空波包理论在海浪群性研究中的应用

用 Monte Carlo方法数值模拟海浪 ,研究其波包曲线跨某参考水平的波包中空波包所占的平均比例 ,并与 Ditlevsen和 L indgren关于空波包的理论相比较。结果表明 ,在二阶近似下该理论近似适用于海浪。在此基础上对 Longuet- Higgins的群性波包理论进行修正。修正后的理论与数值结果的比较表明本文所做的修正是十分有效的。修正后的群性波包理论克服了原理论的某些固有缺陷     

Approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear waves in wave flumes

An approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear regular waves in flumes is presented. This theory is based on an ad hoc unified wave-generation method that combines linear fully dispersive wavemaker theory and wave generation for non-linear shallow water waves. This is done by applying a dispersion correction to the paddle position obtained for non-linear long waves. The method is validated by a number of wave flume experiments while comparing with results of linear wavemaker theory, second-order wavemaker theory and Cnoidal wavemaker theory within its range of application.     

Comparison of Linear Level I Green-Naghdi Theory with Linear Wave Theory for Prediction of Hydroelastic Responses of VLFS

Very Large Floating Structures (VLFS) have drawn considerable attention recently due to their potential significance in the exploitation of ocean resources and in the utilization of ocean space. Efficient and accurate estimation of their hydroelastic responses to waves is very important for the design. Recently, an efficient numerical algorithm was developed by Ertekin and Kim (1999). However, in their analysis, the linear Level I Green-Naghdi (GN) theory is employed to describe fluid dynamics instead of the conventional linear wave (LW) theory of finite water depth. They claimed that this linear level I GN theory provided betler predictions of the hydroelastic responses of VLFS than the linear wave theory. In this paper, a detailed derivation is given in the conventional linear wave theory framework with the same quantity as used in the linear level I GN theory framework. This allows a critical comparison between the linear wave theory and the linear level I GN theory. it is found that the linear level     

Monthly variation of some parameters about internal solitary waves in the South China sea

In this paper, by non-dimensional analysis, it is found that finite-depth theory is more appropriate to the study of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the South China Sea (SCS) than shallow-water theory. The 1-degree grid data of monthly mean temperature and salinity data at standard levels in the SCS are used to solve the linearized vertical eigenvalue problem. The nonlinear parameter and the wave phase speed are computed, then the nonlinear phase speed and the characteristic half-width of ISWs are calculated respectively by two different theories to investigate the difference between these two parameters in the SCS. The nonlinearity is the strongest near the continental slope of the SCS or islands where the bottom topography changes sharply, it is stronger in summer than that in winter; it increases (decreases) as pycnocline depth deepens (shallows), stratification strengthens (weakens) and pycnocline thickness thins (thickens). The nonlinear wave phase speed and the characteristic half-width are the largest in deep sea area, they then reduce peripherally in shallower water. The nonlinear wave phase speed in the SCS changes slightly with time, but the characteristic half-width changes somewhat larger with time. In most of the SCS basin, the nonlinear wave phase speed derived from shallow-water theory is very close to that derived from finite-depth theory, but the characteristic half-width derived from shallow-water theory is about 0.2–0.6 times larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. The ISW induced horizontal current velocity derived from shallow-water theory is larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. Some observed and numerical modeled ISW characteristic half-widths are compared with those derived from shallow-water and finite-depth theories, respectively. It is shown that, the characteristic half-widths derived from finite-depth theory agree better with observational and numerical modeled results than those derived from shallow-water theory in most cases, finite-depth theory is more applicable to the estimation of ISW characteristic half-widths in the northern SCS. It is also suggested that, to derive the precise ISW parameters in further study, the physical non-dimensional ratios which are related with ISW characteristic half-width, amplitude, thermocline and water depths should be calculated, so that an appropriate theory can be chosen for estimation.     

The hydrofoil in surface proximity, theory and experiment

Results of an experimental study of the effect of surface proximity on hydrofoil lift are presented. The biplane image theory, a horseshoe vortex model and momentum theory are described in relation to the effect of surface proximity on hydrofoil lift and drag. The biplane image theory and the horseshoe vortex model are shown to predict the same effect on lift, and are seen to be in good agreement with the experimental data. The Payne momentum theory is seen to differ significantly from the measured results. The data indicate a significant reduction in lift at depths less than two chords with very little effect at greater depth.     

Ray theory for predicting hydroelastic behavior of a very large floating structure in waves

The conceptual design of a very large floating structure (VLFS) requires a convenient computer code for predicting hydroelastic behavior of it. The code should not be time consuming, but it should be flexible for all environmental conditions. In order to meet the needs, we apply the ray theory for predicting hydroelastic behavior of a mat-like VLFS. The hydroelastic behavior of the VLFS is treated as wave propagation in the platform. The theory itself is based on the classical ray theory, which yields a quick computational scheme. The parabolic approximation is applied to smoothing the discontinuous deformation obtained by the classical ray theory. An experimental technique in a small wave tank with a mini scale model has been developed. Through comparisons with the mini scale experiment and other data found in literatures, it is confirmed that the ray theory has enough accuracy for the conceptual design, unless the assumptions of the ray theory are completely violated.     

