Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly-nonlinear waves

Verification tests of linear wave propagation models for cases of waves propagating through a refractive focus typically overpredict peak amplitudes in the vicinity of the focus. Using a parabolic equation model for the combined refraction-diffraction of weakly-nonlinear waves [valid for Ursell number U_r < O(1)], we show that, in a particular experiment, much of the discrepancy between laboratory measurements and linear wave model predictions can be accounted for by including the effect of nonlinearity, which is important in the region of the focus.     

On the parabolic equation method in internal wave propagation

A parabolic equation for the propagation of periodic internal waves over varying bottom topography is derived using the multiple-scale perturbation method. Some computational aspects of the numerical implementation are discussed. The results of numerical experiments on propagation of an incident plane wave over a circular-type shoal are presented in comparison with the analytical result, based on Born approximation.     

Extended KdV equation for transient axisymmetric water waves

The equation for non-linear water waves in shallow water with cylindrical symmetry is established in the form of the Extended KdV (EKdV) equation. The method of solution is based on the Split Step Fourier Algorithm. It is applicable in both directions; that is, given a wave record near the origin, the theory predicts the wave evolution. Similarly, given a wave record at a distance from the origin, the method is able to predict the original wave near the origin. Theory is applied to and verified by transient wave records obtained from underwater explosions and by dropping a large cylindrical plate in very shallow water. The difference between the KdV and the Extended KdV equation is emphasized for small valuev of Ursell parameter.     

弱非线性斯托克斯波在非平整海底上传播的新型抛物型方程

由于缓坡方程计算量大和其本身的缓坡假定而在实际应用中受到了限制,故对斯托克斯波在非平整海底(适用于缓坡和陡坡地形)上传播的Liu和Dingemans的三阶演化方程进行抛物逼近,得到一个新的非线性抛物型方程,它能够包含同类方程未曾考虑的二阶长波效应.通过数值计算结果与Berkhoff等人的经典实验数据的比较,证明所提出的抛物型模型理论具有较高的精度.     

稳恒水波的Fourier近似解研究

A computational method for steady water waves is presented on the basis of potential theory in the physical plane with spatial variables as independent quantities. The finite Fourier series are applied to approximating the free surface and potential function. A set of nonlinear algebraic equations for the Fourier coefficients are derived from the free surface kinetic and dynamic boundary conditions. These algebraic equations are numerically solved through Newton＇s iterative method, and the iterative stability is further improved by a relaxation technology. The integral properties of steady water waves are numerically analyzed, showing that （1） the set-up and the set-down are both non-monotonic quantities with the wave steepness, and （2） the Fourier spectrum of the free surface is broader than that of the potential function. The latter further leads us to explore a modification for the present method by approximating the free surface and potential function through different Fourier series, with the truncation of the former higher than that of the latter. Numerical tests show that this modification is effective, and can notably reduce the errors of the free surface boundary conditions.     

Propagation of shallow water waves in an open parabolic channel using the WKB perturbation technique

A singular perturbation analysis based on the WKB technique to study the hydrodynamic performance of periodic ocean waves that are incident on an open parabolic channel of constant depth is proposed. We derive a linear model to predict the propagation of the long ocean waves into the channel. In this manner, the spatial distribution for the surface elevation of the ocean waves inside the channel as a function of two dimensionless parameters, namely, a kinematical parameter, κ and a geometrical parameter ε, is governed by a second-order ordinary differential equation. The kinematical parameter κ denotes the ratio of the potential head, due to gravity, to the kinetic head of the ocean waves along the longitudinal axis of the parabolic channel. Meanwhile, ε is a dimensionless geometrical parameter that represents a characteristic ratio of the parabolic channel. Using matching conditions, simple expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained.     

Mild-slope equation for water waves propagating over non-uniform currents and uneven bottoms

I~IOXThe interaction between surface waves and ambient currents and nearshore topography lies atone of the heat of morphological medelling. Accurate predictions of how wave propagates overcurrents and topography, and of the consequent erosion and dePOSition of sand on a beach or tidalflat are vital when assessing how a coastline may be affected by changing conditions.The mild-slope equation was introduced by Berkhoff (1972) as a way of approximating therefraction-diffraction of linearized s…     

A method for detecting the breaking of wind-generated waves in deep water

The breaking of wind-generated waves is an important phenomenon in the ocean, having close relation to many aspects of the ocean, such as air-sea interaction, ocean wave dynamics, oceanic remote sensing and ocean engineering. The first problem encountered in both its theoretical study and practical measurement is how to detect the breaking of waves.     

Finite element method for strong reflection of water waves

In this study, the propagation of monochromatic water waves over an arbitrarily varying topography is numerically investigated. A finite element model is developed by formulating the diffraction of waves caused by depth changes. Not only the propagating mode but also the evanescent modes are included in the model. The model developed is applied to the study of strong reflection of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory experiments and the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed.     

