矩形港池的港内共振研究

在理想地形条件下,应用MIKE 21-BW模块进行了不同入射波周期的矩形港池的港内波高分布计算,数值计算结果表明,港池尺度为入射波半波长的整数倍时,港内将产生驻波共振;港内共振与口门宽度相关.在某一尺度下,口门宽度越小,港池共振越明显;港池口门的位置会对港池共振的模式发生影响,可能导致出现第二类共振频率.     

涌浪作用下港内大型集装箱船运动特性数值研究

随着船舶大型化和港口建设深水化发展,外海不同周期波浪作用下大型系泊船泊稳问题与小型系泊船相比出现了新的特点。为此,利用数值模型方法研究了在不同入射角度和周期的涌浪作用下港内大型系泊船的水动力响应,针对系泊船的泊稳情况探讨了船舶的运动规律和运动特性。研究发现,在涌浪周期较大的情况下,限定波高的泊稳标准不足以用来确定系泊船的正常作业条件,港内泊船的水平运动（纵荡、横荡和艏摇）极易超出运动标准值并影响装卸作业效率,并且船舶的水平运动表现出主要由次重力波主导的低频运动特性,而垂直运动（垂荡、横摇和纵摇）表现出主要由短波主导的波频运动特性。     

大亚湾长周期波在缓变流作用下传播计算模型的研究

以存存缓变背景流的二维缓坡方程为控制方程建立一个计算模型来研究大亚湾长周期波的传播规律.按入射波源形式不同、周期不l司和有无背景潮流设计了几个数学试验,分别通过这儿个试验研究长周期波传播规律.从模拟结果发现,在大哑湾水域,仪在开边界附近不同源形式的入射波对波浪传播的影响有所变化;总的来说,从入射点到湾内波高削弱较快,但是对于不同周期的入射波,模拟所得波高分布变化较大;对于长周期的入射波,背景流也对波浪传播有一定影响.     

港口波况恶化的观测和分析技术

首先分析了港口波况恶化的可能成因,确定观测和分析目标。根据港内波浪中船行波占相当份量的因素和测量作业不能干扰港务活动的要求,讨论了有关港内波浪观测仪器设备、测站布设、观测方法和质量控制的问题。根据波况恶化分析的要求和非平稳波动过程的特点,研究了波浪频谱和特征值的计算、波浪能量的方向分布、不规则波沿海墙的反射和风浪、涌浪及船行波计算的技术。最后作为实例对某港进行了波况恶化的观测和分析。     

太平洋海浪场时空特征分析

为了深入了解太平洋海浪场特别是涌浪场的时空分布特征,利用44 a(1958~2001年)ERA-40海浪再分析资料对南、北太平洋风浪和涌浪的波高和波向进行了统计分析,结果表明:北太平洋海浪场比南太平洋具有更明显的季节变化特征,四季中南太平洋涌浪均有明显的越赤道北传过程.南、北半球西风带海浪波高随时间呈线性增长趋势,且涌浪分别存在2.4~3.7 a 和2.9 a 左右的显著周期,风浪和混合浪波高存在6.5 a 和5.2 a 的共同周期     

规则波作用下簇状沉水植物群消浪特性实验

在理论分析的基础上通过物理模型实验探究了规则波与簇状沉水植物群的相互作用。结果表明,植物群沿程波高衰减规律在多数情况下与Kobayashi指数形式和Dalrymple幂函数形式波高衰减理论模型吻合较好,少数情况下波高衰减集中在植物群后半部分,与上述理论模型并不一致。在植物淹没度等于0.4条件下,植物群沿程波高出现较多壅高现象,且相对壅高值随入射波高的增大而减小;植物群的规则波透射系数变化情况与入射波周期、相对波高、植物淹没度以及植物分布密度等因素相关。当入射波周期等于1.0 s时,透射系数随相对波高的增大而减小,周期大于1.0 s时,透射系数随相对波高的增大出现较强的波动性。本文提出了规则波透射系数与水动力因素及植物因素之间的关系式,得到了近岸簇状沉水植物群消浪特性的基本认识,为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。     

大亚湾风暴潮波浪传播数学模型

本文建立了大亚湾风暴潮涌浪传播数学模型,以任意多边形离散计算海区,每一多边形构成单元,以波浪运动学和动力学守恒方程模拟单元内能量传递,以风暴潮过程模拟边界入射波高过程,用风暴潮涌浪传播基本方程和波能缓坡方程结合模拟湾口巨浪向湾内的传播过程。通过分析大亚湾不同种类岸线反射系数的概率分布,并结合实测波高对模型进行率定,最终确定模型参数。将大亚湾特征点计算波高与统计推荐波高比较进行模型验证,结果显示SE向波高与H_(13%)推荐波高对应较好,可以用于大亚湾海区的波浪预报。计算当大亚湾口分别出现10年一遇、50年一遇及100年一遇的波高时,在E、ESE以及ES向入射波浪条件下大亚湾海域极值波高的分布。分别对风暴潮涌浪在不同类型岸线的爬高以及风暴潮涌浪传播对岸线的作用力进行计算。     

