Observations over an annual cycle and simulations of wind-forced oscillations near the critical latitude for diurnal-inertial resonance

Sea breezes are characteristic features of coastal regions that can extend large distances from the coastline. Oscillations close to the inertial period are thought to account for around half the kinetic energy in the global surface ocean and play an important role in mixing. In the vicinity of 30°N/S, through a resonance between the diurnal and inertial frequencies, diurnal winds could force enhanced anti-cyclonic rotary motions that contribute to near-inertial energy.Observations of strong diurnal anti-cyclonic currents in water of depth 175 m off the Namibian coastline at 28.6°S are analysed over the annual cycle. Maxima in the diurnal anti-cyclonic current and wind stress amplitudes appear to be observed during the austral summer. Both the diurnal anti-cyclonic current and wind stress components have approximately constant phase throughout the year. These observations provide further evidence that these diurnal currents may be wind forced. Realistic General Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM) 1-D simulations of diurnal wind forcing, including the first order coast-normal surface slope response to diurnal wind forcing, represent the principal features of the observed diurnal anti-cyclonic current but do not replicate the observed vertical diurnal current structure accurately. Cross-shelf 2-D slice simulations suggest that the first order surface slope response approximation applies away from the coast (>140 km). However, nearer to the coast, additional surface slope variations associated with spatial variations in the simulated velocity field (estimated from Bernoulli theory) appear to be significant and also result in transfer of energy to higher harmonics. Evidence from 3-D simulations at similar latitude in the northern hemisphere suggests that 3-D variations, including propagating near-inertial waves, may also need to be considered.     

Low-frequency current variability observed at the shelfbreak in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico: May–October, 2004

High-resolution current measurements were made in the Northeastern Gulf of Mexico by the Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) as part of its Slope to Shelf Energetics and Exchange Dynamics (SEED) project. The major goal of SEED is to understand the mechanisms that transfer properties across the shelf slope. Fourteen acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) were deployed just west of the DeSoto Canyon on the shelf and down the slope from May to November, 2004 to measure nearly full water column current profiles. Currents were found more variable on the shelf than on the slope but in the mean strongly tended to follow bathymetry, particularly on the slope. During the SEED time period currents were driven by both local and remote winds, by cyclonic eddies associated with the Loop Current extension and Loop Current rings, by smaller eddies associated with the cyclonic eddies, by frontal meanders or streamers associated with the eddies, and by tropical storms. Currents were highly barotropic, accounting for more than 80% of the eddy kinetic energy (EKE). Current magnitudes generally increased from west to east, towards the DeSoto Canyon. Tropical storms had a relatively minor short-term effect upon mass transports. Cross-shelf transports were much smaller than the along-shelf transports. Onshore transports were stronger on the western side of the array while offshore transports were stronger on the eastern side of the array near the DeSoto Canyon. Offshore transports generally occurred during eastward flow periods, onshore transports during westward flow periods, and both during eddy periods. Mesoscale eddies also provided contributions to cross-shelf exchange. Large scale circulation features could be determined from the first two empirical-orthogonal function (EOF) modes which accounted for 83% of the variance and were strongly related to the integrated wind stress.     

Intra-seasonal and inter-annual variations in phytoplankton biomass,primary production and bacterial production at North West Cape,Western Australia: Links to the 1997–1998 El Niño event

