Experimental validation of a CFD model using a narrow wave flume

Induced swell is characterized in an experimental wave flume that is used to validate the corresponding computational model. The experiments and the numerical simulations are performed in water at several depths (h [m] of 0.2, 0.1, and 0.07), using a piston-type wave maker at set amplitudes (0.015 < A_p [m] < 0.15), accelerations-decelerations (0.3 < a_p < 1.0) and average velocities (0.03 < U [m/s] < 0.3) that control the propagation velocity, the period and the wavelength of the waves. The physical effects are modelled with a 2D computational model (STAR-CCM + v11.02) with a mesh of around 630,000 cells of different adaptive sizes, depending on the region under consideration. The physical model is based on a two-phase Eulerian “Volume of Fluid” unsteady model, accounting for gravity and surface tension, that characterizes turbulence with a k-ε model. A user-defined function, based on the period and the amplitude of the vertical paddle in the wave maker, describes the cyclic motion of the linear induction motor. Both the experimental and the computational results are analyzed taking the validity limits of various wave theories as a reference (Le Méhauté). As a result, the experiments are classified within the intermediate water depth regime that corresponds to the second-order Stokes’ wave theory. In addition, both the wave propagation velocity and the period are represented as a function of the wavelength and compared with the analytical solutions from the wave theories. The experimental and the computational test campaign yielded results that confirmed the validity of the computational model and that defined the most appropriate conditions for a high-quality CFD simulation.     

Assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a spectral wave model using statistical interpolation

A scheme for the assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a second generation wave prediction model is developed. The scheme modifies the model wave spectrum so as to be consistent with the satellite observed values of significant wave height. This modification is achieved, however, so that the adjusted wave field is consistent with the model physics and the forcing wind field. In this manner the modifications to the wave field persist in the model, thus yielding long term improvements in model performance. In addition, a statistical interpolation scheme is used to ensure that maximum use is made of the point observations made by the satellite. In this manner, not only points directly beneath the satellite track are updated. Points adjacent to the track are also modified, the extent of this modification depending on the spatial correlation of the wave field. The scheme is applied to a computationally efficient second generation wave model. The improvement in performance is significant, demonstrating that assimilation may be a very efficient alternative to proceeding to more sophisticated and expensive third generation models. This is particularly true where the forcing wind field may be of poor quality. The results also demonstrate that with the addition of assimilation, relatively small computational grids can be utilized. Swell generated external to the grid will be included through the assimilation cycle.     

Wave prediction in a port using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model

A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port.     

A note on wave action conservation in a dissipative current wave motion

We consider steady, slowly varying water waves propagating on a steady current over a gently sloping bed, so-called current depth refraction. All expressions are correct to second order in wave amplitude. Formulating the energy equation for the fluctuating motion in terms of wave action (wave energy divided by intrinsic angular frequency) results in an expression, where the dissipative term is strikingly similar to wave action itself. It is simply the ‘extra’ dissipation (per unit area) caused by the fluctuating motion (i.e. total dissipation minus the effect of current acting on total mean bed shear stress) divided by the intrinsic angular frequency. We call it ‘wave action dissipation’. An inconsistency in Phillips' (1977) book is pointed out. A new formula for the calculation of wave amplitudes along rays is set forth.     

Approximation of wave forces on cylinder arrays

An approximate method for the estimation of wave forces on groups of fixed vertical cylinders is presented. The method is based upon a large spacing approximation and involves replacing scattered diverging waves by plane waves. The method is shown to give good results when compared with an exact method, even when the spacing is small. Some new results for a group of five cylinders are presented.     

大气-海浪耦合模式对台风“碧利斯”的数值模拟

本文将海表粗糙度作为耦合大气、海浪模式的重要因子,实现中尺度大气模式MM5(V3)和第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCHⅢ的双向耦合,建立充分考虑大气、海浪相互作用的大气.海浪耦合模式.将该大气-海浪耦合模式应用于对0604次台风"碧利斯"的数值模拟,在耦合模式中引入Smith92海表粗糙度参数化方案,探讨其对台风和台风浪的影响.研究结果表明,大气-海浪耦合模式能够抓住台风过程的总体特征.Smith92海表粗糙度参数化方案对台风路径影响不大.但在台风系统强度的模拟上影响明显,采用Smith92方案使得台风系统强度显著增强,对台风系统强度的模拟有明显改善.同样,大气-海浪耦合模式能够很好的模拟台风过程中海浪的传播和演变.采用Smith92方案使得海面有效波高明显增高,对海面有效波高的模拟有一定程度改善.因此,在大气-海浪耦合模式中恰当的选择海表粗糙度参数化对改进大气-海浪耦合模式的模拟效果是很有意义的.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。     

