海平面上升与海滩侵蚀

世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。     

SHORELINE CHANGE AT THOMPSON ISLAND,BOSTON HARBOR,MASSACHUSETTS, 1938-1977

A photogrammetric and sediment analysis is presented to illustrate the relationship between beach erosion and seacliff recession on Thompson Island, Boston Harbor, Massachusetts. Aerial photographs taken in 1938, 1952, 1963, and 1977 were measured to determine rates of shoreline change around the island. The 39-year average rate of beach erosion is 0.3 m/yr ± 2% with an average rate of cliff recession at 0.2 m/yr ± 2%. Rates of beach erosion between six orientations that reflect principal wave approach to the island were not found to be significantly different (0.05) for the 39-year period. The rank order correlation between beach erosion and cliff recession for these six orientations was moderately well correlated (0.63). To determine possible controls of cliff erosion, 58 sediment samples were collected from glacial cliffs along the shoreline. The textural composition was determined, and then tested with discriminant function analysis. Partial correlation analysis between beach erosion and cliff recession holding a surrogate for sediment size constant improved the rank order from 0.63 to 0.84. The results indicate that coarser-grained cliffs recede at faster rates, but with less erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. Alternatively, finer-grained cliffs recede at slower rates, but with greater erosion occurring on adjacent beaches.     

Beach morphology and change along the mixed grain-size delta of the dammed Elwha River, Washington

Sediment supply provides a fundamental control on the morphology of river deltas, and humans have significantly modified these supplies for centuries. Here we examine the effects of almost a century of sediment supply reduction from the damming of the Elwha River in Washington on shoreline position and beach morphology of its wave-dominated delta. The mean rate of shoreline erosion during 1939–2006 is ~ 0.6 m/yr, which is equivalent to ~ 24,000 m³/yr of sediment divergence in the littoral cell, a rate approximately equal to 25–50% of the littoral-grade sediment trapped by the dams. Semi-annual surveys between 2004 and 2007 show that most erosion occurs during the winter with lower rates of change in the summer. Shoreline change and morphology also differ spatially. Negligible shoreline change has occurred updrift (west) of the river mouth, where the beach is mixed sand to cobble, cuspate, and reflective. The beach downdrift (east) of the river mouth has had significant and persistent erosion, but this beach differs in that it has a reflective foreshore with a dissipative low-tide terrace. Downdrift beach erosion results from foreshore retreat, which broadens the low-tide terrace with time, and the rate of this kind of erosion has increased significantly from ~ 0.8 m/yr during 1939–1990 to ~ 1.4 m/yr during 1990–2006. Erosion rates for the downdrift beach derived from the 2004–2007 topographic surveys vary between 0 and 13 m/yr, with an average of 3.8 m/yr. We note that the low-tide terrace is significantly coarser (mean grain size ~ 100 mm) than the foreshore (mean grain size ~ 30 mm), a pattern contrary to the typical observation of fining low-tide terraces in the region and worldwide. Because this cobble low-tide terrace is created by foreshore erosion, has been steady over intervals of at least years, is predicted to have negligible longshore transport compared to the foreshore portion of the beach, and is inconsistent with oral history of abundant shellfish collections from the low-tide beach, we suggest that it is an armored layer of cobble clasts that are not generally competent in the physical setting of the delta. Thus, the cobble low-tide terrace is very likely a geomorphological feature caused by coastal erosion of a coastal plain and delta, which in turn is related to the impacts of the dams on the Elwha River to sediment fluxes to the coast.     

Internal structure of a barrier beach as revealed by ground penetrating radar (GPR): Chesil beach, UK

