Wave-induced water table fluctuations,sediment transport and beach profile change: Modeling and comparison with large-scale laboratory experiments

Coastal groundwater systems can have a considerable impact on sediment transport and foreshore evolution in the surf and swash zones. Process-based modeling of wave motion on a permeable beach taking into account wave-aquifer interactions was conducted to investigate the effects of the unconfined coastal aquifer on beach profile evolution, and wave shoaling on the water table. The simulation first dealt with wave breaking and wave runup/rundown in the surf and swash zones. Nearshore hydrodynamics and wave propagation in the cross-shore direction were simulated by solving numerically the two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model and the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. The hydrodynamic model was coupled to a groundwater flow model based on SEAWAT-2000, the latter describing groundwater flow in the unconfined coastal aquifer. The combined model enables the simulation of wave-induced water table fluctuations and the effects of infiltration/exfiltration on nearshore sediment transport. Numerical results of the coupled ocean/aquifer simulations were found to compare well with experimental measurements. Wave breaking and infiltration/exfiltration increase the hydraulic gradient across the beachface and enhance groundwater circulation inside the porous medium. The large hydraulic head gradient in the surf zone leads to infiltration across the beachface before the breaking point, with exfiltration taking place below the breaking point. In the swash zone, infiltration occurs at the upper part of the beach and exfiltration at the lower part. The simulations confirm that beaches with a low water table tend to be accreted while those with a high water table tend to be eroded.     

Influence of bathymetric fluctuations on coastal storm surge

Natural events constantly alter nearshore bathymetric properties. Hurricanes particularly affect bathymetry as they pass over a body of water. To compute an accurate forecast or recreate a hurricane's effects through hindcasting techniques, an operational bathymetry data set must be known in advance. However, obtaining and maintaining current and accurate bathymetric data can be costly and difficult to manage. In this paper we examine the extent to which variations in nearshore bathymetry affect the storm surge at the coast. A common question for wave and surge modeling is, “how good is the bathymetric data?” If we can allow for a range of fluctuations in the bathymetry without significantly adjusting the results of the surge predictions, we can potentially save months of field work and millions of dollars. A one-dimensional (1D) analytical solution for waves and water level is developed for initial testing. In the 1D case we find that as long as the amplitudes of the bathymetric fluctuations are less than 60% of the original depth, the surge at the coast is within ± 10% of the surge generated on the initial bottom slope. If the fluctuation produces a hole, a deepening of the local bathymetry, within 80% of the local water depth, the coastal storm surge calculated is still within 10% of the unperturbed value computed for bottom slopes shallower than 1:20. In addition, we find there is an optimum distance offshore for each sloped profile that corresponds to a depth between 25 and 40 m, beyond which the effects of bathymetric fluctuations begin to decrease. A coupled 2D modeling system is implemented to test our hypothesis along a realistic coastline. After selecting three study sites, we vary the bathymetry at the selected locations by ± 20%. Consistent with the 1D tests, the storm surge at the shoreline varies by less than 5%.     

典型海湾风暴潮增水特征与机理研究

以三门湾为例,基于经验模态分解方法 (EMD)将原始风暴潮增水过程进行分解,并对各个子模态进行能量谱分析,研究每种波动对应的生成机制。结果表明:半封闭海湾内的风暴潮增水较为严重,造成三门湾内强增水的台风为三门湾南侧的西北向登陆台风。EMD分解结果显示三门湾内的风暴潮增水包含6 h,12 h,20 h左右的波动,其中6 h左右的波动来源于海湾共振,共振的频率是由海湾的形状、水深等固有性质所决定的。12 h的波动是由于天文潮与风暴潮耦合作用导致,20 h左右的波动是由于台风移动过程中外海波动的传入。结果表明EMD方法为风暴潮波动增水特征的精细认知提供了一种新的思路和方法,可以加深对海湾内风暴潮波动增水特征的研究。     

