潮滩上波高的时空变化及其影响因素——以长江三角洲海岸为例

于2009—2010年的不同季节在崇明东滩北部、中部、南部以及杭州湾北岸东段的芦潮港岸段,利用目前先进的SBE 26plus浪潮仪进行了多个潮周期的波浪观测。研究表明,观测期间潮周期平均风速为1.9～11.0m/s、最大风速为2.8～12.1m/s,各测点潮周期平均水深为0.28～2.12m,高潮位最大水深为0.37～3.19m,潮周期有效波高为0.03～0.45m,最大波高为0.08～1.59m。波高的时空变化受风速、风向、水深和岸滩坡度的综合影响。通常情况下,向岸风期间的波浪较大;风速、水深、岸滩坡度越大,潮滩上的波高也越大。空间上,岸滩坡度最小的崇明东滩中部(坡度0.6‰)测点波高和水深之间的相关性最好,岸滩坡度最大的芦潮港潮滩(坡度8.7‰)测点两者间的相关性最差。时间上,波高和水深之间的相关性与风速、风向的变化有关。因此,只有在潮滩坡度较小(例如<1‰),风速、风向较为稳定时,波高和水深之间的显著正相关关系才存在。要了解某个潮滩的波浪特征,有必要利用先进的仪器进行系统的原位观测,而非简单地借助其它潮滩的波浪研究结果。研究推断,在向岸强台风和大潮高潮位阶段,崇明东滩中潮线附近的最大波高可达1.5～2.0m,芦潮港堤外潮滩的最大波高可达2m以上。     

Extreme wave crest distribution by direct numerical simulations of long-crested nonlinear wave fields

The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth k_ph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height.     

随机波浪中畸形波在三维岛礁地形上的试验研究

在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素H_m/H_s（H_m表示波列中的最大波高, H_s为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高H_fr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>H_m/H_s呈正相关, H_fr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。     

珊瑚岛礁孤立波爬坡的平面二维数值模拟研究

为了探究岛屿周围珊瑚礁在抵御海啸灾害中的作用,采用激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型FUNWAVE-TVD,对孤立波在理想化三维岛礁地形上的传播及爬坡开展了现场尺度的平面二维数值模拟,分析了入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、礁前斜坡坡度、礁后斜坡坡度、珊瑚礁糙率对岛屿四周孤立波爬高分布的影响。结果表明,珊瑚礁的存在总体上可有效降低岛屿四周孤立波的最大爬坡高度;入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、珊瑚礁糙率是影响珊瑚岛礁四周孤立波爬坡分布的主要因素,岛礁四周最大爬坡高度会随入射波高和礁坪水深的增大、礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率的减小而不断增大;当礁坪水深增大到一定程度时,珊瑚礁主要会对岛屿背浪面的爬高失去影响,而当礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率减小至一定程度时,会出现岛礁四周最大爬高高于无珊瑚礁时爬高的现象;礁后斜坡的变缓会使岛礁周围的最大爬高有所减小,而礁前斜坡坡度对珊瑚岛礁周围的最大爬高几乎没有影响。     

Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes

Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.     

秋茄（Kandelia obovata）和无瓣海桑（Sonneratia apetala）红树人工林消波效应量化研究

采用野外监测的方法对海南东寨港三江湾秋茄和无瓣海桑红树人工林的消波效应进行了量化研究。结果表明,裸露海滩的消波作用较弱,波浪在经过裸滩50m后,1/10波高、1/3波高和平均波高分别减低2.9%、4.4%和5.8%。红树林的消波作用显著,总体来说,波浪在经过秋茄林50m后,1/10波高、1/3波高和平均波高分别减低46...     

Wave-induced Benthic Velocity Variations in Shallow Waters

Waves propagating from deep water into shallow coastal areas produce oscillatory currents near the sea bottom. The magnitude of these currents depend upon the period and amplitude of the incoming waves, and the dissipation mechanism such as wave breaking and bottom friction. Field experiments in a gently shoaling bay, i.e. Cleveland Bay, Northern Australia, showed that there is a broad band of water at around 6 m depth, where the benthic surge velocities are maximum. Both further inshore and offshore, the bottom velocities were less than at 6 m depth, contrary to the normal expectation that the velocities should increase as the water becomes shallower. A new and computationally efficient wave model was developed and was able to reproduce experimental results for waves above 50 cm wave height, but not for small waves (wave height about 30 cm). One implication of this higher band of benthic surge velocities may be to produce high water turbidities in this region. Turbidity data from Cleveland Bay is consistent with this hypothesis.     