Chesil Beach (Dorset) is one of the most famous coastal landforms on the British coast. The gravel beach is over 18 km long and is separated for much of its length from land by a tidal lagoon known as The Fleet. The beach links the Isle of Portland in the east to the mainland in the west. Despite its iconic status there is little available information on its internal geometry and evolutionary history. Here we present a three-fold model for the evolution of Chesil Beach based on a series of nine ground penetrating radar (GPR) traverses located at three sites along its length at Abbotsbury, Langton Herring and at Ferry Bridge. The GPR traverses reveal a remarkably consistent picture of the internal structure of this barrier beach. The first phase of evolution involves the landward transgression of a small sand and gravel beach which closed upon the coast leading to deposition of freshwater peat between 5 and 7 k yr BP. The second evolutionary phase involves the ‘bulking-out’ of the beach during continued sea level rise, but in the presence of abundant gravel supplied by down-drift erosion of periglacial slope deposits. This episode of growth was associated with a series of washover fans which accumulated on the landward flank of the barrier increasing its breadth and height but without significant landward transgression of the barrier as a whole. The final phase in the evolution of Chesil Beach involves the seaward progradation of the beach crest and upper beach face associated with continued sediment abundance, but during a still-stand or slight fall in relative sea level. This phase may provide further evidence of a slight fall in relative sea level noted elsewhere along the South Coast of Britain and dated to between 1.2 and 2.4 k yr BP. Subsequently the barrier appears to have become largely inactive, except for the reworking of sediment on the beach face during storm events. The case study not only refines the evolutionary picture of Chesil Beach, but illustrates the importance of the subtle interplay between relative sea level and sediment supply in the evolution of a barrier system. In addition, it also illustrates the potential of GPR in resolving the evolutionary history of gravel-rich coastal landforms such as Chesil Beach.     

Summer fast ice evolution off Zhongshan Station,Antarctica

Based on the field data acquired in the program of fast ice observation off Zhongshan Station,Prydz Bay,East Antarctica during the austral summer 2005/ 2006,physical properties evolution of fast ice during the ice ablation season is ana- lyzed in detail.Results show that the annual maximum ice thickness in 2005 occurred in later November,and then ice started to melt,and the ablation duration was 62 days;sea water under the ice became warmer synchronously;corresponding to the warming sea ice temperature,a"relative cold mid-layer"appeared in sea ice;the fast ice marginal line recoiled back to the shore observably,and the recoil distance was 20.9 km from 18 December 2005 through 14 January 2006.In addition,based on the data of sea ice thickness survey along the investigation course of MV Xuelong on December 18 of 2005,the ice thickness distribution paten in the marginal ice zone have been described:sea ice thickness increased,but the diversity of floe ice thick- ness decreased from open water to fast ice zone distinctly.     

Environmental controls on coastal dune formation; Skallingen Spit,Denmark

Many coastal dune systems in Western Europe were emplaced during the Little Ice Age (LIA). The formation of such dune fields has generally been ascribed to a combination of low sea level and strong winds during that time period, providing a supply of sand from the exposed shoreface and sufficient wind energy to transport this sand landward. However, little information exists on the processes that controlled sediment supply to the beach and why this onshore supply was initiated at all. In this contribution, we consider the origin and development of older dune fields on a barrier spit complex (Skallingen) located in the northern part of the Danish Wadden Sea. Maps and new data on dune litho- and chrono-stratigraphy, the latter based on OSL-dating, allow a precise estimate of the initiation and termination of dune emplacement. Dune formation at Skallingen started at a relatively late stage of the LIA and it can be temporally correlated with a phase of relative sea level rise in North Western Europe and with a high frequency of storm surges along the Danish west coast. These are the conditions during which nearshore bars currently migrate onshore across the shoreface off Skallingen. The bars eventually merge with the beach and constitute a source of sand for modern foredune accretion. It is probable that the onshore bar migration occurred under similar conditions in the past and the migration was triggered, or enhanced, by the sea level recovery from the mid-LIA low-stand and the associated frequent storm surge activity. Consequently, at Skallingen onshore sand supply was caused by marine, rather than aeolian, agents; this supply provided the basis for subsequent dune formation. Indications are, however, that the sediment supply to the beach/dunes was a factor of 2–3 larger in the past. Dune aggradation eventually ceased around 1900AD because of dyke construction. Hence, the association between dune formation and sea level/surge variation at Skallingen is somewhat contrary to other statements of coastal dune development during the LIA in North Western Europe.     

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (1) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode 1 sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth.     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙堆积——以福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程为例

海滩养护工程实施后,在保护海岸抵御侵蚀的同时往往还产生其他的环境问题。尤其在强风区海岸,海滩养护造成了滩面环境的改变,使滩面风沙搬运和沉积特征都发生了显著变化。对福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程实施前后的风沙沉积对比研究表明,养护后海滩的干滩宽度、滩面沉积物粒径、表层湿度、海滩高程等环境要素变化对滩面风沙搬运与沉积过程都产生了重要的影响。主要结论为:(1)养护海滩干滩滩肩高程的提高增加了滩面风速,增大了滩面风沙输沙率;(2)养护海滩干滩宽度的增加既扩大了风区长度也为风沙搬运提供了充足的物源,且不受潮汐过程影响,提供了持续的风沙物源供给,增加了风沙作用时间;(3)养护海滩剖面形态的变化使得海滩滩面沉积物含水率减小,降低风沙起动风速,增强了滩面风沙搬运。     