基于WW3模式的一次台风浪过程中掠海飞行器的击水概率分析

以CCMP风场驱动WW3海浪模式,对发生在2010年9月的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,并就台风浪对整个中国海击水概率的影响进行计算,为提高掠海飞行器的生存能力提供参考。结果表明:(1)以CCMP风场作为WW3模式的驱动场,可以较好地模拟台风影响下的海浪场,模拟的海浪数据接近海浪浮标观测数据。(2)击水概率场与海浪场的分布特征整体上保持了较好的一致性,高值区主要分布于传统的危险半圆。(3)当飞行器飞行高度为10 m时,大浪区的击水概率在20%以上,高值中心可达35%以上,台风尾迹处的击水概率为15%~20%,其余大部分海域为10%~15%;当飞行高度为15 m时,击水概率较飞行高度为10 m时明显降低,台风大浪区的击水概率为5%~15%,其余大部分海域在5%以内。     

Development and validation of harmonic wave group single-run procedure for RAO with comparison to regular wave and transient wave group procedures using URANS

A harmonic wave group single run seakeeping procedure is developed, validated and compared with regular wave and transient wave group procedures, using an unsteady Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes solver, although all procedures can be also implemented using experiments or potential flow. Incoming waves are generated by linear superposition of potential solution for a number of component waves. The regular wave procedure requires multiple runs, whereas single run procedures obtain the response amplitude operators (RAO) for a range of frequencies at a fixed speed, assuming linear ship response. The transient wave group procedure provides continuous RAO curves, while the harmonic wave group procedure obtains discrete transfer functions without focusing. Results are presented for heave and pitch response amplitudes and phases for the DTMB model 5512 in head waves. Verification and validation studies are performed for the transient wave group procedure. Validation is achieved at the average interval of 9.54 (%D). Comparisons of the procedures show that the harmonic wave group procedure is the most efficient, saving 75.8% on the computational cost compared with the regular wave procedure. Error values from all procedures are similar at 4 (%D). Harmonic wave group results are validated for a wide range of the Froude numbers, with satisfactory results.     

Question of the pitch-roll buoy response to ocean waves as a simple harmonic oscillator?

The assumption that the East and North deck slopes of a pitch–roll buoy respond to East and North sea slopes as simple harmonic oscillators is routinely made by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and others producing directional wave data. Although directional wave data derived with this assumption usually appear to be of good quality, the validity of the assumption has not previously been more directly demonstrated. In this paper, a method is proposed to judge the validity of the assumption for any set of time series records of buoy angular motion. The proposed method is applied to 200 record sets taken by an NDBC buoy located at ocean station 46024, and to five record sets taken by another NDBC buoy at 46051. For the 46024 data, it was demonstrated that the simple harmonic oscillator assumption was near perfectly valid. For the smaller 46051 data set, the simple harmonic oscillator assumption was shown to be slightly less valid.     

Correlation of extreme waves and water levels using a third-generation wave model and a 3D flow model

A procedure to correlate extreme wave heights and extreme water levels in coastal waters using numerical models together with joint probability analysis has been proposed. A third-generation wave model for wave simulation and a three-dimensional flow model for water level simulation are coupled through the surface atmospheric boundary layer. The model has been calibrated and validated against wind, wave and water level data collected in the coastal waters of Hong Kong. The annual maximum wave height and the concomitant water level have been obtained by simulating the annual extreme typhoon event for 50 consecutive years. The results from bivariate extreme value analysis of the simulated data show that the commonly used empirical method may lead to underestimation of the design water level.     