波浪作用下大尺径圆柱周围局部冲刷

通过系列模型试验，对波浪作用下墩柱周围局部冲刷地形及其形成机理进行了分析，认为最大冲刷深度发生在墩柱前方，与防波堤前冲淤形态类似，分为细沙型和粗沙型。在对各影响因子分析基础上，提出墩柱周围最大冲刷深度计算公式，试验资料表明，该公式与试验值有着良好的一致性。     

Short-term statistics of waves measured off Ratnagiri,eastern Arabian Sea

The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area.     

The limiting wave height in wind-induced wave trains

The vertical acceleration threshold concept has been applied to evaluate the limiting wave height in the train of wind-induced waves propagated over a horizontal bottom. This concept yields very simple computation of the probability of breaking for stochastic sea in deep and finite water depths. The computations confirmed the available field and laboratory observations that the limiting wave steepness in the deep water is lower than the steepness predicted by Stokes. For shallow water depth, the limiting wave height is smaller than 0.55h. This conclusion is consistent with field as well as wave tank observations.     

印尼ADIPALA海域较长周期波浪统计特征分析

对印尼ADIPALA海岸观测的较长周期波浪数据进行了统计分析,给出了不同统计波高特征值之间的关系以及统计特征周期和相对水深的关系;并就波浪统计中的波高分布,采用威布尔分布形式进行拟合,得到波高累积分布;给出了最大波高计算公式,可为工程设计提供参考。     

Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealised two dimensional horizontal reef

Wave set-up may be significant in determining water levels on coral reefs particularly in microtidal environments and hence is an important factor for the design of reef-top structures and for the stability of reef-top islands. Laboratory experiments have been made on a two dimensional model of an idealised horizontal reef under two different conditions corresponding to a fringing reef (or closed lagoon) situation and a platform reef (or open lagoon) situation. Both wave set-up on the reef-top and the wave-generated flow across the reef were measured and related to wave and tide level conditions.All other factors being the same, wave set-up is greatest at low tide levels whereas wave-generated flow is greater at higher tide levels. The magnitude of the set-up on a platform reef with a wave-generated flow is less than on a fringing reef without any net flow by an amount equal to the velocity head of the flow across the reef. Dimensionless parameters and q/√gH_o³ are found to be functions of relative submergence parameters h_r/H_o or . For values of ( ) H_o > 1 waves break on the reef-top and radiation stress theory can be used to calculate set-up. For ( )H_o < 0.7 waves break on the reef-face and set-up is determined by broadcrested weir control at the reef-edge. (The symbols are defined as follows: g is gravitational acceleration; h_r is still water depth over horizontal reef-top; H_o is offreef wave height (equivalent deep water value); q is discharge per unit length of reef edge; T is wave period and is maximum wave set-up on reef-top.)     

Experimental study on the performance of twin plate breakwater

The wave transmission characteristics and wave induced pressures on twin plate breakwater are investigated experimentally in regular and random waves.A total of twenty pressure transducers are fixed on four surfaces of twin plate to measure the wave induced dynamic pressures.The spatial distribution of dynamic wave pressure is given along the surface of the twin plate.The uplift wave force obtained by integrating the hydrodynamic pressure along the structure is presented.Discussed are the influence of different incident wave parameters including the relative plate width B /L,relative wave height /i H a and relative submergence depth s /a on the non-dimensional dynamic wave pressures and total wave forces.From the investigation,it is found that the optimum transmission coefficient,t K occurs around B /L 0.41 ~ 0.43,and the twin plate breakwater is more effective in different water depths.The maximum of pressure ratio decreases from 1.8 to 1.1 when the relative submergence depth of top plate is increased from 0.8to +0.8.     

孤立波特性的实验室模拟

孤立波是浅海水域中经常出现的一种波动现象,常用来描述海啸和风暴等引起的巨浪以及波长较长的表面波的某些特性。采用"水体瞬间坍塌"的方法产生孤立波,在二维波浪水槽内进行系列实验。实验结果表明,产生的孤立波波高与水深之比可达1.29;箱体宽度及箱内水体高度对波高影响较大;得到孤立波波高计算公式,可较好地反映孤立波波高与箱体宽度、水深和箱内水体高度之间的变化关系,并给出了公式的适用范围。     

台风作用下的港湾型潮滩沉积过程 以2008年“凤凰”台风对福建省罗源湾的影响为例

通过对"凤凰"台风的现场观测和沉积物样品的分析,结果表明,在台风影响下潮水淹没时间增长,增水达1.1 m;台风期间互花米草盐沼内流速变化较复杂,而且盐沼内部流速大于盐沼边缘的;台风期间盐沼边缘潮周期平均悬沙含量是台风前2 d的7倍;台风期间十分之一波高最大为1.54 m。滩面重复测量结果显示,台风登陆期间整个光滩滩面都发生了侵蚀,盐沼内部有部分地区发生侵蚀,侵蚀深度为4.5~5.5 cm,盐沼边缘的侵蚀深度仅为0.7 cm,侵蚀原因主要是植被在风浪作用下从根部折断,从而带走了滩面的沉积物;随着台风强度的减弱,整个滩面均接受悬沙沉降;台风带来的强降雨是影响滩面沉积物活动的重要因素。     