台风“梅花”风浪场和涌浪场特征分析

基于第三代海浪数值模式WAVEWATCHⅢ(v3.14),在WRF模式提供模式风场驱动下,对1109号台风"梅花"的风浪场、涌浪场和混合浪场进行了数值模拟,并在我国东部沿海选取了3个关注站点,探讨涌浪和风浪波高随时间变化与台风中心位置的关系以及台风影响下海浪二维谱、风浪场和涌浪场分布和变化特征。结果表明,新版的海浪模式能较好表现福建和浙江沿海、长江口附近、山东半岛南端的3个关注区域的台风涌浪先于风浪到达的事实;距台风中心不同距离,混合浪波高的组成和波高变化不同;台风的外围区涌浪场的高值区对应着风浪场的低值区,台风的大风区风浪场的高值区对应着涌浪场的低值区,台风眼区则为涌浪区。涌浪多分布在台风风浪影响范围之外,波向由台风中心向外辐射。     

大洋中涌浪对风浪能量的影响

由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。     

北部湾海区有效波高与最大波高的关系及最大设计波高

目前,各种海洋工程规范采用的有效波高H_(1/3)与最大波高H_(max)的关系各不相同,它们采用窄谱条件下的理论关系或经验关系。本文针对北部湾海区的实际波浪状况,利用测波资料计算了谱宽参数的分布规律,然后在宽谱的条件下分析并确定了最大波高H_(max)与有效波高H_(1/3)的关系随谱宽度参量ε与波个数N的变化规律,最后结合北部湾有效波高的长期分布计算出不同重现期约设计波高。     

Performance characteristics of a conceptual ring-shaped spar-type VLFS with double-layered perforated-wall breakwater

A ring-shaped spar-type Very Large Floating Structure (VLFS) is proposed as an intermediate base for supporting deepwater resource exploitation far away from the coast line. The proposed VLFS is composed of eight rigidly connected deep-draft spar-type modules and an inside harbor. A double-layered perforated-wall breakwater is vertically attached to the VLFS and pierces through the water surface to attenuate the wave energy in the inside harbor. The hydrodynamic performance characteristics of the ring-shaped VLFS was experimentally evaluated in the present study, focusing on the motion responses, wave elevations, and wave run-ups. The natural periods of the motions in vertical plane were determined to be larger than 40 s, which is much larger than common wave periods. This enhanced the motion performance in vertical plane and afforded favorable habitation and operation condition on the VLFS. A large surge damping was induced by the vertical breakwater, which tended to significantly affect the surge and pitch motions, but had a negligible effect on the heave motion. The component frequencies of the wave elevations in the inside harbor and the wave run-ups were identical with those of the incident waves. The wave attenuation was frequency-dependent and effective for the common wave frequencies, with a smaller loss coefficient observed in higher sea state. The wave attenuation and wave run-ups tended to improve in the absence of the leeward walls.     

直立堤前波浪和波压力统计特征

基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。     

防浪建筑物影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律,并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中,短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减,低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大,波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变;海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小,低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大,防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的;当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时,低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。     

Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater

A physical model study of combined refraction and diffraction of waves through a breakwater gap at different incident angles was conducted. Both regular and random waves with narrow and broad frequency and direction spreading were studied. Besides the presence of a mild bottom slope in the lee of the breakwater, the distribution of wave heights across the width of a navigation channel inside the model harbor was also simulated. In addition to contributing to an understanding of the phenomenon of refraction and diffraction of random waves, the relatively complete set of data obtained can serve as a benchmark for testing of numerical models.     

不规则波作用下垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数试验研究

垂直挡板式透空堤作为一种新型的透空式防波堤结构,通过将挡浪板垂直设置于波能最集中的水体表层来消减波浪,透浪系数是其最关键的指标。通过物理模型试验,分析不规则波作用下入射波高、波周期、挡板相对入水深度、相对堤宽、相对挡板超高、相对面板超高等因素对垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的影响规律,并在Wiegel公式的基础上拟合了垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的计算公式。可作为今后类似透空式防波堤结构透浪系数的近似估算,具有一定的参考价值。     

Boundary element modeling of multidirectional random waves in a harbor with partially reflecting boundaries

A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Scattering of obliquely incident water waves by partially reflecting non-transmitting breakwaters

In the present paper, analytic solutions are derived for scattering of water waves obliquely incident to a partially reflecting semi-infinite breakwater or breakwater gap. In order to examine the correctness of the derived solutions, they are compared with the solutions derived by McIver (1999) and Bowen and McIver (2002) for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap, respectively, in the case of perfect reflection. The derived analytic solutions are used to investigate the effect of reflection coefficient of the breakwater and wave incident angle upon the tranquility at harbor entrance. The tranquility is deteriorated by the reflected waves as the reflection coefficient increases and as waves are incident more obliquely.     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

Water surface resonance in the L-shaped channel of seawater exchange breakwater

The resonance period of the L-shaped channel in the caisson is predicted analytically for the seawater exchange breakwater of “Applicability Study of the Seawater Exchange Breakwater (1). Korea Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries (in Korean) (1999a)”. Hydraulic experiments are conducted for a composite breakwater with a rear reservoir that is one of the seawater exchange breakwaters developed by them. For regular waves, the water surface elevation in the channel and the flow rate through the breakwater are measured. For irregular waves, the flow rate through the breakwater and the reflection coefficient on the breakwater are measured. The resonant maximum values in both the surface elevation and the flow rate, and the resonant minimum values in the reflection coefficient are all at wave periods slightly longer than analytically predicted ones. The measured resonance period for irregular waves is closer to the predicted one than for regular waves. If the resonance period of the L-shaped channel is fitted to the dominant period of incident waves, there would be high efficiency of seawater exchange between inside and outside the harbor.