Phytoplankton biomass, community and size structure, primary production and bacterial production were measured at shelf and continental slope sites near North West Cape, Western Australia (20.5°S–22.5°S) over two summers (October–February 1997–1998 and 1998–1999), and in April 2002. The North West Cape region is characterized by upwelling-favorable, southwesterly winds throughout the summer. Surface outcropping of upwelled water is suppressed by the geostrophic pressure gradients and warm low-density surface waters of the southward flowing Leeuwin Current. Strong El Niño (ENSO) conditions (SOI <0) prevailed through the summer of 1997–1998 which resulted in lower sea levels along the northwestern Australian coast and a weaker Leeuwin Current. La Niña conditions prevailed during the 1998–1999 summer and in April 2002. During the summer of 1997–1998, the North West Cape region was characterized by a shallower thermocline (nutricline), resulting in larger euphotic zone stocks of inorganic nitrogen and silicate over the continental slope. There was evidence for episodic intrusions of upper thermocline waters and the sub-surface chlorophyll maximum onto the outer continental shelf in 1997–1998, but not in 1998–1999. Pronounced differences in phytoplankton biomass, community size structure and productivity were observed between the summers of 1997–1998 and 1998–1999 despite general similarities in irradiance, temperature and wind stress. Phytoplankton primary production and bacterial production were 2- to 4-fold higher during the summer of 1997–1998 than in 1998–1999, while total phytoplankton standing crop increased by<2-fold. Larger phytoplankton (chiefly diatoms in the >10 μm size fraction) made significant contributions to phytoplankton standing crop and primary production during the summer of 1997–1998, but not 1998–1999. Although there were no surface signs of upwelling, primary production rates near North West Cape episodically reached levels (3–8 g C m⁻² day⁻¹) characteristic of eastern boundary Ekman upwelling zones elsewhere in the world. Bacterial production (0.006–1.2 g C m⁻² day⁻¹) ranged between 0.6 and 145 percent (median=19 percent) of concurrent primary production. The observed differences between years and within individual summers suggest that variations in the Leeuwin Current driven by seasonal or ENSO-related changes in the Indonesian throughflow region may have episodic, but significant influences on pelagic productivity along the western margin of Australia.     

Coastal currents caused by superposition of coastal-trapped waves and near-inertial oscillations observed near the Noto Peninsula, Japan

Current observations were made from 14 July 2006 to 31 March 2007, using an acoustic Doppler current profiler mounted on the seafloor near the eastern coast of the Noto Peninsula, Japan, to investigate strong coastal currents induced by large-amplitude coastal-trapped waves (CTWs) and near-inertial fluctuations (NIFs). The CTWs were generated by the winter monsoon and the passage of a typhoon during the observation period. Two types of strong currents with velocities higher than 50 cm s^-1 were observed. One type, the strong current in winter (SCW), had the coast on the left to its direction of flow. This current was observed after a strengthening of the winter monsoon in January 2007. The other type, the strong current in fall (SCF), had the coast on the right to its direction of flow and was observed after the passage of a typhoon in September 2006. The SCW was inferred to be formed mainly by low-mode CTWs without NIFs. Compared to the SCW, the SCF had a more complicated vertical structure and time variations. The SCF was inferred to be generated by low-mode CTWs strengthened by NIFs. The contributions of NIFs to the strong coastal currents became important when the wind stress direction was rotating clockwise.     

Assessing the importance of tropical cyclones on continental margin sedimentation in the Mississippi delta region