Field experiment on secondary wave generation on a barred beach and the consequent evolution of energy dissipation on the beach face

A field experiment, conducted on a sandy, barred beach situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the formation of secondary waves when a moderate (significant wave height of about 0.8 m in 3.7-m water depth), long (11–14 s) narrowband swell propagated over an intertidal ridge and runnel system, in both breaking and nonbreaking conditions. Field evidence using higher spectral analysis is given for the sum interactions between pairs of waves at the primary spectral peak and the consequent energy transfer to nearly harmonic wave components. Although wave breaking appears to weaken the strength of nonlinear couplings, the generation of high-frequency energy is hardly affected by wave breaking. The phenomenon of harmonic decoupling, which takes place behind the bar, cannot be completely ascribed to the increase in water depth and the so-called deshoaling effect. Indeed, the variation in the values of the maximum bicoherence was very moderate when no breaking occurred. Finally, the doubling in the number of wave crests and the consequent decrease in the significant wave period delay the energy dissipation on the beach face.     

Wave forces on, and water-surface fluctuations around a vertical cylinder encircled by a perforated square caisson

The wave forces and moments on and the water surface fluctuations around a vertical circular cylinder encircled by a perforated square caisson were experimentally investigated. The porosity of the outer square caisson was varied from 4.24 to 14.58%. The in-line wave forces on the inner vertical cylinder are influenced by changing the porosity of the outer caisson, whereas the variations in the water surface fluctuations are less influenced in this porosity range. The in-line moment on the vertical cylinder is relatively less sensitive when the porosity is increased from 4.24 to 8.75%, but varies substantially when it is increased from 8.75 to 14.58%. The force and moment ratio (i.e. the ratio of the force or moment on the vertical cylinder, when it is encircled by the perforated caisson to the force or moment on the cylinder without any protection around it) reduces with increased wave height, H, and wave length, L, whereas the wave height ratio (ratio of the wave height at a point in the vicinity of the structure to the incident wave height) is less sensitive for the varying H and L. A new non-dimensional parameter, p^1.5 (D/L)/(H/d), is introduced to predict the in-line force and moment on the inner vertical cylinder, where d is local water depth, D is the diameter of the inner cylinder and p is the porosity of the outer caisson in percentage. Simple predictive equations for forces, moments and water surface fluctuations are provided.     

Sub aerial random wave pressure and layer thickness on impermeable sea walls

Investigations on sub aerial wave pressures and layer thickness on plane impermeable and non-overtopping seawallns were carried out by using physical model studies. Seawalls with slopes of 1:3, 1:4 and 1:6 were used. JONSWAP spectrum with significant wave height, H_s from 0.08 to 0.2 m and peak periods, T_p from 1.5 to 6.0 s and a constant water depth of 0.7 m is used. Based on extensive measurements, empirical formulas for practical applications are proposed to predict the maximum, significant and mean sub aerial random wave pressure and layer thickness (thickness of water layer perpendicular to the still water level on the run-up zone) by using the surf similarity parameter, significant wave height and elevation on the sub aerial region as inputs. It is found that the maximum layer thickness is 1.11 times the significant layer thickness and maximum sub Arial wave pressure is 1.06 times the significant wave pressures. The predictive equations based on extensive measurements can be used for the design of non-overtopping seawalls.     

波浪作用下粉土海床中的孔压响应试验研究

海床在波浪作用下是否稳定对海底工程的安全至关重要,海床的稳定性与土体中的孔压响应密切相关。水槽模拟试验表明:在波浪的作用下,黄河三角洲粉土海床中将产生振荡孔隙水压力和累积孔隙水压力。振荡孔隙水压力大小与土层深度、波高和粘粒含量有关,其振幅(能量)在土层中随深度的增加呈指数衰减,且粘粒含量越高衰减越快;加载波高越大,能量衰减越快。而累积孔压响应模式表现为在波浪作用最初的一段时间内,孔隙水压力快速上升,然后逐渐减小而趋于稳定,其大小和速率也与波高、粘粒含量、土层埋深有关,粘粒含量越高,孔压累积速度越低。     

Local Scour Around Piles Under Wave Action

The model tests are performed with regular waves, and the effect of wave height, wave period, water depth, sediment size and pile diameter is evaluated. The shape and size of local scour around piles are studied. There are three typical scour patterns due to wave action. It is found that a relationship exists between the erosion depth and the wave number. An empirical formula of the maximum local scour is thus derived.