Bathymetric control of surf zone retention on a rip-channelled beach

Simulations from a numerical model address the impact of nearshore morphology on surf zone retention on, open coast, rip-channelled beaches exposed to shore-normal waves. In the model, rip channels are regularly spaced alongshore with a given spacing λ. For a given reference case bathymetry (λ= 200 m), rip current circulations retain floating material at a hourly rate R of about 80 % which is in line with most existing field and laboratory studies in similar settings. The influence of a surf zone rip-channel morphology on surf zone retention is evaluated by a number of morphologic parameters. Results show that rip spacing is important. The ratio of the surf zone width X _s to rip spacing λ controls surf zone retention with R rapidly increasing with increasing X _s /λ up to a threshold of about 1 above which R levels off to become asymptotic to 100 %. The impact of the presence of a rip head bar is profound but nonlinear. The onset of wave breaking across the rip head bar drives a weak seaward located circulation providing major pathways for surface water exiting the surf zone compartment. Additional simulations suggest that alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry are important. Patterns in the wave field enforced by wave refraction and potentially wave breaking across offshore bathymetric anomalies can provide a conduit for transporting floating material out of the surf zone and into the inner shelf region. This has major implications for surf zone flushing by inner-bar rips on multiple-barred beaches and on beaches facing bathymetric anomalies on the inner shelf.     

Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology

The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (H_s) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (H_s≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches.     

Wave-driven circulation patterns in the lee of groynes

Surf zone drifters and a current meter were used to study the nearshore circulation patterns in the lee of groynes at Cottesloe Beach and City Beach in Western Australia. The circulation patterns revealed that a persistent re-circulation cell was present in the lee of the groyne which was driven by changes in wave set-up resulting from lower wave heights in the lee of the groyne. The re-circulation consisted of a longshore current directed towards the groyne which was deflected offshore due to groyne resulting in a rip current along the groyne face. The offshore-flowing rip current and the incoming waves converged at the offshore extent of this circulation cell, with the deflection of the rip current parallel to the shoreline and then completing the recirculation through an onshore component. The Eulerian measurements revealed that 55% of the currents on the lee side of the groyne were directed offshore and that these currents had a maximum speed of 2 m s^?1. Spectral analysis of the wave heights and the currents revealed several corresponding peaks in the measured spectral densities with timescales between 12 s and 50 min. Numerical simulations of an idealised beach with a shore-normal groyne were conducted using a circulation model driven by waves, and confirmed the formation of a persistent eddy in the lee of the groyne. Sensitivity studies indicated that the incident wave angle, wave period, and especially the wave height controlled the circulation. The eddy vorticity, a measure of an eddy's strength, increased roughly proportional to an increase in the incident wave energy flux.     

Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach

A field experiment was conducted on a high energy macro-tidal beach (Perranporth, UK) to examine rip current dynamics over a low-tide transverse bar/rip system in response to changing tide and wave conditions. Hydrodynamic data were collected using an array of in situ acoustic doppler current meters and pressure transducers, as well as 12 GPS-tracked Lagrangian surf zone drifters. Inter-tidal and sub-tidal morphology were measured through RTK-GPS and echo-sounder surveys. Data were collected for eight consecutive days (15 tides) over a spring-neap tidal cycle with tidal ranges of 4–6.5 m and offshore significant wave heights of 1–2 m and peak periods of 5–12 s.     