一次典型寒潮风暴潮过程的数值模拟研究

建立了渤海及邻近海域天文潮与风暴潮的耦合模型。在验证的基础上,以2003年10月寒潮为例,分析了寒潮作用下渤海沿岸的增、减水及潮流场的时空分布变化特征。结果表明,寒潮作用下渤海湾沿岸增水幅度较大,水位振荡明显;潮流运动发生较大改变,局部海域的往复流转化为单向流,可能会影响渤海湾沿岸泥沙的运动。     

The hydrodynamic coefficients for an oscillating rectangular structure on a free surface with sidewall

Based on a two dimensional linear water wave theory, the boundary element method (BEM) is developed and applied to study the heave and the sway problem of a floating rectangular structure in water to finite depth with one side of the boundary is a vertical sidewall and the other boundary is an open boundary. Numerical results for the added mass and radiation damping coefficients are presented. These coefficients are not only depend on the submergence and the width of the structure, but also depend on the clearance between structure and sidewall. Negative added mass and sharp peaks in the damping and added mass coefficients have been found when the clearance with a value close to integral times of half wave length of wave generated by oscillation structure. The important effect of the clearance on the added mass and radiation damping coefficients are discussed in detail. An analytical solution method is also presented. The BEM solution is compared with the analytical solution, and the comparison shows good agreement.     

海平面上升对北部湾风暴潮增水影响研究——以 2012 年台风“山神”为例

全球变暖引发的海平面上升将加剧风暴潮增水,进而危及沿海经济发展与社会安全保障。本文基于模型耦合与模型嵌套技术构建北部湾台风风暴潮数值模拟系统,以2012年台风"山神"为天气背景,通过设计7组情景模拟研究未来不同海平面上升背景下北部湾风暴潮增水变化。结果表明:风暴潮期间水位从南向北沿北部湾逐渐涌高,最高水位发生在广西沿岸,达2.4 m以上。天文潮和台风风场拖曳力是形成高水位的主要驱动力,其中天文大潮和最大风场拖曳力对最高水位的贡献率分别约占70%和30%。海平面上升对风暴潮增水的影响具有时空非线性和非均一性特征。其中,潮位波动和波-流耦合效应会改变实际最大增水发生时间,导致钦州湾附近高潮位大致提前1天半,海平面上升1.1 m使得最大风暴潮增水大致提前30 min;未来海平面上升0.66～1.1 m将导致北部湾大部分海域风暴潮增水幅度放大6%～10%,广西沿岸钦州湾和大风江河口出现负增加效应,可能与溺谷海湾地形特征有关。研究结果可为未来北部湾沿岸防御风暴潮灾害提供理论依据。     

An alternating direction implicit (ADI) numerical model for two-dimensional hydrodynamic equations

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Short-term responses to sewage discharge and storms of subtidal sand-bottom macrozoobenthic assemblages off Mar del Plata City, Argentina (SW Atlantic)

This work describes short-term responses of sandy-bottom infaunal macrobenthic communities to environmental disturbances, such as episodic storms and the intertidal sewage discharge of the Mar del Plata City (38° S, 57° W, Argentina). Sewage discharge increases by up to 60% every summer due to tourism pressure. Episodic storms affect the area during autumn-winter and arguably have a cleaning effect on the water and sediment quality. Quantitative data on benthic communities (based on Van Veen grab samples), water and sediment variables were obtained in November 1999 and March 2000. During March the sampling was carried out before and after a storm. Parametric and non- parametric tests showed highly significant differences in both environmental (pH, dissolved oxygen, salinity, temperature, grain size and total organic carbon of sediments) and biological data (species distribution and abundances, density, species number, diversity and evenness), reflecting changes that might be related to increasing sewage discharge between November and March, and to storm effects of March. High values of pH and dissolved oxygen, including a slight stratification in the water column, as well as high values of mean grain size and total organic carbon were observed in March with the increasing sewage volume. Nevertheless, diversity and evenness showed low values, but higher density. The ratio crustacean/polychaetes + molluscs also showed low values compared to November data. Maldanid polychaetes (indicator of low content of organic matter in sediments) dominated in November, but they were replaced by the polychaete Prionospio spp. (indicator of organic enrichment in subtidal areas) and the tanaidacean Kalliapseudes schubarti in March. Before the storm event, values of both environmental and biological data returned to relatively normal conditions, but without reaching the November values, reflecting the disturbance produced by a moderate northern storm. In spite of an inappropriate replication in time, the present results strongly suggest that these changes were related to both sewage disturbance and storm effects. These data are in agreement with and explain the pattern observed in shallow-shelf benthic communities of the SW Atlantic. Implications for environmental management and decision making are discussed, because a pulse disturbance (storms) becomes a press disturbance, keeping the environment healthy in spite of strong pressure and pulse sewage-disturbances.     

