游景区．     

热带太平洋海平面低频变化

本文选取ECMWF ORAS4再分析数据对1959-2015年热带太平洋海平面的低频变化进行了分析。热带太平洋海平面年际变化第一模态反映了ENSO爆发阶段的海平面变化,热带东、西太平洋变化反相,其时间序列与Niño3.4指数高度相关。海平面第二模态则体现了El Niño爆发前后热带太平洋暖水的输运过程。El Niño爆发前热带西太平洋暖水聚集的位置,以及爆发后暖水向赤道外输运的位置在两类El Niño事件中均有所不同。此外,ENSO的周期在近半个世纪发生了显著的年代际变化,这一变化与热带太平洋的年代际变化有关。热带太平洋的年代际变化对海平面趋势变化也有着显著的影响。卫星高度计观测到的近20年海平面的快速上升（下降）正是由20世纪90年代后热带太平洋频繁的位相转换引起的。     

Assessment by microsatellite analysis of genetic diversity and population structure of Enhalus acoroides from the coast of Khanh Hoa Province, Vietnam

Seagrass beds degraded significantly since the last century on both, global and local scale. The seagrass species Enhalus acoroides (Linnaeus f.) Royle is a common species found in almost all marine ecosystems including bays, lagoons and around offshore islands in tropical regions of the West Pacific. It was shown that genetic diversity is an essential indicator of the conditions of ecosystems. In the present study, microsatellite markers were used to assess the genetic diversity and population structure of six distinct seagrass beds along the coast of the Khanh Hoa Province, Vietnam. The results indicate that the genetic diversity of the populations in the open sea is higher than in the lagoon. Seagrass beds occurring in disturbed sites show reduced genetic diversity. The fixing index value (F_ST) depicts a relatively high genetic structure among populations. Structure analysis clusters the populations into open sea and lagoon populations and cluster analysis and AMOVA indicate a significant difference between the two groups. There are low but non-significant positive correlations between geographic and genetic distances. The different habitats of the open sea and the lagoon are probably responsible for forming two groups.     

ENSO-induced interannual variability in the southeastern South China Sea

In this study, El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO)-induced interannual variability in the South China Sea (SCS) is documented using outputs from an eddy-resolving data-assimilating model. It is suggested that during an El Niño (La Niña) event, off-equatorial upwelling (downwelling) Rossby waves induced by Pacific equatorial wind anomalies impinge on the Philippine Islands and excite upwelling (downwelling) coastal Kelvin waves that propagate northward along the west coast of the Philippines after entering the SCS through the Mindoro Strait. The coastal Kelvin waves may then induce negative (positive) sea level anomalies in the southeastern SCS and larger (smaller) volume transport through the Mindoro and Luzon Straits during an El Niño (La Niña) event.     

Calculation of Interannual Variations of Sea Level in the Subtropical North Pacific

The interannual variations of sea level at Chichi-jima and five other islands in the subtropical North Pacific are calculated for 1961–95 with a model of Rossby waves excited by wind. The Rossby-wave forcing is significant east of 140°E. Strong forcing of upwelling (downwelling) Rossby wave occurs during El Niño (La Niña) and warm (cold) water anomaly in the eastern equatorial Pacific. The first and second baroclinic modes of Rossby wave are more strongly generated than the barotropic mode in the study area. A higher vertical mode of Rossby wave propagates more slowly and is more decayed by eddy dissipation. The best coefficient of vertical eddy dissipation is determined by comparing the calculated sea level with observation. The variation in sea level at Chichi-jima is successfully calculated, in particular for the long-term change of the mean level between before and after 1986 with a rise in 1986 as well as the variations with periods of two to four years after 1980. It is concluded that variations of sea level at Chichi-jima are produced by wind-forced Rossby waves, the first baroclinic wave primarily and the barotropic wave secondly. The calculation for other islands is less successful. Degree of the success in calculation almost corresponds to a spatial difference in quantity of wind data, and seems to be determined by quality of wind data.     

Evolution and preservation potential of fluvial and transgressive deposits on the Louisiana inner shelf: understanding depositional processes to support coastal management

The barrier-island systems of the Mississippi River Delta plain are currently undergoing some of the highest rates of shoreline retreat in North America (~20 m/year). Effective management of this coastal area requires an understanding of the processes involved in shoreline erosion and measures that can be enacted to reduce loss. The dominant stratigraphy of the delta plain is fluvial mud (silts and clays), delivered in suspension via a series of shallow-water delta lobes that prograded across the shelf throughout the Holocene. Abandonment of a delta lobe through avulsion leads to rapid land subsidence through compaction within the muddy framework. As the deltaic headland subsides below sea level, the marine environment transgresses the bays and wetlands, reworking the available sands into transgressive barrier shorelines. This natural process is further complicated by numerous factors: (1) global sea-level rise; (2) reduced sediment load within the Mississippi River; (3) diversion of the sediment load away from the barrier shorelines to the deep shelf; (4) storm-induced erosion; and (5) human alteration of the littoral process through the construction of hardened shorelines, canals, and other activities. This suite of factors has led to the deterioration of the barrier-island systems that protect interior wetlands and human infrastructure from normal wave activity and periodic storm impact. Interior wetland loss results in an increased tidal prism and inlet cross-sectional areas, and expanding ebb-tidal deltas, which removes sand from the littoral processes through diversion and sequestration. Shoreface erosion of the deltaic headlands does not provide sufficient sand to balance the loss, resulting in thinning and dislocation of the islands. Abatement measures include replenishing lost sediment with similar material, excavated from discrete sandy deposits within the muddy delta plain. These sand bodies were deposited by the same cyclical processes that formed the barrier islands, and understanding these processes is necessary to characterize their location, extent, and resource potential. In this paper we demonstrate the dominant fluvial and marine-transgressive depositional processes that occur on the inner shelf, and identify the preservation and resource potential of fluvio-deltaic deposits for coastal management in Louisiana.     

How the tide influences dangerous level rises on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk and adjacent areas in cases of tsunami and storm surges

A long-term sea level series were analyzed, recorded at 12 coastal tide gauges located on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific coast of the Kuril Islands and Kamchatka. Estimates for the maximum heights of the tidal level, storm surges, and tsunamis were obtained separately, as well as for the rare recurrence of the total sea level height with the probability of these individual components superposition. The maximum total height of the sea level without a tsunami were obtained for the Magadan station, where the main factor is anomalously large tides, as well as for Iturup and Matua islands, where the highest storm surges were recorded. The minimum values were obtained for Ust’-Kamchatsk and Malokuril’sk (Shikotan Island) on different flanks of the study area. When a tsunami is included, the maximum values of possible total sea level rises were observed on the Pacific coast of the Kuril Ridge and the influence of tides and meteorologically induced oscillations are small. On the east coast of Kamchatka adjacent to the considered closed area, the role of tsunamis is much smaller. At the Kuril’sk station, where the height of the largest tsunami (Chilean, May 1960) was about a half the strongest surge height, the contribution of the tsunami scarcely affected the resulting estimates. As a rule, the contribution of a tsunami becomes significant at other stations on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk with a recurrence period of 100 years.