Recent research on the Mississippi margin indicates notable seasonal variation in seabed dynamics. During years with minimal tropical-system activity, sediments initially deposited from late spring to early fall are remobilized by wind-driven currents and wave energy during extra-tropical weather systems in the winter. This research reveals the profound significance of tropical cyclones on Louisiana Shelf sedimentation. The amount of material delivered to and advected across the shelf by recent tropical cyclones is considerably larger than that related to winter storm systems. In Fall 2004, the river-dominated shelf of Louisiana was impacted by three tropical systems in less than a month, including Hurricane Ivan. Ivan, with maximum sustained winds in excess of 74 m s⁻¹ (144 knots) and a minimum measured central pressure of 910 mbar, was the eighth most intense Atlantic hurricane on record at the time. In order to assess the impact these tropical systems had on the continental margin west of the Mississippi delta, seabed samples were collected from box cores in October 2004 and analyzed for particle-reactive radionuclides ²³⁴Th, ⁷Be, and ²¹⁰Pb. Radiochemical data and observations from X-radiographs indicate event-driven sediment deposits ranged from 4 to 30 cm on the shelf and 2–6 cm in the Mississippi Canyon. These deposits exhibit distinct radiochemical signatures and differ visually and texturally from the underlying sediment. The well-developed physical stratification and graded nature of the deposits observed in core X-radiographs suggests that the sediment could have been deposited from sediment-gravity flows. Inventories of ⁷Be and ⁷Be/²³⁴Th_xs ratios reveal this series of cyclones transported considerably more material to the outer shelf and slope than periods of minimal tropical-system activity. When compared to seasonal depositional rates created by winter storms, tropical-cyclone-related event deposits on the middle and outer shelf are up to an order of magnitude greater in thickness. The number and thickness of these event deposits decrease with distance from the delta and suggest that only the most severe tropical systems are likely capable of redistributing significant quantities of sediment to more distal portions of the shelf and slope. These severe-event-driven deposits may account for as much as 75% of the sediment burial budget on decadal time scales within Mississippi Canyon. Higher than average tropical cyclone activity, predicted by the National Hurricane Center over the next decade, may be the major mechanism controlling sediment transport and deposition on the Mississippi River continental shelf and in Mississippi Canyon.     

On the modifications of near-inertial waves at fronts: implications for energy transfer across scales

In the ocean, wind-generated kinetic energy (KE) manifests itself primarily in balanced currents and near-inertial waves. The dynamics of these flows is strongly constrained by the Earth’s rotation, causing the KE in balanced currents to follow an inverse cascade but also preventing wave-wave interactions from fluxing energy in the near-inertial band to lower frequencies and higher vertical wavenumbers. How wind-generated KE is transferred to small-scale turbulence and dissipated is thus a non-trivial problem. This article presents a review of recent theoretical calculations and numerical simulations that demonstrate how some surprising modifications to internal wave physics by the lateral density gradients present at ocean fronts allow for strong interactions between balanced currents and near-inertial waves that ultimately result in energy loss for both types of motion.     

Low-frequency current variability observed at the shelfbreak in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico: November 2004–May 2005

Fourteen acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) were deployed on the shelf and slope for 1 year just west of the DeSoto Canyon in the Northeastern Gulf of Mexico by the Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) as part of its Slope to Shelf Energetics and Exchange Dynamics (SEED) project. The winter and spring observations are discussed here in regards to the low-frequency current variability and its relation to wind and eddy forcing. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analyses showed that two modes described most of the current variability. Wind-forced variability of the along-shelf flow was the main contributor in Mode 1 while eddies contributed much of the variability in Mode 2. Wind-stress controlled currents on the shelf and slope at time scales of about a week. On longer time scales, variations in the currents on both the outer shelf and slope appear to be related to seasonal variations in the time-cumulated wind stress curl. Winds were dominant in driving the along-shelf transports, particularly along the slope. However, the effective wind stress component was found to be aligned with the west Florida shelf direction rather than the local shelf direction. Eddy intrusions, which were more numerous in winter and spring than in summer and fall, and winds were found to contribute significantly to cross-shelf exchange processes.     

VHF radar observations of surface currents off the northern Opal coast in the eastern English Channel

