完全非线性孤立波的稳态解

报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播,给急剧记解的波形,流束和数值计算结果。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播是有铲的。当ａ／ｈ〉０．３时,自由液面上的水平流速、底部流速和垂向平均流速之间的差别是明显的。三阶Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近本文完全非线性的数值解。     

孤立波对礁坪上直墙冲击试验和RANS数值模拟

在有、无礁冠两种典型岛礁剖面地形上开展孤立波冲击礁坪上直墙的二维水槽试验和数值模拟研究。通过OpenFOAM结合k-ε湍流模型进行RANS数值模拟,基于试验数据和验证后的RANS模拟结果,研究了岛礁剖面上孤立波传播的水动力特性及其对直墙的作用,并探讨了礁冠的存在对直墙所受冲击的影响。结果表明:RANS(k-ε)模型能够准确还原孤立波在岛礁地形上的主要传播特征,但在波浪破碎的情况下,RANS数值模拟不够精细,尤其对直墙所受瞬击荷载的捕捉能力欠缺;礁冠的存在,增强了波浪反射,使得波浪提前破碎,减小了直墙上的波浪爬升和最大动压。     

斜向不规则波对直墙作用的实验研究

通过长峰不规则波和方向波谱对直墙作用的实验研究 ,分别给出了每延米斜向不规则波波浪力与正向力之比 ,方向波谱波浪力与斜向长峰不规则波波浪力之间的关系 ,通过与规则波实验结果的比较给出了斜向规则波与不规则波波浪力之间的相对关系 ;并对斜向不规则波的反射系数与正向波时的变化作出了分析     

完全非线性深水波的数值模拟

基于势流理论,并结合深水波质点运动从水面向下呈e指数衰减的特性,建立了完全非线性数值变深水槽模型,通过实时模拟活塞式造波机运动来产生波浪.采用时域高阶边界元法进行模拟,利用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法追踪流体瞬时水面,应用镜像格林函数消除了水槽两个侧面的积分,在水槽末端布置人工阻尼层来消除反射...     

无限水深聚焦波完全非线性数值模拟

基于势流理论提出一种新的高阶边界元方法对无限水深的聚焦波浪进行完全非线性数值模拟.自由水面满足完全非线性边界条件,模拟波浪的非线性效果可以达到更高阶.利用镜像原理,建立一种全新的格林函数应用到无限水深的数值波浪水槽中,以致于两无限深水槽侧壁的积分可以被排除.为了产生相应的入射波和吸收出流波浪,一个由点源组成的造波装置被布置于计算域内,同时人工阻尼层被用来吸引出流波浪,由波浪聚焦的方法得到极限波浪.通过开展线性和完全非线性聚焦波浪的数值实验及与理论解对比,验证本数值模型可以用来模拟无限深水域的极限波浪,且在出流边界没有反射.     

破碎立波对直墙建筑物作用机理的研究

建立二维非线性数值波浪水槽,模拟了规则波条件下破碎立波对直墙建筑物的作用.从直墙上压力分布和各测点的压力过程线等方面与物理模型实验结果进行比较,讨论了破碎立波的作用特点,分析了压力过程线出现马鞍形变化的原因.将破碎立波波浪力与按规范方法和立渡理论方法计算的结果进行了比较.通过对计算结果的的分析比较,验证了该数值模型的有效性.     

基于InterDyMFoam的潜礁孤立波传播数值模拟

建立了基于OpenFOAM动边界的类fixedValuePointPatchVectorField继承的仿物理造波数值波浪水槽。对孤立波在三种不同潜礁地形上的行进、爬坡以及破碎等典型过程进行数值模拟,模拟结果与Boussinesq模型及物理模型试验所得结果进行了对比分析。结果表明,采用动边界进行仿物理造波更适合处理波高水深比较大的孤立波传播问题,可以较好地模拟孤立波在潜礁上传播引起的波浪破碎、水跃等现象。     

部分反射直墙前二维物体的绕射和辐射问题

基于映像理论将部分反射直墙前物体的散射问题,等效于开敞水域中原物体的散射和关于直墙映像体散射的线性叠加进行求解。采用高阶边界元方法建立了部分反射直墙前二维任意形状物体波浪绕射和辐射问题的数值分析模型,通过与已发表的海底方箱和淹没圆柱结果的对比验证了数值模型的准确性。应用该模型研究了直墙反射系数幅值及相位、方箱与墙间距离等参数对水面方箱上波浪激振力、附加质量和辐射阻尼的影响。结果表明：直墙反射系数幅值越大,波浪激振力、附加质量和辐射阻尼的波动越大,附加质量在一些频率下出现负值;相位角的变化会改变波浪激振力、附加质量和辐射阻尼曲线的偏移,在低频区对升沉附加质量有显著影响;方箱距离直墙越远,方箱上的波浪激振力、附加质量和辐射阻尼随波数振荡的频率越快,峰值频率向低频侧移动。     

孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究

针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。     

非线性弱色散波内部流场的重构

基于势流理论和级数直接求逆方法,本文建立了基于Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程或Ｇｒｅｅｎ－Ｎａｇｈｄｉ方程给出的水深平均流速或某特征流速及波面信息重构非线性弱色散波内部流场的算法。以Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的孤立波解为例,用本反演方法计算了孤立波的表面水平流速及底部水平流速。结果表明本算法是有效的。本反演算法可用于获取非线性弱色散波的内部流场的详细信息。     

Bragg reflection in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank based on boundary integral equation method

We investigated the phenomenon of Bragg reflection of submerged structures in a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the boundary integral equation method (BIEM). This model was validated by comparing not only the free surface elevations with that of the analytic solution of Stokes’ second-order wave theory, but also the reflection coefficients of submerged bars with that from other sources. The results of the present model show that the free surface nonlinear effect on the reflection coefficient of the primary resonance reduces significantly for all of the submerged bars considered. Finally, a case study is presented to demonstrate the reflecting capacity and overall performance of various submerged bars. Results indicate that sinusoidal bar has the maximum reflection capacity at the primary resonance, but the trapezoidal submerged bar is suggested as the better option for the practical convenience of coastal underwater construction.     