Wind-wave power available to a wave energy converter array

A theoretical expression of the wave power striking a rectilinear array of wave energy convertion devices in a random sea is derived. The theory is then applied to a linear array which is 1 km in length. For purposes of illustration, the Pierson-Neumann-James directional spectrum is used to represent the random sea. Comparison of the results obtained by using the present theory with those obtained from the previously accepted theory shows significant differences. First, the maximum available power predicted by the present theory is 75% of that predicted by the former theory. Secondly, power transmission is predicted when the wind direction and the array axis are parallel, whereas no power transmission was formerly predicted for this condition.     

Fixed-frequency Stokes wave expansion

The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method.     

Establishment of Numerical Wave Flume Based on the Second-Order Wave-Maker Theory

With growing computational power, the first-order wave-maker theory has become well established and is widely used for numerical wave flumes. However, existing numerical models based on the first-order wave-maker theory lose accuracy as nonlinear effects become prominent. Because spurious harmonic waves and primary waves have different propagation velocities, waves simulated by using the first-order wave-maker theory have an unstable wave profile. In this paper, a numerical wave flume with a piston-type wave-maker based on the second-order wave-maker theory has been established. Dynamic mesh technique was developed. The boundary treatment for irregular wave simulation was specially dealt with. Comparisons of the free-surface elevations using the first-order and second-order wave-maker theory prove that second-order wave-maker theory can generate stable wave profiles in both the spatial and time domains. Harmonic analysis and spectral analysis were used to prove the superiority of the second-order wave-maker theory from other two aspects. To simulate irregular waves, the numerical flume was improved to solve the problem of the water depth variation due to low-frequency motion of the wave board. In summary, the new numerical flume using the second-order wave-maker theory can guarantee the accuracy of waves by adding an extra motion of the wave board. The boundary treatment method can provide a reference for the improvement of nonlinear numerical flume.     

大地构造理论研究的历史、现状与发展

本文概述了近２００年来大地构造理论建立与发展历史。当今大地构造理论研究的现状,各种学派的理论观点,特别是板块构造理论在地学革命中对大地构造理论发展的影响,随之产生的地体构造和新的全球构造观。尽管板块构造理论曾一度占据主导地位,但有关大陆构造、全球构造、造山作用和运动机制等一些基本问题尚未得到完满的解决。７０年代以来,国际上开展一系列重大调查研究计划,使地球科学朝着“广、精、深”方向发展,这将有力地     

Nonlinear wave interaction with a vertical circular cylinder: wave forces

Second-order wave forces on a large diameter vertical circular cylinder, computed according to a semi-analytic nonlinear diffraction theory, are compared to results of 22 laboratory experiments with regular waves. In general, predicted forces agree quite well with measured forces. In most tests, both measured and predicted maximum forces exceeded linear theory by 5 to 15%. In a few cases, however, the measured forces were less than those predicted by linear theory, in contrast to the second-order predictions. It is shown that these results are related to the phasing of various linear and nonlinear wave force components, and are consistent with those obtained by other investigators.     

吕宋海峡深层水体体积输运的诊断分析

使用WOD09, WOA05, WOA01和SODA四种水文数据,利用水力学理论对吕宋海峡的深层水体体积输运进行了估计。结果表明：由于忽略了摩擦和地形等因素的影响,水力学理论得到的输运结果是深层体积输运的上限。不同数据以及吕宋海峡东西两侧选取的不同区域,都对水力学理论的体积输运估计存在显著影响。SODA数据在吕宋海峡附近的深层海区存在偏差,得到体积输运估计明显偏大,因而不适用于水力学理论进行吕宋海峡深层水体体积输运的估计。为对于南海的环流、混合及生态环境存在重要影响的吕宋海峡深层水体体积输运进行合理估计,对利用水力学理论估计深层水体体积输运的研究方法做了进一步探讨。     

Simplified analysis of offshore piles under cyclic lateral loads

A simple theory for predicting the response to cyclic lateral loading of piles deeply driven in either soft clay or sand is presented and formulas given for calculating, among other things, deflection and internal bending moment along the pile. The theory assumes the soil resistance to deflection to be characterized by an initial elastic reaction up to a critical deflection level, followed by a yield reaction independent of further deflection. Soil parameters are estimated and the theory is shown to provide good correlation with existing field data.     