Two very high-frequency radars (VHFR) operating on the Opal coast of eastern English Channel provided a nearly continuous 35-day long dataset of surface currents over a 500 km² area at 0.6–1.8 km resolution. Argo drifter tracking and CTD soundings complemented the VHFR observations, which extended approximately 25 km offshore. The radar data resolve three basic modes of the surface velocity variation in the area, that are driven by tides, winds and freshwater fluxes associated with seasonal river discharge. The first mode, accounting for 90% of variability, is characterized by an along-shore flow pattern, whereas the second and third modes exhibit cross-shore, and eddy-like structures in the current velocity field. All the three modes show the dominant semi-diurnal variability and low-frequency modulation by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Although tidal forcing provides the major contribution to variability of local currents, baroclinicity plays an important role in shaping the 3D velocity field averaged over the tidal cycle and may strongly affect tracer dynamics on larger time scales. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) decomposition and a spectral rotary analysis of the VHFR data reveal a discontinuity in the velocity field occurring approximately 10 km offshore which was caused by the reversal in the sign of rotation of the current vector. This feature of local circulation is responsible for surface current convergence on ebb, divergence on flood and strong oscillatory vertical motion. Spectral analysis of the observed currents and the results of the Agro drifter tracking indicate that the line of convergence approximately follows the 30-m isobath. The most pronounced feature of the radar-derived residual circulation is the along-coast intensification of surface currents with velocity magnitude of 0.25 m/s typical for the Regions of Freshwater Influence (ROFI). The analysis has provided a useful, exploratory examination of surface currents, suggesting that the circulation off the Opal coast is governed by ROFI dynamics on the hypertidal background.     

Variations of vertical velocity in the deep oceans simulated by a 1/10° OGCM

This paper analyzes variations of vertical velocity w simulated by the 1/10° Ocean General Circulation Model for the Earth Simulator (OFES). Strong w-variability is found in the deep oceans. When w is WKBJ-normalized, the standard deviation averaged over the Southern Ocean increases with depth and is larger than 8 × 10^− 3 cm/s throughout the water column below 1,500 m. Evidences are presented that link this w-variability to internal waves generated by quasi-steady currents over topography. The aliasing errors in lag-3-day correlations suggest a bottom generation of near-inertial waves. A scale analysis indicates that vertically propagating waves that can be resolved by the OFES model are waves with frequencies of the order of inertial frequency and wavelengths comparable to the order of the grid size. The vertical energy flux associated with these waves is substantial. When integrated globally, the vertical energy flux is upward in the upper 4 km and reaches maximum values of about 0.8 TW at about 1 to 2 km depth. Thus, the w-variability in the 1/10° OFES integration points not only to a strong bottom generation of near-inertial internal waves in the deep Southern Ocean but also to the possibility that the power provided by internal waves generated by non-tidal currents over topography can be comparable to the power provided by internal waves generated by tidal flows over topography.     

Sediment delivery,resuspension, and transport in two contrasting canyon environments in the southwest Gulf of Lions

Multiple canyons incise the continental slope at the seaward edge of the continental shelf in the Gulf of Lions and are actively involved in the transfer of sediment from shelf to deep sea. Two canyons in the southwest region of the Gulf of Lions, Lacaze-Duthiers Canyon and Cap de Creus Canyon, were instrumented with bottom-boundary-layer tripods in their heads to evaluate the processes involved in sediment delivery, resuspension and transport. In both canyons, intense cold, dense-water flows carry sediment across the slope. In the Lacaze-Duthiers canyon head (located ∼35 km from the shoreline), dense-water cascading into the canyon was episodic. Currents were highly variable in the canyon head, and responded to interactions between the along-slope Northern Current and the sharp walls of the canyon. Inertial and other high-frequency fluctuations were associated with suspended-sediment concentrations of ∼5 mg/l. In Cap de Creus canyon head (located ∼14 km from the shoreline), downslope currents were higher in magnitude and more persistent than in Lacaze-Duthiers canyon head. Greater suspended-sediment concentrations (peaks up to 20 mg/l) were observed in Cap de Creus Canyon due to resuspension of the canyon seabed during dense-water cascading events. The similarities and contrasts between processes in these two canyon heads emphasize the importance of the interaction of currents with sharp canyon bathymetry. The data also suggest that cold, dense-water flows have more potential to carry sediment to the slope on narrow shelves, and may more efficiently transfer that sediment to the deep sea where a smooth transition between shelf and slope exists.     