上海邻近海域风暴潮数据同化与特征分析

风暴潮是一种复杂的对众多因素敏感又备受关注的海洋现象。本文基于协方差局地化的集合卡尔曼滤波方法（EnKF）,选择201810号台风“安比”登陆上海的风暴潮过程,首次将海洋站和FVCOM数值模拟的不同来源、不同误差信息、不同时空分辨率的风暴潮进行数据同化融合,获得了逐72 h的上海海域风暴潮的最优解,进行了同化结果评估验证,并给出了集合样本数和Schur半径设置范围。结果表明,实测计算和数值模拟的风暴增减水之间均方根误差为0.20 m,实测和同化计算的风暴增减水之间均方根误差为0.07 m,准确度提高了65%;独立观测和同化计算的风暴增减水均方根误差为0.09 m,集合离散度与均方根误差比值为0.90,同化效果较好且可信;同化后的风暴增减水能够较好地刻画双峰增水、台风眼增水、增水锋面等特征,对于风暴潮研究、数值模拟结果订正、海洋防灾减灾等有重要意义。     

Landward limit of wind setup on beaches

Open coast storm surge water levels consist of a wind shear forcing component generally referred to as wind setup; a wave setup component caused by wind-induced waves transferring momentum to the water column; an atmospheric pressure head component due to the atmospheric pressure deficit over the spatial extent of the storm system; a Coriolis-forced component due to effects of the rotation of the earth acting on the wind-driven alongshore current at the coast; and, if astronomical tides are present, an astronomical tide component. Astronomical tide is considered to be predictable and, therefore, not a meteorological driven component of storm surge although there may be interaction between the tide and meteorological driven water levels. Typically the most important component of storm surge on the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shorelines is the wind setup component. The importance of inland flooding due to the wind setup component of storm surge is considered herein with special reference to the effect of subaerial slope on inland flooding where three different linear slopes are considered and storm surge is calculated for the region above still water level, using an analytic solution. The present study findings show that the inland storm surge from the wind setup component can be of considerable importance and lead to significantly higher storm surges than found for storm surge at the still water level intersection of the beach/land. It is shown that mild slopes can lead to very high water levels at the land–water interface (i.e. above the still water level intersection of the beach).     

Tracking historical storm records from high-barrier lagoon deposits on the southeastern coast of Hainan Island,China

The relationship between storm activity and global warming remains uncertain. To better understand storm–climate relationships, coastal lagoon deposits are increasingly being investigated because they could provide high-resolution storm records long enough to cover past climate changes. However, site-specific sediment dynamics and high barriers may bias storm reconstructions. Here, we aimed to investigate these factors through the reconstruction of five distinct storm records (XCL-01, XC-03, XC-06, XC-07, XC-08) from different water depths in a lagoon with a high barrier (i.e., Xincun Lagoon of Hainan Island). Sediment cores were characterized using high-resolution grain size and XRF measurements, to identify storm events. These data were coupled with a numerical simulation to obtain bed shear stress data with high-spatial resolution to better understand storm-induced sediment transport mechanisms. 210Pb dating and Pb pollution chronostratigraphic markers indicated that the chronology of the storm deposit sequences of the cores span the period between 117 a and 348 a. The grain size and XRF results indicated numerous, highly variable and short-duration fluctuations, suggesting that storm-induced coarse-grained sediments were deposited at these core sites. The inconsistent storm events recorded in these cores suggest that these sites have different preservation potentials for storm deposits. However, the consistence between storm sediment records and historical documents for Core XCL-01 indicates that high-barrier lagoons could provide long-term storm event records with high preservation potential.     