国内北极问题研究的理论和方法综述

为对北极地区进行更深入和更细致的探索,助力我国参与北极事务和开发利用北极资源,越来越多的国内学者对北极问题展开研究。文章梳理国内北极问题研究的理论和方法,并分别从来源、应用和展望等方面对现有理论和方法进行分析和总结。研究结果表明:国内北极问题研究的理论主要包括渐进决策理论、地缘政治理论和地缘势理论、通权论和“通实力”理论、国际公共品理论和公共价值管理理论以及多层治理理论和协同治理理论,方法主要包括定性分析方法、定量分析方法、定性与定量相结合的分析方法以及多学科交融的新型方法;基于相关理论和方法尚缺乏纵向支撑、系统体系和量化分析的现状,未来北极问题研究的发展趋势为研究体系增强系统性、学科交融、研究理论富于实用性以及研究方法融入更多量化分析。     

Characteristics of oceanic mesoscale variabilities associated with the inverse kinetic energy cascade

Oceanic geostrophic turbulence theory predicts significant inverse kinetic energy(KE) cascades at scales larger than the energy injection wavelength. However, the characteristics of the mesoscale variabilities associated with the inverse KE cascade in the real oceans have not been clear enough up to now. To further examine this problem,we analyzed the spectral characteristics of the oceanic mesoscale motions over the scales of inverse KE cascades based on high-resolution gridded altimeter data. The applicability of the quasigeostrophic(QG) turbulence theory and the surface quasigeostrophic(SQG) turbulence theory in real oceans is further explored. The results show that the sea surface height(SSH) spectral slope is linearly related to the eddy-kinetic-energy(EKE) level with a high correlation coefficient value of 0.67. The findings also suggest that the QG turbulence theory is an appropriate dynamic framework at the edge of high-EKE regions and that the SQG theory is more suitable in tropical regions and low-EKE regions at mid-high latitudes. New anisotropic characteristics of the inverse KE cascade are also provided. These results indicate that the along-track spectrum used by previous studies cannot reveal the dynamics of the mesoscale variabilities well.     

扩展的证据理论在遥感影像围填海检测中的应用

针对全国海域使用情况的监测需求,本文应用扩展的证据理论进行围填海区域检测,预设类别空间为{围填海,海水}。实验结果显示基于扩展的证据理论不仅能够较准确地检测出围填海区域,而且将浅海中的水下沙脊或小岛划分为不确定的未知类别。说明扩展的证据理论能够更好地完成围填海的检测,体现了扩展的证据理论解决实际问题的能力,同时,也为全海域的围填海监测提供了新的思路和扩展空间。     

计算波浪飘移阻尼的一种切片理论方法

本文利用Ｇｅｒｒｉｔｓｍａ波浪阻力增加公式，导出一种基于切片理论的波浪漂移阻尼的计算方法。与现有理论和试验结果比较证实具有工程一致性。可以指出，这是一种简单使用，便于推广的应用的理论方法。     

THE DISTRIBUTION OF SIGNIFICANT CREST HEIGHTS OF SEA WAVES

Based on linear theory of sea waves, the height distribution of the intersections of wave surface with its envelope is derived. The distribution may be regarded as that of the significant crest heights under certain conditions. Some properties of this distribution are discussed in analogy to maxima theory. Data are found to be in good agreement with the theoretical curve.     

Tsunami simulation with Green–Naghdi theory

Green–Naghdi (GN) theory is a fully nonlinear wave theory which has been used with success to simulate nonlinear water waves. In previous applications of GN theory to water wave problems the ocean bottom was assumed to be time invariant. In this work no such restriction is made and GN theory is used to simulate tsunami caused by bottom fluctuation. As first test cases we simulate two-dimensional nonlinear surface waves generated by positive bottom movements. The results in the generation region for three different seabed movements compare well against earlier experimental data. The results in the downstream region for impulsive seabed movements show some discrepancies in wave phase and amplitude compared with earlier experimental values. It is suspected that the viscous effects may have played a role. The GN theory is then used to study three-dimensional near-field tsunami amplitudes caused by submarine landslides and slumps spreading in two orthogonal directions. The GN results agree with previous linear solution very well when the ratio of the velocities is v₁/v₂=1.0. But GN theory give more believable results for the case of v_T/v=0.1 and v₁/v₂=0.1.     

Second-order wave maker theory using force-feedback control. Part II: An experimental verification of regular wave generation

This paper provides an experimental verification of the new wave maker theory outlined by Spinneken and Swan [2009. Second-order wave maker theory using forcefeedback control. Part I. A new theory for regular wave generation. Ocean Engineering, in press, doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2009.01.019]. This theory concerns the generation of regular waves by a flap-type wave maker using force-feedback control, providing the first quantitative evidence of the inherent advantages of this latter approach. When the wave maker is controlled by a first-order force command signal, comparisons between the theory and experimental observations confirm two key points: (i) The first-order behaviour is crucial for the absorption characteristics of the machine. (ii) The second-order behaviour leads to a spurious, or unwanted, freely propagating second harmonic that is substantially smaller in amplitude when compared to an identical wave paddle operating with first-order position control. Both aspects of this work, effective absorption and reduced second-order spurious wave generation, are investigated over a broad range of wave frequencies and shown to be widely applicable. Furthermore, the theory also provides a force command signal correct to second order. This is introduced in a separate set of experiments and shown to provide further improvement in the quality of the wave generation.