孤立波低顶海堤越浪的数值模拟研究

灾害性波浪是中国沿海地区最具破坏性的自然灾害之一。采用开源程序OpenFOAM中interFoam求解器,对低顶海堤（在风暴潮和海平面上升情况下所面临的不利工况）的孤立波越浪特性开展数值模拟研究。通过孤立波冲击海堤的基准算例,验证模型在模拟波浪爬升和越浪过程中大变形波面以及剧烈波浪力方面的精度。基于验证的数值模型,对孤立波在低顶海堤上的越浪特征以及防浪墙高度对越浪的影响开展参数化研究。结果表明堤顶超高减小导致更为剧烈的越浪。针对尚无低顶海堤孤立波越浪量经验公式的问题,提出新的适用于堤顶超高小或为0的孤立波越浪量经验公式。此外,研究发现增加防浪墙高度可有效减少越浪,但防浪墙所受的波浪力也增大。综合考虑防浪墙减少越浪以及自身所受波浪力,针对文中研究采用的海堤截面和波浪条件,建议无量纲防浪墙高度取为1.00。     

An investigation on internal solitary waves in a two-layer fluid: Propagation and reflection from steep slopes

Experimental investigations on internal solitary wave (ISW) propagation and their reflection from a smooth uniform slope were conducted in a two-layered fluid system with a free surface. A 12-meter-long wave flume was in use which incorporated with: (1) a movable vertical gate for generating ISW; (2) six ultrasonic probes for measuring the fluctuation of an ISW; and (3) a steep uniform slope (from one of θ=30°, 50°, 60°, 90°, 120° and 130°) much greater than those ever published in the literature. This paper presents the wave profile properties of the ISW recorded in the flume and their nonlinear features in comparison with the existing Korteweg de Vries (KdV) and modified Korteweg-de Vries (MKdV) theories. Experimental results show that the KdV theory is suitable for most small-amplituded ISWs and MKdV theory is appropriate for the reflected ISWs from various uniform slopes. In addition, both the amplitude-based reflection coefficient and reflected energy approach a constant value asymptotically when plotted against the slope and the characteristic length ratio, respectively. The reflected wave amplitudes calculated from experimental data agree well with those reported elsewhere. The optimum reflection coefficient is found within the limit of 0.85 for wave amplitude, among the test runs from steep normal slope of 30° to inverse angle of 130°, and around 0.75 for the reflected wave energy, produced by an ISW on a vertical wall.     

孤立波特性的实验室模拟

孤立波是浅海水域中经常出现的一种波动现象,常用来描述海啸和风暴等引起的巨浪以及波长较长的表面波的某些特性。采用"水体瞬间坍塌"的方法产生孤立波,在二维波浪水槽内进行系列实验。实验结果表明,产生的孤立波波高与水深之比可达1.29;箱体宽度及箱内水体高度对波高影响较大;得到孤立波波高计算公式,可较好地反映孤立波波高与箱体宽度、水深和箱内水体高度之间的变化关系,并给出了公式的适用范围。     

内孤立波与海脊相互作用的模拟研究

A nonhydrostatic numerical model was developed and numerical experiments performed on the interaction of an internal solitary wave(ISW) with a sill, for a two-layer fluid with a diffusive interface. Based on the blocking parameter(Br), the flow was classified into three cases:(1) when bottom topography has little influence on the propagation and spatial structure of the ISW(Br0.5),(2) where the ISW is distorted significantly by the blocking effect of the topography(though no wave breaking occurs,(0.5Br0.7), and(3) where the ISW is broken as it encounters and passes over the bottom topography(0.7Br). The numerical results obtained here are consistent with those obtained in laboratory experiments. The breaking process of the incident ISW when Br≈0.7 was completely reproduced. Dissipation rate was linearly related to the blocking parameter when Br0.7, and the maximum dissipation rate could reach about 34% as Br raised to about 1.0. After that, instead of breaking, more reflection happened. Similarly, breaking induced mixing was also most effective during Br around 1.0, and can be up to 0.16.     

Long wave reflection from submerged trapezoidal breakwaters

This study addresses the reflection and transmission of long waves from a trapezoidal breakwater and a series of trapezoidal breakwaters, using the matching method. A systematic shape transfer is derived to determine wave reflection and transmission. The peak Bragg reflection of long waves from a series of trapezoidal breakwaters is shifted toward low frequency. In spite of the spacing between any pair of breakwaters, the top plane width and the arrangement of the series of breakwaters are found to be the two major parameters in designing multiply composite Bragg breakwaters.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

Wave prediction in a port using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model

A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port.