Dense shelf water cascades and sedimentary furrow formation in the Cap de Creus Canyon,northwestern Mediterranean Sea

To investigate the processes by which sediment is transported through a submarine canyon incised in a continental margin affected by recurrent dense shelf water cascading events, several instrumented moorings were deployed in the Cap de Creus Canyon from September 2004 to September 2005. This was done as part of the EuroSTRATAFORM Program that investigated sediment transport and accumulation processes in the Gulf of Lions. Results obtained in this observational study confirm that major cascading events can effectively contribute to the rapid export of sediment from the shelf and upper slope to deeper environments, and suggest that the associated strong currents carrying coarse particles are able to erode the canyon floor and generate sedimentary furrows. During winter 2004–2005, persistent northerly winds and the absence of river floods contributed to decrease the buoyancy of coastal waters and to dramatically enhance the intensity of dense shelf water cascades in the Gulf of Lions. Under such conditions, cascading continuously affected the entire Cap de Creus upper canyon section for more than a month and sustained cold temperatures and down-canyon steady currents >60 cm/s (up to 100 cm/s), showing periodic fluctuations that lasted between 3 and 6 days. Increases in suspended sediment concentrations were associated with dense shelf water cascading outbursts, but the magnitude of the concentration peaks decreased with time, suggesting a progressive exhaustion of the resuspendable sediments from the shelf and canyon floor. Grain size analyses of the particles caught by a near-bottom sediment trap show that dense shelf water cascades are able to transport coarse sediments (up to 65% sand) in suspension (and presumably as bed load), which have the potential to abrade the seafloor and generate erosive bed forms. The orientation of a large field of “wide” (i.e., widths about 1/2 spacing indicative of erosive formation) sedimentary furrows recently observed in the Cap de Creus Canyon clearly coincides with the preferential direction of highest velocities measured by the moored current meters, indicating a causative relationship between contemporary dense shelf water cascades and furrow formation.     

Observations of submesoscale eddies using high-frequency radar-derived kinematic and dynamic quantities

The spatio-temporal variability of submesoscale eddies off southern San Diego is investigated with two-year observations of subinertial surface currents [O(1) m depth] derived from shore-based high-frequency radars. The kinematic and dynamic quantities — velocity potential, stream function, divergence, vorticity, and deformation rates — are directly estimated from radial velocity maps using optimal interpolation. For eddy detection, the winding-angle approach based on flow geometry is applied to the calculated stream function. A cluster of nearly enclosed streamlines with persistent vorticity in time is identified as an eddy. About 700 eddies were detected for each rotation (clockwise and counter-clockwise). The two rotations show similar statistics with diameters in the range of 5–25 km and Rossby number of 0.2–2. They persist for 1–7 days with weak seasonality and migrate with a translation speed of 4–15 cm s⁻¹ advected by background currents. The horizontal structure of eddies exhibits nearly symmetric tangential velocity with a maximum at the defined radius of the eddy, non-zero radial velocity due to background flows, and Gaussian vorticity with the highest value at the center. In contrast divergence has no consistent spatial shape. Two episodic events are presented with other in situ data (subsurface current and temperature profiles, and local winds) as an example of frontal-scale secondary circulation associated with drifting submesoscale eddies.     

Dye dispersion in the surf zone: Measurements and simple models

To examine the spatial and temporal effect of low-volume land-based runoff on beach contamination, discrete batches of dye were released at the shoreline at three beaches in Santa Monica Bay in 2000 (Malibu Creek, Santa Monica Canyon and Pico–Kenter drain). Dye concentration was measured at the shoreline 25, 50 and 100 m alongshore from the dye release point for up to 40 min after dye release. The shoreline concentration time series are characterized either by approximately exponential decay in concentration after passage of the dye patch maximum concentration or by persistent low concentration up to 30 min after passage of the initial dye patch front. In the absence of detailed measurements of physical conditions, several simple advection–diffusion models are used to simulate shoreline concentration time series for an idealized surf zone in order to probe the roles of alongshore current shear and rip currents in producing the observed characteristics in dye concentration time series. Favorable qualitative and quantitative comparison of measured and simulated time series suggest alongshore current shear and rip currents play key roles in generating the observed characteristics of nearshore dye patch dispersion. The models demonstrate the potential effects of these flow features on the extent and duration of beach contamination owing to a continuous contamination source.     