Dye dispersion in the surf zone: Measurements and simple models

To examine the spatial and temporal effect of low-volume land-based runoff on beach contamination, discrete batches of dye were released at the shoreline at three beaches in Santa Monica Bay in 2000 (Malibu Creek, Santa Monica Canyon and Pico–Kenter drain). Dye concentration was measured at the shoreline 25, 50 and 100 m alongshore from the dye release point for up to 40 min after dye release. The shoreline concentration time series are characterized either by approximately exponential decay in concentration after passage of the dye patch maximum concentration or by persistent low concentration up to 30 min after passage of the initial dye patch front. In the absence of detailed measurements of physical conditions, several simple advection–diffusion models are used to simulate shoreline concentration time series for an idealized surf zone in order to probe the roles of alongshore current shear and rip currents in producing the observed characteristics in dye concentration time series. Favorable qualitative and quantitative comparison of measured and simulated time series suggest alongshore current shear and rip currents play key roles in generating the observed characteristics of nearshore dye patch dispersion. The models demonstrate the potential effects of these flow features on the extent and duration of beach contamination owing to a continuous contamination source.     

Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: patterns and physical explanation

Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant to understand localized beach and dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm shift from hydrodynamic template models to self‐organization mechanisms occurred to explain the formation of these rhythmic features. In double sandbar systems, both the inner‐ and outer‐bar rip channels and crescentic planshapes are now believed to be free instabilities of the nearshore system arising through self‐organization mechanisms alone. However, the occasional occurrence of one or two inner‐bar rip channels within one outer‐bar crescent suggests a forced, morphologically coupled origin. Here we use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to show that alongshore variability in outer‐bar depth, and the relative importance of wave breaking versus wave focussing by refraction across the outer bar, is crucial to the inner‐bar rip channel development. The coupling patterns simulated by our model are similar to those observed in the field. Morphological coupling requires a template in the morphology (outer‐bar geometry) which, through the positive feedback between flow, sediment transport and the evolving morphology (that is, self‐organization) enforces the development of coupling patterns. We therefore introduce a novel mechanism that blurs the distinction between self‐organization and template mechanisms. This mechanism may also be extended to explain the dynamics of other nearshore patterns, such as beach cusps. The impact of this novel mechanism on the alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels is investigated in the companion paper. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semi‐diurnal and lunar tidal cycles,North Lincolnshire,England

Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (H_s < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (H_s < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Temporal and spatial behaviour of rip channels in a multiple‐barred coastal system

A 15‐month data set of daily time‐averaged video images (Argus) has been analyzed to describe the spatial and temporal variability of the rip channels on a multiple‐barred coast at Noordwijk aan Zee, The Netherlands. The landward boundary of the intertidal bars and a proxy of the subtidal bar crest, defined as the intertidal and subtidal bar lines respectively, were derived from the Argus images. Local seaward‐directed deviations of the bar lines represent the cross‐shore and alongshore locations of the rip channels. The average intertidal rip spacing ( ) was 243 m, but the rips were not spaced regularly (σ_λ/ = 0.47). Some intertidal rips were observed to fill up during falling tide, but the majority remained open. The filled intertidal rip channels had more landward positions and migrated more slowly (2.4 versus 4.6 m/day) in the alongshore direction than the open intertidal rip channels. The number and the alongshore migration rate of open intertidal rip channels increased with the preceding wave heights (r = 0.26, p < 0.01) and alongshore component of the offshore wave power (r = 0.25, p < 0.01), respectively. The shape of the intertidal bar lines was similar to the subtidal bar line shape, suggesting that the intertidal morphology is coupled to the subtidal alongshore variability. The phase of two bar lines could vary from in phase (0°) to out of phase (180°). The phase changes gradually, due to different alongshore migration rates of the intertidal and subtidal bar lines. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