华南末次冰期盛期最低海面问题

本文从陆架残留砂、水下海滩岩、陆架残留地貌、海底岩芯、珊瑚礁沉积间断、陆域侵蚀沉积反映等方面，综合考虑海面下降、陆架均衡沉降、构造活动、海流潮流波浪的再造作用等多种因素，认为华南末次冰期盛期的最低海南可能是－８０ｍ左右。     

南极中山站附近海域固定冰的夏季变化

利用中国第21、22次南极科学考察(2004/2005、2005/2006)对中山站附近海域固定冰物理特性系统观测的结果,特别是依据其中2005年11月下旬至2006年1月下旬的现场实测数据详细分析了中山站附近海域固定冰消融过程物理性质的变化特征。结果表明:此区域固定冰从11月下旬开始消融,融冰期为62 d;同时,融冰期冰下水体温度迅速升高;在不断增强的太阳短波辐射和海洋热通量作用下,海冰温度也逐渐上升,并出现"相对冷中间层";热力和动力外强迫作用下,2005年12月18日-2006年1月14日期间此区域固定冰边缘线后退了20.9 km;另外,2005年12月18日固定冰边缘区走航冰厚监测结果还表明,边缘区海冰厚度在向岸方向有明显的增加趋势,并且随着接近海岸海冰厚度的离散程度逐渐减小。     

Evolution and Morphodynamics of a Prograded Beach‐Ridge Foreland,Northern Baffin Island,Canadian Arctic Archipelago

Landward retreat (marine transgression) is a common response of coastal systems to rising relative sea level. However, given sufficient sediment supply, the coast may advance seaward. The latter response of gravel barriers has been recorded in parts of southeastern and northwestern Canada, where seaward‐rising sets of beach ridges are observed in areas of Holocene RSL rise. Cape Charles Yorke, northern Baffin Island, is a 5 km long gravel foreland characterized by seaward‐rising beach‐ridge crest elevations. The prograded morphology of the Cape Charles Yorke foreland is a prime example of coastal response to a combination of rising RSL and abundant sediment supply, an unusual and little‐documented pattern in the Canadian Arctic. The main gravel supply to Cape Charles Yorke is likely from eroding bedrock and raised marine deposits southwest of the foreland. Although not the dominant sediment source, the Cape Charles Yorke delta contributed to the formation of the foreland by sheltering it from easterly storm waves and providing an anchor point for the prograding ridges. The truncation of relict ridges by the modern shoreline suggests a recent regime shift from continuous deposition to predominant erosion. The cause and timing of this shift are unknown but could result from a recent dwindling in sediment supply, increased accommodation space, increased wave energy, and/or an accelerated rise of relative sea level.     

中国海岸侵蚀述要

中国近代海岸侵蚀自50年代末期日渐明显,70年代末期加剧。目前约有70％的沙质海岸和大部分开敞的粉砂淤泥质海岸遭受侵蚀。人工挖沙和河流输沙减少是侵蚀发生的主要原因。海岸侵蚀已危及沿岸房舍、道路、海岸工程、旅游资源。     

Lacustrine wave-dominated clastic shorelines: modern to ancient littoral landforms and deposits from the Lake Turkana Basin (East African Rift System,Kenya)

This paper presents an overview of some of the most significant, recent to ancient, littoral morpho-sedimentary structures and deposits from the Lake Turkana Basin. We highlight the importance of wave-related sedimentary processes in lakes, and more specifically in rift lakes. In the published literature, references to wave-dominated shorelines are mainly in regards to coastal marine environments. However, numerous modern lakes exhibit typical wave-dominated littoral landforms, and related sedimentary deposits are known from several paleolake successions in the geological record. Wave-related processes are often of relatively minor importance in depositional models for lacustrine environments. Classical models emphasize clastics transported by rivers, which are then distributed by fan-deltas and/or deltas into a water body of fluctuating depth, where reworking of clastics is limited in the littoral domain, and episodic in deep waters. Modern processes in Lake Turkana and the exposed paleolake deposits of the Turkana Basin demonstrate that this view is incomplete. Wave-dominated shorelines are evident (1) for modern Lake Turkana based on prominent and active littoral landforms (e.g., beach ridges, sand spits, washover fans, and arcuate-cuspate deltas); (2) for the Holocene (African Humid Period) climate-driven highstand of Megalake Turkana and its subsequent forced regression based on conspicuous raised beach ridges and spits; and (3) for the Pliocene–Pleistocene (Omo Group, Nachukui Formation) from typical nearshore sedimentary facies and stratigraphic architectures associated with paleolake Turkana. These examples from the Turkana Basin coupled with examples from other lacustrine settings, suggest that wave-dominated clastic shorelines represent significant portions of existing and ancient lake-shores. As this view contrasts with classic depositional models for lakes, notably for those found in rift setting, we also present examples of wave-influenced littoral landforms from other lakes of the East African Rift System. Identifying lacustrine paleoshorelines from typical clastic landforms and deposits is the key to the spatial reconstruction of lakes over time, and to determine transgressive–regressive cycles. Waves action is an important agent in lakes for the erosion, transport, and deposition of clastics at the basin-scale, an aspect that needs to be integrated in sedimentary models.     