基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟近岸植被区波浪传播

植被对波浪传播运动有重要影响。考虑近岸波浪在植被区传播中的折射、绕射、破碎及植被引起的波能耗损效应,基于抛物型缓坡方程建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数学模型,对模型进行了数值模拟验证,采用数值模拟试验分析了植被对波浪传播的影响。数值模拟结果表明,波浪在近岸植被区传播时,随着植被密度和植被高度的增加,波浪传播中的波高衰减增大,波能耗损增加;不同周期波浪在植被区传播中的波高衰减过程也明显不同。     

考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程

在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上,对这种模型进行了改进,改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外,加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明,在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致,在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用,将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。     

Numerical modeling of water waves with the SPH method

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) is a relatively new method for examining the propagation of highly nonlinear and breaking waves. At Johns Hopkins University, we have been working since 2000 to develop an engineering tool using this technique. However, there have been some difficulties in taking the model from examples using a small number of particles to more elaborate and better resolved cases.Several improvements that we have implemented are presented here to handle turbulence, the fluid viscosity and density, and a different time-stepping algorithm is used. The final model is shown to be able to model breaking waves on beaches in two and three dimensions, green water overtopping of decks, and wave–structure interaction.     

Extended mild-slope equation for random waves

A time-dependent extended mild-slope equation is derived from the elliptic equation of Chamberlain and Porter [J. Fluid Mech. 291 (1995) 393] using the Taylor series technique. Numerical tests are made on a horizontally one-dimensional case for regular waves over sloping beds and for both regular and irregular waves over a ripple patch. Numerical results prove that the proposed model gives accurate results for both regular and irregular waves over rapidly varying topography.     

Source generation of nonlinear gravity waves with the boundary integral equation method

The source generation of nonlinear gravity waves in a boundary integral method is reported. Through a number of computational results it is demonstrated that virtually any type of two-dimensional wave field can be generated. It is furthermore shown that scattered waves can pass through the line of generation without significant reflection and that the process of generation is not affected by the scattered waves.     

A parabolic equation for wave propagation over porous structures

A parabolic wave model was developed to simulate wave transformation over porous structures in the surf zone including wave-breaking and energy dissipation. This model is verified through experimental data for waves passing over a submerged permeable structure with porosities. The numerical results have shown good agreement with the results of laboratory experiments. The model is also applied to the real case of waves propagating over a porous submerged breakwater on a complicated bathymetry.     

Inverse modeling of discrete interaction approximations for nonlinear interactions in wind waves

In the last two decades, the Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) has been the only economically feasible parameterization for nonlinear wave–wave interactions in operational wind wave models. Its major drawback is its limited accuracy. Several improvements to the DIA have been suggested recently. The present study summarizes these improvements and suggests some new modifications to the DIA. Using inverse modeling techniques, where the potential of various DIAs is assessed by optimal fitting to exact solutions, a comprehensive comparison of the potential of several such improvements is made. An in depth analysis of the behavior of DIAs in full wave models will be the subject of a second study, to be reported elsewhere. The major findings of this study are that: (i) An expanded definition of the representative quadruplet with additional degrees of freedom is necessary for an accurate representation of the exact interactions; (ii) Slowly varying the free parameters in such a DIA as a function of the spectral frequency f results in a (mostly qualitative) improvement; (iii) A DIA with expanded quadruplet definition and with four representative quadruplets is found to reproduce the exact source term accurately; (iv) Adding additional tunable constants to the equation for the strength of the interactions has little impact on the quality of the DIA.     

Five-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves

A kinetic equation for the spectrum of random surface gravity waves, describing the spectral energy transfer over the spectrum, due to the combined effects of four- and five-wave weakly non-linear interactions has been developed. Equation kernels are given in the explicit form for a fluid of finite depth. It is noted that five-wave interactions break the wave conservation law inherent to the four-wave kinetic equation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography

In this paper, following the procedure outlined by Li (1994. An evolution equation for water waves. Coastal Engineering, 23, 227-242) and Hsu and Wen (2000. A study of using parabolic model to describe wave breaking and wide-angle wave incidence. Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers, 23(4), 515–527) and Hsu and Wen (2000) the extended refraction–diffraction equation is recasted into a time-dependent parabolic equation. This model, which includes higher-order bottom effect terms, is extended to account for a rapidly varying topography and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. The importance of the higher-order bottom effect terms is examined in terms of the relative water depth. The present model was tested for wave reflection in a number of different environments, namely from a plane slope with different inclinations, from a patch of periodic ripples. The model was also tested for wave height distribution around a circular shoal and wave breaking on a barred beach. The comparison of predictions with other numerical models and experimental data show that the validity of the present model for describing wave propagation over a rapidly varying seabed is satisfactory.