A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

A wave-resolving model for nearshore suspended sediment transport

This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.     

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Numerical study on wave-induced filtration flow across the beach face and its effects on swash zone sediment transport

A numerical model, coupling an analysis of beach groundwater flow with an analysis of swash wave motion over a uniform slope, is presented. Model calculations are performed to investigate the variations of swash-induced filtration flows across the beach face for different input parameters. Swash zone sediment transport under the influence of such filtration flow across the beach face is investigated through modification of effective weight of sediment particle and modification of swash boundary layer thickness. These effects are quantified based on a bed load transport model with a modified Shields parameter.     

Combined numerical model of currents, waves, and sediment transport in Lake Donuzlav

We present a numerical model of the dynamics of Lake Donuzlav, which enables one to perform simultaneous numerical analyses of the currents, sea level, waves, and sediment transport. The model is based on the hydrodynamic block and the spectral wave model. For typical storm situations, we study the specific features of the integral circulation of waters and the three-dimensional structure of currents, investigate the wind-induced wave fields, and evaluate the flows of sediments and deformations of the bottom. The presence of intense eddy structures is revealed in the field of currents caused by the bottom topography. A significant intensification of waves in the south part of the lake is established in the case of penetration of storm waves through the strait. It is shown that the account of waves leads to qualitative changes in the structure of circulation in the lake and to the formation of well-pronounced areas of wave-induced elevations and lowerings of the sea level. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 43–65, March–April, 2006.     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

粤东后江湾近岸带风-浪-流联合作用下的泥沙输运

在现场观测资料分析基础上,应用波-流联合输沙模型,对粤东后江岬间海湾近岸带净环流、泥沙输运作用加以模拟分析,结果表明,东北东向风是形成近岸西南向净环流的主要驱动力,波浪控制了海底泥沙再悬浮和底质推移输运的过程,从而形成海湾海底地形以东北部侵蚀为主、西南部以淤积为主的发展趋势.     

A two-phase numerical model for sediment transport prediction under oscillatory sheet flows

To predict sediment transport under oscillatory sheet flow condition, especially for fine sand, is still a challenging research subject in coastal engineering. This paper describes a newly-developed numerical model based on two-phase theory with the use of a one-equation turbulence closure, and its applications in predicting fine sediment suspension in near-prototype oscillatory sheet flow conditions. Model results were compared with comprehensive laboratory measurements of flow velocity and sediment concentration under both symmetrical and asymmetrical oscillatory sheet flows from a large-scale water tunnel. Good agreements between the model results and measurements were achieved and the results demonstrated that the model is capable of reproducing detailed characteristics of sediment entrainment process in the sheet flow regime. The comparisons also revealed the fact that the concentration peaks at flow reversal is associated with the strong vertical sediment transport flux in the pickup layer, which has been widely observed in many laboratory experiments. The effects of flow reversal events on total sediment transport were also discussed.     

Alongshore fluid motions in the swash zone of a sandy and gravel beach

Field experiments were conducted on a low-gradient, high-energy sandy beach (Truc Vert, France) and a steep, low-energy gravel beach (Slapton, UK) to examine alongshore-directed currents within the swash zone. At Truc Vert, data were collected over 33 tidal cycles with offshore significant wave heights of 1–4 m and periods of 5–12 s. At Slapton data were collected during 12 tides with wave heights of 0.3–1 m and periods of 4–9 s. The swash motion was predominantly at infragravity frequencies at Truc Vert and incident frequencies at Slapton.     

A combined numerical model of three-dimensional tidal motion and sediment transport in tidal current and its application

INTRODUCTIONTheregularpatternsofmovementanddistributionofcurrentandsedimentinwaterbodyinestuaryandatcoastareconcernedbythepublicatalltime,butonlyafewresearchesonthenumericalsimulationofthethree-dimensionalnonlinearmovementoftideandwave,inwhichLeendertse's(Leendertseetal.,1973)finitedifferencemethod(FDM)istheleadingone,havebeendoneuptonow.TheLeendertseFDMisnotverygoodinitsapplication.Themainreasonisthatinthemodethesquaregridsinaplanecomputationaldomainareadopted.Thisgridsystemcannotfitt…     

利用被动示踪物模拟对黑潮入侵南海的数值研究

由于缺少观测数据和对黑潮水准确定义,很难识别出从太平洋入侵到南海的黑潮水团。本文基于一个经过观测验证的三维模式MITgcm,利用被动示踪物标记黑潮水,研究了入侵南海的黑潮水的时空变化。研究表明,在冬季,黑潮水入侵的范围最广,几乎占据了18°N-23°N和114°E-121°E的区域;并有一个分支进入台湾海峡;黑潮入侵的范围随深度增加逐渐减小。在夏季,黑潮水被限制在118°E以东,且没有分支进入台湾海峡;入侵的范围从海面到约205米是增大的,之后随深度增加逐渐减小。通过分析从2003年到2012年黑潮入侵的年际变化,与厄尔尼诺年和正常年相比,冬季黑潮入侵后向台湾海峡的分支在拉尼娜年是最弱的,这可能与中国大陆东南方向的风应力旋度有关。通过吕宋海峡的黑潮入侵通量（KIT）是西向的,其年平均值约为-3.86×10⁶ m³/s,大于吕宋海峡通量（LST,约-3.15×10⁶ m³/s）。250米以上的KIT约占了全深度通量的60-80%。此外,从2003年到2012年KIT与Niño 3.4指数的相关系数到达0.41,小于LST与Niño 3.4指数的相关系数0.78。     