Sediment chemistry and diatom stratigraphy of two high arctic isolation lakes,Truelove Lowland,Devon Island,N.W.T., Canada

Three sediment cores from two lakes, Fish Lake and Phalarope Lake, in Truelove Lowland, Devon Island, N.W.T. were analyzed for diatoms and chemical composition. Multivariate statistical techniques using a range of chemical variables successfully isolated three sediment groupings in the cores. Allochthonous and autochthonous chemical components in the sediments have been used to reconstruct paleoenvironmental conditions. The two lakes began approximately 10600 years ago as shallow marine lagoons that were isolated from the sea as a result of glacio-isostatic rebound. Based on the presence of distinctive diatom assemblages, the three stratigraphic zones are identified as a basal marine zone, an intermediate and transitional brackish/marine zone and an upper freshwater zone. Following isolation from the sea, the lakes were flushed with freshwater produced by snow and ice melt. In Fish Lake, the period of transition from marine to freshwater, which began approximately 7000 years ago, lasted approximately 800 years. In Phalarope Lake, which was isolated from the sea approximately 5000 years ago, flushing by fresh water was completed only within the last 300 years. Fe, Cr, and Mo in the sediments are associated with the isolation phase when lake sedimentation is sensitive to the presence of brackish water and erosion within the lake catchments. In particular, the precipitation of Mo as MoS₂ reflects the presence of hypolimnetic anoxia associated with lake isolation. During the early post-isolation phase the response of lake biota to an influx of nutrients is reflected in an increase in biological silica and organic carbon in the lake sediments. On the other hand, the generally low organic content of the sediments indicates that sedimentation in these lakes has been largely determined by variations in non-biogenic factors through time. During the mid Holocene the progressive stabilization of surface materials within the lake catchments is marked by decreasing Cr, As and Na in the sediments. At the same time, an increase in allochthonous Mn and Fe is attributed to progressive soil development. During the last 2500 years the catchments have experienced decreased erosion resulting in a decrease in both allochthonous clastic input and lake productivity.     

黄河三角洲滩涂湿地夏季大型底栖动物多样性分析

2008年7月,采用野外取样和室内分离、鉴定相结合的方法,对黄河三角洲滩涂湿地底栖动物进行了调查,并利用物种丰富度指数（Margalef）、物种多样性指数（Shannon-Weiner）、均匀度指数及生态优势度指数对该湿地内4个环境梯度带9类典型生境的大型底栖动物多样性进行了分析。结果表明,黄河三角洲滩涂湿地夏季共发现大型底栖动物36种,8纲28科29属,隶属于节肢动物门、软体动物门及环节动物门;其生物量为节肢动物最高,软体动物次之,环节动物最低。随着河口滩涂湿地从水生生境过渡到旱生生境,大型底栖动物MargMef指数和Shannon—Weiner指数均呈减小趋势,表现为潮间淤泥海滩最高,芦苇（Phragmites arustralis）湿地次之,海防林带最小。均匀度指数的变化范围为0．45～1．00,表现为芦苇湿地最高,潮间淤泥海滩次之,海防林带最低。生态优势度表现为海防林带最高,盐碱滩涂次之,而水生生境的潮间淤泥海滩与芦苇湿地最低。     

Cladocerans and chironomids as indicators of lake level changes in north temperate lakes

Water level fluctuations affect the size of the pelagic zone relative to the size of littoral habitats, and thus may influence the relative abundance of remains from planktonic and littoral cladocerans in sediment. The application of this planktonic/littoral ratio for the reconstruction of past water level changes is discussed using examples of: (1) surficial profundal sediments from lakes of different water depths; (2) Holocene variation in a profundal sediment core; (3) horizontal variation in surficial sediments within a lake; and (4) long term variation in an inshore sediment core. The latter seemed to be the most promising application of this ratio. Maximum effects of water depth changes on the lake fauna are expected in the littoral zone. It is, however, difficult to read this effect directly from subfossil cladoceran and chironomid assemblages from inshore sediments as shown by a sediment profile from a site exposed to a long term decrease of water depth.     