波浪在Jarlan型开孔潜堤上的运动

The wave motion over a submerged Jarlan-type breakwater consisting of a perforated front wall and a solid rear wall was investigated analytically and experimentally. An analytical solution was developed using matched eigenfunction expansions. The analytical solution was confirmed by previously known solutions for single and double submerged solid vertical plates, a multidomain boundary element method solution, and experimental data. The calculated results by the analytical solution showed that compared with double submerged vertical plates, the submerged Jarlan-type perforated breakwater had better wave-absorbing performance and lower wave forces. For engineering designs, the optimum values of the front wall porosity, relative submerged depth of the breakwater, and relative chamber width between front and rear walls were 0.1–0.2, 0.1–0.2, and 0.3–0.4, respectively. Interchanging the perforated front wall and solid rear wall may have no effect on the transmission coefficient. However, the present breakwater with a seaside perforated wall had a lower reflection coefficient.     

Measurements of higher harmonic wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder

Wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder in Stokes waves with the wave slopes ranging from 0.06 to 0.24, are measured in a wave tank. The higher harmonic wave forces are compared with the available values from theories of the FNV (Faltisen–Newman–Vinje) model and Varyani solution. The first harmonic horizontal forces measured are much larger than the theoretical values from the FNV model, while the first harmonic vertical forces are well predicted by the Varyani theory. It was also found that the FNV model significantly overpredicts the second harmonic horizontal forces in high frequency waves, but under predicts the third harmonic forces. The differences between the actual measurement and the theory, in the second and third harmonic horizontal forces, become smaller at low wave frequencies as the wave slope increases. In addition, the transverse instabilities in the incoming waves with high wave slope were observed, which is due to the nonlinear modulation. Measurements were, thus, carried out before the instability occurred.     

内孤立波作用下Spar平台的运动响应

建立了内孤立波作用下Spar平台运动响应的时域数值模型,并利用这一模型计算了内孤立波作用下Spar平台的运动响应。其中根据K-dv方程解出内孤立波的波面及水质点速度表达式,应用Morison公式求出内孤立波对Spar平台的水平作用力;由伯努力方程求解压强,通过在平台底面积分求出内孤立波对Spar平台的垂向作用力;在悬链线理论的基础上,分析锚链对平台的作用力,采用四阶Runge-Kutta方法求解运动方程。数值结果表明,当内孤立波不断接近海洋平台时,Spar平台受到的作用力随之增大,海洋平台会产生远大于表面波作用下的水平位移,从而证实了内孤立波是影响海洋平台稳定的重要因素,在海洋平台的设计和评估中内孤立波的作用是不可忽略的。     

Bed friction and dissipation in a combined current and wave motion

Two simple two-layer eddy viscosity models, which facilitate analytical solutions, are presented in order to describe the velocity field and associated shear stress in a combined current wave motion. The models, which have the same eddy viscosity in the current boundary layer, but different eddy viscosities in the wave boundary layer, cover together the whole rough turbulent regime. Straightforward definitions are made for the wave friction factor and the current friction factor for the combined motion, which are in accordance with the results for pure waves and pure currents. In this way one avoids the fictitious reference velocities and elliptic integrals which e.g. Grant and Madsen (1978, 1979) experienced. The two friction factors turn out to be functions of four dimensionless parameters. A detailed calculation procedure is presented. Comparison with laboratory experiments yields promising results. A new relation connecting dissipation and bed shear stress is also developed.     

Theoretical analysis on the transverse motion of a buoy by surface wave

The theoretical analysis on the transverse motion of a buoy is reported here. The analysis has been done by linear differential equation, and its conclusion shows that the transverse motion occurs when the parameters of surface wave and buoy system are related by Mathieu's instability condition. This analysis can be applied to the pole structure which has the equal flexibility in all directions.     

Nonlinear wave effect on the slow drift motion of a floating body

The slow drift motion of a floating body in a two-dimensional wave field has been investigated using a time-domain, fully nonlinear numerical model with non-reflective open boundaries. Preliminary computations were conducted for incident bichromatic waves, in which wave theories with different orders were applied in generating the waves required. The results show that the use of low-order theories generates undesirable free waves, and that fourth-order terms contribute markedly to low-frequency input. The motion of a rectangular floating body in response to nonlinear bichromatic waves was computed. The numerical results for small-amplitude incident waves agree reasonably well with the second-order approximation for both the steady and difference-frequency (Δσ) components in the body's motion. For relatively large waves, however, the 2Δσ component becomes predominant compared with the Δσ component. The motion of the body in irregular waves with different wave parameters has also been presented in order to discuss the validity range of a second-order approximation.     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。