The Transient Solution of Plane Progressive Waves

- Generated by an ideal sinusoidal motion of the vertical plate, the simplest linear solution in time domain for two-dimensional regular waves is derived. The solution describes the propagation process of the plane progressive wave with a front, and will approach the linear steady- state solution as the oscillation time of the plate approaches infinity. The solution presented in this paper can be used to provide an incident wave model with analytical expression for solving the problems of diffraction and response of floating bodies in time domain.     

海南岛博鳌港洪水过程模拟

采用一个包括陆地淡水径流和风暴潮影响的模型计算了海南省博鳌港的洪水水位。模型中的外海潮汐考虑K^1和O^1分潮，风暴增水和河流流量的变化过程采用峰值函数的形式模拟，取得了与实测结果相近的计算结果。模拟实验表明，洪水水位峰值与河流洪峰流量，风暴增水峰值，系统的过水断面形状以及洪水历时的长短等因素有关。对于博鳌港口门通航条件整治，采用复合的梯形过水断面最为合适，因为相对于天然的口门过水断面，复合梯形断面能使湾内的最高洪水水位下降约20％。     

北海市沿岸风暴潮特征研究

根据1965—2009年间影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋资料和风暴增水资料,进行统计分析北海市沿岸的风暴潮特征。结果表明:北海市沿岸平均每年发生风暴增水2—3次,其中较大以上强度的风暴增水每年0.87次,严重以上强度的风暴增水每3年有一次;北海市沿岸每年4—11月均有可能发生风暴增水,且集中在7—10月,尤以9月最多。影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋主要以西北行路径为主,且多是穿过雷州半岛或海南岛后在越南沿海登陆,此种情况下,风暴增水曲线表现为周期性波动。另外,本文还采用Pearson-Ⅲ分布和Gumbel分布来估算风暴增水频度,得出北海市沿岸不同重现期的高潮位值。     

Comparison of four numerical models for simulating seepage from salt marsh sediments

A boundary integral equation method (BIEM) model and three differently formulated finite element method (FEM) models were implemented to explore the spatial and temporal patterns in marsh pore water seepage that each generated. The BIEM model is based on the Laplace equation coupled to a dynamic free-surface condition that assumes that, as the water-table changes, the aquifer instantaneously loses or gains an amount of water equal to the change in head times the specific yield. The FEM models all implement a simplified Richards equation that allows gradual desaturation or resaturation and thus flow in both the saturated and unsaturated zones of the aquifer. Two of the FEM models are based on the governing equation for the USGS model SUTRA and thus take into account fluid and aquifer compressibility. One of these was modified to take into account the effect of tidal loading on the total stress, which is assumed to be constant in the derivation of the original version of SUTRA. The third FEM model assumes that neither the fluid or aquifer matrix is compressible so that changes in storage are due solely to changes in saturation. The unmodified SUTRA model generated instantaneous boundary fluxes that were up to two orders of magnitude greater, and spatially more uniform, than those of the other models. The FEM model without compressibility generated spatial and temporal patterns of the boundary fluxes very similar to those produced by the BIEM model. The SUTRA model with the tidal stress modification gave fluxes similar in magnitude to the BIEM and no compressibility models but with distinctly different distributions in space and time. These results indicate that accurate simulation of seepage from marsh soils is highly sensitive to aquifer compressibility and to proper formulation of the effect of tidal loading on the total stress in the aquifer. They also suggest that accurate simulation may require total stress correction not only for tidal loading but for changes in the water table as well. Finally, to aid the development of methods for the measurement of compressibility, we present a schematic, pore-scale model to illustrate the factors that may govern the compressibility of marsh soils.     