黄河三角洲岸线及现行河口区水下地形演变

根据实测的岸线和水深数据,利用Surfer 和Mapinfo 等软件进行数据处理,结合不同阶段利津站输沙量,分析了黄河三角洲岸线及现行河口区水下地形演变。结果表明:1953-2000年,68%左右的入海泥沙淤积在口门和滨海区。由于入海流路变迁,不同岸段的岸线变化具有各自的特征。刁口河流路以西岸线基本稳定;刁口河流路以东—孤东油田以北岸线经历先淤后冲,属于强侵蚀岸段,但在防潮大堤的保护下得到人为控制下的稳定;清水沟流路形成的岸线整体向海淤进,但清8 出汊后,清水沟老河口沙嘴南侧出现侵蚀。1976-1996 年,现行河口(清水沟流路) 水下地形总体上表现为淤积,顶坡段变缓,前坡段变陡。1996-2005 年,清水沟老河口水下地形顶坡段和前坡段发生侵蚀,底坡段呈现淤积;出汊新河口水下地形继续淤积,但程度和范围都比1976-1996 年的小。孤东油田近岸侵蚀加剧。     

浙南淤泥质海岸冲淤变化和泥沙运动

本文研究了浙南北起瓯江口,南至平阳咀淤泥质海岸的冲淤演变过程,指出,岸滩每年以10—20米的速度向海淤涨。为该地区海涂的开发提供了依据。     

Bryozoan statoblasts in the recent sediments of Douglas Lake, Michigan

Statoblast valves produced by the freshwater bryozoan Plumatella nitens were recovered in three sediment cores from Douglas Lake, Michigan. Douglas Lake is a multi-depression lake of glacial origin. The region was heavily logged from 1880 to 1920. Sediment cores were taken from three of the seven depressions, and dated using 210Pb isotopes and pollen. Sedimentation rates were very low in the Grapevine Point core as compared to the other two cores. Concentrations of statoblasts ranged from three to 140 ml-1 of wet sediment. Profiles of statoblast concentrations and accumulation rates indicate a sharp decline in Plumatella populations corresponding to the time the Douglas Lake watershed was being clear-cut. It appears that logging and the resulting increase in erosion had adverse effects on bryozoan populations, and possibly on the entire littoral zone of the lake. High sediment loads to the lake could have caused mortality in Plumatella by interfering with the feeding of these animals, or by decreasing numbers of macrophytes which are frequently used as substrate. Populations of Plumatella have not recovered to pre-disturbance levels.     

Sea ice algae in the White and Barents seas: composition and origin

To examine algae populations, three expeditions (in March 2001, April 2002 and February 2003) were conducted in the Guba Chupa (Chupa Estuary; north-western White Sea), and one cruise was carried out in the open part of the White Sea in April 2003 and in the northern part of the Barents Sea in July 2001. Sea ice algae and phytoplankton composition and abundance and the content of sediment traps under the land-fast ice in the White Sea and annual and multi-year pack ice in the Barents Sea were investigated. The community in land-fast sea ice was dominated by pennate diatoms and its composition was more closely related to that of the underlying sediments than was the community of the pack ice, which was dominated by flagellates, dinoflagellates and centric diatoms. Algae were far more abundant in land-fast ice: motile benthic and ice-benthic species found favourable conditions in the ice. The pack ice community was more closely related to that of the surrounding water. It originated from plankton incorporation during sea ice formation and during seawater flood events. An additional source for ice colonization may be multi-year ice. Algae may be released from the ice during brine drainage or sea ice melting. Many sea ice algae developed spores before the ice melt. These algae were observed in the above-bottom sediment traps all year around. Three possible fates of ice algae can be distinguished: 1) suspension in the water column, 2) sinking to the bottom and 3) ingestion by herbivores in the ice, at the ice-water interface or in the water column.