Nearshore currents on the southern Namaqua shelf of the Benguela upwelling system

Nearshore currents of the southern Namaqua shelf were investigated using data from a mooring situated three and a half kilometres offshore of Lambert's Bay, downstream of the Cape Columbine upwelling cell, on the west coast of South Africa. This area is susceptible to harmful algal blooms (HABs) and wind-forced variations in currents and water column structure are critical in determining the development, transport and dissipation of blooms. Time series of local wind data, and current and temperature profile data are described for three periods, considered to be representative of the latter part of the upwelling season (27 January–22 February), winter conditions (5–29 May) and the early part of the upwelling season (10 November–12 December) in 2005. Differences observed in mean wind strength and direction between data sets are indicative of seasonal changes in synoptic meteorological conditions. These quasi-seasonal variations in wind forcing affect nearshore current flow, leading to mean northward flow in surface waters early in the upwelling season when equatorward, upwelling-favourable winds are persistent. Mean near-surface currents are southward during the latter part of the upwelling season, consistent with more prolonged periods of relaxation from equatorward winds, and under winter conditions when winds were predominantly poleward. Within these seasonal variations in mean near-surface current direction, two scales of current variability were evident within all data sets: strong inertial oscillations were driven by diurnal winds and introduced vertical shear into the water column enhancing mixing across the thermocline, while sub-inertial current variability was driven by north–south wind reversals at periods of 2–5 days. Sub-inertial currents were found to lag wind reversals by approximately 12 h, with a tendency for near-surface currents to flow poleward in the absence of wind forcing. Consistent with similar sites along the Californian and Iberian coasts, the headland at Cape Columbine is considered to influence currents and circulation patterns during periods of relaxation from upwelling-favourable winds, favouring the development of a nearshore poleward current, leading to poleward advection of warm water, the development of stratification, and the creation of potentially favourable conditions for HAB development.     

Remote forcing of water levels by tropical cyclones in southwest Australia

Tropical cyclones (termed hurricanes and typhoons in other regions), are extreme events associated with strong winds, torrential rain and storm surges (in coastal areas) and cause extensive damage as a result of strong winds and flooding (caused by either heavy rainfall or ocean storm surges) in the immediate area of impact. The eastern Indian Ocean, particularly in the northwest region of Australia, is impacted by up to 10 tropical cyclones during the cyclone season, although direct impact of cyclones along the west and southwest coastlines is rare. However, the sub-tidal frequency component of sea level records along the west and south coasts of Western Australia indicates lagged correspondence with the occurrence of tropical cyclones. It is demonstrated that the tropical cyclones generate a continental shelf wave which travels along the west and south coasts of Australia up to 3500 km with speeds of 450–500 km day⁻¹ (5.2–5.8 ms⁻¹) with maximum trough to crest wave height of 0.63 m, comparable with the mean daily tidal range in the region. The shelf wave is identified in the coastal sea level records, initially as a decrease in water level, 1–2 days after the passage of the cyclone and has a period of influence up to 10 days. Amplitude of the shelf wave was strongly affected by the path of the tropical cyclone, with cyclones travelling parallel to the west coast typically producing the most significant signal due to resonance and superposition with local forcing. Analysis of water levels from Port Hedland, Geraldton, Fremantle and Albany together with cyclone paths over a ten year period (1988–1998) indicated that the tropical cyclones paths may be classified into 6 different types based on the amplitude of the wave.     

