Estimating Directional Distribution for Co-Existent Field of Incident and Reflected Waves

In the nearshore,the wave field contains reflected and incident waves in which there iscorrelation between their phases due to the effect of reflection by some obstacles.Based on the extendedeigenvector method(EEV)derived by Guan et al.,a modified method(MEEV)is proposed as a generaland practical approach to estimating directional spectra for the co-existent field of incident and reflectedwaves and a formula is given for direct calculation of the reflection coefficient.The results of numericalsimulations show that MEEV is superior to EEV in resolution power,and the computed reflectioncoefficient agrees well with the real value within a certain range of incident angle.     

Reflection of Oblique Incident Waves by Breakwaters with Partially-Perforated Wall

The reflection of oblique incident waves from breakwaters with a partially-perforated front wall is investigated. The fluid domain is divided into two sub-domains and the eigenfunction expansion method is applied to expand velocity poten-tials in each domain. In the eigen-expansion of the velocity potential, evanescent waves are included. Numerical results of the present model are compared with experimental data. The effect of porosity, the relative chamber width, the relative water depth in the wave absorbing chamber and the water depth in front of the structure are discussed.     

Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.     

Numerical Simulated Study on the Separation of Oblique Incident and Reflected Waves

The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05～0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable.     

Tests and Applications of An Approach to Absorbing Reflected Waves Towards Incident Boundary

If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary.     

Analysis of Wave Height in Front of a Wave Absorbing Structure with Rubble Foundation

Wave absorbing structures have been widely applied in many countries. In the present paper, the wave heights in front of a vertical wave absorbing structure with rubble foundation as well as in the wave chamber of the structure are analysed using an approximative calculation method, and the dissipating effect of the structure is verified. On the basis of the results of regular waves, the relative wave heights of irregular waves in front of the wave absorbing structure as well as in the chamber have also been analysed.     

海浪方向谱的阵列测量

本文在系统分析国内外有关方向谱测量工作的基础上,根据实验室模型试验结果,采用由五个测波仪组成的“T”形阵列,于1991年6～7月同在渤海8号采油平台上首次进行了方向谱阵列测量,获得了宝贵的阵列测量资料。测量实施表明,选择最佳测量方案及性能稳定的测波仪器,对测量结果是至关重要的。     

Influence of Energy Directional Spread on Wave Spectral Refraction

Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.     

Laboratory Study on the Interaction Between Regular Obliquely Incident Waves and Vertical Walls

The characteristics of wave forces are studied based on physical model tests with regular waves. The ratio of obliquely incident wave forces to normally incident wave forces on unit length of a vertical wall is related with various factors. A linear reduction of the mean force of obliquely incident waves is confirmed with an increase in the relative caisson length. Also the characteristics of reflection coefficient of diagonal waves are discussed.     

Nearshore Wave Field Analysis Using SAR Images

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Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

海浪方向谱阵列资料实例分析

根据傅氏级数展开法和贝叶斯方法,对现场获得的阵列资料进行了方向谱实例分析。结果表明,实测风浪方向谱能量的相对分布与相应的波场类型密切相关。涌浪和由稳定风场引起的风浪方向谱各组成波能量相对于方向呈单峰对称分布。大风引起的风浪方向谱能量的相对分布,虽也近似为单峰,但对称性差。不同波场类型的风浪方向谱各组成波的谱密度极值方向不同,表明不同频率的组成波有不同的主方向。     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Heights in A Directional Wave Field Through Image Sequences

Measurements of wave heights with image sequences from a Charged Coupled Device(CCD) camera were made. Sinusoidal, as well as unidirectional and directional, waves were used for the experiments. A transfer function was obtained by calibration of the magnitudes of the gray values of the images against the results of wave gauge measurements for directional waves. With this transfer function, wave heights for regular waves were deduced. It is shown that the average relative errors are smaller than 16% for both unidirectional and directional waves.     

Long Wave Reflection and Transmission over A Sloping Step

This investigation examines long wave reflection and transmission induced by a sloping step. Bellman and Kalaba‘s (1959) invariant imbeddlng is introduced to find wave reflection. An alternative method matching both the surface elevation and its surface slope of each region at the junction is applied to the determination of wave reflection and transmission.The proposed methods are compared with the accurate numerical results of Porter and Porter (2000) and those of Mei (1983) for a vertical step. The wave reflection obtained for a mildly sloping step differs significantly from the result of Mei. The wave reflection is found to fluctuate owing to wave trapping for the ntild sloping step. The height and the face slope of the step are important for determining wave reflection and transmission coefficients.     

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.     

南印度洋海浪场时空特征分析

根据 1950 —1995 年共 46 a 的南印度洋船舶气象报资料，按 5°×　5°网格统计的海浪要素进行分析研究。通过分析每月各要素的等值线分布图，得出南印度洋海浪场季节变化特点不如北半球各大洋显著，但仍有较明显的季节变化，只是季节性差异较小，冬季比夏季海浪强盛，相应的平均波高、大浪大涌频率也较大；盛行风浪传播方向、涌浪传播方向基本一致，10°S 以北为季风气候区，而其它海域则信风区常年盛行 SE 向浪，40°S 以南盛行偏 W 向浪。本文提供了南印度洋海域较为翔实的海浪场资料及变化规律。     

中国东部海域冬季风场与海浪场的关联特征分析

利用WAVEWATCHⅢ海浪模式模拟的1993-2011年中国东部海域19 a冬季逐日海浪场资料以及同期CCMP逐日风场资料,采用奇异值分解(SVD)的方法分析了冬季中国东部海域海浪场与提前0~5 d的东亚大陆地面风场的关联特征。结果发现:海浪场与提前1 d的地面风场的关联更有意义;SVD第一模态和第二模态分别反映了贝加尔湖以东南下的反气旋式偏北扰动大风(或气旋式偏南扰动大风)和中国东部平原入海的气旋式扰动风场(或反气旋式扰动风场)对中国东部海域海浪的扰动影响。此外,SVD分析还揭示了冬季影响中国东部海域海浪的大风关键区和移动路径;随着时间的推移,大风关键区从贝加尔湖以东逐步由蒙古南下影响中国东北和华北地区,最后到达中国东部海域。     

Hydrodynamic Coefficients for Grouping Piles Under the Action of Irregular Waves

-The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary with the KC number, the relative pile spacing, the number of piles and the pile location, and their relationships are presented in this paper. They can be used in Morison Equation and other equations to calculate directly the in-line wave forces and the transverse forces on each pile in array.     

Analysis of Wave Directional Spreading by Bayesian Parameter Estimation

A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the lo-cal features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the Bayesian Parameter Estimation Method(BPEM) , is developed and adopted to determine the main direction and the directional spreading parame-ter of directional spectra. The BPEM could be considered as a regression analysis to find the maximum joint probability of parameters, which best approximates the observed data from the Bayesian viewpoint. The result of the analysis of field wave data demonstrates the highly dependency of the characteristics of normalized directional spreading on the wave age. The Mit-suyasu type empirical formula of directional spectrum is therefore modified to be representative of monsoon wave field. More-over, it is suggested that Smax could be expressed as a function of wave steepness. The values of Smax decrease with increas-ing steepness. Finally, a local directi