State dynamics of a double sandbar system

A 9.3-year dataset of low-tide time-exposure images from Surfers Paradise, Northern Gold Coast, Australia was used to characterise the state dynamics of a double sandbar system. The morphology of the nearshore sandbars was described by means of the sequential bar state classification scheme of Wright and Short [1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93-118]. Besides the two end members (the dissipative (D) and the reflective (R) states) and the four intermediate states (longshore bar and trough (LBT), rhythmic bar and beach (RBB), transverse bar and rip (TBR) and low tide terrace (LTT)), we identified two additional intermediate bar states. The erosive transverse bar and rip (eTBR) state related to the dominant oblique angle of wave incidence at the study site and the rhythmic low tide terrace (rLTT) related to the multiple bar setting. Using the alongshore barline variability and alongshore trough continuity as morphological indicators enabled the objective classification of the inner and outer bar states from the images. The outer bar was mostly in the TBR state and generally advanced sequentially through the states LBT-RBB-TBR-eTBR-LBT, with occasional transitions to the D state. Wave events led to abrupt state transitions of the outer bar, but, in contrast to expectations, did not necessarily correspond to upstate transitions. Instead, upstate (downstate) transitions coincided with angles of wave incidence θ larger (smaller) than 30°. The upstate TBR-eTBR-LBT sequence during high-angle events highlights the role of alongshore currents in bar straightening. The outer bar was found to govern the state of the inner bar to a large extent. Two types of inner bar behaviour were distinguished, based on the outer bar state. For intermediate outer bar states, the alongshore variability of the dominant inner rLTT state (52% in time) mainly related to that of the outer bar, implying some sort of morphological coupling. For dissipative outer bar states, however, the more upstate inner bar frequently separated from the shoreline and persistently developed rip channels as TBR became the most frequent state (60% in time).     

Suspended-sediment transport in the surf zone: response to breaking waves

A field experiment designed to investigate the influence of wave breaking on suspended-sediment transport was conducted at Duck, NC, from 6 to 9 September 1985. Arrays of optical backscatter sensors, electromagnetic current meters and pressure sensors were deployed at five positions on a shore-normal transect that spanned the surf zone. At each position measurements were made of cross-shore and longshore velocity, sea-surface fluctuations, and suspended sediment at five levels above the bed. Experimental data runs were conducted when incident swell waves ( H_s = 0.5m, T= 10–12s) broke (primarily plunging) within the experimental transect. This paper describes the spatial characteristics of the plunge-to-bore tranformation region and describes (1) the cross-shore variability of sediment resuspension, including the mean concentrations and mean suspended load; (2) the net longshore and cross-shore flux across the surf zone; (3) mean suspended-sediment profiles as a function of wave type, e.g. plunging, spilling and bore, and unbroken at four positions across the surf zone; and (4) discusses the relative contribution of each wave type to the net longshore and cross-shore sediment flux.     

Divergent response of an intertidal swash bar

This paper examines the processes responsible for the morphodynamics of an intertidal swash bar at Skallingen, Denmark, during seven successive storms (one with a large surge of +3·02 m DNN). During this period a subtidal bar migrated landward onto the foreshore and continued to migrate across the intertidal zone as a swash bar. The onshore migration of the inner subtidal bar resulted from the erosion of sediment from the upper foreshore and dune ramp during the large storm surge that was transported seaward, causing the landward displacement of the bar through accretion on the landward slope. The magnitude and direction of suspended sediment transport within the intertidal zone, and more specifically at and close to the crest of the swash bar, varied with the ratio of both the significant (H_s) and average (H_avg) wave heights to the water depth (h_cr) at the swash bar crest (the local depth minimum). The transition between onshore and offshore suspended sediment transport was associated with the average wave of the incident distribution breaking on the swash bar crest (H_avgh ≈ 0·33). While the onshore‐directed transport was largest at infragravity frequencies, sediment resuspension was best explained by the skewed accelerations under the surf bores. Offshore transport was dominated by the cross‐shore mean currents (undertow) that developed when the significant wave of the distribution broke on the swash bar crest (H_sh ≈ 0·33) and weakened as the average wave of the distribution started to break at the crest (H_avgh ≈ 0·33) and the surf zone approached saturation. In contrast to subtidal bars, the swash bar at Skallingen exhibited a divergent behaviour with respect to the cross‐shore position of the breaker zone, migrating onshore when the average wave broke seaward of the crest and migrating offshore when the average wave broke landward of the crest. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A new instability mechanism related to high-angle waves

Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric perturbations extending offshore in the shoaling zone. Here, we explore a different mechanism where the large incidence angle is supposed to occur at breaking and the bathymetric perturbations occur only in the surf zone. For wave incidence angles at breaking above ≈?45^°, the one-line approximation of coastal dynamics predicts an unstable shoreline. This instability (EHAWI) is scale-free and the growth rate increases without bound for decreasing wavelength. Here we use a 2DH morphodynamic model resolving surf zone instabilities to investigate whether EHAWI could approximate a real instability in nature with a characteristic length scale. Assuming very idealized conditions on the bathymetric profile and sediment transport, we find a 2DH instability mode consisting of shore-oblique up-current bars coupled to a meandering of the longshore current. This mode grows for high-angle waves, above about 30^° (offshore) and the maximum growth rate occurs for the angle maximizing the angle at breaking, about 70^° (offshore). The dominant wavelength is of the order of the surf zone width. Interestingly, for long sand waves, the growth rate never becomes negative and it matches very well the anti-diffusive behavior of EHAWI. This distinguishes the present instability mode from other modes found in previous studies for other bathymetric and sediment transport conditions. Thus, we conclude that EHAWI approximates a real morphodynamic instability only for quite particular conditions. In such case, a characteristic length scale of the instability emerges thanks to surf zone processes that damp short wavelengths.     

A cross-shore suspended sediment transport shape function parameterisation for natural beaches

A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (h_b) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through h_b. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone.     

On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics

The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.     

Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 2: impact on alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels

Double sandbar systems are common morphological features along sandy, wave‐dominated, micro‐ to meso‐tidal coastlines. In the companion paper, we demonstrated how various alongshore inner‐bar rip‐channel patterns can develop through morphological coupling to an alongshore‐variable outer bar. The simulated coupling patterns are, however, scarcely observed in the field. Instead, inner‐bar rip channels more often possess remarkably smaller and more variable alongshore length scales, suggesting that coupling mechanisms do not play a substantial role in the overall double‐sandbar dynamics. Here we use a numerical model to show that the relative importance of self‐organization and morphological coupling changes in favour of the latter with an increase in waterdepth variability along the outer‐bar crest. Furthermore, we find that the typical alongshore variability in inner‐bar rip‐channel scale is indicative of a mixture of self‐organization and morphological coupling rather than self‐organization alone. Morphological coupling may thus be more important to understanding and predicting the evolution of inner‐bar rip channels than previously envisaged. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Field observations of nearshore bar formation

The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Tidal mixing in sill regions: influence of sill depth and aspect ratio

A non-hydrostatic model in cross-sectional form with an idealized sill is used to examine the influence of sill depth (h _s) and aspect ratio upon internal motion. The model is forced with a barotropic tide and internal waves and mixing occurs at the sill. Calculations using a wide sill and quantifying the response using power spectra show that for a given tidal forcing namely Froude number F _r as the sill depth (h _s) increases the lee wave response and vertical mixing decrease. This is because of a reduction in across sill velocity U _s due to increased depth. Calculations show that the sill Froude number F _s based on sill depth and across sill velocity is one parameter that controls the response at the sill. At low F _s (namely F _s ≪ 1) in the wide sill case, there is little lee wave production, and the response is in terms of internal tides. At high F _s, calculations with a narrow sill show that for a given F _s value, the lee wave response and internal mixing increase with increasing aspect ratio. Calculations using a narrow sill with constant U _s show that for small values of h _s, a near surface mixed layer can occur on the downstream side of the sill. For large values of h _s, a thick well-mixed bottom boundary layer occurs due to turbulence produced by the lee waves at the seabed. For intermediate values of h _s, “internal mixing” dominates the solution and controls across thermocline mixing.     

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point,northern ireland

Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.     

Field measurements of shear stress and friction in the surf zone

Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, f_w, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.