High-frequency vertical current observations in stratified seas

Although large-scale tidal and inertial motions dominate the kinetic energy and vertical current shear in shelf seas and ocean, short-scale internal waves at higher frequencies close to the local buoyancy frequency are of some interest for studying internal wave breaking and associated diapycnal mixing. Such waves near the upper limit of the inertio-gravity wave band are thought to have relatively short O (10²–10³ m) horizontal scales and to show mainly up- and downward motions, which contrasts with generally low aspect ratio large-scale ocean currents. Here, short-term vertical current (w) observations using moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) are presented from a shelf sea, above a continental slope and from the open ocean. The observed w, with amplitudes between 0.015 and 0.05 m s⁻¹, all span a considerable part of the water column, which is not a small vertical scale O(water depth) or O (100–500 m, the maximum range of observations), with either 0 or π phase change. This implies that they actually represent internal waves of low vertical modes 1 or 2. Maximum amplitudes are found in layers of largest stratification, some in the main pycnocline bordering the frictional bottom boundary layer, suggesting a tidal source. These ‘pycnocline-w’ compose a regular train of (solitary) internal waves and linearly decrease to small values near surface and bottom.     

A three-dimensional model study of near-inertial motion: generation and influence of an along-shelf flow

A three-dimensional baroclinic model of the Balearic Sea region is used to examine the processes influencing the distribution of near-inertial currents and waves in the region. Motion is induced by a spatially uniform wind impulse. By using a uniform wind, Ekman pumping due to spatial variability in the wind is removed with the associated generation of internal waves. However, internal waves can still be produced where stratification intersects topography. The generation and propagation of these waves, together with the spatial distribution of wind-forced inertial oscillations, are examined in detail. Diagnostic calculations show that in the near-coastal region inertial oscillations are inhibited by the coastal boundary. Away from this boundary the magnitude of the inertial oscillations increases, with currents showing a 180° phase shift in the vertical. The inclusion of an along-shelf flow modifies the inertial currents due to non-linear interaction between vorticity in the flow and the inertial oscillations. Prognostic calculations show that besides inertial oscillations internal waves are generated. In a linear model the addition of an along-shelf flow produces a slight reduction in the energy at the near-inertial frequency due to enhanced viscosity associated with the flow and changes in density field. The inclusion of non-linear effects modifies the currents due to inertial oscillations in a manner similar to that found in the diagnostic model. A change in the effective inertial frequency also influences the propagation of the internal waves. However, this does not appear to be the main reason for the enhanced damping of inertial energy, which is due to the along-shelf advection of water of a different density into a region and increased viscosity and mixing associated with the along-shelf flow.Responsible Editor: Phil Dyke     

Numerical investigation of an oceanic resonant regime induced by hurricane winds

The oceanic mixed layer (OML) response to an idealized hurricane with different propagation speeds is investigated using a two-layer reduced gravity ocean model. First, the model performances are examined with respect to available observations relative to Hurricane Frances (2004). Then, 11 idealized simulations are performed with a Holland (Mon Weather Rev 108(8):1212–1218, 1980) symmetric wind profile as surface forcing with storm propagation speeds ranging from 2 to 12 m s⁻¹. By varying this parameter, the phasing between atmospheric and oceanic scales is modified. Consequently, it leads to different momentum exchanges between the hurricane and the OML and to various oceanic responses. The present study determines how OML momentum and heat budgets depend on this parameter. The kinetic energy flux due to surface wind stress is found to strongly depend on the propagation speed and on the cross-track distance from the hurricane center. A resonant regime between surface winds and near-inertial currents is clearly identified. This regime maximizes locally the energy flux into the OML. For fast-moving hurricanes (>6 m s⁻¹), the ratio of kinetic energy converted into turbulence depends only on the wind stress energy input. For slow-moving hurricanes (<6 m s⁻¹), the upwelling induced by current divergence enhances this conversion by shallowing the OML depth. Regarding the thermodynamic response, two regimes are identified with respect to the propagation speed. For slow-moving hurricanes, the upwelling combined with a sharp temperature gradient at the OML base formed in the leading part of the storm maximizes the oceanic heat loss. For fast propagation speeds, the resonance mechanism sets up the cold wake on the right side of the hurricane track. These results suggest that the propagation speed is a parameter as important as the surface wind speed to accurately describe the oceanic response to a moving hurricane.     