计算域的选取对风暴潮数值模拟的影响

作者以 72 0 3号台风过程中引起的黄海沿岸水文测站的风暴潮过程为例 ,选取不同计算域 ,模拟计算的同一测站的风暴潮增水值有很大差异。只有选取整个黄渤海海域 ,才能得到较精确的风暴潮增水结果。从而揭示在封闭或半封闭海域中由风暴过程激发的区域自由振荡 ,是风暴潮增水中不容忽视的量。说明该海域中的风暴潮过程是海域整体效应的响应 ,因此认为数值模拟中计算域应选取整个封闭或半封闭海域     

浅水分潮对海岸潮致地下水波动特征的影响

基于一维Boussinesq方程,在斜坡海岸边界条件中考虑了半日潮及其浅水分潮的综合作用,应用摄动法得到了方程的二阶解。通过与现场实测资料和数值解的比较,分析了浅水分潮对海岸潮致地下水波动特征的影响。分析结果显示,考虑浅水分潮后,方程数值解能较好地反映实测的潮致地下水波动基本特征;方程各阶摄动解虽与现场实测数据有一定误差,但基本上能反映其波动的趋势性特征。研究结果表明,浅水分潮对海岸潮致地下水波动振幅及其超高值的影响比较显著,也能较好地改善相位上的偏移,因此在对海岸潮致地下水波动特征进行研究分析时,应该考虑浅水分潮的作用。     

Variation in groundwater salinity in a tidal salt marsh basin,North Inlet Estuary,South Carolina

Groundwater flow of freshwater from upland forests into salt marshes is influenced by hydrologic forces that operate over a wide range of temporal scales, including storm events, tidal fluctuations, seasonal variations in rainfall and evapotranspiration (ET). Groundwater salinity can be a useful first order indicator of the balance between these flow processes. A dipole-dipole electrical resistivity survey was conducted approximately monthly during 2005 to measure groundwater salinity across a portion of Crabhaul Creek, a tidal salt marsh basin at the boundary of the upland forest and the North Inlet marsh in South Carolina. The monthly electrical resistivity surveys were designed to provide a detailed, spatially continuous measurement of subsurface conductivity to a depth of 4 m in order to further investigate the seasonal variation in groundwater salinity. Resistivity models were corroborated by simultaneous measurements of salinity in nearby piezometers. The freshwater-brackish water interface was clearly imaged by the resistivity. Movement of this interface occurs on a timescale of months rather than a regular seasonal variation. The average salinity in the marsh basin is highest in late Summer (July–August) when ET is highest, and lowest during the Winter (November–December). The position of the brackish-freshwater interface changes, but is not well correlated to local rainfall or tidal cycles except under specific circumstances. A steady-state hydrological model correctly predicts the average position of the freshwater-brackish interface and suggests a linear relationship between the height of the water table and the location of the interface. These results suggest a complex relationship between precipitation events and groundwater flow from the forest into the marsh.     

基于无结构网格有限体积法的风暴潮数值预报模式

基于无结构三角单元网格和有限体积法,建立了一个高精度高分辨率的风暴潮二维数值预报模式。该模式采用对岸线有较强拟合能力的无结构网格对求解区域进行离散,采用藤田公式和宫崎正卫风场模式模拟气压场和风场。由于台风暴潮在近岸地区受底部地形的影响,可能引起非线性较强的波动,从而产生陡度大的波面,因此模式中利用Roe的通量函数给出守恒方程的无粘性通量。针对复杂的海底地形,对模式专门进行了通量梯度项与源项的平衡。应用此模型模拟和预报珠江口地区的风暴潮增水,取得了较满意的结果。