Two-dimensional,two-phase granular sediment transport model with applications to scouring downstream of an apron

We present a two-dimensional, two-phase model for non-cohesive sediment transport. This model solves concentration-weighted averaged equations of motion for both fluid and sediment phases. The model accounts for the interphase momentum transfer by considering drag forces. A collisional theory is used to compute the sediment stresses, while a two-equation (k–ε) fluid turbulence closure is implemented. A benchmark sediment transport problem concerning the scouring downstream of an apron is carried out as an example and numerical results agree with existing experimental data.     

A Bingham-plastic model for fluid mud transport under waves and currents

Simplified equations of fluid mud motion, which is described as Bingham-Plastic model under waves and currents, are presented by order analysis. The simplified equations are non-linear ordinary differential equations which are solved by hybrid numerical-analytical technique. As the computational cost is very low, the effects of wave current parameters and fluid mud properties on the transportation velocity of the fluid mud are studied systematically. It is found that the fluid mud can move toward one direction even if the shear stress acting on the fluid mud bed is much smaller than the fluid mud yield stress under the condition of wave and current coexistence. Experiments of the fluid mud motion under current with fluctuation water surface are carried out. The fluid mud transportation velocity predicted by the presented mathematical model can roughly match that measured in experiments.     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

波浪作用下近岸区污染物输移扩散的数学模型及其实验验证

在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向.     

A simple model of sediment initiation under waves

A simple model is developed to study the initial motion of sediment on a horizontal bed under non-breaking waves. The model is derived to be A=C(T−T₀) based on a wide range of experimental data collected in different flow regimes, where A is the nearbed semi-excursion of wave motion, T is the wave period, and C and T₀ are the coefficients dependent on sediment properties only. For a given sediment, the onset velocity of sediment motion derived from the model is shown to initially increase sharply with wave period T and then approach a constant. The flow Reynolds number Re corresponding to an initiated sediment is also calculated from the simple model and found to be a function of sediment properties and wave period. For the completeness of this study, the initial motion of light sediment under very short waves is also investigated. The present model agrees well with the available laboratory and field data.     

海岸悬沙运移数学模型

根据适合大范围缓变地形情况下,不恒定、非均匀流场中随机波折绕射联合数值模式及波浪作用下的二维浅水环流方程和悬沙扩散方程,建立了波浪、潮流共同作用下二维悬沙数学模型,并将该模型应用于渤海湾北部海域,进行了波、流共同作用下航道疏浚弃土的悬沙扩散、运移及海床演变的数值模拟,为工程单位决策提供科学依据     

三维潮流和潮流输沙问题的一种混合数值模拟及其应用

应用一种平面迎风有限元与垂向隐式有限差分相结合的数值计算方法建立了三维潮流和潮流输沙数学模型,并分别与相应的理论公式进行了对比验证.将建立的模型对广西廉州湾水域进行了计算,与实测资料的对比分析表明模型的计算结果符合实际.     

A Lagrangian model for boundary layer growth and bed shear stress in the swash zone

A new model for the boundary layer development and associated skin friction coefficients and shear stress within the swash zone is presented. The model is developed within a Lagrangian reference frame, following fluid trajectories, and can be applied to both laminar flow and smooth turbulent flow. The model is based on the momentum integral approach for steady, flat-plate boundary layers, with appropriate modifications to account for the unsteady flow regime and flow history. The model results are consistent with previous measurements of bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients within the swash zone. These indicate strong temporal and spatial variation throughout the swash cycle, and a clear distinction between the uprush and backwash phase. This variation has been previously attributed the unsteady flow regime and flow history effects, both of which are accounted for in the new model. Fluid particle trajectories and velocity are computed using the non-linear shallow water wave equations and the boundary layer growth across the entire swash zone is estimated. Predictions of the bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients agree reasonably well with direct bed shear stress measurements reported by Barnes et al. (Barnes, M.P., O’Donaghue, T., Alsina, J.M., Baldock, T.E., 2009. Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash. Coastal Engineering 56 (8), 853–867) and, for a given flow velocity, give stresses which are consistent with the bias toward uprush sediment transport which has consistently been observed in measurements. The data and modelling suggest that the backwash boundary layer is initially laminar, which results in the late development of significant bed shear during the backwash, with a transition to a turbulent boundary layer later in the backwash. A new conceptual model for the boundary layer structure at the leading edge of the swash is proposed, which accounts for both the no-slip condition at the bed and the moving wet–dry interface. However, further development of the Lagrangian Boundary Layer Model is required in order to include bore-generated turbulence and to account for variable roughness and mobile beds.