Remote sensing of temporal and spatial patterns of suspended particle size in the Irish Sea in relation to the Kolmogorov microscale

Suspended sediments form an integral part of shelf sea systems, determining light penetration for primary production through turbidity and dispersion of pollutants by adsorption and settling of particles. The settling speed of suspended particles depends on their size and on turbulence. Here a method of determining particle size via remote sensing measurements of ocean colour and brightness has been applied to a set of monthly satellite images of the Irish Sea covering a full year (2006). The suspended sediment concentration was calculated from the ratio between green (555 nm) and red (665 nm) wavelengths in MODIS imagery. Empirical formulae were employed to convert suspended sediment concentrations and irradiance reflectance in the red part of the spectrum into specific scattering by mineral particles and floc size. A geographical pattern was evident in all images with shallow areas with fast currents having high year-average suspended sediment concentrations (7.6 mg l⁻¹), high specific scattering (0.225 m² g⁻¹) and thus small particle sizes (143 μm). The reverse is true for deeper areas with slower currents, e.g. the Gyre southwest of the Isle of Man where turbidity levels are lower (3.3 mg l⁻¹), specific scattering is lower (0.081 m² g⁻¹) and thus particle sizes are larger (595 μm) on average over a year. Temporal signals are also seen over the year in these parameters with minimum seasonal amplitudes (a factor 3.5) in the Turbidity Maximum and maximum seasonal amplitudes twice as large (a factor 7) in the Gyre. In the Gyre heating overcomes mixing in summer and stratification occurs allowing suspended sediments to settle out and flocs to grow large. The size of aggregated flocs is theoretically proportional to the Kolmogorov scale. This scale was calculated using depth, current, and wind speed data and compared to the size of flocculated particles. The proportionality changes through the year, indicating the influence of biological processes in summer in promoting larger flocs.     

Intense diurnal surface currents in the Bay of La Paz,Mexico

Currents in the northern Bay of La Paz were examined using an 8-month Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) record collected in the upper 185 m of the water column during 2007. Flow variability was dominated by tidal motions, which accounted for 43% (33% diurnal, 10% semidiurnal) of the total kinetic energy. The tidal motions had a pronounced vertical structure dominated within a shallow (∼30 m thick) surface layer by intense counterclockwise (CCW) rotary S₁ diurnal radiational currents that were highly coherent with the counterclockwise seabreeze. Motions within the semidiurnal frequency band were primarily associated with significant counterclockwise S₂ radiational tidal currents, which were also coherent with the seabreeze. Both S₁ and S₂ tidal ellipses in the upper layer were aligned perpendicular to the bay entrance with mean semi-major axes of 55 and 20 cm/s, respectively. Below the surface layer, tidal currents decayed rapidly to relatively weak, clockwise rotary barotropic motions. In contrast to those for radiational harmonics, tidal ellipses of the gravitational constituents (M₂, K₁ and O₁) were oriented cross-bay. Energy within the diurnal frequency band in the surface layer was dominated by a coherent component (barotropic, phase-locked baroclinic and radiational), which accounted for roughly 65% (59% from S₁ alone) of the total diurnal kinetic energy. Of the remaining diurnal band energy, 18% was associated with an incoherent baroclinic component and 17% with a background noise component. Below 30 m depth, the corresponding estimates are 40%, 32% and 28%, respectively. The persistent, surface-intensified CCW rotary currents observed at the mooring site are assumed to be forced by strong CCW seabreeze winds in the presence of a “slippery” low-density surface layer. This response may be further augmented by topographic narrowing at the bay entrance and by the close proximity of the diurnal and inertial frequency bands in the region.